seanl82

The light is for low level not temp unfortunately. Fingers crossed when you remove the old one its obvious its at fault. Best of luck mate!

Wow, the audacity of some people. Its discusting that someone can just drive up, hitch on and drive away. Utter scum bags but unless there is a positive spot whilst in transit, I doubt this'll ever be recovered. :x

Cracking work! Can't believe there chain cover bolts were almost all missing, apologies but I never even noticed! Great to see the work you're putting into it though, top work! :thumbleft:

Red N plate of unknown flavour around camels head, Plymouth at 07.20 this morning. Couldn't read anymore at the back as it was filthy lol! Almost forgot how great they look going down the road though! :thumbleft:

95 VR and close to 150k. No internal work in that time, just chains etc and the odd gasket/seal.

Strange, I spoke to Troy at VW fest and he said he wasn't doing that anymore due to weight......

Yeah front one located to the right of the front motor mount. It's a pain to get to, but possibly. It's at a right angle to the block and heat cycles cause the insulation to break down on the inner edge. Not too expensive and worth doing for peace of mind regardless.

Nope. It is surpisingly easy, just quite daunting the first time you do it. :thumbleft:

Remove the drive shafts from the gearbox end, 6 multi spline bolts and thats it. If you turn the wheels each side it'll give you a little bit more wiggle room to push the inner CV toward the wheel and get it off. Support the drive shaft with a bit of string or some cable ties as it could damage the outer CV if left hanging.

They fit but iirc you'll have to adapt/splice in a different connector for the window switches.

Forgot to mention but you've said about down pipe so doubt you'd forget to disconnect it! You can get away with disconnecting from downpipe to cat and its easiest to do. You'll be able to remove the downpipe from the manifold with the engine out and it'll give better access too.

Also, trouble with aftermarket inserts like that in the link, is the the cap has a cut out for the removal tool so these won't fit without modification.

55/56mm do fit, it depends where the measurements are taken from. 58mm is the outer diameter, 55/56mm is the size of the wheel centre cap insert that they clip into.

It's exactly the same as a mk3 Golf matrix. That was even used as an upgrade for Corrados originally as they were known to be a bit stronger, so if GSF list one for them, it'll fit your car. Helps widen the search pool for a good quality one too if you use mk3 Golf instead of Corrado.

Will you not need ECU, wiring, airbox and all other ancilliaries as well? Remove everything off the block being removed that attaches to the car (hoses, wiring, gear linkages on the GB etc...), and if you can, remove the front end as it'll be easier to hoist out. Using the lift points connect up the hoist with a balance bar, take a little weight, then undo the engine mount bolts and slowly raise the engine out. It'll probably need a little coaxing out to ensure you don't hit or trap anything, so a second pair of hands is usefull not its possible on your own mate.

Good luck with your search. I looked at an early Nugget Valver in Cornwall when I was first after a Corrado, unfortunately it was an absolute dog. The pics on ebay showed it from past shows and were nowhere near what its actual condition was. You may get lucky and find one, but Nuggets are pretty rare nowadays.

Gents, this is the procedure I've always used and been ok, although as the water is nearing 100 degrees and boiling (as its not under pressure with the cap removed), it will start bubbling up. The fans should kick in just before this has happened though (95 degrees stage 1 iirc?). Goldfinger, I'd imagine you cleared any air locks the first time round tbh mate. The level will only drop back down a little if you'd had any air locks in there or it was hot to begin with, otherwise it would remain relatively constant after cool down if you had no air in the system. Hope this helps and sorry for late reply, I've had no internet!.

Pretty much. You'll have to drill into the door inner panel or use existing holes for the actuator, and its a bit of trial and error by moving them about a little to ensure they're unlocking the door correctly, but its easy enough mate.

Top up with antifreeze/water, leave the cap off and run the engine up to temp by idling for 30 seconds, then revving to about 2.5k rpm, and whilst idling massage the hoses. When the water gets to 90, you should feel the bottom rad hose begin to get hot. Thats another one to check, as your thermostat could be stuck closed, but you'd quickly get overheating if thats happened. Once the water has passed 90 and your fans have started kicking in, turn off and wait for system to cool. Once cooled, top up coolant and you should be good to go.

Possibly, but removing the cap will make the coolant gush out anyway as its pressurised when working correctly. Pipes shouldn't be that hard though, and if you have a black expansion tank cap, I'd recommend replacing it with a modern blue one as they were known to lock up and not release pressure as they should. Have a look down the side of the expansion tank where the overflow is, as if its overpressurising, then the cap may be working correctly and releasing it down onto the chassis leg as its supposed to do. I'd probably get a sniff test done on your coolant too, as its common with Head Gasket failure for it to get the the point you're experiencing.

Its a pretty straightforward job actually. I've done a couple of cars a while back with the VClick kits off of ebay. The instructions are pretty good that come with it, you just need to identify a couple of permanent live feeds iirc.

It has come up here in the past, and based on what info I could find online, I generally set it to 1psi above standard for every inch in wheel diameter. I'm sure others have disagreed with it, but I was content with that. With lower profile tyres you'll want less movement in the sidewall so increasing the pressure seems the correct thing to do imo..........

The grille VR6 badges were all brushed aside from the 93? year models which had the red badge. The rear VR6 badges were chrome though, but thats the same across all model years iirc.

Pretty sure the BMC CDA was the only one to offer any real gains. There was a thread with a link to back to back dynos on standard paper, K&N panel, K&N cone, and BMC CDA. The cone actually reduced power, and the K&N panel was only marginally better than the paper filter, but the BMC CDA gave good power gains. I've had all of the above except the cone, and imo the standard airbox just dampens too much of the VR6 noise (although tbf I'm almost deaf in one ear). I love the BMC CDA, its dead quiet whilst cruising yet sounds incredible when giving it a hard right foot. That'd be my recommendation anyway.

Just hit the smilie above the reply box. :thumbleft: I think I changed the rocker gasket around November/December 2014 time. It should be in with the receipts I passed on? IIRC the leads were cheap aftermarket ones that were on when I got it. They seemed to be working fine and as mentioned previously, I didn't notice any tailing off at the top of the rev range, although a only got the revs up probably twice and the short blast I took it on when I went the long way around to the MOT station (It was literally 200 yards from where the car was kept when I was working on it!). As mentioned in my ad when I sold it, the plugs were Bosch super 4s which some have found a little temperamental on the VR judging by past posts, but they looked relatively new so I gave them a quick wire brush and replaced them. I'd get them both changed out if you suspect them as they're relatively inexpensive and should give you peace of mind mate.