J.C

semi success lack of top end grunt was due to the connector to the intake flap solenoid was not connected, when for a blast A LOT better, a few flat spots but prob. once I get filter and remap should be good, but oil temps still rising too high, coolant is on 90 degrees but oil went to 108 before I backed off, been looking at how it works, correct me if I'm wrong, the pump draws cooled coolant along the crack pipe via the thermostat, at the same time drawing coolant from the heater matrix bypassing the thermostat, the pump also pulls coolant through the oil cooler from the engine block, where this coolant comes from I dont know, but it seems to me that the coolant's not flowing into the oil cooler, why? blockage or maybe a wrongly connected hose???? The mechanic didn't fit the aux coolant pump, does any one KNOW whether this would have a direct influence on the coolant flow into the oil cooler??? I'm picking up the Aux pump amonst othe rthings tomorrow, will fit it back into system. VW85 you'll be pleased to know that after a few gear changes at 6000 rpm my ECU decided it too didn't want to go over 5500 rpm, so now I'm limitet to 5.5K GETTING THERE!!!

Paul, I've sent you a PM gets a bit confussing as different forums have different rules on RADBMX forum dibs is the way to go

Engine has been sold, Hi I'm selling the (ABV) engine out of my Corrado, I'm putting in a v6 4motion engine in so this engine is for sale, Pick up is from near Hitchin, Herts specs are 2.9L, OBD1, 112,000 miles, comes as a complete engine, including MAF, Down pipe, Alternator Coilpack, engine loom, basically everything which is wired into the engine loom Bad points Runs a bit uneven under 1600RPM good points Despite the uneveness this engine pulls extremly strong, has good oil pressure. because I've tried to cure this uneveness, I have checked, replaced or renewed all electrical engine components including Injectors (refurbed ones bought), spark plugs(+spare set), leads, coilpack, MAF, TPS, coolant sensors, Knock sensors, cam sensor, crank sensor, Lamdba sensors, Not sure how to post the videos I took of it running but if you PM me your email adress or mobile number, I'll send them to you. I need this gone, it's taking up space in my mechanics garage, If this doesn't sell very soon, I'll have to strip it and chuck the block at the scrappy, which I don't want to do. I'm positive it's a good engine, I just havent got the time to develop it, I'm transporting my Corrado out to Australia next year and they are real hot on modified cars, otherwise I would Turbo this engine Price is £150 for complete engine, thanks for looking Steve

that sounds like the way to go, have you any photos?

Thanks Taks, Sean and vw owner85 gives me things to play with next week,

seems like this one isn't I might take the oil temp sensor off my old engine, at least that will give me a reference point ---------- Post added at 10:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:35 PM ---------- On another issue(if you don't mind) the engine mounts which came with the engine put it on a slant, my mate decided to cut the mounts down even more than 20vtvw did but I can feel every vibration of the engine, I checked the gap and there seems to be at least an inch (25mm for the youngsters) between the oil cap and the bonnet bracing I'm not going to run the big square cover and don't want to hack the bonnet about, so if I get new mounts, does anyone know how much (if any) to take off each mount I'm old and not getting any younger and want a nice smooth ride Thanks in advance STeve

I've looked, have you a link?

The cooler is a little square box with 2 hoses going to it? if so this is on the rigth hnd side of the filter the hoses go into the block certainly feels hot in there

to be honest, I don't know

it's an AUE Don't know what cooler system, My mate put in what I bought off 20vtvw he's put the temp sensor in the same place as the 12V VR6 Havent vagcom

I got the car back yesterday after 24v conversion a couple of questions previous owner (20vtvw) fitted the oil temp sensor and oil is running at 130 degrees after warming up engine then 10-15mins of spirited driving, my old vR6 never got that hot, is this normal also, it's got a good amount of pull lower down the rev range(like I expected) compared to the VR6 but semms to hesitate a bit at around 4K and above, (doesn't pull like the vr6 used to) I've checked that the intake flap opens, filming it, it seems to open at 3500-4000, At the moment I've got no air filter (waiting for intake hose) so I know that may effect the hesitation but oil temp??? any ideas any ideas ---------- Post added at 12:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:49 PM ---------- I got the car back yesterday after 24v conversion a couple of questions previous owner (20vtvw) fitted the oil temp sensor and oil is running at 130 degrees after warming up engine then 10-15mins of spirited driving, my old vR6 never got that hot, is this normal also, it's got a good amount of pull lower down the rev range(like I expected) compared to the VR6 but semms to hesitate a bit at around 4K and above, (doesn't pull like the vr6 used to) I've checked that the intake flap opens, filming it, it seems to open at 3500-4000, At the moment I've got no air filter (waiting for intake hose) so I know that may effect the hesitation but oil temp??? any ideas any ideas

I like it with the chrome T

not when I put it in my car, the pedal didn't work until I reconnected the blue/white wire which 20vtvw had cut saying that, I'm still in the install stage(no road use yet) ---------- Post added at 4:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:40 PM ---------- not when I put it in my car, the pedal didn't work until I reconnected the blue/white wire which 20vtvw had cut saying that, I'm still in the install stage(no road use yet)

I've got 20VTVWS engine and my throttle WOULDN'T work unless VSS was connected,

I never separated the box and engine, we were putting in a 24v engine/gearbox combo which I got off a fellow forum member, I just remembered turning the drive cup and seeing the other cup go in the same direction, I didn't pay too much attention as we were having a nightmare with the mounts, I'm going there tonight, so if I get a chance I'll jack it up and have another look

I'd have thought turning the flywheel would cause the wheels to rotate regardles of what type of diff is in there edit, I think I know what you mean,

Hi all Just puting in a 02J box code FBK, it's still attached to the engine, when I turned one drive cup the other drive cup turned in the SAME direction not opposite like I expected it to, I did some research and read that some MK4 box's had factory LSD as an option, according to a Ford site if the drive cups spin the same way then a LSD is inside, http://www.auto-tat.co.uk/Escort%20Upgrades/Chapters/Transmission/Transmission%20Index.htm does anyone know if this is true, could I have landed a LSD gearbox Steve

Being an electrical Engineer, Issues are what I like:thumbleft: once I get the car back from the garage, I plan to give it workthrough, neatening the wiring, hopefully getting the MPG reading to work etc I wont embarress myself by commenting on the VSS problem just yet, as I'm not up to speed on the 24V conversion

I just bought a complete v6 4motion conversion and when I had a look at the supplied loom I saw a blue/white wire cut I questioned this and the reply was "The blue/white wire in ecu plug is for vss I didn't run this as it stopped pedal from working,might have done it wrong? United motorsport can map that bit out " Maybe it is not an uncommon problem..

Lol!!!!

Hi I'm selling the (ABV) engine out of my Corrado, I'm putting in a v6 4motion engine in so this engine is available from monday 17th June, pick up is from near Hitchin, Herts specs are 2.9L, OBD1, 112,000 miles, 190BHP comes as a complete engine, including Clutch, MAF, Down pipe, Alternator Coilpack, engine loom, basically everything which is wired into the engine loom Bad points Runs a bit uneven under 1600RPM good points Despite the uneveness this engine pulls extremly strong, has good oil pressure. because I've tried to cure this uneveness, I have checked, replaced or renewed all electrical engine components including Injectors (refurbed ones bought), spark plugs(+spare set), leads, coilpack, MAF, TPS, coolant sensors, Knock sensors, cam sensor, crank sensor, Lamdba sensors, Not sure how to post the videos I took of it running but if you PM me your email adress or mobile number, I'll send them to you. Price is £250 for complete engine from MAF to CAT to Clutch or £300 with VR6 gearbox (CHN code) thanks for looking Steve

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221021780029?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 I took the top of the fuel pump off and cut the hose coming from the supply side of the pump, I cut it as near to the top as you need to secure the one way valve with fuel pipe clamps which are metal and it's best to keep them as far away from the pump terminals as possible, alternativly you could put it in the engine bay, I did mine in the tank because if the fail you wont have petrol peeing out everywhere

I'm doing a climatronic conversion from a mk4 golf and I want to graft an original fan onto it, so I don't have to modify the glove box, I'm in St.`Albans herts area, if anyone has one lying around and can help me out (ie not expensive), It would be great, I'm not sure about whether it can be done but it's worth a try Steve

the IAT has a very limited effect on fuel metering, if disconnected it defaults to 20 degrees centigrade iirc the blue temp sensor has a bigger effect, could be a stiking injector when hot, see if there's pressure by trying to pinch and bent the the supply fuel line to the fuel rail

my valve was kaput, took a long time to start hot or cold, so no I don't think that's your problem