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Roger Chatfield

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Everything posted by Roger Chatfield

  1. Hey Gareth, nice to meet you mate, sorry I shot off without saying goodbye but the wife had an emergency I needed to get home to (friend locked out og her car ha ha) car was looking stunning, I'm not normally a liker of red cars but it really works on yours, also the turbo install is awesome, you'll have to take me out in it one day. All in all, a good day, only 4 Corrado's though. Rog.
  2. Yes mate, I'm more than happy to pick it up. PM me your number and I'll give you a ring and see what's what. Rog.
  3. Jim, if you want a hand with it mate I'm more than happy to offer my time. Rog.
  4. Top day out but only 4 Corrado's Nice to meet Gareth and his stunning red VRT.. A few pics of today, sorry but it's only Raddo's and one random oak green mk2. A good turn out. My Storm and Gareth's lovely VRT Dragon green late spec 16v Custom green early spec 16v Random oak green mk2 16v A few pics of the beach Rog.
  5. I'm only getting 17 atm but it's only to work and back, it's not even getting hot so I guess thats the reason why. Rog.
  6. I like that as well, Kia are one to watch, some nice cars rolling off their assembly lines at the moment. Rog.
  7. Might drag the Storm out if its not raining. Rog.
  8. That was my original plan but once I got the cover off I realised it wasn't possible, the tracks go via surface mount components and an i/c so the front panel was the only option. Rog.
  9. I've got a really nice DAB radio in my Corrado, I've changed the display colours so it looks OE and am really pleased with it but one thing really winds me up with it. The USB connection for my ipod is on the front, I hate the untidy cable coming out the front. So what I plan to do is have an additional USB socket out the back so I can have my ipod permanently connected. First job, remove the stereo and dismantle. Then locate the rear of the USB connection, it's on the printed circuit that forms the removable front control panel. Next job is to drill a hole in the rear cover of the control panel to allow the extension cable to pass through, I also drilled a hole in front cover of the main unit. I've used a USB extension cable that I got from ebay, I've cut the plug end off (leaving the socket end on) and passed it through the main unit and then through the two covers that I've drilled holes in. I then soldered the cable to the rear of the USB connector. The stereo was then rebuilt and fitted, the 'new rear' USB connection is passed through a hole that i drilled in the passenger side storage shelf. Ipod is connected and now lives permanently on the shelf, I did think about putting it in the glove box but went for the shelf as passengers can use it or connect their USB based players without having to have the glovebox open, however after some thought I may move it to the ashtray. And.... taaa daaaa, ipod connection with no messy cables... I must say I'm rather chuffed with myself.. :) Rog.
  10. It's god's way of telling you to buy another Raddo....lol
  11. Sorry for my ignorance but what are DDI clocks? Rog.
  12. You can get rads recored for a good price. I had a Honda CRX rad (slightly bigger than a VR rad) recored a few years back for less than £100 pound. Rog.
  13. Sean I feel your pain, Mrs C fill our diesel X trail with petrol and about a year later did the same with our diesel Scenic.... She drove the scenic to Truro and back (about 100 miles) and complained that it was 'missing' I didn't even bother check anything else, went straight for the fuel filler... Yep petrol, luckily it was a 50/50 mix so we got away with it. Could be worse, about 10 years ago my mate was at sea and his mrs phoned me up and asked me to look at her car, it would not turn over, checked a few things and thought it was the started motor, at this point she tells me it hasn't worked since she topped up the screen wash, and then points to the oil filler cap.... Yep filled to the very top with water....lol... I drained it out, filled it with new oil and turned it over with the plugs out, plugs back in and it ran fine... Lucky escape. Rog.
  14. I've got a Blue Point gun I got for a tenner from a bloke on the CRX forum, awesome bit of kit however I've just managed to rescue a Dewalt battery impact gun from the bin at work... maybe not as powerful as the air gun but way more versatile. In fact in work most of our impact guns are now battery, the new 18 volt stuff is awesome, I'd spend my money of one of those. BTW are there no air tools in the car club these days, was loads when I was there (16 odd years ago...lol) Rog.
  15. Thanks for the replies fella's. With your help I have been able find the source of the culprit. How the hell it managed to get into the induction pipe I'll never know, I have had the meter head off once about a month ago when I test fitted my BMC so maybe it flicked off into the pipe then.. god only knows. It was covered in oil from the crankcase breather so I guess it's been there awhile.. All I can say is I've been bloody lucky. Rog.
  16. As above, look repairable to me, I'm sure a decent bodyshop could pull that dent out. Rog.
  17. So I was warming my engine up after fitting my replacement oil cooler, I was 'blipping' the throttle with my hand in the engine bay when all of a sudden it jammed open and the engine started bouncing off the limiter... I quickly switched off and unjammed the throttle, not sure what jammed it open. Started up again and straight away it started revving so switched off straight away, TBH I thought the throttle plate spindle may have broken however once I removed the intake pipe I found this: It's a bit of plastic that has jammed the throttle open, I was so lucky that it hasn't been sucked into the engine. Here are some pics of it. I haven't a clue where it has come from, there is nothing in the induction pipe or flow sensor housing and it couldn't have come from the airbox as there is a grill on the air flow sensor housing that stops anything entering the induction pipe. Anyone have any idea's. Rog.
  18. Daily storm here, just clicked over 138000, no sign of any smoke and at the last MOT the emissions where really low so I think the engine is good and healthy... fingers crossed. Rog.
  19. Mate of mine had a clear out and found these pics. 1992, that's me on the left, my mate Martin in the middle and my mate Bryn on the right. Mk2 Scirocco, Fiat X1/9 and Mk3 Capri... How cool is that.... :D Rog.
  20. Little update. Fittings arrived today and whilst the threaded end fitted fine it appears the push on end is too big. Old on left new on right Bugger bugger bugger....there is no way this is going to fit my existing pipe..... what to do. So out comes the old measuring stick. Old fitting is 15.39mm across the barbs. New fitting is 15.31mm across the shank Now I know the old fitting fits in the pipe so my theory is if I remove the barbs I may be able to get the new fitting to....er... fit...lol. A little tickle with Gary the grinder and this is the result. A squirt of dub 40 and plenty on sweat, tears and swearing later. Taaaaa Daaaaa.... It fits, it's bloody tight and I don't think it'll come off but I put a jubilee clip on for piece of mind. And, the finally result. All tested up to working temp and no leaks so far. Rog.
  21. Another daily here although mine lives in the garage overnight and I regularly put the dehumidifier in it. I'm fairly convinced mine is watertight but I still get steamed up windows, I think it's just down to the rubbish weather we are getting at the moment, even though the car is watertight you still end up getting moisture in it from just using it, opening doors etc and from your clothes hence why I try and dehumid mine every couple of weeks. Has anyone thought about using something like rainex anti mist?? Rog.
  22. I did think that but it also get pretty hot in the engine bay so I'm hoping the relays will cope, also the rear of the lights are made from plastic and show no signs of heat damage so I'm thinking that while the lights do get hot I don't think they get 'that' hot. Rog.
  23. As everybody knows the headlights on the Rado are very poor and normal solution is to use a upgraded loom with relays so the power is coming directly from the battery. So, I've decided to build my own loom using 4 relays (one for each circuit) but I'm a little concerned about having the relays exposed to the elements in the engine bay..... however whilst having a poke around the actual light units I've noticed that there is a fair bit of room behind the main beam. And the two relays are not that big. And fit quite is the space. My plan is to fit the relays in the light unit and just have two wires coming out of a small hole drilled in the unit for 12v (direct from battery via a fuse) and earth. This way I can keep the relays nice and dry and also reduce the amount of additional wiring under the bonnet. What do the 'collective' think... genius idea or 'keep taking the tablets Rog' Rog.
  24. I like the tape option, simply and reversible if you ever wanted to back to super OE spec. Rog.
  25. Does the shorter one just screw into the original base. My aerial has a crack in it so I could do with a new one, I'm liking the look of the shorter one. Rog.
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