seanl82

We said that at the last world cup and were knocked out at the group stage. Same old same old.

This is the first international tournament I can remember where I'm not in the slightest bit excited. England bore the pants off me so although I'll probably watch all the games, I won't be perched on the edge of my seat with a cider in hand as I'd done previously. More like occasionally glancing at the TV when commentators start to get enthusiastic about something!

Possibly a fueling issue if it idles ok. Maybe start by changing the fuel filter, but could also be pump, fpr, or a mixture issue

This. :thumbleft:

Ok just had a look on their website. Low mileage which is why they're asking what they are, but nearing the point where chains could be an issue - especially at the age if not already done. Early interior with cloth as well so not as desirable. IMO, if you're a cash buyer I'd look in the private market. You could get the same car for around 2k less I reckon.

What is the mileage, and have the chains ever been replaced? Any engine work done in the past? The rubbers along the door have a metal strip through which can rust and warp them, so not necessarily due to rust on the door. Or as Jamo has said they could have been removed in the past and re-fitted, but again that may be due to the doors having been painted previously, so not necessarily rust again. It is decent money, but the good ones are easily fetching that now. Best of luck!

Both sound like common issues mate, the ABS doesn't become active until above 15 mph, so there is a fault in your system - and generally its the sensor at that point. If its done the self test at start up then everything else apart from the sensor should be good. Hesitation sounds MAF related to me. Unplug the MAF then drive for a minute to see if it persists. The fuel/air mix will go to default without it plugged in so you should notice it. Just don't leave it unplugged as they do sometimes cut out at this point.

Ha, didn't realise they were in poor condition!

Someone will pay close to that because they're Recaros. Not something I've ever thought seriously about due to the price if I've honest.

BMC CDA. No matter how much you enjoy any of the other mods, nothing beats the sound of it when you press the go pedal!

I've got BBS RX228s in that exact fitment. I'm lowered about 30mm on the Bilsteins but had coilies down about 40mm previously and had absolutely no issues with rubbing.

Maybe I got it mixed up then and the 195 width were on the early.... I'm positive the profile is 50 though.

Sounds like a good list of jobs to keep you busy! Just a side note, the Tyres are 205/50/15, or you can go down to 195/50/15 as some do and were as standard on the later cars I believe. A 55 profile tyre will put your speedo out slighty, and 185 width is a too narrow for 6.5" wide wheels I reckon

Congrats on the MOT! What was the problem with the emissions in the end?

Welcome to the forum! Good luck with your search, there is a basic buyers guide in the wiki section which should help you identify common problems. Any other help you need just post it up and I'm sure one of the many helpful members should be able to point you in the right direction! :thumbleft:

Only 7 years late but who's counting...

That's correct iirc. The bottom bit is retained in between a kind of fork and slit on a little white plastic clip that attaches to the lock mechanism. It's a ball ache of a job fitting it all together though!

Oh and the non starting does sound ignition switch related too. If it happens again, with switch turned to try and crank, give it a bit of a wriggle as it may well catch

Correct sequence is abs light comes on when ignition switch is in position 2. It's doing a self test, which includes the pump - the reason why you feel the pulse through the pedal. This is completely normal and correct. The light should go out after 2 or 3 seconds once the self test is complete. It sounds to me like your system is rigged to ignition live, rather than switch live which is why it's only coming on when you start cranking the engine

Ha, that was for sale about a year or so ago for half the price! The sunroof had a metal plate riveted over it with a ton of sealant around it too! At least it was water tight apparently!!!! lol.

Have you done a search for Corrado sunroof!? You'll see they're very common failure points, repair kits are long time obsolete and even replacement mechanisms in working order and like rocking horse **** and will cost you about 200 notes if you ever so manage to find a working second hand one. The wheel you mention can be swapped out with one from quite a few vag group cars of the same era, but they may also be in a poor state now. I'd definitely say to remove the whole mech as any further damage could cause big scratches in your nice new paint if attempting to move it when in place. I'd be insisting that the body shop sort and source as they've caused the damage

Check the relays mate. ECU and Fuel pump relays - 67 or 167, and 108 iirc. They're located just above the fuse box. Welcome to the forum by the way. Get some pics up and lets have a gander! :thumbleft:

Nice leather, driver focused binnacle and sporty steering wheel..........and a cheap slab of silver plastic centre console!. Looks awful and really brings down the quality of the interior imo.

:bonk:

As above. Helps widen your search so more are available and you don't have to pay "G60" tax!