seanl82

Ok I was man go Vibratechnics all round but I hear you. Anyone have any idea what the rear and GB mounts cost though? If it really is as it and dried as that, surely there's no risk grabbing them from GSF/ECP and the like?

Thought my ears were burning.

Must say, that looks excellent! I've just done mine with EL wire which is a bit cumbersome in places so this would be ideal. May well be interested dependant on final price.

Pretty sure the spring rate is a bit higher for the VR at the front.

Key should have a chip in if its a factory VR. When you say pop, do you mean from the bay, or could it be a fuse? If its the immobiliser, it'll start then cut out after about two or three seconds. Not uncommon tbh.

First half of the guide and this one can be found in the wiki. Part numbers at the bottom of the page in this link mate. http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_clutch_and_timing_chains_replacement_part_2.html

Oh dear! Good job you caught it now though Rog, who knows what damage it could have caused if it had been left! Look forward to updates mate. Mines slowed down a little. (I've been doing Control! Last exam tomorrow though. :dance:)

The newest is almost 20 years old remember. If you wan't a car to just drive a few miles at the w.end and not have to spend any money on, don't buy a Corrado..... or any car over 10 years old tbh! You need to spend money on it, but they don't cost a great deal for most things. Preventative maintenance is the key. Occasionally replace the odd sensor, seal/gasket, service regularly and such like, and it'll be pretty reliable. Fuel economy, well if its just for the weekend, surely it isn't really an issue? If driven like your Nan, high thirties on a run is achievable. Mixed driving though will probably return mid 20s. Drive it like you stole it, and you'll be in the mid teens! If you buy a car as you've said with 150k+, just make sure its been looked after. Theres one just come up on here with extras that seems insanely cheap for everything included! They will go on for well over 200k if looked after and serviced regularly though.

That Vege lump looks excellent Theo, top job mate! Need to update your sig now too! See you in a couple of weeks. :thumbleft:

There are two on offer from GSF, a value one and a premium. When I got mine, I got the premium one and it was Behr/Hella. That was about 9 months ago I think.

The cap should only fit on in one position iirc, so rotate it round until it sits right. The two spring clips can then be secured.

I have a good genuine VAG/Valeo used one with a manufacture date of 12/2008 I believe you can have for £15 posted? I took the heater box out to sort the bowden cables and bought a new one as there was no history of it being replaced. Upon removal it looked/looks spot on, but I replaced it anyway for peace of mind.

Furniture Clinic do a dye. You can brush it, spray it, or soak it on. I've just bought some acoustic carpet to re-cover my parcel shelf due to 6x9 holes , and I'm probably gonna get some to match it all up nicely with the rest of my interior. (Mine is beige but they have my match already on record). Black will be a standard colour that they stock though. http://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/Fabricolour.php

They look similar to zender turbos. Google that Ron, there are a couple of polished sets without the cutouts around the centre on Corrados. Look good!

£5? You'd better put a rough price up mate, mods get a bit cross!

Yeah, pretty sure I have them in mine. I remember hanging them over my garden fence a couple of years back, but can't remember if it was my old Corrado or the Golf. I can't remember if they are in mine now, but I think they are.

Front footwells under the sound deadening. I think they're heat shields but not 100% mate. They fit in between the raised support parts in the wells so the sound deadening sits flush on top and doesn't show through the carpet.

Those are standard James. Think they're heat mats as the pockets are filled with sand or something.

Not a lot else you can do whilst the sump is off. As said, just change the gasket, and its worth inspecting and cleaning the oil pump pickup gauze if there is anything there that shouldn't be. Be careful you don't cross thread the three sump bolts located inside the gearbox bellhousing. Use a ball ended allen key if you're struggling.

Strange one that, even declares on the website that you cannot tax without valid MOT certificate, and if it was computerised they'd surely know....... Sad news on the failure Rob, was it far off? Whats the prognosis, just a lambda or something, or does it just need a good Italian tune up to blow the old cobwebs away as its been stood so long!

Water should sit pretty much bang on 90 all the time, and oil will vary depending on driving conditions and outside temp, but between 104 and 114 is pretty standard.

The bearings are not part of the disk, the races are just pressed in. The disk with bearings attached will just pull out as soon as the large nut is off. I wouldn't advise re-using bearings, but if you do then the races can be knocked out from behind using using a flat head screwdriver or punch. Be careful though. If you're using new bearing anyway, new races come with them (they are tapered bearings so separate races if that wasn't clear), and need to be pressed into the disk using a suitable hydraulic press, or a 34mm socket? (around that size iirc - the same diameter as the race), and carefully hammer it down. races then just sit in behind the weather seal. As said, don't tighten the nut up too much, finger tight only. If you tighten it up too much, the heat generated will expand the bearings and destroy them whilst you're driving. Ask me, I know.............:ignore:

Did a compression test a few months back and all was well within tolerance mate. I replaced the rocker gasket about 10 months ago too (just after I got the car) as it was leaking then. I know what you're saying mate, but its got pretty tappy over the last three or four months, and a little smoky on start up (I realise its been winter and shows more but it has got worse). Just seems daft not to do as much as possible without getting carried away whilst its out. I'm picking up a 2.8 on the 15th hopefully so I'll chuck that in for the time being, and rebuild this one over the next few months.

Just looking at mine now Chris, mine runs under the abs pump, behind the downpipe bulkhead heatshield and straight into a bulkhead mounted cylinder for the pedal I assume. Is that what you have?

Is it worth replacing all valve springs when I refurb my head? I've seen upgrade springs on heritage too, are they worth the extra and what are the benefits? Cheers!