J.C

the one I've got has the sender, hoses, wiring, top plate and seal, only missing big threaded ring

Yeah I've got one in the garage, I'll hunt it out tomorrow, Where are you?

Got full VCDS lite today, checked idle trims were 0.6% and 0.8% Partial trims were 0.0% but I havent run it much since last battery disconnection Missfire count was zero all round BUT the end box says it's "disabled" do I need to "enable" this and if so how?

I bet your excited to get your baby fired up It's got to work as it's basically all new!!!

lol

no worries, you learn a new thing everyday

I'm sorry to hear this, old ABV engines should be cherished, however saying that , if you do scrap it can you sell me the rocker cover with engine number sticker, I've got a 24v which I'd like to disguise as a 12V to get into Australia

I know when I connected my fuel lines (to the fuel rail) they naturally connect the wrong way round, the right way round they cross over each other hope this helps

great news enjoy!!!!

I've just looked at the Bentley manual, known to not be 100% correct for our UK cars. but here goes, T42/21, blue on car side, brown/grey on engine side, goes to the Intake Air Temp. sensor (IAT) T42/22, blue on car side, Blue on engine side(I think), goes to the engine coolant temp. sensor (ECT)

no, that is the control amp for the coil, basic knowledge of how a coil sysytem creates a spark (I think) is needed, A spark is created when the energy stored in the primary winding of the coil is reversed by switching off the supply to the coil, this in return causes the secondary coil to produce voltage (scale is proportionate to primary and secondary windings ratio) which then gets distributed to the plugs by the distributer, It's no good just testing voltage with ignition on or cranking, you ned to find out if the coil is receiving the "off" pulse from the ECU via the amp module

did you test the voltage to the coil from both terminals or from + terminal to earth, as I think it's the negative which gets switched, Have you checked continuity between all the components

Kev, I've got a cheapy ebay item, I've tracked my problem to a dodgy connection to the ECU, I'm checking out the best (cheapest) way of getting full VCDS features

Kev, I'm not sure, it's just how the previouse guy did it so I havent looked into it, Re. when people say the throttle body "beeps", mine makes a high pitch faint whine, definatly no beeping, I also have trouble with controller not responding (VCDS) and a lumpy (slight missfire) idle, any more info would be great, Whilst on the subject, is it normal for the timing to jump around (mostly at idle), I goes from values like -8 to -17, I've been thinking this is why my idle is lumpy but cannot find the cause of why the ECU is adjusting the timing. I've been presuming that if you disconnect varios sensors (MAF, Lambdas) it would then failsafe to a base tuning map I've disconnected the Lambdas and MAf/AIT and there has been no change in the uneveness at idle I'm sure it's not the usual "VR6 rough idle" you hear about, it's like a intermittent missfire. if someone could check their timing at idle and record the values, that would be a great help

first, check every fuse I've got the coilpack version but looking at the wiring diagram check continuity between the ECU (T68/8) and ignition coil output power module (T3d/2) wiggle the wires on the big 42 pin round plug, disconnect and re connect shame you're not nearer

Looks like mine has both joined up together!!!

After spending a few days last week tidying up the wiring in the engine bay, first I tried to connect all the wires to the engine via a 66pin round plug from RScomponents, got 3/4 of the way through it and realised it was just too tight given that the thicker wiring needed to be branched out to 2,3 or even 4 pins so as to not overload an individual pin, Then it dawned on me that if I ever was to remove the engine, the ECU plug is readilly accesasable anyway, but what I did find out was that when I was chopping out all the unneccesary wiring and plugs was that the wire supplying 12Volts to the coil pack was only .5mm and this had to be connected (soldered and the heatshrinked) to the factory 2.5mm wiring, Now when I had my car on the rolling road before, there was a definate tailoff of power at 5000rpm, and I thought I'd test how much voltage drop I get when the coil is supplied by the thinner cable, The result was quite shocking but understandable, At 5000rpm the voltage at the coil pack was a shade under 11 Volts,(10.96V) so i wired a relay into the circuit using the thin .5mm wire as the trigger wire and using a supply straight from the battery, Tested it again and now the coil pack recieves nearly 14Volts, driving it seems to rev quicker at the top of the rev range, but it could be just imagining it, But there is a reason why heavy duty wire is used, NOT so it doesn't burn out (look at the thickness of the element in a 30Amp fuse) it,s because of Voltage drop To calculate voltage drop in a copper wire, use the following formula: Volts= Length x Current x 0.017 --------------------------------- Area Volts= Voltage drop. Length= Total Length of wire in metres (including any earth return wire). Current= Current (amps) through wire. Area= Cross sectional area of copper in square millimetres. Notes: • This formula only applies to copper at 25°C, voltage drop increases with wire temperature, at approx 0.4% per °C. • 0.017- This figure only applies to copper. • Area is in square millimetres of copper, there can be confusion on how cable size is rated, with some manufacturers stating wire diameter rather than area sorry for the long winded post but with all this re-wiring going on when converting to 24V I thought it was relevant

here's some info you could find helpful http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/management/motronicvr6aba.html http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?5797918-Mk4-AFP-VR6-swap-into-CE2-MK2&p=78729637 Got a great 24v motronic pinout diagram 1/3rd down the page I'm having a look at the Bently wiring diagram at the moment, just to confirm, it's a yellow/black and not a black/yellow wire (first colour being the thickest)

Can't remember seeing it on my conversion, I'll try and have a look tomorrow to see where it goes

It's been a while since us 24V boys posted, so I thought I'd give you an update The remap at AMD was no better so I sent back my ECU to get reverted back to stock and recieved my money back minuss £75 for rolling road costs, been playing around with the intake ductng, like that now, soldered 22 ohm resistors into the post cat o2 sensor wiring to mimic the heaters, soldered 150ohm (I think) to mimic the SAIV relay and valve and one other which I cant remember upshot is I've got 4 codes 2 of which are can bus errors for ABS and cluster, nothing I can do about that, and 2 codes for post cat sensors, no signal, I've got a circuit worket out which will simulate these sensors and the parts come to around £15, will get around to doing it sometime. Anyway with these codes I think for the first time the engine is performing without any restriction and it flies, so much so I've had to fit 288mm brakes and have ordered 35/40mm drop suspension kit, I've ordered a 63 way connector from RS to neaten up the wiring in the engine bay, one day I'll get uploading photos sorted out on this forum so you can see what I waffle on about [ATTACH=CONFIG]75935[/ATTACH]

Where are you as I've got a VR box in my garage, Had no problems when it was in my car 95 VR6 I'm in St.Albans Hertfordshire If you want it, how does £50 sound? DOH!!!, just seen you are in Norfolk, anyway if you can arrange a courior, it's doable

Sent you a text with photo, Bobby

Hi, I have a pair of VR6 front calipers, brackets, hoses and pads (a bit of life left in them)for sale, Looking for £25 the lot, Work well, no issues, Just a bit dirty, I've just upgraded to 288mm discs Sorry can't post pics as I'm still trying to sort that out, however PM me your mobile number and I can text you a photo, Pick up from St.Albans, Herts Steve

Thanks for the reply, It has made a difference even with original bulbs, On the way home from the school pickup I could see the reflection in other cars Re. dim dip, Mine doesn't work at the moment as I've got the new headlight switch which doesn't have the required output which is on when side lights and ignition are on but off when ignition is off, However I have simulated the output and YES, dim dip will work, Upgraded headlight looms place their relay downstream of the point at which the feed from the dim dip resistor joins the dip beam circuit, this feeds voltage(reduced due to resistor) to the relay coil, causing the relay to energise, This modification places the relay upstream of the dim dip resistor connection, meaning the dim dip resistor just feeds voltage to the secondary side of the relay contacts, therefore not effecting the relay (coil)

Thanks for the reply, I believe you are right about the air con relay, but just in case I thought I'd leave that alone, plus i'm pretty sure I'm not going to be in Australia driving my corrado in 40 degree heat thinking "geeez I wish I could wash my headlights":cool: I have a bad habit of not thinking in layman or semi layman terms, to me a fuse box is just a box of electrical pathways to play with. I wish I could sort out posting photos as it's not hard to do, There is a possibility of a (nearly) plug and play loom, I've found every connector at the back of the fusebox EXCEPT "B" the one you use:bonk: