seanl82

It's true though mate. I'm pretty sure that as the dealership was the first registered keeper, and it did 80k in less than four years of their ownership, they probably used it as their pool car. They obviously wanted a bit of a jump on the general public though, as it was registered at the end of Jan 95.

Congrats on a happy outcome! Glad it's all getting sorted and you'll be back on the road in her before long. :thumbleft:

Pretty sure MINE is actually that! Except it doesn't even have a sprayed grille anymore!

Only perk of having a puppy that wakes you up at 5:30 howling! :censored:

Interested in these! PM on the way.

Why am I not surprised by what Corsa drivers do.

Sounds like your heater matrix has given up the ghost mate. Either that or you have quite a leak into the cabin somewhere, and the stale water is causing the condensation and smell.

Arc at old Roy Walker there, "say what you see!" :lol:

Not looking to sell on the BMC are you Jim?

Welcome Chris. Great forum here with lots of useful info. Have a look in the Wiki section for model specific common problems etc. There are a few decent ones in the sale section still up for grabs at good prices too! Hope you find the right one for you, and keep us posted. :thumbleft:

This is the proper stuff I believe Mic. Used for sealing chain covers too. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/171015704173?nav=SEARCH

Haha, that thought was in my head when writing it actually! You either need to do detailing by profession or be a plasterer to be ok! What Leopan says is correct too. At a minimum, give it a good clay. I de-tar and decontam (metal fallout) along with claying before I break out the machine. It's starting to get expensive isn't it! Don't worry about dedicated clay lube though, I use demonshine diluted 1:1 which will last ages and works perfectly well.

I did that first time round tbf. It comes with research and a bit of experience though, let the pad do the cutting, not your weight behind it. It's too much pressure and incorrect masking of shuts that destroy pads. Read the guide on Detailing World a few times, and watch a couple of vids on youtube and you'll be fine Rob. Rotary machines have a bad rep as they can be damaging if used incorrectly, but by being cautious, will produce unrivalled results.

That would do a pretty darn good job mate! :thumbleft: As I said, glazes are filler heavy, so you could add a coat of that in between polish and wax to hide anything not removed by the polish if you wanna go balls out. I don't envy you doing the t4 though, that's gonna be hard work! Prepare for aching arms! That's the only downside to a budget machine. Heavier, slightly noisier, and a shorter cable. But for a tenth of the price of a top of the range festool, it'll give just as good results.

Depends what level of cutting is required mate. Yellow is a medium cut polish, so will remove the vast majority of swirls and small scratches, and the blue is a finishing polish which will remove any machine induced holograms, buffer trails, and light scratches and swirls. It gives awsome depth of shine, and is Incredibly easy to work too as it doesn't dust up. Only downside is that as its a finishing polish, it needs a little more working in for harder paint types. (VAG as it happens!) It's a little more expensive than rivals, but these are mostly only available in 1L bottles though so by volume, work out much cheaper in the end. You could use ultrafina after the ultrafine plus, but it's not entirely necessary as the medium cut will give a decent level of refinement as it is. When using heavy compounds though, refining using a finishing polish is a must! I'm sure you've seen some very expensive resprays looking very flat and marred, well that's because of crap finishing by machine buffing using G3 which is as said, a heavy cut compound. Oh and yes, all the polish does is cut the paint back, or if it's a glaze, fill the scratches/swirls to mask them. A sealant or wax is a must afterward, or it won't last five minutes. I'm not one for concourse £250 waxes! So I use either finiskare p1000, or Collinite 476s which give a very good depth of shine, but best of all longevity. All for about £25 too! Using your QD is good during maintenance washes (weekly washes) to top up the wax layer and keep it effective.

I'd suggest the 3m range Rob. Pad colours correspond with the bottle lid, so it's nice and simple to follow and give great results. It's too easy to get caught up with tons of different pads for tons of different applications, backing plates, compounds/polishes/glazes yada yada and it can become overwhelming. Yellow ultrafine plus with yellow pad, and blue ultrafina with blue pad are all you'll need for excellent results. I use a budget but very capable silverline silver storm machine, and seal your paintwork after with a decent wax. (The AG HD is very good but a bit pricey imo). Best of luck with whatever you decide mate.

He's not been on here since December fellas. Gone all Jap now so doesn't have time for us anymore.

Think the programme for the year is pretty full at Castle Combs Rog. Have a look at the events calender on their website but don't think there's much room to slot in. It's been mentioned in the chufties thread about possible alternatives.

Tis now mate. I was fortunate to see the real thing a couple of times before H&S got involved and it was canned. Can't really put this pull a Canon across a car park thing in the same league! Anyone fancy doing a show/meet at HMS Collingwood Brickfields open day instead.............:shrug:

Field Gun day so no leave for me. :(

Thruxton may be good as it opens up the South and SW, as well as being not too big a distance for the Midlanders too? Very quick and fun circuit from what I gather.

Give her congratulations from the forum Chris! You must be very proud mate. See, those daily trips stood at the side of the pool rather than being spent on the Corrado are just as productive! Edit; oh, just realised that wasn't the first post! Onwards and upwards, well done her for doing it two years running!

Nope. Saw it listed, but gave it a wide birth. Decided to watch a terrible film with Jason Statham and Robert DeNero in instead. I also walked out the room after half an hour, as I'm sure it was equally as disappointing! I'm now led in bed reading instead. Much more fun.............

Thats pretty shocking Steve. Good job you realised and you got them back out. Shocking how many cowboys are employed by windscreen companies. There is a thread for recommended windscreen fitters and this is the reason why!

I think it would be generally ok tbh mate. The damping is progressive so firms up the closer to the limit you push it. It's on the limit that I think there would be the compromise. Firmer damping and less tyre sidewall flex would equal more oversteer imo, so wouldn't handle as well when cornering quickly.