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Everything posted by J.C

  1. J.C


    [ATTACH=CONFIG]78777[/ATTACH] He IS Australian!!!
  2. Sorry for the delay in updating the thread, I've ordered the materials and they should be with me in the next few days, then there's at least a week (depending on how much time family life can give me) in making the panels, I'll update when I have a better idea when they are available, People who express an interest on this thread are noted and are put on my list, Please be patient as I have a young family to look after and can only work on these when I have some spare time cheers Steve
  3. I'm pretty sure I sent one out a couple of weeks ago, I noticed on the label why you're called GLOSTEROX (live in Glocester) and I made sure you got one as you were kind enough to do a deal on the panel which these are made to, Probably got lost in the post, my fault for not sending them recorded:bonk: Anyway, I'll send you out another one tomorrow, if you end up with two, could you send one back Cheers Steve
  4. Havent you recieved yours Ian?
  5. Thanks for the feedback and kind words Roger I've identified what went wrong on yours (and one other), I've changed the way I make them for batch 2, so we shouldn't have this problem again, If anyone else has colour bleed can you let me know via PM and if you want I'll swap it when batch 2 is done. cheers Steve
  6. Thanks for the feedback and kind words Roger I've identified what went wrong on yours (and one other), I've changed the way I make them for batch 2, so we shouldn't have this problem again, If anyone else has colour bleed can you let me know via PM and if you want I'll swap it when batch 2 is done. cheers Steve
  7. [ATTACH=CONFIG]78762[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78763[/ATTACH] Getting there, Just supporting brackets to go and extend the coolnt hoses to the TB and possibly a cover for the leads
  8. It seems that the iss130 doesn't have a low pass filter (iss 165/200/570/690 do) Just wire them up as bass 1 is in your diagram I've got focals in mine, sounds very good, I flush mounted the tweeter in the triangle trim high in the doors
  9. It could be that the bass drivers have a natural "roll off" of frequency and that the tweeter filter just compliments this, Didn't it come with an installation manual? have you looked at Focals website?
  10. I know that later 2.8 and 3.2 have variable cam timing on both intake and exhaust, I'm not trying to make a 3.2 clone but more like giving the 2.8 a bit of a cheap(ish) boost so would increasing the cc yeild a repectable increase in bhp? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Golf-Audi-3-2-R32-Engine-/221439202762?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item338ece15ca
  11. A bit of an out there question, But I read that the increased capacity of the 3.2 (compared to the 2.8 ) is due to a larger stroke, so in theory could you convert a 2.8 to a 3.2 with changing crank, rods etc? would it be worth it if you could pick up a F**ked 3.2 for under £500 or should I look at either upgrading to a 3.2 and sell on my 2.8 or supercharge the 2.8 I'd like to get around the 250 BHP mark
  12. have you checked the DBW throttle pedal output, to make sure it's not dropping out,
  13. What have people done about the PCV Valve, I've got an AUE code engine with the PCV outlet on the left side (looking from the front), I havent got the original PCV valve, At the moment it is feeding into the intake after the MAF but before the throttle body, From what I've read, the following may or may not be true The VR6 24v has a (sophisticated) built in baffle system already in the rocker cover and doesn't need the crap OEM PCV valve, You don't want oil vapour in your engine, can cause air/fuel mixture to be more volatile, Oil residue in intake is normal on engines, it's called "blow by" Vr6 PCV Valve is to stop the pressurising of the crankcase when intake pressure rises at high RPM, PCV valve stops an intake backfire igniting crankcase gasses Catch can is the best solution, So what solutions do people employ cheers Steve
  14. Hi James, Have you managed to dig out this guys number yet, Cheers Steve
  15. How are people getting on with their kits? have they arrived yet? any problems? any suggestions? Please PM me with some feedback cheers Steve
  16. Hi all, Sorry I havent replied for a while, been a bit busy, At this moment I'm planning to start a second batch in a few weeks time, Steve
  17. I thought tat adress sounded familiar LOL
  18. Hi Roger, No additional costs, I'll post it out tomorrow Steve
  19. Hi Roger, I noticed the bleed of colour in the first photo, I'll send you a new one and once you get it if you can send me that one back, Not sure what happened there, but it's all a learning curve cheers Steve
  20. Sorry Ian, I'll Pm you them
  21. Hi You don't have to isconect the battery because, The unit turns on with the light switch and that will of course be off, also by the time you connect the panel to the invertor (little 2 pin plugs) the panel is safe and sound already installed in the dash, Just to reiterate, I have been handling these panels and have not had any problems but I just want to sure. However, no matter how carefull you are, silly mistakes can be made, like the time I couldn't be arsed to get my wire strippers and proceded to strip the wires with my teeth only to find it was still connected to a powered invertor, that was a bit of a shock:bonk:
  22. Thanks to all who have paid, The backlight kits have been sent, Hopefully you will recieve them before the weekend, if they havent arrived by next Wednesday, let me know, Cheers Steve
  23. J.C

    Headliner colours?

    I think Stonejag has black trim, send him a pm
  24. Instructions [ATTACH=CONFIG]78574[/ATTACH] remove ashtray, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78575[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78576[/ATTACH] Remove ashtray housing, phillips screwdriver, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78577[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78578[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78579[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78580[/ATTACH] Carefully prise panel away with a flat screwdriver, Be carefull as the plastic is old and potentially brittle, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78581[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78582[/ATTACH] Once again be carefull in prising away the original light rings, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78583[/ATTACH] Position new panel with the lead exiting at the cigarrette lighter area, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78584[/ATTACH] Optional, refit the green light ring, this is a bit tricky to fit as you need to bend the faceplate to get the tabs in place, if you couldn't refit the green ring, the panel can be fixed in place by bluetac etc, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78585[/ATTACH] Loosen the cigarrette lighter by sliding it to the left and pulling forward, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78586[/ATTACH] Feed panel lead through the opening above the cigarrette lighter, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78587[/ATTACH] refit the panel, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78588[/ATTACH] refit the cigarrette lighter, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78589[/ATTACH] lay the blue wire (to ashtray light) into the connector as shown, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78591[/ATTACH] clamp the blue cable between the connectors halves, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78592[/ATTACH] feed the invertors red wire into the right channel and make sure it goes all the way in to the end (about 15mm), crimp the cables with a pair of pliers, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78593[/ATTACH] secure the locking tab, [ATTACH=CONFIG]78594[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78595[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78596[/ATTACH] repeat for the other wires (brown to the ashtray light and the invertors black wire), [ATTACH=CONFIG]78597[/ATTACH] optional, I covered my invertor with some pipe lagging foam I had lying around in the garage, it's not neccasary but stops any potential rattling. [ATTACH=CONFIG]78598[/ATTACH] connect panel to the invertor and position invertor into area behind the ashtray, Refit the ashtray housing. THE PANEL OPERATES AT A HIGH AC VOLTAGE (approx 200V) SO THEREFORE IS DANGEROUS, I HAVE SEALED THE EDGES BUT THE UNIT SHOULD ONLY BE POWERED UP ONCE ALL THE PANEL HAVE BEEN PUT BACK, I HAVE TRIED MY BEST TO SUPPLY A GOOD PRODUCT AND DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS BUT IF YOU FEEL IT IS NOT WITHIN YOUR CAPABILITIES OR YOU ARE UNHAPPY IN ANY WAY, YOU CAN RETURN THE PRODUCT FOR A FULL REFUND ANY QUESTIONS PLEASE ASK, Steve
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