J.C

I fell in love with the VR6 when I drove my old man to the airport in his Golf VR6 in the early 90's, on my way home a numpty in a cavalier sri was tailgating me so I dropped it into 3rd and waved goodbye to him, When we arrived from Australia(emigrated there in 1999) I bought a 97 golf vr6, such a sweet engine, the corrado's engine has always underwhelmed me, never as smooth, nor as nippy as the golf, when I drove the golf, I felt I was driving something special (engine) and that I could take on anyone, But the corrado is a special car but with an engine which has ordinary performance, I'm sure it's just my engine and with a bit of work it'll be back to being "special" but I have chosen to modernise with a 24v engine, and what with it going back to OZ with me next year, Air con is a must. can't wait for it to be done VWowner85, what exhaust are you running, I'm getting the magnex from the conversion as well, at least I know it all fits

I'm havng a v6 4motion conversion done (starting Saturday) and I'm wondering whether the 24valve unit means the car loses a bit of it's authenticity, ie is it just like a smoother, better vr6 or is it like a modern car, I suppose I'll ind out after the conversion, I'm fitting 20vtvw's conversion but with air con and a 0.717 5th gear on the 3.9fdr gearbox:dance:

Mines the same, but my golf 2.8 OBD2 vr6 was a lot smoother, looking forward to the 24v if it's quieter (I'm very much an aural person),

going rate is about £12.50 I'll have it:dance:

Looked up that part number and you get the size of 53x5.3mm http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140730954619 try these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NITRILE-RUBBER-O-RINGS-5MM-DIAMETER-C-S-VARIOUS-SIZES-FROM-33MM-ID-TO-62MM-ID-/321049528613?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item4ac00b0925 just check they are fuel capable your mechanic should be able to measure and order the correct one

RS components I worked it out that 100W would be best, http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/0158301/ I think I got 2 of these wired in parralell to give me 0.5 Ohm and I got another one of these http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/0188087/ but can't remember the value, I ended up using the single 100w resistor http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/fixed-resistors/panel-mount-fixed-resistors/?sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294465990,%204294444411,%204294466729,%204294449197,%204294448990,%204294461356,%204294455932,%204294466730,4294875272,4294867536,4294877730&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4294956957

Into my Corrado, I sorted out my fan with an external resistor mounted in front of the rad. didn't have any issues, granted not as good as a PWM box but a lot cheaper, £2 if I remember correctly

Gives me something else to think about, when I do my MK4 climatronic with AC install:scratch:

Hi Stone, My VR6 Golf only worked on full fan speed, turned out to be the resistor inside the fan motor itself, I just wired in an external large resistor(25W+) of (I think) .33/.64 ohms, between the high and low speed supplies to the fan, I'm sure given your talents, that'll be easy Keep a look out for a MK3 golf VR6 with a shiney gold block of metal behing the grill!!!

I'll price up the postage and get back to you steve

I had one of them, I chucked mine in the bin, regret doing that as could have used the hoses again for a leakdown tester, I got similar results to you, bought a Gunson and got figures of 190, bin the gauge and keep the hoses

Sorry should have put that, I'm in St.Albans

Cams sold Still got the lifters, £25 delivered

Oh the joys of owning a hand built car!!! things like that are usually a factory band aid repair to some rattling issue, check door pulls, cables, shake the door and see if/where it rattles

Thanks, Just checked and found out where it goes, just got to find out where the other one went!!!!

Whilst removing the headlining a bit of plastic fell out part number 763 684 959 [ATTACH]74607[/ATTACH]

I'm thinking I'll open mine up as well, considering I'm installing air-con and it'll be exported to Australia

I think Storms come with the top 2 blanked off,

From what I can gather, relay 53 is a standard relay and could control a multitude of things, I'll have a look at the wiring diagram and see if I can trace those colour wires Steve ---------- Post added at 1:28 AM ---------- Previous post was at 1:11 AM ---------- Looks like it could be J208, (HO2S) heated oxygen sensor control module, which supplies voltage to G39 HO2S heated oxygen sensor, when the engine control module power relay is energised red/yellow wire supplied from fuse 18, to confirm check voltage(to earth/chassis) at R/Y wire with ignition on, (12Volts), then remove fuse 18 and test again, should be 0Volts Steve

Thanks for your help today Nick, Was good fun chatting and playing Corrados, I think I'm going to have to call on you computer expertise to get my VAG COM working, they were the setting I was using!!!! would be good to find out why the timing was changing between 3 and 6 degrees at idle. developed a misfire on the way home when under load, turned out to be a loose lead but did make me realise mine HASN"T got a misfire but more like a murmur, might check out the ISV on Monday D day will be Tuesday,

Just seen that, looks like a good package, Discount for forum members????? I wont know for sure until Tuesday whether my 12V is knackered, Steve

Have you got a link to yours?

Whilst searching for a 24Valve lump I came across this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151052430533 looks good 28000 miles did some more research and came across this http://www.r32oc.com/topic/43815-28-v6-conversion-aue-engine-now-on-ebay-starting-price-275/ 1st picture looks familiar!!! 112864 miles!!!!! have sent him an email and asked whether the milage is documented Steve

bad news, after further tesyts, it looks like the camshaft sensor is ok, been up since 5am and traced and checked the wiring for MAF, throttle, idle valve, coilpack, camsensor, engine speed sensor, accelerator sensor, engine coolant sensor, injectors, IAT, IAC, Main engine earth. checked operation of MAF, throttle position, Camsensor, IAT, ECT sensor. before anyone asks, I havent VAG com'd it, my mate lives over an hour away, besides the symptoms havent changed since last scan, previously ruled out includes I have fitted new spark plugs and have tried brand new leads, No difference so refitted old ones. spoke to the PO's garage and he said "that misfire" as if he knew I had a misfire, so I suspect it's been an ongoing problem as he said he's replaced leads, plugs and coil. if anyone near St.albans can help me with either VAG COM, ECU, Coilpack, there seems to be two issues, 1 Misfire seems to mainly under 2400rpm 2 Vibration up to 1600rpm if it's not ECU or coilpack then I'm thinking it's bad news like sticking valve, bottom end IE mechanical (I'm an Electrical Engineer and don't like getting oily;)) I'm thinking of cutting my loses and fitting a 24valve lump but possibly do it while keeping VR6 12V ancillaries IE just use the 24V block

I had it put on my mates snapon diagnostic thingy, a couple of weeks ago came up with 00525 O2 sensor no signal intermittent 00513 engine speed sensor, no signal repaired the repair which was done previously on the lambda connector presumed the engine speed sensor was because of the engine not running when I plugged in machine Cams(and lifters) were bought 2nd hand (5K usage) with gears and sensor ring fitted, Had this issue with the old cams as well got to love "SWAPTRONICS"