seanl82

Glad you've decided to do it mate! You'll need minimum 2 axle stands, trolley jack, hire an engine crane or buy one if you prefer, torque wrench, multi spline socket set, clutch alignment tool, and lots of basic tools. Not sure which manual you'll need. Passat workshop manual iirc. It will tell you in there of specific tools you need. It also gives good tips on how to fabricate your own tools for certain jobs so you dont need to buy expensive stuff you will never need again! (hopefully!). I'm sure someone will be along if I've missed anything. Good luck mate, and look forward to the outcome!

Mine were through TSR motorsport.

I had no auto mechanical knowledge when the oil cooler went on my mk3 golf, I was on the motorway at the time and didnt realise until my water temp was in the red. I checked oil temp on mfa straight away, and it was at the upper limit. I tried to make it from Exeter to Bristol (my destination), but only got as far as Taunton before it finally gave up the ghost. Massive engine temps, resulted in blown HG too so it was bye bye. I hired an engine crane, sourced a new lump for £50 and did it all myself, replacing loads and painting up the block like new! New clutch, lightened flywheel, new water pump, all gaskets and belts, and it all cost me less than the garage quoted me to skim the head and replace the gasket! Internet forums really are a massive wealth of knowledge, and I did it all with a haynes manual, and a forum, and some basic tools! Honestly, worth a go yourself, you'll grow in confidence with every step mate!

You need to check where its leaking from first. When you switch off, stay with the car. Pop the bonnet, check the header tank, and check under the car to see if theres any evidence of a leak. You may be able to see a leak, by looking for white crystal deposits around pipework, block, or radiator etc. By the amount thats going each time though, it may be that its just water left and very little coolant. Put some coolant in otherwise it may be just evaporating with the heat under the bonnet where its leaking. There is another possibility, but you've not mentioned rough running, and I dont wanna scare you yet!

It depends on the local authority. I did one about 18 months ago, and it was £60 for the course, or £60 fine and 3 points, so it was a bit of a no brainer at the time. I was doing 36 in a 30. Unfortunately 2 weeks after the course I got caught in Bristol (again) on the ring road by a mobile camera doing 69 in a 50, (in my defence parts of it are 70 and others are 50 so I was unaware). It should tell you, or provide a web address to where the centres are located, prices for the course, and ask you what dates are best for you. Your not treated like a crim on them, at the end of the day you were just speeding. They are very informal, with tea and biscuits, bit of a powerpoint presentation, group discussions, and a few very basic questions.

Nice! Love the fact the stickers are on the toilet, probably more for the fact you'd throw up if you open the lid than not to use the water!

What was paid for it shouldnt matter so long as it wasn't high end. I paid £550 for my valver, and the history was phenomenal. All that needed doing was a heater matrix, and the immobiliser packed in a month after I got it. As said, its far mote hassle than you'd think breaking it, and you can guarantee there will be tons of stuff you just wont shift cluttering the place up! If your confident enough, do it yourself for very little, or get a recommended garage to do it for whats actually not a great deal more. All the best.

As you say, I believe that the majority of VW Dealerships here are now Franchises, therefore Customer Services will vary from place to place.

Dunno, if its French the chances are it'll give up and fall to pieces pretty quickly! :lol:

Its panel filter only for the KR mate. Complex air/fuel mixture within the metering head doesn't allow for cone filter or anything else. Not much point changing from standard imo.

The reason I got it from Heritage was that it was about £9 from VW iirc! Yeah I know I'm a tight git!! No worries about the heads up. Where the two bolts attach the dizzy to the block, you can see the holes go round with the seat of the dizzy if you know what I mean. This means you can advance/retard the timing through the dizzy by twisting it round forward and back. To ensure its as was, mark the top of the dizzy and do the same on the block. This ensures they go back on in exactly the same place when re-fitting. You then know you've not put the timing out from how it was before you started.

No mate, you need to remove the distributor itself to get to them. The seal in the link is the main seal from the dizzy to the block, and the second one is accessed by removing the rotor shaft itself by removing it as well. I'll try and find the link now that I had when doing it. Here is the seal in the link - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=replacing%20distributor%20seal%20corrado&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CE4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fthe-corrado.net%2Fshowthread.php%3F39965-Distributor-and-Seal&ei=ebT6T9mRO8OR0AWb0sH_Bg&usg=AFQjCNEKP970YPRRbdB-ceyjCmnGpQEFBQ The other is accessed by removing the black rotor part. There is a retaining pin that needs to be knocked out and the shaft kinda disassembled to get to it. Its for a KR but no doubt the same. http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190271 Make sure you mark where the dizzy sits in relation to the block before hand too. It'll need to be re-timed otherwise. :thumbleft:

There are no seals in the cap itself, there are two in the dizzy to stop it coming through. I changed my main one, http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Seal-for-distributor-Golf-Mk2-16v_act_shop.product_pID_48418815_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1 to no avail. There is also another, but it requires the dizzy to be disassembled. I never got round to doing this though before she died a horrible death. :censored:

Alright Paul, not entirely certain, but pretty sure it won't I'm afraid mate. Thanks for bump though as they are still available! I'm moving in a few weeks so may go on ebay if no one wants them.

Have a look on VWVortex. Those crazy yanks may have tried it, or something similar using bike TBs. Dunno how much difference it'll make tbh, but using bike carbs gives a little extra in the power department, but that's only achieved by bunging tons of fuel in! Other option is ITB's which apparently yield better results.

Its had no detrimental affect on Lamborghini, so I don't think it will make a huge difference. It stabilises the company and improves QC I think, so Win Win! (Not that there was ever any question of quality within Porsche tbf.)

Such a shame, if she had her super licence, she could have had her first F1 drive last week as well.

Has anyone actually tried VW for this! My local dealer sell 5l Sinta Silver for £18!!

So true! I've not bid on many things due to this fact, as I just assume its from some young un' thats pushed it to its limit. Wrong and stereotypical I know........................

Im still waiting for the cheque! Mine was declared a CAT B write off. Think there is some problem with liability, although a bloke driving into a stationary car shunting us all forward into each other should be open and shut! I only got £1200, I was told to hold out for more, but Im moving in 3 weeks so didnt need the hassle. It is more than twice what I paid for it too!. I bought it back for £34.20 though!!! Sold it to be broken for £175 so made a few quid there as well.

As above, or the cat itself. If you replaced the engine though, would you do it yourself? I'd steer well clear of an engine from a prehistoric rocco though! Best option imo would be an abf from a mk3 golf 16v. Can easily be had for £150 nowadays. Factor in fluids and filters, new clutch, all gaskets and anything else you fancy and your still gonna have change from £500. Nice smooth reliable engine, and a small bump in power to boot!

Your cleaning the throttle body (kinda the same thing as a carb in old money) so thats a srtart. Im assuming he means the cork seal on the metering head, and its the seal on top of the airbox that the metering head sits on. ISV is a small cylindrical item that sits just to the right of your inlet mannifold. It sits in a round rubber retaining ring, and has an electrical connector on the end of it. It also buzzes when the ignition is switched on. To locate it if your unsure, switch your ignition on to turn two then back off a couple of times, and look for the thing thats buzzing.

Much easier if you can get it on the ramps again. The hub is often a biatch to get off though!!!

Yeah I had an MOT failure certificate for an excessively corroded front subframe. (Previous Owner). Not sure if they're still available, but I should imagine not as their specific to the C. The one fitted to mine after the failure was a second hand one I believe.

Maybe someone has planted a bomb inside the car!!!! :bomb::lol: As said its most likely a relay.