seanl82

I've gone clear jewelled effect on the side repeaters. Looks much cleaner imo and a little more modern but still discreet at the same time.

Excellent, can you let me know how much with postage and your details and I'll get funds across buddy. Cheers Stone!

I was gonna get them from TPS Sean. I've got quite a large list of nuts, bolts, gaskets and seals etc and have most of the part numbers, so I'll be heading down there in the next couple of weeks mate.

I'll take the strut caps posted please! - assuming they're for a VR? Cheers!

Thanks Rob, I really can't wait for this stage to be complete. I feel like I will have a respectable car for the first time since buying it. There are quite a few more things I want to do, but I'll feel like I'm just improving things at that stage rather than remedying problems. It's the interior I'm most excited about. I'll put the pics up of it up side by side from when I first got the car as a before and after. It was diabolical then! Vwowner - I should have know that really, it what I've always done before but I saw ChrisL's and jumped on the bandwagon a bit. No great dramas though, it's only a couple of studs. I think your right about the chain covers too. I always suspected them, and when I first got the car, the visible bolts were very loose. I've got some of the dirko melting gasket sealant so it'll be done properly this time round!

I think I may just chuck this one back in for now actually Sean. I'll then do the head on the replacement and swap them over in situ later this year. Its only got 80k aparently, but stem seals, guides and lapping the vaves back in wont hurt and wont cost too much with a little skim either. My chains and tensioners are spot on so apart from the possibility of a little bit of chemical metal to the block, there shouldnt be any surprises. I'll then refurb the original head and sell the lot on I think. Only reason I'm not putting the new block in is because its a 2.8. I know its not much displacement, but I'm just a little of an OE freek in that respect!

Just ordered Vibratechnics mounts all round. Competition front, and fast road right rear and GB. Should have come to £320 odd plus delivery but C&R enterprises sold them to me for £300 delivered with forum discount which was nice. Should be here middle of next week. Booked a little Pug Bipper van to collect the replacement lump from somersetdub next weekend too.

5. In the place of the VR6 badge, and give the VR6 badge to Sean. :thumbleft: Or if you insist on keeping it, 2. Right looks best to me mate.

I'm so jealous of you right now...................

Sounds good, thanks Theo! I'll be interested to hear you opinion on them, and it'll be the first time I'd be out in someone elses!

I'm out on the lash in a minute, but give me a couple of days and I should have one. Things are progressing slower than I hoped. One step forward, two back as more parts now required.

The vibratechnics mounts are around the £85 ea for GB and rear, so even tps is half the price of them. Hmmmm, decisions.............

Congrats mate! :thumbleft: Fingers crossed mine will be back before too long!

Ignition switch connects to the bottom of the barrel so no new key or barrel are required. Sounds like you radio is connected to the permanent live feed rather than the switched. Have a look in the ice and secure section for wiring info.

Disregard, found it.

Number 10 on below diagram, can anyone confirm its available on its own, or does it come as part of a kit? Is it likely to be another obsolete part??? Thanks guys.

Thanks mate! I still need to put in an order at tps anyway so I can add these to the list if they're a decent price.

Ok I was man go Vibratechnics all round but I hear you. Anyone have any idea what the rear and GB mounts cost though? If it really is as it and dried as that, surely there's no risk grabbing them from GSF/ECP and the like?

Thought my ears were burning.

Must say, that looks excellent! I've just done mine with EL wire which is a bit cumbersome in places so this would be ideal. May well be interested dependant on final price.

Pretty sure the spring rate is a bit higher for the VR at the front.

Key should have a chip in if its a factory VR. When you say pop, do you mean from the bay, or could it be a fuse? If its the immobiliser, it'll start then cut out after about two or three seconds. Not uncommon tbh.

First half of the guide and this one can be found in the wiki. Part numbers at the bottom of the page in this link mate. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_clutch_and_timing_chains_replacement_part_2.html

Oh dear! Good job you caught it now though Rog, who knows what damage it could have caused if it had been left! Look forward to updates mate. Mines slowed down a little. (I've been doing Control! Last exam tomorrow though. :dance:)

The newest is almost 20 years old remember. If you wan't a car to just drive a few miles at the w.end and not have to spend any money on, don't buy a Corrado..... or any car over 10 years old tbh! You need to spend money on it, but they don't cost a great deal for most things. Preventative maintenance is the key. Occasionally replace the odd sensor, seal/gasket, service regularly and such like, and it'll be pretty reliable. Fuel economy, well if its just for the weekend, surely it isn't really an issue? If driven like your Nan, high thirties on a run is achievable. Mixed driving though will probably return mid 20s. Drive it like you stole it, and you'll be in the mid teens! If you buy a car as you've said with 150k+, just make sure its been looked after. Theres one just come up on here with extras that seems insanely cheap for everything included! They will go on for well over 200k if looked after and serviced regularly though.