seanl82

Evening chaps, got an email back from the company linked above, they say the suppliers of them are behr (which I know are part of hella) and AKG. Anyone ever heard of AKG? They say they are also a supplier for behr, just never heard of them so am trying ensure I get quality. Thanks!

Welcome Craig, look forward to seeing some pics of a real bargain there!

Yeah fair enough, I just saw them whilst I was compiling my list of parts and remembered fuzzer saying £150 for a set. Thought I'd throw these in the mix at less than half the price quoted was all. :thumbleft:

Welcome! Get some pics up of yours, good to see new members cars. :thumbleft: As for your questions, I'm not entirely sure about the amount of Nugget G60s tbh. I think there are probably more than 300 G60s left though. Quite a few on here, club GTI and Edition38 as well. There are also a few 16v G60s knocking about. Most have used the KR as a base I believe, although I think there may be a couple using the ABF too. Its already a limited market with these cars, and they are at rock bottom pretty much price wise. You wouldn't de-value the car by doing it, but your pretty unlikely to see the money back it would cost you to do the conversion.

Febi ones from VW Spares (AVS) - £5.94 incl VAT ea. Just over 70 quid for a full set is a good price if you ask me. Decent brand and AVS are a good company to deal with.

Dave16v supplies them Rob. Have a look in the suppliers forum, he's got a thread on there for the practically the whole front end.

Have a look in the wiki section on the chain replacement guide Rog, should give you most of the information you need from there mate.

Very nice indeed! 964 Turbo is on my top 5 list! Absolutely one of the best looking cars ever made imo!

Have a look in the classified section here mate. Two very low mileage examples probably still for sale.

Don't do it! Its never so bad you just get shot of it! Look at the first couple of pages on my members gallery if you want to see a real battered one, and I've managed to turn it round into a decent enough example. :smug:

Not sure she'd go for that mate! I had planned on getting it all out at the weekend. I'll be in Surrey filling up sand bags instead now. Couldn't have come at a worse time really. :x

Some sort of block between each spring and clamped above and below. It'll stop the spring compressing as much but is a bit pikey tbh and will probably be a DIY job. Only proper option is a set of stronger (thicker) springs.

Think there is one but it controls the signal to both sides mate, so probably ok. Its generally a problem with the connection between the door and shut from what I've read, although the motor itself can sometimes be at fault.

Check switches on both doors to rule that out, check door shut connectors, check for supply at the motor. There is a window control module behind the rear drivers side card. Not entirely sure if that would be at fault as I don't know if they'd both go with that tbh, but worth a thought mate.

Yeah I understand Sean. Just a case really of how much I can afford to get done tbh! - Well, without the missus knowing anyway! lol.

Can you PM me your address and details too please Dave, I'll whip mine off at the weekend and send it up to you to mod if that's ok. No real rush to return if you have a bit of a back log now!

Thanks Martin. I'll drop by there and speak to them at the weekend hopefully. :thumbleft:

Snatched another hour at lunch today. front end all off now and I've started labelling wiring. Its not a great deal, but sticking it here is ideal to document whats going on and a little reference. Happy to say every nut and bolt has come out without any trouble at all, although there are one or two missing screw around the fan shround and plastic supports at the front which I'll replace. Its all very solid so far, though there are a few small rust scabs on the cross member but nothing at all to worry about. Anyone know how much powdercoating costs roughly for each of the valance, cross member, fan shroud, Front mount bracket etc? Never had anything done so just curious if its worth doing if its not too expensive!

Goldie - yeah it is mate. I've taken over as Manager recently ad it had been a it neglected for quite a few years, so once I finish my current module it's all hands to the pump to bring it up to scratch and make it into a respectable club again. Rog, Sean - I'd planned on pulling the engine to replace a leaking crank seal and give the engine and bay a good clean up and paint at the end of the month anyway, so with the rad I thought I may as well do it all together.

Haha, its a bloody mess in there, but I'm on the case Rob! Got a few quid to make it look a little more presentable and professional, and to get a few tools. Floor paint alone is almost £800 though so thats most of the budget gone! Should be very good once finished, but like most things, its a lengthy project!

Its started. Had an hour at lunch today and whipped the front end and bonnet off. Pic shows slam still attached but that's off too now. I braced myself thinking it would be quite heavy as it looks quite substantial, but it was surprisingly light actually! Just compiling a list of parts I want to change, but when the engine is out I'll be able to identify what else needs changing. I'm doing it slowly from here on in as I'll be taking lots of photos and labelling everything I can so I don't forget what goes where! Looking very sorry for herself.........shouldn't have wet herself then should she!

VR were 90a and 120a if a/c was fitted iirc. The windings never really fail, it's just the brushes, springs and sometimes although rarely the regulator that go. The bearings can also be replaced which is worth it, and that's about all a refirb will consist of apart from painting the casing. Works out a lot cheaper than buying even a second hand replacement most of the time, although it's a bit of a faf sometimes. Well worth it if you can find the refirb parts though.

That's ace!

Ah right. Yeah mine are 8mm ones. I thought the Magnecor leads only came in 8mm and 9mm flavour!

They fit in with a little filing of the retaining lip on the guides, but I didn't want to do that. I've tried a fair amount of force to get them in, but didn't want to go too hard for fear of breaking something!