seanl82

Coolant temp should sit at constant 90 on the gauge if all is well. These older cars do tend to rise and fall a little though if sat in traffic or on the move. Just keep a eye on the mfa oil temp if you can. It'll give you a better idea of how hot the engine is running. If it starts creeping past 116 regularly I'd say something was amiss, especially at this time of year.

Always good to hear of yours Rob. It's a shame you're loosing the enthusiasm though, I guess this time of year always does that. Dark when you leave for work, and dark when you leave from work! Funding it around this time of year doesn't help either! It's finding the time as well. All those combined is why I know mine will be off the road longer than anticipated. It's disheartening looking at the state of some of it after seeing what some on here have done too, and how mint they look, but knowing mine will never be quite that good despite an awful lot of my hard work. Hey ho, it's the only active hobby I have so just need to remember that!

Had the odd half day over the past few weeks stripping the Underside. Rear axle, fuel tank, exhaust and all the other bits and pieces are off. Got loads of pics but can't seem to upload them with photobucket since I had to reinstall it on my phone. Had a few bits that were a bit of a mare. Mainly bolts from down pipe to cat, and brake Bias valve but all done now. Found a small 5p sized rust hole in the top corner where the filler neck is too. I'll cut it out and get a mobile welder to put some new metal in there. Exhaust heat Shields have been cleaned but I might get a few of em soda or vapour blasted as they're quite pitted with salt crystals by the look of it. I'll be ordering some epoxy paint after Xmas so I can start stripping the metal and get it painted. Although I think I'll just get it blasted cos I'm feeling lazy! Progress is slow tbh, and I'll be away with work quite a bit over the next year so not sure the car will make it out for quite some time.

Should be a bush under looking at this. http://www.realoem.me/Volkswagen/RDW/COR/1995/76/R/4/407/97010

Thats true, but prices have certainly increased over the last 18 months. The traders hiking prices have had an impact on the private seller too. Prices have increased across the market.

Think there are additional fuses above the fusebox that attach via black holders. These iirc can cause these issues if blown.

93 was a bit of a parts bin job on the interior. Some were old type some new.

Dubmeister have a good reputation and are Road legal mate.

Stu, if you have any spare afterward, I'm after a ball ended one (late), and if you also have it, the grommet it attaches to at the pedal end. Cheers Sean.

No, 288mm disks require different calipers, carriers and pads. The calipers have a different hose fitment too. It says further down in the ad they're 280mm diameter though. No Corrado came with 288mm disks as standard, so if they are then you should be ok to return them, as they're advertised as a Corrado fitment - which essentially they're not.

Think factory is -0.5 degrees but for a bit more "sporty" handling iirc -1 is as much as you need without going mad.

ZF is LHD only. You need the ones compatible with the TRW Rack. Also, PN for the steering knuckle/bearing housing is 1h0407255 (LH) & 256 (RH). Pretty sure they're obsolete though, and were incredibly pricey when they were available.

The camber is adjusted by the strut to the hub knuckle. The bolts just hold it in place so the straight ones are correct. You can get camber adjusting bolts but they're aftermarket.

Thanks mate, I did read it properly after I'd posted and it mentions what you say! Used without the thinners it'll go on to about 1/2 mm thick which should be plenty. Reading the reviews it's seriously hard wearing and is used for RNLI vehicles that bomb about on sand and low water, so I'm gonna go for it. I'd have to spend roughly the same for a dozen tins of hammerite anyway certainly worth it I reckon!

Here is a sale pic with what I left for the new owner No idea if had any work tbh mate. Maybe worth getting on an RR though. The cams are standard, but may well have had some other internal work and a remap?...........

Remove the handle with the door open. Its just a single screw in the jam to remove it (You'll see the thread for it on the handle itself in this pic). Beware, I can't remember which but one of the screws (LH or RH) is reverse thread. You'll see the two parts on the inside of the handle in the pic too, but my guess is one of them has snapped. Its quite common, and the stainless replacements for sale on here or on ebay are a worthwhile upgrade. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-G60-VR6-16V-Door-Handle-Defect-Repair-set-Door-Handle-NEW-/191501623961?fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item2c9662e299:m:m0t0BJNzuJtkpf-1xanItIw

How is the finish on the epoxy paint? Its hard to tell from your pictures, but I've been looking into what to do mine with. I've read a few good reviews of it so I've been looking here http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-epoxy-mastic/p404984/ I'm not trying to hide rust so like you I'll get all parts blasted first, but I'd like a good thick coat to give the metal a nice smooth finish and cover any pitting. Is the epoxy paint thick enough to do this, or do you think I'd be better off getting it powder coated or using hammerite? Anyone else got any thoughts too? Cheers!

May be an easy fix then if the de-cat was passed onto you? When I got it there was a de-cat in place. I swapped it out for a second hand cat and lambda I got from lilfuzzer but left the de-cat with attached lambda in the boot for the new owner. Was it passed onto you?

Close it fully to the correct position manually, then remove the motor from the mech. With power still to the motor, operate it to the park position. Turn off the ignition, put the motor back into the mech, then try again. :thumbleft:

Great car the mk4 RS, although sadly command mental prices and way out of the budget for most now. We're not VW snobs here and can appreciate a good car regardless of who made it, don't worry! The red one at £9k? Don't know the car, but thats very strong money. Don't be put off by mileage by the way. Many enthusiast owned cars with a bit higher mileage will be just as good and reliable as a very low mileage cars which simply haven't been used.

Hi Stephen, welcome to the forum! First of all, put us out of our misery, what is your current project then!? Its good that you've done your homework, as I'm sure you're aware, you'll need to be prepared to travel for the right car. In answer to your questions: 1. Worth seeing what the history is like obviously with any major work done to the engine. Unless its very high mileage, so long as the chains have been done then maybe worth checking compression, and leave it well alone for a while. There are some true experts in these cars around but depends where you are. Stealth Racing in the Midlands, or JMR on the South Coast. Give them a ring for rough prices as obviously again, depends how much work is required. 2. Standard suspension is now obsolete from VW, so you'd have to go aftermarket. There are plenty of struts around in standard form, but there were quite a variation throughout the years in spring and plate setup, so be careful what you get. Do your research and you should be ok, but the vast majority get well known lowering kits just to drop the car a small amount. It'll be your car though, and I'm sure extra kudos will go to you for trying to keep it standard. 3. There are a few excellent upholsterers around, I've only ever heard great things about MJ interiors who are up in Yorkshire, but again, worth doing a bit more research and getting recommendations dependant on where you are located. Good luck with your search, I hope you find what you're looking for! :thumbleft:

I love Malta too. Been there 4 times now although all with work, but always get out to the favoured haunts Valletta has to offer!

If you need a hand with any of it mate just give me a shout. I'm free most weekends after next w.end. :thumbleft:

What! After all you've just done to the underside too! I understand though mate. Its for the right reasons I suppose, and its not like you've only had it a short while. You've seen many come and go, and plenty to return as well........... An obvious dilemma as you say mate, and one I'm sure you won't make lightly. Aside from the few slight rust scabs, its an excellent car mate, and I'm sure would demand a decent price should you sell it complete.

Maybe £500 at a guess Rob. I bought a low mileage AAA engine and gearbox a couple of years back for £100, though the ABV is probably more desirable and would have increased in value now anyway. Coupled with the head work, and if you could photocopy or present receipts/evidence it may help. Why you selling it anyway, what have you got that we don't know about!? :norty: