aide

Nope, vrs have greater rotating mass so can idle lower, saves fuel too :)

I must have missed it, can you describe exactly what's involved then?

The Bentley does not say how to pretension only that you should. It does say as noted above, insert right side then lever in left side, there's really no need to get over complicated or concerned!

if you haven't moved the beam brackets, then you'll find you have to lever the trailing arm into the brackets, that's what i had to do and thats what I understand as 'pretensioning' the beam.

pm an email addy, i can't upload this scan for some reason.

i have my book here but can't find the hunting symptom, i'll scan the whole chapter! that book looks like its the equivalent alright. that screw adjusts airflow by adjusting the throttle butterfly plates, i doubt it will solve a hunting issue.

last year you were posting pics of some girls tittys and talking about spliff filled ashtrays. this year you're reading the daily mirror in your lunch break and have become an unreasoning mackem revolutionary. can we have the old sunderland back please?

Nah mate, everyone except you IS happy/ content! Yeh we'd all like things improved but it doesn't get to us that much that we'll start a revolution over it :)

revolution requires mass dissatisfaction and then a spark to instigate and unify the protest, this is the case with the arab spring and to a lesser extent greece. in the UK we've got life very good in comparrison, after all we're not being picked off an totalitarian regime, and its only a small proportion of the population who are on the breadline - as of now that is... UK circumstances may change for the worse, i think they're likely too, particularly if that man-boy milliband and balls achieve power - but we'll just have to agree to disagree on that one! if nothing else they're interesting times we live in. ---------- Post added at 5:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:57 PM ---------- society is for everyones benefit but it doesn't make it equal and it never will do. changing party or policy isn't going to change that.

kjet based systems are nearly impossible to diagnose remotely, but if its only hunting when warm that at least narrows the search. there's a great book available called 'how to diagnose and modify bosch fuel injection systems' its well worth a purchase, i'll see if i can find my copy tonight and look up the symptoms.

from hazy memory i dont think so, idle is controlled by the potentiometer/ ecu and ISV.

thanks for comments, its a bit of a slowburner build! deox-c do a gell, i believe you apply it pretty thick (a few mm) then cover it with cling film to stop it evaporating and leave it overnight, in the morning you clean it up and wire brush, then reapply it again if some rust remains. could suit for what you're thinking.

crikey its been a while since i updated, between work and a new house progress hasn't been as swift as i'd hoped, nevertheless i've got a few things completed and still progress on the boil; - got some of alexg60 new window rollers fitted, window rattle lessened - new parcel shelf straps and new door pins fitted, door closing definitely exhibits more of a clunk now - fitted some new 5.25" door speakers and replaced the tweeters, doesn't add any base but tone is certianly improved - fitted new door windows seals, pricey at £60 each, lessened the window rattle to practically zero now - cleaned up and fitted the moonroof, then adjusted it suit the opening, fits well and well pleased with it. what a ball ache getting the headlining out was though.... and i have to do it all over again as one of the cables snapped a few weeks ago :bonk: - i've refurbed the vento cups in a mid grey metallic, only have a pic of the rim refurb at present though - i've also spent some time on the paintwork, now this may be controversial but I've basically been repainting with a gloss roller using the rustoleum method, all in i've probably spent £100 on supplies and am probably 5% away from getting the car finished, its taken a lot of time and effort but i'm rather pleased with the results demonstrated by the couple of snaps below. yep there's imperfections, but i never intended for this car to be a show queen, i have it to get me to the surf and to satisfy my tinkering tendency's.

i heard once that hair spray works as a protective layer on brake lines and such like. maybe ask the missus if you can borrow hers lol.

that's a good respray price. i say change, do something different, gray metallic would be pretty cool i reckon.

yep, i have a serious caddy hankering at present. don't worry, the rado apathy will pass and the love will return.

There's only one answer. Sunderland for PM. Lets see how you prioritise competing needs and stay in power long enough to see them implemented.

that's the shizzazzle 8) the colour suits it i reckon.

you'll need; - length(s) of threaded bar - 2 as you'll strip threads from at least one. nuts and washers to suit. - 2 lengths of pipe with welded plate and central hole on either end of each. shape each of the other 'open' ends of the pipe to suit the beam and curved pushing end of the bush. give the leading edge of the bush a slight shave, and grease it to facilitate easy entry... assemble bits above, i'm assuming you'll understand how, then push em home, or; pay a pro like John a few quid to do it for you and save yourself the hassle :)

Generally they belong to either the NAEA or the RICS. Of the two RICS take customer complaints very seriously, you could threaten report of inaction to either organisation.

yeh agree airflow is really high, too high to affect temps when you consider the manifold alloy can accommodate differential temps from internal to outer face, so it may feel hot but internally its probably a lot closer to incoming air temps - i didn't feel brave enough to stick a temp sensor onto the inner face though :) i investigated phenolic spacers to insulate the manifold from the head to avoid conduction you mention, i guess you could take it to extremes and insulate all brackets as well but i just couldn't see the science in the first place.

thread revival :) just clearing through old computer files and came accross the spreadsheet i did years ago! aim was to guage how qucikly air was drawn through the 9a inlet tract, and whether its temp could be even slightly affected by the 'external' manifold temps, without getting into metallurgy of the inlet alloy. after looking at it i was pretty sceptical than insulating an inlet (to keep it colder) on any vehicle was of any benefit at all given the speed at which air moves through it, and am now wondering if i actually got my calcs wrong as lots of people still seem to swear by it! are my calcs wrong?? 16v intake dims.pdf

Welcome along, try a search for the buyers guide, anything else just ask we're a friendly bunch :)

a copper once told me it was 10%+2, so 35, 46, 57 and 79, doubt the cameras are that lenient tho.

flat out on repeat for last week, this breaks my heart.