seanl82

Boxster......

Sales of 3 door models have obviously got to a stage where its no longer financially viable for VW to develop and produce it. That will be pretty much the only reason industry will drop it. Its either that, or they're doing it to save money in the medium to long term.

I've seen this, in fact I had a small area on mine before it was cut out and welded new in. The seal has a metal tab that links it where it joins at the bottom. The water tends to collect at the seal join, and rots out the un-prepared metal tab and slowly works it's way to the lip where the seal sits. Mine wasn't particularly bad, a small finger nail sized bit of rust was there and hadn't gone all the way through, but I'm sure I could well happen to other cars with worse results.

I'm pretty sure walnut shells are used for areas where minimal agression is required. Sand or glass media will be fine on the rear beam as it's such a robust item so there is no need to be careful.

Look great! Top ones a bit further gone but assume it's to retain the colouring on the plaque? I think you can Matt clear coat it, though may be worth speaking to a good body shop to see what they recommend

Ah Martin the parts hoarder and Michael the rare part custodian. Opportunists the pair of you!! :lol: :thumbleft:

I'm at that stage. I've barely touched the car in about 18 months, and if it weren't for the fact that it's currently not even a roller, I may have considered it more. That said, if it was drivable I might have actually used it....... :scratch:

Anna Works for Heritage, so yeah - you'll be buying direct from them!

I used this on a few years ago on a Mk3 Golf quarter window. Sealed well, but can't say I did a particularly neat job........ Might be worth watching some YouTube vids to see how best to apply it.

In fairness, although mine has been off the road for 18 months now and had sporadic times of inactivity whilst I was either away with work, or trying to get the car in a better cosmetic state for the previous 4 years, the only single time it failed to start and run well was due to me constantly working on it, so the battery positive terminal had worn to a point it wouldn't clamp securely. I knew about it so had jump leads in the car, and the one trip I made before replacing the battery I just got a jump from someone passing!

Yep. I had to cut mine off, including the captive nuts so I've had to use nylocs as replacements.

I got mine from C&R enterprises iirc. Worth a call and they do the mk2 - mk4 kit for your rears if you're tempted to go for that too.

Depends on the offset (ET). 45 profile on 15" is small though, so your speedo will be out - though will be saying you're going faster than you actually are. 50 profile for 15" wheels on a Corrado is correct.

Showing your age now Rob! haha. Good luck with the MOT, I'm sure it'll fly through but its always a little bit of an anxious wait! :thumbleft:

There seems to be a rather large golliwog in your car............. :afro::black:

Where!? Dash inserts have broken clips and marks from stereo removal on many cars. They very very rarely become available in good condition. Can you share where they are available.

Have a google search, as I think it has been posted on how to make one from scratch. Its not difficult, and I believe the connectors are common across a wide range of VAG cars spanning quite a few years so should still be available cheap enough.

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

Wheels now sold

Oh yeah! That man speaketh the truth

Not sure if its early and late, but there are some with an adjustable steering column and others with a fixed one. The lever for that is on the cowling so that is the only difference as far as I'm aware....

Haha, understatement of the year there Martin! :lol:

My apologies with the WOT switch, I tend do go into auto and forget there are other types than the VR6! :bonk::lol:

Wide Open Throttle. Its not a switch just for WOT though, its a throttle potentiometer, and measures the entire movement of the butterfly. Its the electrical bit attached to the throttle body. Lambda is a real pain to remove, its in the middle section of the exhaust and the heat cycles pretty much weld it to the exhaust. You'll need to specific tool to remove it. Follow the cable though up to the plug which is attached around the rear engine mount and disconnect it there.

The majority of that will be due to camber. Have a look in the Wiki, I think the figures are in there for camber and toe but whilst your toe will cause some wear, it'll have to be ridiculously out to cause that damage. If I were you, I'd start looking for replacement wheels.