fendervg

Looks like I found it - #13 on here, looks like it clips on to the handle mounting cut-out in the door...

Does anyone know how these little clips from the door handle go back on? A picture or link to diagram would be helpful. Have decided to fix up my car one bit at a time - doing a small job or part of one every day - it's no longer taxed at the moment anyway as the road tax here in Ireland is so prohibitive. First off will be rebuilding the driver's side door: - fit new door speaker - Fix up door card, clean and glue - repair door handle and refit - replace upper trim strip - glue sliding bracket to glass - fit door membrane and seal and we'll take it from there.

Good stuff. It will make figuring everything out a lot easier with that lot gone!

For the bonnet open sensor, that's usually just a spring loaded popper that earths itself when the bonnet is up - done with a ring terminal on the end of the wire.Mine looks original and is part of the lock latch plate - looks very similar to the switches on the door for the interior light. As said - should be relatively easy, there are usually only cuts in two places, and a couple of splices. If it's an original VAG system it might be more tightly integrated into the looms, but as it was a rare option I think this is unlikely. Very few cars of that era came with factory fitted alarms/immobilisers. If you have the time (should be plenty now!) and take it easy, just trace each wire back and you should be able to work out where they go to and what has been disturbed. If you look at an alarm install diagram, you can see that each wire has a dedicated function for a single component, problem is they are usually all the same colour to deter would be hot-wirers - and there might be some dummy ones as well.

Just follow all the wires one by one - most of them will be sensors, then the LEDs and to the siren. If it's just alarm, that would be it, unless it also has central locking on the fob. If it's also an immobiliser it will cut the power to the fuel pump relay and possibly also the starter/ignition live. These will have been cut, and each end connected to wires from the alarm box, so that a relay inside the unit can turn the circuits on when the alarm is disarmed. These cut wires will be fairly obvious, but it should be possible to bypass by simply reconnecting one or two wires. If it is the built in ECU immobiliser that came with late VRs, that might be a different story to remove, and others on here would be in a better position to help as I don't have any experience with them.

That what I did on my old Golf Mk2 - that's all the design of the circuit really does, so for a basic one you just need the door contact, lights on and earth - the fancier ones also have ignition, so that it only comes on when the ignition is off or key out.

Wouldn't be the same without you and the quality parts you supply, Daves16v! You should probably get an honorary membership. I'll be in touch re a short shifter once I've got hold of a spare unit I can send over to you in exchange.

The relay is just a standard Mk3 lights on warning buzzer relay - you can use the Mk3 wiring diagram to splice in to the light circuits where needed - there is already an empty slot on the relay panel for it to sit.

Yeah, I've only ever heard positive feedback about them, so definitely on my list - especially compared to some of the other short shift options out there. You can reduce side to side throw with a billet replacement of the gear cable bracket on the gear box, but I find on my car that I don't really have a problem with side to side throw, more front to back - which is very long.

You'll need a dremel to remove your old one to send to Dave, as the pin won;t go past the lip of the opening. One of his short shifts is on my list too, but I just want to rebuild the standard one first to see what it feels like - then I'm waiting to get hold of a spare mech to send to Dave so I won't be without a car during the turnaround. His work is highly spoken of and I've used his lock repair set before with great success.

Very handy - I have all the bushings for both the gearbox and the cabin side, so this will be on my list of "Corrado things to do during lock down!"

Yeah, the Recaro seat loom looked nice and would be a must have if you manage to get a set of seats without the wiring. The stuff is a bit expensive, but looks good quality with OE parts, so I wouldn't mind paying a little extra.

You can do this by just getting the relay from a Mk3 or latter and wiring it up - it needs to see a signal from the driver's door switch, earth, illumination/sidelights - maybe one more, can't remember, possibly battery live - I did a long tie ago and sat it in the empty slot on the relay panel and spliced into a couple of wires to get it working, with pins into the back of the fuse block. It's a handy little mod all right. On my old Mk2 I just used a standard electronics speaker instead of a relay and wired it up accordingly. It just needs to be able to tell if the ligths are on and door open with ignition off and then open the circuit to sound the buzzer. The empty slot is there in the relay panel, but it is not wired up. It was always strange that the Corrado had CE2 but didn't have the buzzer. That kit looks nice, pretty much plug and play - you will need a pin release tool to fit it.

They look very similar - would need to see the numbers off them to be sure. I know a few people used 16" Subaru wheels and got them repainted. They look great though!

Nice find - look the part, but you'd need to compare the part# - as for the caps, there are plenty of places that have for sale, or will make up caps in any size you want. I'd kind of agree about the white powdercoat potentially hiding a multitude of sins, and the first place these would be going if they were mine would be to the wheel shed to be blasted and dipped.

Ha ha - that's bad if it's getting into your dreams - I think I just have nightmares about it breaking down regularly in spectacular modes of failure and having to be towed, with all my neighbours looking disaprovingly out of their windows in the middle of the night yet again as it's brought home by the recovery truck! Interestingly though, the Mk2 used to have after market pop-out windows available, made by Happich - not so easy on a Corrado with the reat quarters being bonded in though.

There's a rail that is welded to the uprights near the bottom of the window - the rollers slide along it and are attached to the ends of the two arms attached to the window mech. The rear bracket slides up and down on the upright nearest the lock mechanism and should be attached to the window glass.

They just pop off with a little bit of force - if they are really worn they'll nearly fall off. Then the new one just pops on - a bit of lube on the roller and the channel will help. They may not totally fix your rattle though - check that the sliding guide on the rear rail is still glued to the glass, as that is often a a major contributor if the glass has been replaced at any stage.

Great work - this will be really useful to know for anyone having problems or looking to replace a faulty switch. If you could post a picture of each switch with the part# beside it at the end it would be really helpful. The only thing I can add as that I've repaired two at different times, one needed some of the solder on the PCB reflowing, and the other was a blown bulb which we replaced with an LED and an inline resistor - that was a little bright, so a plastic cap on the bulb helped to dim it a little..

Is the 535 919 235 AA version any easier to come by though? Guessing by the 535 prefix it's also a Corrado specific part.

It's gone back to VDO - rang the shop for an update on Saturday, but nothing yet. I've refitted the old Pierburg one for now, but haven't used it in anger yet, just test fired the car a couple of times to make sure she starts and idles. I'll give them another call in the morning to see.

I think he means the round hose clips. If so, any good quality 8mm fuel hose clip from a motor factors will work - the original clips can still be got from VW, but certain types of them are not re-useable and others need a special tool to fit and undo.

Looks like you've had to hand over a nice bit of cash to Heritage/Classics and various eBay sellers! Just keep your fingers crossed that you don't have a tip or rear end after fitting this lot - would break my heart. TBH, having had the bumpers off several times, most of it tends to be in quite good condition unless bits are missing or heavy corrosion sets in. The 70mm splitter is the best compromise in terms of looks vs usability, so a good choice. I don't know what the molding is like now, but when I bought mine I had to widen and tidy up some of the mounting holes to get a good fit, so worth checking this.

Well at least it should be really solid and go like a rocket after that - what is the financial damage estimate for all that likely to be? I need to start looking at chains and clutch myself, and a bit afraid to look too much into the engine condition - I've got 105k on mine, what mileage is on yours? I've no smoke under acceleration or idle - just a bit of white when starting up until warm.

From memory, the VR6 distributor will only fit in one positions, so it's easy to remove and replace - I've certainly had mine off a few times and never needed to do marking or positioning. It might be different on the 1.8/2.0 cars.