seanl82

Remove the bypass valves and just plumb the pipework directly to through to the bulkhead using copper pipe like below. You should then be able to tell if its the matrix or the bypass valves that are faulty. More likely bypass valves, but if your matrix is old then the additional pressure on it by removing them may cause it to pop. Worth replacing it if you can as I'm not sure the bypass valves are still available. If you can get them then you may be ok.

I'm not so sure. It's not super low mileage but does look very tidy indeed. Dealers seam to be going nuts for them at the moment though so who knows. That would be top retail price in my opinion for a valver. Add 3k if it was a G60, and 5k+ if it were a VR.

Just saw your other post, I take it the car hasn't seen the road in a while? If I were you, get your brake disks and pads sorted, then go for a short drive. Once you're over 15mph the ABS system will become active so it'll either go off and all will be well, slam on the brakes a few times to see if the pump valves kick in and clear up if they've become a bit sticky, or get a multimeter and google the wheeler dealer episode on the Corrado to check your sensors, or have a search on this forum for the link to the guide I did on my old mk3 Golf (pretty much the same) to see if your sensors are working. Other than that, get a different OBD reader or ask around if there is someone close with VCDS who will read the codes for you. Not seen that OBD reader before so no idea why it won't connect. Probably compatibility of some sort.

Get one from a mk4 4mo. The power output is greater so it's like a little turbine and fires right up! Direct fit too. GloucesterOx recommended it to me after Vince recommended it to him. Much more about and probably cheaper too.

That means its had the re-call, but the one on the right as you look from the front is the inlet, and the left is the outlet. If the pipe between is hot and the two into the bulkhead and matrix are cooler, then its bypassing and not feeding hot water for the blower to...........blow. Your matrix may need replacing at that point unless as Cressa has said, and either your slider isn't working properly (much less common failure than the later dial type), or the foam inside the heater box where the flap is has broken down and both hot and cold air are being blown through. Is it cold or just warm, and does it cool when driving but warm up when stationary?

Are both pipes that come through the bulkhead getting hot? If so it's doing it's job. Check the bottom rad hose as the engine warms up. If it's getting hot at the same rate as the top rad hose, your stat is stuck open. If it stays cold until water reaches near 90 it's working correctly. If it's an early car and has a bypass valve before going into the matrix, see if it's hot either side, but cooler on the pipes coming out of the bulkhead, the it's doing it's job and your matrix is blocked

Haha, been in your shoes so I know your pain! Once everything is back in the bay it should all look a bit tidier. It just looks like a complete snakes wedding when it's all over the place and loose like that. Good luck with it, it'll come good I'm sure! :thumbleft:

Condolences to the family. I don't think I ever met him but a sad fact none the less.

What year is your car? The bypass valves we're only fitted to early cars. You can tell if it's had the recall by the fact that one is metal and one is plastic. Does the air get cooler when driving then warm up again when stationary? That's the indication that the stat is stuck open. Worth bleeding properly if you think there might be air in the system though. They're notorious for being difficult to bleed. Just run the engine up from cold with the expansion cap off, alternating revs up to 2.5k then idle for 30 secs each. When idling, massage the pipes to force air to the top. When temp reaches 90, switch off, let it cool the top up as necessary.

Could be a number of suspension or steering related parts. Best to get it up in the air and check over everything if it feels wrong.

Yeah I got some a couple of years ago and they were pretty cheap mate. The belt fo the fans was still available at the time as well.

Welcome to the forum! Its a shame the CCC died as there were some good guides on there. Some good ones here too though and a great knowledge base. Make yourself at home!

Use a pair of long nose pliers in the hole of the grommet, pull the handle apart to create a wide enough gap to feed the new hose through. I've got a spreader tool type thing but this should work fine mate.

Sorry, forgot you had already read the codes! I was getting confused with another thread I think! Have you cleared them then read again to see if there are any additional codes?

The system does a self check at start up so if it doesn't come on initially the the valves are probably ok. The actual circuit starts reading wheel rotation from around 15mph - which suggests it's something to do with the sensors, reluctor rings, or the loom itself. You're honestly best off getting the codes read. Even with the early 2x2 diagnostic ports, a £2.50 adapter will enable a modern obd reader to give you the correct codes and point you in the right direction.

I just used hammerite on mine. It's a good all rounder and cheap enough. I'm sure it'll last 10 years plus which is good enough for me as I'll likely have to replace them by then anyway. I DIY ultrasonically cleaned them but without a flow test I'm not sure how effective it was

Welcome to the forum! Good luck with your search and you've done the right thing joining prior to purchase so you can gain some knowledge of the common issues. Worth a look in the wiki section at the buyers guide too. It's a little old now but still covers most things to watch out for. Any idea what you're looking for and do you have a budget in mind?

The first image, OL is open link. That means it has no reading and the circuit is open, therefore the cable is completely broken down. Check the earth necxt to the battery too. It goes to a stud right next to the battery tray just to the side. Not meaning to insult you, but when checking current, make sure the meter is set to Amps

Looks absolute crap imo. You're right as well, spray from a car in front or a big puddle could well cause catastrophic internal damage. Will reduce performance loads too as it'll be filthy and saturated all the time, so won't allow air to actually flow.You can get cold air feed pipes and put them anywhere you want. I wouldn't run it from too low down or pointing at the floor, but as long as you're not hard on the accelerator going through puddles and you put a bend or 2 in the pipe, it should deflect enough to not suck a ton of water up.

Glove box light or ash tray are switched live as well I think? Both would be good for a tracker and hide it under the dash somewhere as its easy to find (and therefore remove) under the bonnet.

My favourite for look is Chemical Guys Petes 53 paste wax. The wet look is incredible, but it doesn't last all that long. For longevity, I use Collinite 476s, or Bilt Hamber Double speed wax. Both look great and last too.

Great stuff Chris. Looking like it'll be an absolute cracker when finished. Kudos to you for all the work done by your own hand so far! :thumbleft:

Jabbasport or JMR are probably the only reliable places with any real experience on these chargers. I wouldn't trust anyone else if it were me tbh mate.

Sorry to hear that. When I had the same issue DT customer service was excellent. Bilstein on the other hand we're atrocious, and Eibach sent the correct springs directly to me in the end. Bilstein know of the issue but it seems even after 3 years (since I raised it) and probably a couple more before me as they were aware, they still haven't sorted it out and obviously just hope that people don't know about it.

Dor cloth Recaros with loom and in decent condition, £800-1200 is generally what they go for.