seanl82

Spot on mate! I'm hopefully picking up a AAA in a couple of weeks. Planning on rebuilding mine up slow time with a bit of head work too.

Mine is also due for renewal in April, but currently with classicline on a 4k limited policy, all the extras and they dont take ncb into consideration. I'm 31, had a non fault accident in 2012 and have 3 points, and it was £215 for the year.

That's actually a pretty good price for a pair delivered. I've seen single ones go for almost that on here and eBay. :eek:

What's the going rate? After a late (coil pack) bare block and head with injectors preferably please. Mine needs a bit of work and after some thought, I'd like to chuck one in and build mine up slow time. Ideally must be able to courier also please. Thanks guys. :thumbleft:

Thanks gents, really appreciate the offers too its an amazing gesture from both of you. Rob, its a knock sensor I need mate, the doughnut shaped one just above the crank sensor. Thanks very much though pal. Ian, again thank you very much for the offer mate. I have to get all the seals around that area anyway so I'll just stick that on my list too mate. Its not too expensive so not a real problem. Thanks again though buddy. James, its a ball ache, but I want it to be done properly. It's pointless doing a half arsed job that'll only need sorting a little further down the line. I really wanted to attend a few more shows/meets this year, but what will be will be. I'm very lucky to have a good warm workshop to use for the time being, so I'll make the most of it whilst I still can. I never bought the car to sell a short while later, I wanted it to be a keeper for a long time. I knew it needed work and I'm prepared to spend on it. I don't have a huge amount of disposable income (thanks to a hugely expensive wedding I'm still paying for, mortgage, kids etc etc....) but I have enough to get what is needed over a period of a few months. I may now do what you are doing and keep it dormant for a little longer. I just don't want it to remain like this for who knows how long. That's when all the well intentioned projects end up on the scrap heap which I won't allow to happen. It was never mean't as a daily either, so I just need to get the motivation to get back on my bike! lol.

Ok had a quick look around the lump whilst on the stand today, and it looks like the HG has gone, but the other way. Not sure if I'm right, but looks like oil is seeping out between the head and block at the back. This will obviously set me back in time some, as if I replace the HG, the head will need a skim, and I may as well do stem seals, valve guides, tappets etc etc which will cost more and more. This has ****ed me off a bit, as I had the chance to buy a re-con VEGE head in December for £150 to my door like Ian did, but the missus vetoed it as it was so close to Xmas, and I didn't "really need it" :mad2: I'll have another look tomorrow and get some pics up, but a word of warning to others thinking of pulling their engine, when you think of how much money its going in to cost you, whatever number you pick off the top of your head, double it, then double that! This also means it will probably take much longer than previously thought, and I'm unlikely to make National Day. :sad: Oh, I also need a front knock sensor too as that broken, and a crack pipe. On the plus side, my radiator, oil cooler, water pump, drive belt and some seals have arrived, and I got an email from Furniture Clinic to say the colour kit, repair kit, and care kit I ordered have been dispatched.

Its quite possible yes. GIAC have a good reputation in tuning circles though I believe, but removing the chip will rule it out and its not difficult to do. Its just an eprom in the ecu, some are push fit but some are soldered. If you dont have the original chip it'll probably be easier to buy a good used replacement ecu with the same part number. Good luck with getting it all sorted!

Could do I suppose mate. Cheers.

Yes your right mate, thats what I meant. :bonk:

Cheers dude, appreciate your efforts. I'll pop in to tps and ask them when I order the rest of the stuff I need. Cheers Si! :thumbleft:

Thanks Si, thats for the studs though which I have the part number to from etka. I need the bolts that attach the downpipe to those studs mate.

Anyone know the part number for these please? I've had a look on Vagcat and can't find them. Its the bolts that connect to the studs (number 4 below). Cheers all!

Redline MT90 is usually the recommended gear oil mate. Available from Opie and you'll get forum discount too. :thumbleft:

Good god I'll be ashamed to update my thread now in case mine is compared to yours! I've got two sides of a4 for parts I need to order, and I've still not gone to the level you have Chris. I'm on for a grand in additional's to replace a bloody crank seal and radiator as it is! :brickwall:

288s are for the front Rob, I thought you were looking for rear? I think 226mm are right for the rear, although I'm not 100%.

Doubt theres much you can do about the rusty pipe other than welding it up tbh. If you use the proper spring clip down quite low it should seal properly though. The expansion tank looks correct, and the overflow problem could be just that it needs bleeding a bit more. Run it up with the cap off, and massage the hoses to release any trapped air. Other than that, the overpressure valve in the cap could have gone (blue ones are the better one, and are replacements for the old black one which is notorious for this problem), or the tank itself is blocked. Those are the cheap and easy fixes anyway. Your temps both water and oil look good to me. The coolant should sit bang on 90 pretty much at all times so that looks good. Oil good without being too hot, so I'd say its all pretty good in that respect.

Very clever that well done, it looks spot on! :thumbleft:

Haha, I'm not skilled in this area tbh, I just try to take plenty of pictures, label everything, and bag all bolts in labelled bags. Being meticulous pays off in the end. Obviously didn't anticipate this level of spending with regard to engine mounts and manifold etc, so it'll need an additional pay day to support it all! That said, I WILL make National Day so I plan to get it back in and running by mid April which gives me a couple of weeks contingency before taxing at the end of April/beginning of May. Clutch should be good as it was replaced less than 20k ago, and hopefully no horrors lurk behind the chain covers as they were replaced about 6k ago. I'll probably get a little ultrasonic cleaner for the injectors too for good measure, but apart from that its just consumables, gaskets and seals, re-wrap the looms and replace a few nuts and bolts. I've already got paint for the lump and plenty of cleaning gear so fingers crossed, I don't have any more surprises!

Cheers guys. I can imagine Chris. Just need to keep the final bill away from the missus! It's ok James, I won't be put off and I'll be back for National Day. I've done it before (albeit to a mk3 Golf GTI 8v) so I'm not overly phased by it. Need to start stripping the lump down a bit more and ordering a few more parts, then its a good clean of the bay and powdercoating a few parts before re-assembly. Job done!

vw classic parts mate. Don't think passenger side is still available though.

Didn't quite go as planned today. The engine is out, but I unfortunately sheared a few studs from the headers to the downpipe. :( Everything else came out relatively simply. The hardest and longest part of the entire operation was mounting the engine on the bloody stand! Now you see me. Now you don't! A few others One other thing, it doesn't look good, but can anyone identify these parts that were bouncing about at the bottom of my gearbox bellhousing please. Need a new front and rear engine mount I think, so may as well go the whole hog and get the lot. This is starting to get expensive..................:eek:

Excellent, thanks mate! :thumbleft:

What was your brief to oilman Rog? There's not much difference in price between this and the Fuchs stuff, and I need to order some in the next couple of weeks. My mileage is closer to yours but I think sounds closer to what Jim has described (just old and tired) if that makes any difference.........

Think it should be fine Rog. If it is a genuine 2.9 then no reason why not, but even the 2.8 with your original cams and inlet manifold will see you around the same power as is I believe mate.

I believe so yeah, although I cant say Ive ever seen one tbh.