J.C

Hi I've been having a misfire on my VR6 since I got it a few months ago, I think I've found the problem, one of the first things I did was to swap the coilpack, then the camsensor with my golf VR6 which was running sweet, neither made any difference so I left them in their new vehicles. today I was playing with it (as usual!!!!) and unpluged the camsensor and there was no change, checked supply voltage to sensor(OK), checked continuity from sensor to ECU(OK) checked for output whilst engine running, was outputting supply voltage (constantly) can't wait to get a new sensor tomorrow and see what this baby will do(Schimmel 263 fitted but not remapped(yet)) steve P.s should I phone up the Golfs new owner to tell him the camsensor on his new car is probably faulty??

Thanks Southie Looks like that's what I'm going to have to do next

Sorry for the thread revival but did you find out what the problem was, so far I've tried good coil from Golf vr6 cam sensor from golf MAF from golf plugs leads check blue thermostat refurbed injectors checked chain timing replaced lifters And probably a lot more that I can't remember cheers Steve

So the fault was the ignition switch got one from GFS I'll keep the original one in the car(it works independently from the ignition barrel) so if the GFS ****s itself, I can just plug in the old one and get home. Also regarding how to remove the screw which holds the switch in place, I purposely broke mine by using a screwdriver to remove the switch I found that using a 2.5mm hex screw(commonly found in RC cars) along with a ball tipped allen key gives just enough deflection to tighten the screw without any modifications

thanks for the replies looks like a trip to GFS to pick up a switch, I know I should get genuine VAG but I need the car this weekend What are the chances the local stealer would have one????

Hi all, the car was running literally 1/2 hour before!!! while sorting out the new oil pressure guage I may have shorted the radio supply(Brown/red wire) upshot is now the car wont start WTF, it doesn't make sense, I've no supply from the ignition switch (conceivable that the switch burnt out with the short) so I jumped it from the battery feed to the radio (which would supply any circuits after the switch) but still no start, Engine turns over but doesn't fire, I've jumped the fuel pump relay, jumped the ECU relay, still no luck conclusion I need a new ignition switch (I knew it was on the way out from my previous recorded voltage readings) then diagnose a possible crankshaft sensor/immobiliser/Fuel pump/coil pack/ECU/ or a 100 or 1 things it could be, Question to those who know a thing or two about ****, If the problem was in the transponder in the key not being recognised by the ECU, would the car turn over (on starter motor) at all or would it not or would it start then cut out like (I've read) if the immobiliser was activated I'm having a sexy finger day!!!!

I'll have a pair or two depending on quality and price

Done and good luck

That's one serious 4 year bump!!!!!

Located problem to a broken anti roll bar link (drivers side) when going around RH corner, it would try and do its job but because the link was broken it move up against the outside CV joint, causing the noise I've tried to up load the photo but doesn't want to play ball I plan to post a video of the noise on youtube for future reference, I'll post the link when I've done it

I didn't detect any play in the wheel bearings the noise is more of a slow loud knock compared to a frequency of a driveshaft/wheel bearing at a given speed to give you an example when it first happened I looked back to see what I'd run over, expecting to see a wheel trim or a part of my cars bouncing down the road to sumerise It happens when moderate (and faster) speed and easier to happen when cornering right, seems to be linked to cornering g force I can turn full lock and as long as I drive slow, no problem reverse, no problem Wheel bearings and cv's, pretty sure it's the wrong frequency to be one of these, thanks for all the replies

thanks Rob, How much movement is too much? is there a way of getting a jack under the engine and seeing the movement in an up and down plane ---------- Post added at 9:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:25 PM ---------- Didn't know driveshaft had weights, please explain

thanks Rob, How much movement is too much? is there a way of getting a jack under the engine and seeing the movement in an up and down plane

Thanks Jim, but not a cv joint, they're new plus the noise is VERY bad and it happens when there is a weight shift not just a steering angle (I can corner tightly slowly but if at speed it feels like the engines shifted and the cv bolts are hitting the subframe(that kind of severity))

On the way home today I was going round a small roundabout and there was this horrible knocking graunching noise coming from the area in front of my feet I limped to Tescos and checked the engine, I reckon it 's a gearbox/engine mount, It does it mainly going around right hand corners, ok when you accelerate in a straight line, not so easy to get it to happen around LH corners Rocking the engine seems to have a bit of side to side movement, but I sold my Golf VR6 yesterday so I got nothing to compare it to, what's the best method for checking mounts? Steve

OK IT WAS ME!!!! I thought it would be a good project for the next 15 months and an awsome car to own in Australia

Hi all I'm thinking of going the R32 route and was wondering how it compares to the stock 2.9 lump in regards to fuel effiency, I know you don't buy a (any)VR6 for it's effiency, I guess I'm hoping they will be around the same, if anyone has real world experience of the two, that would be great cheers Steve

+1, the glass is just slightly different shape, not noticeable unless you look very hard

I'll have it Where are you located?

I'll grab one please, Steve

Fantastic job Sean, You've turned a pigs ear into a silk purse, you've inspired me to do some detailing on mine how hard was it to get the headlining out? Also re. paintwork, it's not completely neccasary to take the glass out, you can feed nylon rope under the seal so it lifts the rubber off the body, of course if you see or suspect rust the windows out, also you can save money by prepping it yourself and then getting a bodyshop to do final prep and "gun" on the paint, 3rd/4th year appretices are good source of cheap skilled(if inexperienced) labour, I've got a mate who owns a bodyshop in Luton(where I'm currently prepping my old mans TR4 shell), if your interested I can see what he can do. keep up the good work Steve p.s did you find out whether it's a storm or not?

Why wouldn't you???????

2nd dibs on these if sale to easypops falls through

Hi to all the people I (we) met today, Thanks John for the expert advice, I'll be giving you a call, Chris, Have you stopped cleaning you car yet???? Nick, loved you dash, Let me know when I can pick up the dash and what do you drink? and lastly "thank you" to everyone who organised the stand, Steve

Just a reminder from a few pages back, I presume this is still correct?