seanl82

Oh and yours being an early car, you'll need a late bonnet too as the early one will hit the engine when it's all in.

You shouldn't be able to lift it up. Sounds like the cable or securing parts are broken. You know you need pretty much the whole front axle, subframe, gearbox, etc for the vr conversion don't you. It'll convert it to 5 stud, so you'll want the whole rear axle for consistency too. :shrug:

Wow, good deal on that exhaust, looks like New! As said, you'll understand the love when your feathering the throttle at about 4k rpm round a corner, then plant it as your exiting and the burble of the beautiful silky v6 sings to you! I can't wait to get mine back.......... :(

Haha, not quite Rob you mucky bugger! It's a group of 8 of us, all couples just out to have a drunken weekend to unwind without the kids.

I'd have a couple too Rob. :thumbleft:

Think it's in the wiki The switches run hot because they draw a lot of current when on. A few have reported melted wiring that have fused together. It's when the insulation melts and the wires short that potential fires can occur. An inline fuse on the positive wire ensures this doesn't get our of hand, but it's a problem with all late cars and nothing to do with uprated looms. A fuse and holder costs less than a couple of quid from maplins so well worth doing.

Indeed Ruf! The kids are with the grandparents and we're at a messy adult weekend in Butlins. Will be off out shortly to repeat the process!

Me..............

Shhh now Sean, you don't want to give them an indication of how much we're willing to pay!

Except when it comes to expenses.......... :silent: They're all professional thieves if you ask me. Selling government firms for pocket change after they've chucked the money they've claimed in expenses into the shares. Once sold, said share prices go through the roof, they cash those shares in, causing the private company who bought the firm to push prices up to ensure they don't cut a loss. Government then declares a recession as no one wants to buy from this private firm as GDP is now far far less than we owe to the world Bank, so they increase taxes and the circle begins again. Steal fromvthe poor and give to the rich.

His last activity on here was over a week ago. Seems a shame. I bought a number plate tub off him a couple of months ago, which eventually arrived, but did take quite a while due to an apparent mix up in posting...........:shrug:

I've seen (on wheeler dealer!) that you can use a bit of rigid(ish) tube and thread it through the aperture seal, to sort of bulk it out. Seemed to work quite well which may be an option if your reluctant to stick stuff to the door mate.

Best bet for looms is to ask on the breakers threads for a good uncut one. You think yours was bad, mine didn't even have electrical tape. Just bare twisted wire shorting and earthing all over the place! I soldered and heat shrunk everything in the short term, but I've just bought a good replacement entire car loom off a breaker to get it sorted once and for all. Make sure you strip all the seam sealer and bonding off the wings if you can. It stretches out of shape, and is an utter nightmare trying to get it lined back up and sitting right afterward. Good luck though, look forward to seeing this progress. :thumbleft:

I think thats just a trim Hasan. The door is sealed by the aperture seal on the frame itself. Not much you can do to the door one tbh.

If you'll take £40 posted I'll have em Gar.

Thought I remembered those wheels. Not my cup of tea tbh! I thought the slam panel was a "style" mod.................. Anyway, heres the previous members gallery thread. Hope you get everything you need sorted in good time, and it doesn't throw up too many gremlins. :thumbleft: http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=82118

The furniture clinic stuff is the best I've used, although maybe a little hard to compare after the furniture clinic refurb I did. Before I used Gliptone which I thought was good, but the cleaner is a bit gloopy so you tend to use quite a lot. Most modern leather is sealed yes, it has a lacquer layer to give it the matt/satin/gloss shine, but the conditioners are essential. They don't need to penetrate into the leather, as the actual leather rarely cracks unless it's far gone. what actually cracks is the paint (yes it's painted, how else would there be so many colours!). This is what the conditioner keeps moist and supple.

I saw a mk3 golf one in the scrap yard at the weekend that looked identical actually. Thought it strange that it hadn't been said on here as there's got to be aftermarket ones around?

You'll need to press them out I think Rob. There is a VAG specific tool for inserting and removing them iirc, which you could probably replicate with a bit of knowledge of how it works. Just finding someone with the right one!

Me too!

Thanks Rob, appreciate it mate. If it turns into a bit of a hassle, don't worry bud. I'll just have to stop being such a tight arse and fork out for it! :lol:

Vibratechnics front and gearbox mounts are no more expensive than dealer supplied standard ones and I'd recommend them. Go competition front and fast road GB. Stick with a standard rear if it's in reasonable condition as it doesn't make any real difference. Personally, I'd stay away from poly bushes but it's your call. A bit too firm and surprisingly don't last very well. R32/TT bushes where you can to firm it up a tad, then OE bushes everywhere else. That'll give a nice compliant ride without breaking your back.

Looks so similar to mine, same wheels even. Well done Gar, you've just re-planted the all red rear seed! :lol:

Very pleased! Thanks Chris. :thumbleft:

Thanks very much Rob, appreciate it! No rush though buddy, it'll be a few weeks before I put it on I expect. :thumbleft: