Roger Chatfield

Hi, do you happen to have any ABS modules in stock?? my car is a 95 VR6 but I assume the ABS modules are the same across the range. Rog.

Bumpity bump, anyone.... Please... Rog.

I was cruising back from Rob's today at 80mph, engine revs about 3.5k and I noticed that the oil temp crept up to 124, it was around 118-120 for most of the journey. Is that normal for a VR6 or is it a bit high?? My car has an oil mocal oil cooler so I thought it should be a little less. BTW water temp was 90. Rog.

Afternoon chaps, Ok, long story short, I went and gave Rob a hand today to try and get to the bottom of his non starting issues, anyway we was going to try and get some VAGCOM codes out of it but his is an early spec and Sean's VAGCOM only has the ODB2 style plug so that was a no go. However we did do a few electrical checks and found that when we measured the secondary coil of the coil we got a reading of 7200 ohms, the Bentley manual states that it should be between 3000 and 4000 ohms. No, we realise that the Bentley is actually for the AAA engine so the results for that engine may be different but was wondering if this could be the cause of Rob's intermittent starting issue. Now for the help needed bit. Could someone with access to an early spec VR6 please measure their secondary coil for us so we can use it as a comparison. You need to connect your meter to terminals 4 and 15 of the coil and have it set to ohms. Many thanks in advance. Rog. (and Rob)

Out of interest what is Seafoam? Rog.

Nice car, love the colour, out of interest was the moon roof an optional extra or has it come from a different VW model. And that Mk1 mmmm very nice. Rog.

For an earth use either any exposed bear metal (as the car chassis is earthed) or the negative terminal of the battery. I may able to pop up tomorrow for an hour mate, just need to check with the boss. PM me your number. Rog.

The only settings you want to use when fault finding are the VDC (volts DC) and the Ohms settings. Use the ohms setting when testing dead circuits, ie when you are checking that is not a break in a cable or something, basically you connect the meter to both ends on the cable and you should get a reading close to zero ohms. When testing live circuits use the VDC setting set to something like 20 volts or higher as you are checking 12v circuits. Connect the black cable to a good earth and then use the red cable/probe to test for voltage, you should see about 10-12 volts, normally a bit higher if the engine is running. Off topic slightly, I've been having a little think about your car. Basically I've borrowed Sean's VAGCOM and did a scan of my storm, amongst the various fault codes was one for the immobiliser which I assume is related to the non start problem I had a few weeks ago, I wonder if it's worth me popping up and doing a scan of yours mate, see what faults pop up. Rog.

Thanks for the top tips fellas, I'll let you know how I get on. Rog.

Evening chums, As a few of you know I have been having a few problems with my abs, it looks like one of the internal valve on the abs module has stopped working however the problem goes away when the engine bay warms up, so as a last effort before committing myself to another module I'm going to replace the brake fluid. So, I'm going to use a pressure bleeder but was wondering what the bleed routine was? I was planning on just removing each wheel in turn and bleeding the caliper until it runs clear, is there a set order that I need to follow? also are there any bleed nipples on the abs module that I need to do? Many thanks, Rog.

I'm sure he mentioned to me, that fault has cleared so I think I can assume it was from when Andy had problems. Rog.

Little update, Sean has kindly lent me his VAGCOM, here is the ABS code. So, what's my next move?? I take it the supply valve is internal to the abs unit, is it possible to repair? should I try a fluid change first? Forgot to say, the supply voltage problem has cleared, it's just the valve code that remains. Many thanks Rog.

Afternoon chaps, Sean has kindly lent me his VAGCOM, so this morning I did a quick auto scan and got the following results. Now I guess the engine code is an old one as I've cleared it and it wont reappear, the same with the immobiliser code, Im guessing that may have been the reason behind my no start a few weeks ago. The ABS code cleared but when I did a restart it reappeared so I presume that's the reason my light is on. Can anyone explain the codes to me in plain English, for example I haven't a clue what a hall sensor is. Also, is there any reason why VAGCOM says that my engine is 2.8?? Many thanks Rog.

Looking good Andy, although I think those would look far better on a mystic blue storm... ;) Rog.

Out of interest mate whereabouts in country are you?? If you are near Plymouth I'll happily change your oil for you. Rog.

I'm hoping it's just the sump seal but was just asking incase it's more serious. Rog.

Evening chaps, Out of interest how difficult is it to replace the crank seal?? I realise the gearbox needs to come off but is it then just a case of digging the old seal out and replace or is there more to it? Rog.

Won't the return just show zero as it's open ended at the tank. Rog.

As you know mate I had a few starting problems recently, I'd be very surprised if all 6 injectors have failed, can you here the fuel pump running? Let me know if you want a hand mate. Rog.

Wide open throttle... What are the symptoms?? Is it turning over really quick? I can't it being a compression problem unless something drastic has happened like the chain has broke. Rog.

TBH mate I'm fairly certain it's the sump gasket but am a little concerned about it being on that end, I'm thinking possible crank or cams seals, is it common for those to go? Looks like I'll be bookmarking VWS as a favorite...lol Rog.

Just jacked it up using the subframe like Sean mentioned, all good but whilst under the car I did noticed that the front subframe (the one the front engine mount is bolted to)looks pretty sturdy, anyone use this for jacking?? Rog.

Had a little look under the storm today and it looks like I have an oil leak. I think it's from the sump although it's at the chain end so a little worrying... Anyway, as I'm doing an oil change soon I thought I might as well change the sump gasket while he engine is empty. Where is the best place to buy one??? I'm in no massive hurry so ordering one on-line is an option. Many thanks Rog.

Bit the bullet and got 10 lts of Quantum Silver 10w40 from VW, £25 for 5 ltrs but gave me 10% discount for being a club member. Quite an experience buying parts from VW, Murrey's parts department is in the main show room and is very posh, I was directed to a seat and offered a free coffee while I ordered my parts, very upmarket... the Honda parts department is in the basement and you have to wipe your feet on the way out...lol... although while waiting for my oil to be freshly milked from the German oil cow I did overhear one of the service advisers speaking to a customer on the phone...'yeah, your front pads are 90% worn, that's £272 fitted plus the VAT sir' facking hell, a least Dick Turpin wore a mask...lol Rog.

Going to do an oil service tomorrow on the storm, I've got a Halfords trade card so get a bit of discount on oil. So what are folks opinions on Castrol Magnatec?? Rog.