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seanl82

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Everything posted by seanl82

  1. Have a look in the classified section here mate. Two very low mileage examples probably still for sale.
  2. seanl82

    Battered Storm

    Don't do it! Its never so bad you just get shot of it! Look at the first couple of pages on my members gallery if you want to see a real battered one, and I've managed to turn it round into a decent enough example. :smug:
  3. Not sure she'd go for that mate! I had planned on getting it all out at the weekend. I'll be in Surrey filling up sand bags instead now. Couldn't have come at a worse time really. :x
  4. Some sort of block between each spring and clamped above and below. It'll stop the spring compressing as much but is a bit pikey tbh and will probably be a DIY job. Only proper option is a set of stronger (thicker) springs.
  5. Think there is one but it controls the signal to both sides mate, so probably ok. Its generally a problem with the connection between the door and shut from what I've read, although the motor itself can sometimes be at fault.
  6. Check switches on both doors to rule that out, check door shut connectors, check for supply at the motor. There is a window control module behind the rear drivers side card. Not entirely sure if that would be at fault as I don't know if they'd both go with that tbh, but worth a thought mate.
  7. Yeah I understand Sean. Just a case really of how much I can afford to get done tbh! - Well, without the missus knowing anyway! lol.
  8. Can you PM me your address and details too please Dave, I'll whip mine off at the weekend and send it up to you to mod if that's ok. No real rush to return if you have a bit of a back log now!
  9. Thanks Martin. I'll drop by there and speak to them at the weekend hopefully. :thumbleft:
  10. Snatched another hour at lunch today. front end all off now and I've started labelling wiring. Its not a great deal, but sticking it here is ideal to document whats going on and a little reference. Happy to say every nut and bolt has come out without any trouble at all, although there are one or two missing screw around the fan shround and plastic supports at the front which I'll replace. Its all very solid so far, though there are a few small rust scabs on the cross member but nothing at all to worry about. Anyone know how much powdercoating costs roughly for each of the valance, cross member, fan shroud, Front mount bracket etc? Never had anything done so just curious if its worth doing if its not too expensive!
  11. Goldie - yeah it is mate. I've taken over as Manager recently ad it had been a it neglected for quite a few years, so once I finish my current module it's all hands to the pump to bring it up to scratch and make it into a respectable club again. Rog, Sean - I'd planned on pulling the engine to replace a leaking crank seal and give the engine and bay a good clean up and paint at the end of the month anyway, so with the rad I thought I may as well do it all together.
  12. Haha, its a bloody mess in there, but I'm on the case Rob! Got a few quid to make it look a little more presentable and professional, and to get a few tools. Floor paint alone is almost £800 though so thats most of the budget gone! Should be very good once finished, but like most things, its a lengthy project!
  13. Its started. Had an hour at lunch today and whipped the front end and bonnet off. Pic shows slam still attached but that's off too now. I braced myself thinking it would be quite heavy as it looks quite substantial, but it was surprisingly light actually! Just compiling a list of parts I want to change, but when the engine is out I'll be able to identify what else needs changing. I'm doing it slowly from here on in as I'll be taking lots of photos and labelling everything I can so I don't forget what goes where! Looking very sorry for herself.........shouldn't have wet herself then should she!
  14. VR were 90a and 120a if a/c was fitted iirc. The windings never really fail, it's just the brushes, springs and sometimes although rarely the regulator that go. The bearings can also be replaced which is worth it, and that's about all a refirb will consist of apart from painting the casing. Works out a lot cheaper than buying even a second hand replacement most of the time, although it's a bit of a faf sometimes. Well worth it if you can find the refirb parts though.
  15. Ah right. Yeah mine are 8mm ones. I thought the Magnecor leads only came in 8mm and 9mm flavour!
  16. They fit in with a little filing of the retaining lip on the guides, but I didn't want to do that. I've tried a fair amount of force to get them in, but didn't want to go too hard for fear of breaking something!
  17. Hmmm maybe your right then............ Never heard anyone mention it before tbh. Bolsters just look different so assumed they were. Good alternative if true!
  18. Sounds good, I'll give em a call. Thanks guys!:thumbleft:
  19. I don't think the mk3 ones are the same. The bolsters on the mk3 are not as high as the C ones and flare outward a bit more.
  20. Yep, need to be 7mm to fit. I have them on mine (were on when I bought it) in blue and are 8mm, and tbh I think they look a little scruffy because they don't fit in the guides.
  21. The upper bolsters are one piece, kind of an n shape going over the top. The lower bolsters are seperate. Might be worth trying to find a cheap set of seats locally, and using the passenger bolsters to replace your drivers one. The foam is the same for both seats, and the fabric on the lower bolsters clip out. Upper ones would require new cloth as to replace with a passenger one, you'd have a hole for the tilt handle on the inside mate. If you found a set at a reasonable price, you could sell on the plastic parts for a few quid, and it would work out probably less than the £35 for a new one, although a little more hassle.
  22. 2 - unless resprayed. Water ingress is likely to be coming through the seal at the bottom of the cabin filter
  23. Hi all, I've had a search but cant find much, but I'm sure it was mentioned recently. Does anyone know a company that can supply a good quality rad - preferably not over the £150 mark. A stone had punctured mine. :censored:
  24. Just had a good look and yep, new rad required. :( Looks like a stone has managed to find its way right between the slats in the grille, and puncture it. Now in car club ufn whilst I pull out just about everything in front of the dash. :cowboy:
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