Wild-Animal

If it is the fuel pipe that connects to the accumulator, then you may have issues getting it off the accumulator. Hope fully you do

Yeah by the time you send of the form and they process it, you are looking at loosing a month. A friend of mine returned his and he got less than he thought, so he inquired about it and found out your refund is dependant on when they process it.

If you have an uprated wiring loom then i would have a look at the relays, the relays hate moisture so if they can get wet where they are then I would replace them to see if that solves the issue. If in doubt you can take the plastic casing of them and check for water damage.

If you take it to someone, it helps a lot if they know the fueling system, I had my fueling adjusted Co at my last M.O.T and I thought it was set up properly. The car was running terrible pinking all other the place I changed the dizzy, I was checking everything. Then i gave in took to a very good garage, the Co setting was miles off. As you have changed the dizzy I would get a timing light and set the dizzy up properly, if the Co has never been changed then their shouldn't be anything to worry about. But if you want a garage to set your ignition timing, then you could get them to do your Co as well. ---------- Post added at 8:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:44 PM ---------- As for your cambelt, I suppose it depends how confident you are feeling, it could be worth getting a price from somewhere to get it done first.

It could just be your started motor, you could send 12 volts with jumps leads of the battery straight to the starter motor and that would rule it out.

Going by memory, the needles are keyed. I cant think of anything that you could do to change where the needle sits

Brake dust shields are sold at the dealers, as for the plastic trim you would be best trying the car breaking section

If its running lean, then that's your reason for your engine being hard to start, as the engine will run a richer mix until it has gotten up to running temperature

You can get the scraper seals from the dealer, just be sitting down when they tell you the price

if its rusting at where the rear arches meets the sills then I would say thats fairly common, their is a lip that collects all of the rubbish from the wheel arch.

Are you sure its not a wishbone bushing ?

Welcome to the world of mountain biking : )

I blasted my sub frame myself at work, we have a heavy duty grit blaster so it is a lot courser than sand blasting and it took ages, so I do wonder how long these places spend on things like rusty sub frames with a sand blaster as it would take them so long to do properly. If there is a good amount of rust on it then the sand blaster will struggle. It could be worth taking your bits and pieces to a place that has a proper grit blaster, then get them powder coated. That way you would see the results before taking it them to the powder coater.

I know for the bio diesel it goes off after a period of time. Farmers were having a bit of a time when their go to their combine after a year and all of the fuel has congealed in the filters and the lines. I believe red diesel has very little bio ness in it for that reason.

Have you checked ignition timing ? if you changed the dizzy cap did youm ake sure it was timied up properly, i. e using a timing light

So it couldnt be the hall sensor?

If you can, go on a welding course to be shown the ropes, its a lot easier to be shown how to start off. Often the hardest parts is setting the welder up correctly not the actual welding. Definitely go for a MIG welder and use gas, the gas is cheap enough and you will get far better results. I have had many years of experience of welding, cars are bit of pain so plenty of practice will help. You will also want to buy an electronic welding helmet, especially if your welding bits on cars far easier to work with. Basically means you can see through the mask when you are not welding

Hey do you happen to have the central locking pump and is it still in working condition?

They are noise, but they are considerable noisier if their is a leak, as the sytem is not pressurised then. So if there are not any leaks then dont worry about it.

Make sure the small vacumn pipe is connected to the back of the clocks, you can check to see if its connected by taking the lower dash piece out and having a look onto the back of the clocks., it connects onto where the side of the rev counter

Have you tried TPS?

Also make sure you get new washers for the fule pipe ends, if your changing the fuel filter at the same time, then again make sure you get the correct fuel washers for its connections. I just had a look on euro car parts and could not find an accumulator it could be worth phoning them up and asking as I got a genuine Bosch item from them and it was a lot less than the dealers.

hey the fuel pipes should still be availible from the dealers, I have the KR and got an accumulator from eurocarparts

There should be fuses next to the relays for your uprated headlight loom, check them if they look misty then they have moisture damage. I would say it would be the uprated healight loom causing propblems due to the countless times I have had hassle of from mine due to moisture.

I went to halfords and got the correct belt, there were two variation in sizes luckily I managed to guesstimate the right one. If you can take the belt in with you and you will be able to check yourself, plus they were not expensive either.