seanl82

The cheap ones on ebay will be perfectly fine, quite a few on here have replaced them with ones bought from ebay.

There was someone on here (I think it was this forum) that did it a couple of years ago with a couple of mates. They did it in a 5 series as it provided practicality and comfort. I think the rally specified it had to be all in and roadworthy etc for under a grand too, so it was trying to find something as bulletproof as that for the money.

VR6 into a mk2 has been done to death I agree, but I'm pretty sure its far less common in a mk1. I may be wrong but I'm pretty sure you'd be seriously restricted for space in there.

I'm sure its been done, but I'd guess its a huge amount of hassle getting a vr6 into such a small bay. Its the torque you'll need to pull a caravan, so turbo would be perfectly fine. Turbo diesel would be better though............

The one that immediately springs to mind and probably the only likely lump to comfortably fit is the 1.8 20vT. Go for the 225bhp out of the S3/TT/LCR and you'll be well. I'd be more concerned about weight though, not sure it'd be adviseable or even legal to tow a caravan with a mk1, especially a cab.

You shouldn't need to drain too much to be fair as the stat is quite high up in the system. As previously suggested, stat can be tested using a pan of water brought to the boil. Should open up at 87 degrees or there abouts. They are often completely goosed though so its obvious upon removal that its had it.

I find the standard clips in the picure much better than jubilee clips to be honest. I've never known them leak provided they are fitted correctly, whereas Jubilee clips leak quite often, and are far more likely to damage the rubber hoses by cutting into them if overtightened.

Grey were still available this time last year. VAGCAT lists all 3 colour part numbers, but doesn't specify which is which! I took a punt and got grey, then coloured them beige with my colouring kit.

All the best for your future endeavours Andi, thank you for your dedication to keeping such a great forum running. Welcome to your successor also!

Good info, thanks for posting. I do think your a little late though..................

Wendy, have a look in the suppliers forum, I think there is someone reproducing exact replicas of the original dealer plates, so if you know which dealer originally sold your car, you could add those (and tax disk holder but don't think you'll really need it any more) to give it the authentic brand new look!

As you say Jim they're simply locating dowels, so as long as you are confident of getting a good seal, removing them should be fine mate.

I'd be up for 1 of each too Rog, will be down around New Year so I can collect em from you then mate! :thumbleft:

Ask around for someone with a multimeter to check the output that the alternator is providing first. I'd do that before spending money on anything, just to ensure it is that at fault. Definitely check your own alternator for part number too, as if its been changed, who knows what it has been changed with, especially if it was fitted at an independant garage.

65 amp should be sufficient for a 16v, as its the cold cranking amps that make the difference. VR6 requires much higher CCA which is why the 90A is fitted, and 120A for cars with A/C. It depends on the load at the time, but 65A should be more than sufficient even for night running with everything switched on. I'd change the regulator first as already suggested, and see how you get on mate.

As said it depends how far you want to go with modification, but my signature below details some of the cost effective and common things you can easily replace/upgrade. Have a look in the wiki section too, as there are plenty of guides to common faults and failures, and how to fix them. Worth trawling through a few peoples members gallery too, as you can see what people have done and if you like the look of things. Welcome to the forum anyway!!!

I believe it has, and iirc it was thought best to seek alternatives as the 3D plastic material they use is very brittle compared to most other plastics used for automotive trim, and the prongs/arms would likely snap the first time it was used to attach or remove it from the grille.

Fair enough, I can't remember exact capacity of the coolant system but I think its somewhere around 8L, with 10L for cars with A/C iirc. Usually 3L of coolant diluted to those ratios is more than sufficient for its anti-freeze properties in the UK, but whatever you're happy with go with that mate. The gearchange being cable, really doesn't make for a particularly good feeling selection. I think its the Corrados biggest downfall if I'm honest.

You won't need 10L of G13 coolant, just 2 x 1.5 litre bottles of it, and then topped up with distilled/de-ionised water. Agreed with the Mann filters too. Redline MT90 is good for gearbox oil, but unless you're having difficulty selecting gear, I wouldn't be overly concerned with doing it immediately.

Haha, not really I'm just sat at work on the computer and bored! I know enough, but there are far more knowledgeable people than me on here. Always happy to help where I can though. :thumbleft:

Its a bit funny with sizing etc, so photobucket/flickr as you say would be the best option Matt.

Hello again Matt, here we go. 1. Quite often pops up, anywhere from £250 - £750 depending on condition. You should be able to get a very respectable set for around £400. Those after the upper end of the price range I just mentioned rarely sell very quickly, as you can get a decent set of electric leather recaros for under a grand (a much rarer factory option). 2. I think the factory mats are now obsolete, but there are decent reproduction ones on ebay, although they often don't have the Corrado script embossed like the factory ones. 3. Centre trim is prone to breaking. Have a look in the suppliers forum (I think) and look for daves16v centre tunnel bracket. He can supply everything you need to fix it for a small cost, including directions on how to do it. Alternatively, make up something yourself without too much fuss. 4. Yep, sounds like its over adjusted. When you remove the centre tunnel to fix that, just loosen it off a little until you're happy. 5. Another factory option, and not many have them nowadays. Another expensive part if you "fancy" it. 6. Switches run very hot due to excess current, so are prone to becoming brittle and breaking, but also catching fire! Have a look in the wiki section at the inline fuse mod to prevent fires, and again in the suppliers forum for a good chinese repro that someone (I forget who) has sourced and is offering. Alternatively, the wiki has a guide to repair if you fancy taking it apart, or just get a good second hand one from a breaker or ebay. Hope this helps! :thumbleft:

Hi Matt, I'll try to answer some of your questions, but may be worth putting a couple of photos up of your engine bay and the wiring, so we can advise if its normal mate. First thing, clutch is hydraulic. Its fed off of the same reservoir as the brakes and should be located on the drivers side bulkhead attached to the servo. Your manual may show diagrams from a left hand drive car so may account for a few inaccuracies. There are a few bare wires around the bay to be honest. Most are single wires that go to oil and water temperature and pressure sensors. Wrapping them in loom tape will help, as the original stuff will have likely just lost its stickiness and begun to unravel. Connectors - they're also probably 20 odd years old now, so its likely that some may have become brittle especially on a higher mileage engine like yours, where it has gone through quite a few heat cycles! It shouldn't be too difficult to source replacements though so I wouldn't be too concerned, and doesn't automatically point to neglect.

Welcome Matt, plenty of helpful people on here in case you have any questions. Look forward to seeing some pics and hearing your plans. :)

Speedo binnicle is only 4 screws Chuggs, and you should be able to shine a torch down to the right as you look at it, and see if anything is amiss. Just be careful with the screw covers at the bottom of the binnicle.