fendervg

Another nice touch was that the two trim pieces on the rear door card that the seat belts run through have a notch cut out so you can remove them without dismantling the seatbelt.

That’s the crankcase PCV valve - a common culprit for running issues and vacuum leaks . It’s not strictly needed and can be safely deleted and a catch cam fitted - I’ve never found these solutions to be satisfactory but many ha e done it successfully. The Ford part will be fine - the 2.9 was fitted to the Galaxy. You will also come across a few on fleabay.

The Bremen is lovely, but very expensive at the moment - I have a VW Gamma IV with green illumination and it's 4x20w, great FM reception, has an anti-theft LED, cassette for retro stealth, and you can hook up a CD changer or an aux input box at the back - I run an old iPod mini from the glove box. Also has GALA (speed sensitive volume control) and telephone mute. Previously had a really OEM looking Nakamichi CD-35z (second picture), but that got stolen pretty quickly when I forgot to bring the face inside one evening! It didn't have dimmable lights though or telepone mute, although the 40/45z and more recent Naks have those.

I have a pair of JBL GTO507c for the door cards - there's a picture of one installed a few posts back in this thread. They are from a set I bought to retrofit to a Mk2 GTI years ago, but never did. The door card speakers were not really that badly damaged and still working ok, but I thought they could do with an upgrade anyway. The rear cones had completely separated from the surround - flapping, so to speak! I have some tweeters for the dash, but the ones in there sound fine for now so they'll be last on the list. I've only tested the rears and one side so far, but they sound much better - hopefully should be a nice improvement when driving - I'm not really into ICE, subs and amp builds to be honest, but I hate crackling and popping an the twang of blown speakers.

Thanks. It probably took me a couple of hours each side, including removal, disassembly, cutting with a dremel, a bit of sanding and then a good cleaning and a little bit of repair work to the trim and felt - very happy with the result. Once back in the car, they look completely as before, but the sound is way better. The little speaker connector adapters are a god-send as they just slide on the speaker terminals and you can hook up the original wiring.

The gauge pods are highly sought after and can change hands for a lot of money -- especially RHD drive versions, as the centre console is angled, so there are two types. I have a set I bought new for about 120 euro, but that was a long time ago - recently they seem to be changing hands for 250-500 euro, and are very hard to find. The US spec SLC had them as standard, but they were a rare option in Europe and the UK - shame really as all Corrados should have had them as standard IMHO.

Good thinking - yeah, could be a possibility, or a special order import.

Imported from the US? It has US spec seatbelts, warning light etc.? It is RHD in Japan- we get lots of Jap imports here in Ireland because of that.

Apologies - didn't happen to me - must be your lucky day! What browser were you using - I was using Firefox with the NoScript extension. I've edited the link in the original post so it's not a hyperlink anymore, so visit with caution - Geocities has been abandoned for a long time now. Maybe you can edit your post to delete the link in the quote as well. Would it be better to delete entirely? Just thought it was a helpful site as it gives the whole procedure.

Ha ha - I can understand that - and they are first gen bags too, so more likely to take your head off than save you, even if they happen to go off as intended. Probably easy enough to convert it, unless you are required by law to have them as the car had them when manufactured.

Yep, ours is just an ABS light, nothing else. I think "Check engine" was a North American market regulations requirement. Airbags came in in 1995, but very rare if even non-existent on UK cars - more common in Germany and Scandinavia. The steering wheel you have is specific to the airbag models.

Looks good. More or less standard except you have a 3 warning light ABS light - maybe you have an airbag and an engine check light. Also looks like you might have aircon, but hard to tell from the photo.

B5 and Mk4 are too late - I think they switched to a different design or manufacturer. This wasn't the site I was looking for, but has some pretty good info - although some photos are missing - if you go up one level there is also a good how-to on headliner removal. h**p://www.geocities.ws/corradomoonroof/a3.html

There's nothing like a good ETKA pilot - you need the professionals, and you'll be in safe hands!

There's a web site or forum posting somewhere in the US where a guy compares three different sun roof mechanisms (Corrado, Passat and Golf) and breaks out the similarities and quirks on each one and shows how to combine parts from different mechs to make a working one - I'll see if I can find it in my history. The mechanisms are all more or less the same and work on the same operating principle - the differences are to do with the wind deflector at the front, and the sliding/lifting mech for the interior trim - the glass roofs don't lift this, it just slides back by hand. Sun rooves are just a PITA - I've never come across a 10+ year old car where they work properly because basically no-one ever does any maintenance and cleaning/lubrication on them.

These are the finished parcel shelf supports, with part of the speaker housing cut away to allow for the larger magnet: And with speaker in situ: One thing I noticed while working on these parcel shelf supports is how well made and put together they are compared to the Mk2 items (I've had both the standard plastic ones and the ones with carpet lining) - the shelf hooks are metal rather than the plastic that always breaks, there are four mounting points, there's lots of felt to reduce vibrations all over the place, the covering is well glued on and the speaker units themselves can be removed without taking out the whole shebang. So I guess is this one of those times where you can see that the Corrado was really built to a "premium" spec and the extra care the workers at Karmann put into it.

Makes sense. Thanks for sharing that info. If you think about it, manufacturers like Seiko make watched just for the Japanese market, the same for high end cameras. And having been to Tokyo a couple of times, they are very particular about their cars and product exclusivity.

One side shouldn’t lift when sliding closed - it means the cable end is not seated on the rails properly or one of the other catches is out of alignment. On a side note, all of these slide and tilt roofs, whether mk3, b3/b4, seat etc have more or less the same design made by Rockwell and will all break eventually in the same way if not looked after (usually a snapped left cable guide). It’s just that there are a lot more of the other types around than there are Corrados, and they might be slighter younger - but regular use and special VW lube are your best bet. Or don’t use it at all.

Same here - standard Halfords hook and threaded bar type - probably made by Laser. Worked fine on a Mk2 Golf which has the same front layout. Always just used two. You can cheat and compress just part of the spring to get the strut off - use a couple of small c-clamps like a carpenter uses for safety by looping them over the coils to stop them springing back.

Handle went on fine, so far so good. Was working on some rear speaker replacements yesterday - this is why things didn’t sound too good before: Had some JBL 6x4 I had bought for my old Golf Mk2 that I decided to use - they fit easily with a little modification to the screw holes and spacer. The parcel shelf supports will need to be modified slightly to fit the larger magnet - that’s today’s job. Incidentally, you can remove just the speakers and grille from above by removing two small Phillips screws at the side of the shelf. The VW speaker cable adapters were sourced on eBay - no need to mess with the original wiring.

That could be it - it’s so dirty there that it’s hard to tell. I’d say debadge it. More in keeping with the mods.

Ha ha. Fair enough - sounds like you might need a different badge entirely. To be honest, I’ve never seen a cover that says 2.9, although the engine was fitted to a few quite rare variations - the red paint though does not look standard - maybe an early distributor car?

Not sure - but think your are looking at #11 on this diagram: http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/COR/year/1993/drive_standart/76/hg_ug/133/subcategory/37025/part_id/3691392/lang/e#sec_11 That sites lets you view the cats for different regions as well. ......BUT, actually I'm wrong, as that part appears to be just for the seal around the oil filler cap hole.

Leave it as 2.8 and it will be a sleeper! [emoji41]

The blue/white (might be grey) wire is for GALA (speed dependent volume control) -- it is splices into the spoiler control module feed and comes from the gearbox speed sensor. If it's left bare and earths accidentally it can cause problems with the spoiler. The VW Gamma 4 and a few others had this functionality, it's actually very hande - to set, pull out the tone knob to second position and to off, then set the volume at standstill to what you want, then drive at a steady 60 and adjust until the volume is right - after that it adjusts automagically! The aerial amp wire is solid blue.