J.C

Hi, I checked out delivery options and the cheapest is around £25, that's for next day delivery but I won't be able to send them until Tuesday, cheers Steve

Hi I've still got them, I'll check out some couriors and see what they will charge, what's your postcode? Steve

Hi I've still got them, I'll check out some couriors and see what they will charge Steve

I just fitted a Ford coilpack from a Couger (£15 ebay) works great, hasn't cured my lumpy idle but noticbly more top end plus more oomph with a light foot, I'm very happy all the info is here http://www.roflwagens.com/showthread.php?8271-12v-VR6-Ford-coilpack-swap-%28MK4-MK3%29

That's what I was thinking, I only need my front seats and my spare dashboard done

sorry for the thread revival but have you got the details of where you got yours done? £225 for the whole job sounds great

Must be something about the Storm, I compare mine to an ungrateful, tempremental, stuck up bitch. But she give's a great ride!!! So I forgive her

I thought the K line was the connection which the various controllers (ECU, ABS, climatronic etc (on later models)) talked to each other, Anyway I'll defer to you as I'm no expert, I just want to know if any other 24 valvers have problems with their misfire counters being disabled

Thanks for the reply, I thought it used pins 4,7,15 and 16, where 4= GND 7= K line(ISO9141-2) 15= L line(ISO9141-2) 19= 12V+ It will be interesting to see whether your misfire counts are enabled or disabled

I was thikning it could be communicating via the K line, Re. the abs detecting the road, this is just what I've read. Is your misfire detection enabled or disabled?

Does anyone else have a problem with their misfire counters being disabled (on vcds lite) I've read quite a bit and most people say they should be enabled whilst driving, I have purposly run on 5 cylinders and the counts stay on ZERO, I have heard that the ABS controller can disable the misfire count if it feels that you are going down a bumpy road, so as to stop false misfire counting, I have an ABS fault but can't acces the controller as it says too many comunication problems, I'd like to know if a MKIV ECU will work completely with the corrados ABS controller cheers Steve

Without a picture I can't say for sure but a poke around with a screwdriver will tell how deap it is, best to do something once the weather is better, There's a sealant/adhesive called Tiger seal, sticks like **** to a blanket!!! can be a corrado owners best friend,

Probably not a long term fix but for £30, worth a gamble, plus if you video it and it doesn't work, they'll give you your money back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/320771589733?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95&ff19=0

Make sure your insurance has windscreen cover, then have a little accident with a stone!!!!

Hi, I need the space so these have to go They are straight but need a refurb, come with good tyres (one odd winter tyre but have spare matching tyre, [ATTACH=CONFIG]76879[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76880[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76881[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76882[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76883[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76884[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76885[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76886[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76887[/ATTACH] I've restored the center caps, will get some pics up soon I'm looking for £150, pick up from St.Albans Herts,

Hi _Meth I've just sent through a few pics via email, My email sometimes comes up as junk emails, can you check your junk folder for email from stevecarnt(at)gmail(dot)com cheers Steve

Check this article out http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ It seems to suggest that thicker oil could be a factor in increasing oil temp, thinner oils have faster flow rate ( therefore more heat dissipation), I did like the rule of 10PSI of oil pressure per 1000RPM, getting ready to refit my pressure gauge to the new(ish) 24V

You don't need the crimpers if you are only going to do this less than 50 times!!! a pair of long nose pliers will crimp well enough so that you can solder them, you can also reuse the old ones, to remve old connector pin you need an extractor tool or you can make one up with the thin bit of metal found in wiper blades, Cut metal about 10cm long, bend a 180 degree in the middle, file the two end sections so the end up about 2-3 mm wide, this then fits either side of the connector depressing some lugs (pictured left of the crocodile clip on the above picture) therefore allowing the pin to be extraccted To can reuse the old pin, just cut the old wire as close to the connector as possible, strip 3-4mm off the end of the new(old) wire, twist the strands, then tin the wire with solder, refit the silicone rubber sealing boot in the connector so that the tinned wire rests on top of the old crimped section, Then simply solder the wire to the connector, cheers Steve

There's a product called JENOLITE, it is (was) used by the ministery of defence, I used it for years while I ran a aircooled VW restoration bussiness. The best advice I can give is Sand (not wire brush on a drill, as that just polishes the rust) the area, removing as much rust as you can, then soak the area in the liquid form of Jenolite, allow to dry completely (could be a day or 7 depending on the temperature and thickness of rust which has soaked up the liquid, Once it is dry paint it WITHOUT sanding the area, If the area is not smooth enough for you liking, apply filler or high build primer to the area then sand, be care not to break through the hardened top coat of the Jenolite, Do this and you'll be fine, I Know this, as cars I restored in the 90's are still winning shows and featuring on the front cover of Volksworld (my own 66 Bahama blue Beetle) magazine nearly 20 years after I painted them

for people with VCDS, I've heard that if you log the MAF g/s figure, then the highest reading is 0.8 of the actual horsepower, I had mine RR on a VERY hot day and it gave a figure of 201 ( I have a 2.8 24V in mine) The other day I logged the MAF and peak was 163 g/s which is 204 bhp (factory specified figure for the 24V engine)

+1 for sure!!!

I suggest getting a clamp meter, does everything what a basic multimeter but measures Amps as well, I got mine 2nd hand off ebay, here's one from `maplin http://www.maplin.co.uk/uni-trend-203-dc-ac-current-clamp-multimeter-629713 Also, to add, I don't like autoranging multimeters, they take too long to stabilise their readings, we normally know the voltage range we need to test on cars, 0-20V range

so it only counts the misfires when under load or high revs? and if misfores accured whilst it being enabled, then they would get logged in 014 and 015????? my misfire counts are always0, which is a good thing, unless if the misfire detection never gets enabled, could I monitor and log the misfire status, enabled/disabled over a period and if so how do I do that cheers Steve

Hi all, I've tried to access the misfire count 014 and 015 (I think) but the 4th box says the status as Disabled, Does anyone know how or if I can turn it on, Engine is a 24valve AUE I have a registered copy of VCDS, cheers Steve

I would cut down the front mount, 10-20mm should do, the section you cut off the mount can then be used as a spacer between the donut rubber (underneath cross member)and cross member, that way you dont have to cut center threaded section therefore keeping thread length, plus easy to revert back to stock,