seanl82

I also have the B12 kit, though I've not yet driven it with the correct rear springs (different story/thread), even so, it was night and day better than the Weitec Coilovers that were on there before.

Yeah he does early and late type. For info, the VR6 engine was purchased by Ford for use in the Galaxy (atrocious car), but as such, they also still do some parts for it at much cheaper prices than VW apparently. Not sure if part numbers are the same, and if not where you'd find them though.

Hi Bryan, Congrats on your purchase, and welcome to the forum. What is the fan problem that you're having? There are a few known fan problems depending on your symptoms. Let us know what you're experiencing and we'll try to help where we can. For info, Stealth racing in Southam aren't too far from your general area. They're one of if not the, most knowledgeable professionals in the UK for all things Corrado.

The first lot that Sprinter offered were much cheaper, but someone bought a few of them and put them on ebay for a vastly higher price. No unsurprisingly, Sprinter didn't take too kindly to that so he put his prices up for all unfortunately. Fortunately for me though, I bought a set in the first run! :smug:

The heater resistor is a common failure and gives symptoms of the heater only working on setting 4. The position of the fan and the inlet duct for it in the scuttle panel area means when the seal breaks down, it allows rain water in. This is likely to be the reason it cought on fire, as either it arced on the electrical components or as you may have had, just dried out the bearing on the fan causing it to become noisy and necessitating replacement. The other problem you have is that the direction flap is covered in foam which should direct warm/cold air to where it's set, but if the foam is broken you'll get air to your dash vents regardless. Finally, the direction dial is also a common problem as the Bowden cables attached from the dial to the airbox become stiff, so end up being forced and either break the teeth on the gearing, jump teeth, or break the mounting points for the cables. Heater matrix is weak and can block so you'll only get warm or cold air, or they'll rupture and spill boiling hot coolant into your foot well. Early signs are fogging of the windscreen. All common problems (except the fire which is rare and extreme) unfortunately.

I think so. Though I only have experience of VR6 which doesn't have an underbody one, but the in tank one is relay number 67 or 167. If you remove the fuse cover, the relays are above the fuse board. You should be able to tell if it's working by simply putting your finger on it then turning the ignition on. You should feel it click where it engages. Ah, just saw the other thread. As mentioned if one is priming then the relay sounds good.

Worth checking the crank sensor too. You should be able to see it at the front of the motor near the bottom left side. It has a hex bolt holding it in and is at a right angle to the motor. Its very common for the plastic to become brittle and crack at the right angle, and cause cutting out when it gets hot. It usually doesn't re-start until temps are down, but worth checking. Other things to check are the throttle damper. Just twist the butterfly valve to open the throttle, and watch it close. It should soft close toward the end to ensure revs don't flat out.

Worth checking/replacing the fuel pump relay before forking out for a new pump.

Worth sticking it on the facebook pages Troy, there seems to be a lot more footfall on there than on here these days.

No the original headlining isn't alcantara. I think what Hasan was saying is that if you re-do it with faux suede, it'll look a little like alcantara which is a more plush material. You'll really struggle getting anything to match your sunroof cassette material. The material is foam backed, which is what is stuck to the headliner. Unfortunately its the material that comes away from the foam which is why its so difficult to put it back on. Your only real option other than replacing the lot, is removing the entire material, using an upholstery glue in an aerosol on the foam, and waiting until its almost dry. You should then be able to put the material on and hope it sticks well. If the glue is still a bit wet, it'll just bleed through the material and you'll end up with crusty patches all over the place. It looks terrible if that happens. I'd just get a decent foam backed beige material and redo the lot. It won't be OEM perfect, but it'll be neat and shouldn't be overly noticeable unless the colour is way off.

I'd check all your vac hoses to make sure there are no breaks or splits first, but it could be a battery or alternator issue. The fact that revs change when you switch on the heaters is normal. You're demanding more from the battery, and so the alternator will supply more power to compensate, hence you get the slight drop then surge whenever you turn on any electrical item. The lights are usually most noticeable. 1200 rpm is high though, so unless someone has been fiddling with your idle screw to mask or incorrectly overcome a stalling issue (sounds plausible), I reckon checking vac lines and intake pipework should be your first port of call mate.

Angus, If you can, I'd advise seeing if the engine turns over by hand, then draining any fuel and sticking a tenners worth of fresh fuel in. You should at least then be able to see if it'll jump start before spending on a new battery. It'll appeal to far more potential buyers if its at least running, and you may also be able to take it for an MOT if you wish as well mate.

Hi Angus, sorry to hear about your uncle. It's difficult to price them without seeing, as you've mentioned the prices vary so much. Do you have any invoices for engine work (timing chain replacement)? Is it cloth or leather upholstery? The fact it's been off the road for a pretty significant amount of time will mean quite a lot of the suspension and running gear bushes etc will need replacing as well as tyres. Has it been started regularly over that period, and does it run now? With near mint bodywork, leather interior, and if it's a runner, you may be able to push £3k, but if not and despite the body being in good order, I don't think you'll get more than 2k mate.

:salute::thumbleft:

AP have very good reviews. Apparently they're KW but zinc coated rather than stainless.

Just saw the post, shoots my reply down! I'll amend my statement, not sure it'll be a VW 6 pot though! :thumbleft:

Did he now! I saw the scissor lift he'd bought, not sure it'll be a German six pot on it though! He goes through cars like I go through underwear Rob! Haha :lol:

Merry Christmas all! Rob, I got the Corrado only parking sign from Heritage too. I think I mentioned it to the missus when Anna first posted about them (I was probably fishing for it!), but I had forgotten. Didn’t think she would remember the Heritage site anyway if I’m honest but kudos to her, I’m happy! :thumbleft:

Yeah the comma stuff will do perfectly. As mentioned by by Dox, don't overtighten (especially the tapered rear ones) as it'll score the races/stub axle. I know from experience! lol.

It doesn't have to be specific wheel bearing grease. Most CV or high temp greases can be used. You usually get a little sachet of it in with new bearings, though I prefer to use a bit more tbh.

Hi Giles, Can't help with the charger, buts its a common engine swap. Have a look here, loads of info available. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?36117-The-Forced-Induction-20V-Thread

Thanks mate. Don't think I'll need that much, its just spot repairs around some of the mounting bolts for the heat shield etc. I've not touched the car in about a year mate. I feel terrible as its about an inch thick in dust in the garage! We moved into a period house in February which needed a little TLC. We've got the ground floor and garden left to do, though all bar the kitchen are being done in Spring. The kitchen won't be done for a couple of years yet, so as soon as the other rooms are finished I'll be back on the car. Had to prioritise for the house, and me and the missus have both got new daily drivers so spending on the Corrado has taken a back seat.

Haha, you should have been insistent! I'm assuming the dinitrol is the grey one, 447? Did you apply it with a shutz gun? I'm just wondering how you got a similar texture to factory underseal. I'm finally going to be getting mine back together as we'll be finished on the house after Spring.

The only problem you'll have with removing the top, is the headrest leg trim things as they are quite difficult to remove from the seat backs. Be careful on the tilt handles when removing them too.

Remove the seat from the runner, separate the back from the top by removing the bracket trim and securing pins, then you'll see the teeth that are holding the covers in place. Just peel them back gently with a flat trim tool or screwdriver and take it off. The bolsters then just lift off. Reverse to fit the new one, Job done. :thumbleft: