seanl82

Throttle Position Sensor. Bonnet earth cable won't cause any problems at all, but check the battery earth that bolts directly to the chassis leg next to it. There are also earth points around the starter motor, and on the right hand side of the block as you look at it. If you can remove them all, wire brush the terminals and studs/bolts and reassemble, checking the cabling is intact etc.

Tried that, just bent the screwdriver! Lol Inner drive shaft bolts have been off last year so shouldn't present too much of a problem with a bit of torque hopefully.

The outer CV is out thankfully. Came out pretty easily once the wheel was on, car was back on the ground and I could get the hub nut off. The problem was that the CV and shaft separated whilst I was moving it around. I've removed the outer CV, but the shaft is obviously loose and free to rotate. I know if I try to remove the inner bolts the shaft will just turn (just thought, I suppose I could put it in gear to stop this), but I've ordered an Impact wrench to get them off without having to keep it from rotating. It was easy on the 4 post lift where I could get under it whilst it was on the platform, loosen a couple of the bolts, lift it up and rotate the drive shaft, drop it down and loosen the rest. The impact wrench is a good investment for when I finally get round to the suspension anyway, as I had a bit of a mare trying to remove the top nut last time although I *******ised an old long socket so I could rotate it with an adjustable whilst using an allen key down the centre to keep the shock from rotating. Either way, the impact wrench makes life a whole lot easier!

Ah fair enough, wasn't aware of that. :thumbleft:

Thanks Daren! I did think of you for the impact wrench, but thought you'd probably need it for work anyway and its a very handy tool to have regardless. Once this is done it should be ready for MOT again. Got a million jobs I want to do but its finding the time to take if off the road this year unfortunately, which is counter productive I realise as its underside work I want to do! I literally have a couple of dust covers to get for the suspension to go on that I've had for a year, or wait until late summer and change it when I want to do the rest of the underside and do it all in one go................

Apologies mate, I thought I remembered it being painted outside the booth, didn't mean to scare you! I'd go with Darens suggestion then, or try to get it into dry storage for a little while to give any moisture time to evaporate. Hope you get it sorted mate!

Get it checked out by a proper paint shop Matt. Hate to say it, but it looks like moisture under the paint which may only be showing now there is a lot of moisture in the air especially under a cover which may be causing additional humidity.

You may be there for a while if you read the whole thread! Lots done though tbh, and I've tried to do things properly but on a reasonable budget rather than at all costs. How it looks now is from page 72 onwards, although I've managed to scuff off a 5p size of paint on the rear bumper parking it it the garage which I rented to ironically keep it preserved for the last year. Slight update in that I managed to get the N/S track rod end off nice and easy with the help of a blow torch for a minute or so, but I'm waiting on the arrival of an electric impact wrench to undo the inner drive shaft bolts as I trashed the outer CV (retaining circlips) whilst changing the balljoints. In my infinite wisdom, I thought replacing the entire shaft with inner and outer CVs would be easier. In hindsight, not such a great idea. The joys of driveway mechanics aren't all they're cracked up to be, I don't think I appreciated just how good I had it with the ramp!!! lol. Oh, and I just watched the Wheeler Dealer episode of the Corrado again to help me along! lol

Well done Rob, looking good under there. Got to admit, I'm itching to do the underside of mine but have to try and resist for the time being! May do what you did though and start getting the odd few bits each month to spread out the cost.

Have a look on eBay for EL panel. You can get a 12v kit in any colour and size you wish, and just cut it to shape and splice or connect it into you existing loom. That should do the trick!

The sleeves or nuts, are supposed to be captive in the radiator, so its a good job it needs replacing anyway as you'll likely end up with a fair old leak there mate. Its your call on the radiator though. I know its much cheaper so may be worth taking a punt on, but the Hella rad fits and lines up with everything perfectly. Obviously with ECP if it doesn't you should be able to take it back for a full refund, but its a lot of time and hassle if it doesn't.

MrInjector can refurbish your set, they'll do before and after flow tests, paint them and provide new seals for around £75 iirc but give them a call. You can get some gasket paper for the throttle body gasket Ron. Just trace out your old one onto the paper then cut it yourself. Easy and cheap to do if you can find somewhere local to buy it and match the thickness of your old one. (Obviously go slightly larger as the old one will have compressed a fair bit over time).

Santa hat still up........ :)

There should be a bracket that they sould slot into using the slots you can see at the top of the relay pictured mate. Its fiddly at the best of times so I've no idea how much a pain in the arse it is with aircon!

Most of em on ebay are the early style. This is the cheapest I've found and fitted one to the aqua blue VR I sold at the beginning of last year. Just need another for mine now but its down on my priority list at the moment! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221088124536?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thanks Rob, me too but I reckon I may have to cut it off. Gonna try a bit of heat tomorrow and see how that works.........

No worries, I was literally just about to PM you but it's no bother mate.

Well I don't have access to the lift and indoor work space I used to have, do its all driveway mechanics which means at this time of year, enthusiasm and ability to do the jobs is even more at a premium. I've also got to use it for work for the next few months so I won't be able to undertake the bigger jobs I'd like to do. Hopefully make some progress though, just not as much as I would have hoped.

Its never easy Mic! Yeah aside from a few weeks away the second half of the year, Its going to be relatively quiet until May. The ship is pretty much being mothballed from April so I'm moving onto another after that. Hoping to make a few shows this year though. :)

Started the ball joints and track rod ends yesterday but run into a few snags. First off it was as I originally suspected and the old ones seemed perfectly fine. Drop links though were a little worse for wear so I've replaced them. The steering rack boots had started cracking so I ordered a pair of them which should arrive today, but I can't get the bloody n/s rod end off. The locking nut is free but the end is stuck fast. O/S one came off really easily, but have snags that side too. I've managed to destroy the outer CV joint whilst pulling the knuckle about, so just ordered a whole new drive shaft incl inner & outer CVs from JR for £50 delivered, which is excellent value but an expense I could have done without. Starter motor is sticking a bit too so there's another one which will need sorting before long. Never goes smoothly does it!

Top work Rob, you can't be far off being finished now though surely? Once the underside is complete its got to be just the nightly little things left to do which are hopefully inexpensive and easy enough???

Looks cracking even with the fast cut + which you usually get quite a bit of marring with! Wait til you see it after the ultrafina if you're staying with 3M products! :thumbleft:

I just renewed mine with Adrian Flux. I've had a few policies with them over the years and always found them good, including sorting me out when I had a non fault accident in 2012. I've just got a comprehensive 5k limited SDP + commuting policy with a £125 excess, windscreen, legal, hire car, audio, key, breakdown incl homestart and Euro for £237.19. It's an additional £15 for agreed value which I'll probably do though for peace of mind, but I'm still pretty pleased with it. Last year with them was £198 but 4k limited, no commute and no breakdown so I can handle that additional cost as I'll need the car for work for a couple of months this year.

I had it before on my old mk3 Golf Jim. I couldn't work it out for a while as I couldn't replicate the ticking I was getting at speed, but it was where I'd had the tyres replaced and the weights were doing exactly that and very very slightly catching the caliper. That was with standard 15" wheels on the standard 288mm brakes so it's not just you don't worry! Lol.

Thats the one, there should be teeth on it that mesh with teeth on a bracket to create the tension. If the teeth are knackered its possible the bolt is slipping back down a bit. Just a thought.