J.C

Lovely car, Not sure oil would be the cause of the overheating check The cooling flap bellows is functioning, located under right hand cylinders, Common fault Check the firewall board hasn't detatched and is being sucked up against the rear of the fan housing, happened to me fan belt not slipping the rubber seal around the engine is intact, it separates the "hot" bottom of the engine from the "cool" top half timing too far advanced

I'm not sure if this is appropriate to post here, But I'm pretty chuffed with the result and as the nights are closing in, this may help people who havent done headlight mod yet http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=83274&p=991615#post991615

I've been doing some research on the dim headlight problem, I know you can get looms which work BUT being a cheapskate and having a bit of time on my hands, I looked into it, Now it's generally been said that it's the length of the wiring which cause the voltage drop but generally it's the switches which cause a drop in voltage, this was my presumption and I carried out the mod and THEN did some measurements (which I will reveal later) So if you believe the wiring doesn't cause most of the voltage drop, then why modify the wiring from the fusebox to the lights, so I kept that standard, So I presumed the 2 switches (Headlight and full beam) were the cause of the Voltage drop, I studied the wiring diagram and decided it would be nice to install a relay on the fusebox for the lights, the available ones were relay position 1, 5 & 7, Now I'm planning a mkiv climatronic aircon install so position 1 (Aircon relay) was ruled out, position 5, (Coolant buzzer relay ) couldn't handle the current the lights take, So it left relay position 7 (Headlight washer relay) I ordered 2 relays off ebay for less than £5 delivered, I ordered 2 to keep a spare in the car, So now to the wiring, I cut the yellow wire from the headlight switch (via full beam switch) 20cm from Connector J/3, I then soldered(you can crimp if you've got a good set of crimpers) a female spade connector onto the end from J/3 and then covered in heatshrink, this goes to terminal B/6 The yellow wire from the switch(s)gets a small female spade connector, heatshrink sleaving, this goes to B/1 Next you need to get a negative to terminal B/4, I did this by using a 10cm piece of wire from an old loom I had lying around, The reused connector "locks" into place in terminal C/3 and then a small female spade connector to B/4. To supply battry voltage to the relay I made up a 30cm long heavy duty cable (from old loom again) and soldered female spade connectors on each end, this wire goes from B/5 to Y/2, someone had previously used Y/2, so I relocated that wire to a spare battery voltage terminal (big red plug with 4 small male spades in it, next to connector J, The relays haven't turned up yet but that didn't stop me from trying it out, first I connected a jumper wire between relay pins 2 & 5, this in effect reconnected the (cut) yellow wire, I measured this (Jumper wire) voltage as 11.02V with lights on (engine off) The voltage at the headlights was 10.50V, so the wiring from the fusebox to the lights creates a 0.5 Volt drop, Battery voltage at fusebox is 12.50V, so the 2 switches cause a voltage drop of 1.50V. next I connected the jumper wire between relay pins 2 & 4, this simulates the relay contacts being closed, this Voltage was 12.50. With the engine running, battery voltage 13.8V old system voltage at headlight, 11.10V new system (relay simulated) voltage at headlight, 12.65V I've gained over 1.5V but still losing 1.15V so it's not as good as the loom, But it is cheaper Relays should be here tomorrow, and I'll simulate the relay tonight when it's dark, I've got photos but having trouble uploading them on here Thanks for taking the time to read. Steve

Hi I'm looking at getting some new shocks for my VR6 as mine are leaking, I'm not looking for anything too sporty, just want to try it like VW intended it to be (I must be getting old!!!), I've seen these KYB on ebay cheap, any opinions? http://www.kyb-europe.com/shocks-excel-g.html I've done a bit of research and like a lot of the shock manufacturers, they don't do different shocks for the VR6, 1.8, G60 etc (Bilstein does though) to take into account the heavier engine, cheers Steve

Go to http://vwtechnic.com/transmission.htm click on the image of a gearbox and open the list of all VW gearboxes and their ratios, there are some real good boxes out there, I like EUH and EWX I would just look out for one with te ratios you want

Not so much "what I did to my Corrado today" but since returning from Italy at 1AM Thursday, I've replaced coolant hoses, fitted new Aux water pump, fixed broken drivers door handle, removed rear engine mount and removed 12mm off it and refitted, made and fitted 4mm spacer to gearbox mount (to get 24V engine level), fitted Dave16V quick shift kit (awsome workmanship and works like a treat), modified and fitted intake pipe (changed 180 degree bend to 2 x 90 degree bends), OH and helped my Dad fit a new engine into his 1962 TR4, Still to do include MkIV Climatronic aircon, 5th gear deisel swap into close ratio V5 box make up a dual signal post cat O2 sensor simulator (RS components £15) respray I think I might have tomorrow off, but I said that abut today!!!!

like Kev said, they're coming http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0406tur_knight_turbo_electric_supercharger/

Payment sent Dave Cant wait to fit it

the 2 90's instead of a 180 is to give more clearance around the throttle body and to get the intake parralel to the firewall, polyurethene adhesive sticks like **** to a blanket, so no problems there

[ATTACH=CONFIG]75261[/ATTACH] This is my setup Consisting of 1 section with take off point 1 45 degree section 1 180 degree section 1 meter section and 3 aluminium joiners clamped and checked then removed and bonded together using polyurethane adhesive only thing I would do different is replace the 180 with 2x 90 degrees

I'd be a bit sceptical, he might have had a better price, I'd be tempted to try and get a discount, Ask what's broken, but then I like to fix things

I've done some investigation regarding the clutch switch, with the clutch pedal depressed, it speeds up the closing (definatley) and opening (not obvious but I believe this is true)of the throttle body, with the clutch up it gives a smoother transition between open and closed throttle positions, hence why a lot of people reports revs rising between gear changes. I have problems with a "lazy" left foot so quite often have it resting on the clutch pedal, on a normal cable opperated system that's not a problem but was getting funny jerking issues where (with hindsight) the switch was opening and closing as my foot depressed the pedal to the switching point anyway I'd read that if you open circuit "clutch down" the circuit, it will reset to "clutch up" within a certain time, after some testing (and funny looks from passengers and pedesrians) I believe after about 8 seconds of seeing "clutch down" the ECU will default to "clutch up", so that ruined my idea of pulsing a signal to the ECU using a cheap timer kit, anyway after testing the driving experience in regards to aceelerating/ decelerating with the ECU seeing a "clutch down" signal, I can say it's very jerky and NOT smooth at all, so to recap Clutch swith IS important, I adjusted mine so it activates just before the clutch starts to slip, this way I can rest my foot on the pedal and not activate the switch I hope this makes sense, any questions just ask

Hi I need the hose which goes from the cylinder head to the heater matrix (it has small diameter take off for the throttle body plus the hose from the auxiliary water pump to the thermostat housing I also need a working auxiliary water pump cheers Steve

Sorry should have read the thread first!!!! before requesting parts cheers Steve

FYI basic temperature circuits use a voltage devider circuit, it shouldn't change with load UNLESS the supply and the voltmeter(gauge) have different supplies(+ and/or -) http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/mastascu/elessonsHTML/Resist/Resist3.html#Temperature%20Measurement I'd be checking G1/5 is earthed to cylinder head,

Sean, was it you who was talking to a programmer about deleting the clutch switch

Clump1, You must have been drunk, because either you were at BUG JAM!!! or it wasn't me that you met:bonk: It's going well, it's just that I like to set my car up to my requirements and having never owned a DBW car before, I'm going to have to play with it a bit

Hi, Just thought I'd give an update on how things are going, went to AMD last Tuesday and after a day at west `thurrock shopping centre and cinema I picked the car up, To be honest it doesn't feel that much different, the figures topped out at 201 BHP and the tech said it was due to the heat, but looking at the grapth there seems to be a definate "turn" in the power at EXACTLY 5500 rpm (same rpm as the rev limit when vss isn't connected) so I'm wondering if something is causing the ECU to limit the power, I'm also having a problem getting used to the drive by wire throttle and clutch switch system, I have parkinsons which mainly effects my left side so I tend to not take my foot off the clutch pedal which I believe causes the ecu to behave weirdly (Kangerooing, revving between gears) I remember someone was in conversation wit a programmer to delete the clutch pedal switch, any updates??? overall I'm impressed with the low down tourque, I'm missing the 12V roar, air con is my main focus at the moment Steve

I know, black would be great, but cream would look sweet,

Count me in for one, don't suppose you could match the cream interior of the green storm???

Got the C remapped at AMD, bit too hot for good figures, 200bhp in 60 degree booth, estimated to be about 210-215 without the heat, drives smoother and pulls lovely at over 1oomph

Spoke to AMD in Essex re. oil temp, what the guy said is that it is more likely to be heatsoak from the engine giving a false reading at the filter, and that if the sump oil is reading 90 degrees then the oil in the engine will be 90 degrees or less, I've ordered a sump plug with 10mm thread for temp sender and blank off the port on the filter, I'm aslso going to order a laser non contact thermometer and start shooting coolant hoses in the bay

Same coolant system as 12v, only issues are auxiliary pump not working (didn't effect my 12v oil temp) going to get one today, bought as a conversion, previous owner reports to no oil temp issues, coolant outlet 24v aux pump blocked ---------- Post added at 6:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 5:39 AM ---------- Same coolant system as 12v, only issues are auxiliary pump not working (didn't effect my 12v oil temp) going to get one today, bought as a conversion, previous owner reports to no oil temp issues, coolant outlet 24v aux pump blocked

made up new silicone intake for 24v engine to use stock airbox, bonding the pieces to get rid of the jubilee clamps, oh yeah, and drove it!!!

yeah 24v oil cooler with 12 coolant system, Russ (previous owner of engine) said it never went over 102 degrees filter is original to engine I believe I know the answer will be simple but I'm getting frustrated,