J.C

Still stock 12v cooling Cooling works fine, fans kick in, cooant temps around 80-90 when oil is at 120+, funny thing is where the engines previous owner put the 12v oil temp sensor is it reads 120+ but I've put a temp prob down the dipstick so it in the oil in the sump and it only shows temps of 90 or so there, So either heatsoak from the engine block where it is in the oil filter, oil pump heating the oil (doubt this as this would mean heating by 30+degrees) Blockage in the oil cooler/filter, blockage in the coolant supply to oil cooler, 24v more sensitive to auxiliary pumps not working( same pump as my 12v and that didn't get over106 does anyone have a diagram of how the oil flows, Pump-oil pressure-filter-cooler etc just to finish I've run the cables from the dipstick probe into the cabin to monitor, I do however find it hard to work out how there can be a differece of 30+ degrees between the 2 points (pressure sender port in oil filter and sump) ---------- Post added at 6:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 6:24 PM ---------- Still stock 12v cooling Cooling works fine, fans kick in, cooant temps around 80-90 when oil is at 120+, funny thing is where the engines previous owner put the 12v oil temp sensor is it reads 120+ but I've put a temp prob down the dipstick so it in the oil in the sump and it only shows temps of 90 or so there, So either heatsoak from the engine block where it is in the oil filter, oil pump heating the oil (doubt this as this would mean heating by 30+degrees) Blockage in the oil cooler/filter, blockage in the coolant supply to oil cooler, 24v more sensitive to auxiliary pumps not working( same pump as my 12v and that didn't get over106 does anyone have a diagram of how the oil flows, Pump-oil pressure-filter-cooler etc just to finish I've run the cables from the dipstick probe into the cabin to monitor, I do however find it hard to work out how there can be a differece of 30+ degrees between the 2 points (pressure sender port in oil filter and sump)

I've posted in the 24v thread, but I think it could be a general problem not a 24v specific one I've fitted a v6 4motion engine which was previously installed in another forum members C, been having problems with high oil temp, here's the 24v post checked out the hot oil situation and it seems that the oil (or at least the oil temp sender) is getting too hot, driven at a steady 70mph temp is around 106 degrees,EDIT, after a run to hitchin and back, it was more like 120 degrees at 70mph, driven hard it got up to 130 before I noticed and backed off, I bought a new temp sender and plotted the resistance vs temp from 50 degrees to 100 degrees, then measured the resistance of the sender in the car after a run, the displaygave the correct reading for the resistance of the sender, I then removed old sender and fitted new sender, then carried out same resistance vs temp test that I did on new sender and THE RESULTS WERE THE SAME. So I'm thinking the coolant is not circulating through the oil cooler, either a blockage, incorrect hose connection (I've checked and double checked) or water pump failure, thoughts please gentlemen as I've got it booked into AMD on Tuesday for a remap and I don't think it will like the punishment on the dyno

2 steps forward 1 step back checked out the hot oil situation and it seems that the oil (or at least the oil temp sender) is getting too hot, driven at a steady 70mph temp is around 106 degrees,EDIT, after a run to hitchin and back, it was more like 120 degrees at 70mph, driven hard it got up to 130 before I noticed and backed off, I bought a new temp sender and plotted the resistance vs temp from 50 degrees to 100 degrees, then measured the resistance of the sender in the car after a run, the displaygave the correct reading for the resistance of the sender, I then removed old sender and fitted new sender, then carried out same resistance vs temp test that I did on new sender and THE RESULTS WERE THE SAME. So I'm thinking the coolant is not circulating through the oil cooler, either a blockage, incorrect hose connection (I've checked and double checked) or water pump failure, thoughts please gentlemen as I've got it booked into AMD on Tuesday for a remap and I don't think it will like the punishment on the dyno

WHAT A DIFFERENCE IT'S AWSOME!!!! Went to the breakers and got a connector for the knock sensor, fitted it and it now goes like a dream(a real smooooth one at that!!!!) remap on Tuesday, Bug Jam next weekend,

On mine there is a black and white check valve connected to a "T" piece, tucked under the intake manifold, one branch of the "T" piece goes to the solenoid, the other goes in the direction of the block to what I presumed to be the resevoir. ---------- Post added at 6:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 6:30 AM ---------- Yes it was until I broke the solenoid mounting tabs trying to disconnect the plugs, so hence why I've mounted it by the fuel regulator, plus I kinda like easy access to important parts

so just to confirm, the vacuum comes from the intake, goes to the fuel regulator, T's off to the vacuum check valve, then onto the vacuum resevoir and solenoid which controls the variable flap, I hope this makes sense??/

I Vagcom'd my C today, there was a lot of codes asscociated with the swap except for one, got a code for Knock sensor 2 signal too low, looked into it and the knock sensor wiring was wired into the Blue coolant sensor???????????? Just got to sort that out , booked into AMD in Essex next Tuesday for a remap, Off to the breakers tommorrow to raid semi modern VAG cars One other point, is it critical to have both solenoids for the variable intake flap connected as there seems to be wiring missing from the solenoid nearest the alterator, I have also relocated the solenoid to beside the fuel pressure regulator

No, My VAGcom doesn't work, I just made the system as VW engineered it, re did my rear mount, I think the mechanic got one of te pulleys hung up on the chassis, and kept on cutting down the mount until there was no rubber between top and bottom plates, now it's nice and smooth, next is the gearbox, got to decide between the (installed) V5 (3.938 FDR) or the original VR6 (3.389 FDR) and then install the .717 5th gear

Wired up the clutch and brake switches and what a difference, only took it around the block but no more reving between gears, Can't wait to drive it tomorroew nearly ready for a remap For the brake lights ant terminal 56 on ECU, there is a spare connector on the end of a black/red wire connected to fusebox (E/3) took ignition live from (2 pin) connector with black/yellow wire connected to A1/7 if you havent got the 4 pin brake switch connector, you can use 2x standard speaker connectors, just shave off a tiny amount of a lip by the wires and super gglue them togetther, then super glue thin strips of plastic to the side of the (new) 4 pin plug to act as locators, so the plug only goes in one way

repaired and painted the front of my front wings, fitted new intake hoses to oem airbox recovered my headlining orderen brake and clutch switches for 24v motor

+1

I've been using DC clamp meters for 10+ years diagnosing electric forklifts, When you're dealing with 100A+ current draw, they're a lot more practicle than using a shunt, I found my Fluke clamp meter to be very acurate when compared to calibrated in line meters, obviously a cheap £20 ebay item will not be as accurate but will give an indication of a circuit drawing current when it shouldn't be,

Sorry didn't look at the specs, I'll find one which measures DC ---------- Post added at 4:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:57 PM ---------- Try this one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MASTECH-MS2108A-Digital-Clamp-Meter-Multimeter-AC-DC-Current-Volt-Tester-UK-/110948414049?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item19d50a7261

Get a clamp meter, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1000-AMPS-DIGITAL-CLAMP-METER-MULTI-TESTER-CURRENT-C831-/320535806626?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4aa16c42a2 this is a VERY cheap one but should be ok for what you want to do. Just clamp it round the main negative (or positive, as what current goes in, comes out back to the battery) check the current drain when everything is off, then turn on various items and see what draws too much current, if you have an issue with one or more circuits, this method will show it up

Regarding the clutch and brake pedal inputs, I found this http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?255211-Clutch-pedal-switch-in-engine-conversions interesting read as I've got mine performing quite well but it "hangs" onto the revs when changing gear

Great news, I think I've found why my oil was overheating,,,, It wasn't, I stuck a thermo probe down the dipstick til it got in the oil, idled the engine until fan cycled on/off a good half dozen times, oil must have been cycled around the block a few times, MFA display read 100 degrees, my multimeter with the probe read 75 degrees, I'm presuming that there would not be a 25 degree difference between the locations, given 20vtvw didn't get over 102degrees with the SAME sensor there must be a difference with our wiring/earth/power supply or MFA compatibility problem, Oh and I boiled the temp sensor in water and it read 97 degrees (so a few degrees out) Might just check the wiring and if it turns out to be a compatibilty problem, I'll just rig up a calibration pot in line.

Yes, That way there are twice as many different wires, but you're right, with electrics it's always best to check, double check and check again, once the smoke is out, it's very hard to put it back in

double post,

Regarding the VSS and Accelerator pedal wires The confusion comes with the reading of the colours of the wire(s) The pedal wire is white/blue the VSS wire is Blue/white the first colour being the main (thick stripe)colour and the second colour being the stripe(thin stripe) and yes 20vtvw did cut the pedal wire, will sort the rev limit out but first VCDS then engine mounts

Sorry, It's sold

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow I have a spare connector next to the throttle body connector, any idea what it's for? What do people do with the EVAP purge valve, delete? and secondary air injector pump, delete? Got to get VAGCOM working!!!!

Would this apply to the AUE engine as well, I've got VCDS lite and lead, But can't seem to get it to communicate with the controller, it was the same with my MK3 golf VR6, worked for a few months then packed up, I think I might have to invest in the paid version, but I use a Mac so will need Boot Camp sorting out first Does VCDS lite have a time limit?

I just reloined where Russ (20vtvw) cut it to be honest, I'm a bit dissapointed with the 24v conversion, I'm thinking of putting new mounts in to get less vibration, running the intake ducting, then shipping it off to DGautotech (or similar) and get them to sort out the overheating oil, poss flap malfunctoon, flat spots, refit my `vr6 box with a TDI 5th gear, OR source and put a good VR6 12v back in Plug and play (with)LOL, my arse!!! sorry, rant over ---------- Post added at 7:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:00 PM ---------- I just reloined where Russ (20vtvw) cut it to be honest, I'm a bit dissapointed with the 24v conversion, I'm thinking of putting new mounts in to get less vibration, running the intake ducting, then shipping it off to DGautotech (or similar) and get them to sort out the overheating oil, poss flap malfunctoon, flat spots, refit my `vr6 box with a TDI 5th gear, OR source and put a good VR6 12v back in Plug and play (with)LOL, my arse!!! sorry, rant over

Don't say that, makes me doubt putting in the 24V ---------- Post added at 7:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:41 AM ---------- Don't say that, makes me doubt putting in the 24V

I've reconnected the cut wire already, maybe the rev limiter is a general safe mode setting, which is applied when any one or more of a number of faults occur and not a specific outcome of a particular fault/problem