seanl82

Fair enough, I can't remember exact capacity of the coolant system but I think its somewhere around 8L, with 10L for cars with A/C iirc. Usually 3L of coolant diluted to those ratios is more than sufficient for its anti-freeze properties in the UK, but whatever you're happy with go with that mate. The gearchange being cable, really doesn't make for a particularly good feeling selection. I think its the Corrados biggest downfall if I'm honest.

You won't need 10L of G13 coolant, just 2 x 1.5 litre bottles of it, and then topped up with distilled/de-ionised water. Agreed with the Mann filters too. Redline MT90 is good for gearbox oil, but unless you're having difficulty selecting gear, I wouldn't be overly concerned with doing it immediately.

Haha, not really I'm just sat at work on the computer and bored! I know enough, but there are far more knowledgeable people than me on here. Always happy to help where I can though. :thumbleft:

Its a bit funny with sizing etc, so photobucket/flickr as you say would be the best option Matt.

Hello again Matt, here we go. 1. Quite often pops up, anywhere from £250 - £750 depending on condition. You should be able to get a very respectable set for around £400. Those after the upper end of the price range I just mentioned rarely sell very quickly, as you can get a decent set of electric leather recaros for under a grand (a much rarer factory option). 2. I think the factory mats are now obsolete, but there are decent reproduction ones on ebay, although they often don't have the Corrado script embossed like the factory ones. 3. Centre trim is prone to breaking. Have a look in the suppliers forum (I think) and look for daves16v centre tunnel bracket. He can supply everything you need to fix it for a small cost, including directions on how to do it. Alternatively, make up something yourself without too much fuss. 4. Yep, sounds like its over adjusted. When you remove the centre tunnel to fix that, just loosen it off a little until you're happy. 5. Another factory option, and not many have them nowadays. Another expensive part if you "fancy" it. 6. Switches run very hot due to excess current, so are prone to becoming brittle and breaking, but also catching fire! Have a look in the wiki section at the inline fuse mod to prevent fires, and again in the suppliers forum for a good chinese repro that someone (I forget who) has sourced and is offering. Alternatively, the wiki has a guide to repair if you fancy taking it apart, or just get a good second hand one from a breaker or ebay. Hope this helps! :thumbleft:

Hi Matt, I'll try to answer some of your questions, but may be worth putting a couple of photos up of your engine bay and the wiring, so we can advise if its normal mate. First thing, clutch is hydraulic. Its fed off of the same reservoir as the brakes and should be located on the drivers side bulkhead attached to the servo. Your manual may show diagrams from a left hand drive car so may account for a few inaccuracies. There are a few bare wires around the bay to be honest. Most are single wires that go to oil and water temperature and pressure sensors. Wrapping them in loom tape will help, as the original stuff will have likely just lost its stickiness and begun to unravel. Connectors - they're also probably 20 odd years old now, so its likely that some may have become brittle especially on a higher mileage engine like yours, where it has gone through quite a few heat cycles! It shouldn't be too difficult to source replacements though so I wouldn't be too concerned, and doesn't automatically point to neglect.

Welcome Matt, plenty of helpful people on here in case you have any questions. Look forward to seeing some pics and hearing your plans. :)

Speedo binnicle is only 4 screws Chuggs, and you should be able to shine a torch down to the right as you look at it, and see if anything is amiss. Just be careful with the screw covers at the bottom of the binnicle.

Heater only working on 4 is also a sign of a failed blower resistor. If you have a search in the wiki I think there is a guide on replacing it, and its pretty cheap too.

Wow, you're a bundle of joy aren't you!

Its not a snag with what you've put up mate, its the work security crap that blocks anything on any image hosting site from being shown. There are very few pics I can see on here unfortunately. I'll check it out on the ipad when I next get wifi. :thumbleft: Edit: That other one works! looks a cracker mate!

Not a Honda Jizz then.......... :lol:

The photos are blocked for me, so I don't know what you've done Jamie! I'm assuming its a rear wheel drive German sports car............

Utter bargain that, someone should bite his hand off!

Fingers crossed you've finally cured the leaks Rob! Look forward to seeing the end results of all your hard work mate. :thumbleft:

So what part does the control unit that sits behind the dash play then? The collar plugs into the control unit, then another cable goes from the control unit to the ECU.

You should be able to get your hand up if you drop the drivers side under dash trays. Alternatively if you remove the clock surround you may be able to see it with a torch, and get your hand in to at least check. Its a bit of a faff, but do-able.

There is also an immobiliser "box" type thing that sits next to the spoiler control module, up behind the drivers side dash. Worth checking the two plugs into that are pushed home as well mate.

Should be beside the battery, behind the headlight. The resistor is bolted to the inner wing, and the yellow connectors attached to that.

Standard and standard. Seats have had replacement bolsters (drivers upper and lower), leather replaced where required and all have been re-coloured. Steering wheel will be re-coloured shortly, but is in decent knick.

I think it sounds like ChrisL's old car. Was it a Blackberry coloured one? If so, it sold quite a long time ago. You honestly get what you pay for, and what you are looking for would probably cost between 5-7k I'd imagine. There are a few exceptions though, and you may find a peach for a bit under. Prices seem to be firmly on the rise at the moment though, so I wouldn't hold out too long.

Be very careful when trying to close it! Watch the exterior panel doesn't rise as its being slid forward, or else you'll scratch it all as it raises up when the mechanism is broken!

Dymo all the way. They are the Rolls Royce of Label machines! Tons of em at various price ranges too Chris.

That one above is passenger side as the bleed nipple goes to the top.

That one above is a 280mm caliper. The 288s have a triangular cut out at the top unlike the rectangular(ish) one as above. Both types are marked either Lucus or Girling 54, as that is the Manufacturer and piston size iirc.