J.C

I believe it's ME7(ME7.1) Although not sure

RESULT!!! T121/81 is in fact an MPG signal, how accurate is yet to be determined but after a VERY leisurly drive to the shops and back my MFA indicates 27.8MPG, like I said I'm not sure how accurate but it is a lot more accurate than 99.9MPG!!!! I'M SO HAPPY NOT TO SEE 99.9MPG ANYMORE:cheers:

That's interesting, all I thought was that the 24v engines conveyed the MPG signal via CAN BUS, half way down this page http://forums.kilometermagazine.com/showthread.php?5797918-Mk4-AFP-VR6-swap-into-CE2-MK2&p=78729637 there's a pinout chart, it says 81 is for the instroment cluster, If i get some spare time I'll try and have a look at mine

I'm liking the updated version, I'm in for a pair

Hi I had a stiff pedal until I got a new cable, new cable made a world of difference, Mine has a ball on the end where it attaches to the pedal linkage (above clutch pedal) I only used mine for 3 months before I removed it and went DBW, IIRC all in it was just over £40 Bit of a pain if it's now obsolete, I'm planning on taking mine to Santa pod this Sunday with some other stuff I'm selling but if it's the correct one for anyone here, how does £25 delivered sound? Steve

My SAI relay is still in place, it's just not switching anything, no pump or wiring. Doesn't throw up any codes, The only codes I get are, S2,B1 and S2,B2 heater element codes and Can bus errors for cluster and ABS

I think it's not a problem if you remove it and put a resistor in the circuit or delete it from the code, but I'm hoping that having the "normally open" Corrado valve controlled by an ECU which is programed to control a "normally closed" 24V valve is causing my lump idle. I've got rid of my SAI as well, maybre that needs some investigating

I know what you're saying but if I had to choose between these and the genuine ones, I'd choose these ones, £20 compared to £60,

Not sure whether they are very thick pile but they are a nice depth, plus the backing is vey stiff so they dont bunch up, they have the non slip backing but Corrados carpet is very slipery so the rears move, It comes with a nice extra binded piece by the pedals and one hole in the drivers matt and a fitting for screwing into the carpet, I however prefer to use a cable tie around the seat runner to stop it sliding forward, I bought some genuine VW corrado mats and they lasted less than 6 months before the back was breaking up, I've had these since the turn of the year and they are still like new

I bought these and they are good quality, very pleased with them http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190881330821

No not yet Kev I've got a few other things on the go at the moment, Suspension, Heater backlight kit etc, I'm going to GTI spring festival at Santa Pod next weekend, I will be on the lookout for a 24V N80, I'm Mainly going to sell stuff, hopefully will come home with less parts and more money than when I left, But somehow doubt it!

I guess you blocked up where the pipe normally goes to the intake manifold, I've still got my valve connected so as not to throw error code but I've routed the tube into the air box so at least it'll now be metered

There's two reasons why I did it this way, There's not enough room between the manifold and the air box to have your throttle body, tubing and MAF, so by cutting the runners you are moving over the throttle body end by 2 inches or so to the right, The problem with flipping the throttle body end is that it's got hump underneath and when it's fliped it sits too high and fouls the bonnet, I'm thinking it would be easier if I sleave the runners with rubber tubing, just to see if it works

Thanks, That would concur with my findings, I think I'm going to disconect the N80 and block the pipe so the engine just thinks it's got a faulty N80 and will bypass it

What did everyone do with their EVAP purge valves (N80)? reason I ask is that my idle has never been good, I wont go into what I've checked!!!! but now I've found out(I think) that there is a difference between the original Corrado N80 valve and the 24 valve N80's It seems according to the bently manuals Corrado N80 "with ignition switched off,valve to throttle valve open" 24V N80 "In a no-current situation the solenoid valve is closed" If this is the case, When you start up in the morning the 24v ECU supplies no current to N80 thinking it will be closed, if fact it will be open, creating a symptom like a vacuum leak, The ECU will then alter the fuel trim EDIT, this may not happen because Lambdas are not in use when engine is cold. but not knowing the exact temps and conditions that the ECU uses in decideing when to activate Lambdas, N80 etc, this could cause more confusion as the engine heats up, when engine gets to temp, The ECU will pulse the N80 valve , The ECU will expect a leaner mixture due to the unmetered air from the n80 valve but will in fact see a richining of mixture due to the Corrados N80 valve being puslsed closed, Therefore reducing amount of flow through N80, The ECU will then alter the fuel trim again, This will happen every time the engine starts, warms up, cools down, in fact everytime the ECU changes N80 valve's output If I'm correct then this will result in a constant state of fuel trim changes and may not allow the ECU to stabilise enough to create a smooth idle I'm hoping to pick up a 24V N80 valve at santa pod next week, I will let you know how I get on Steve

Hi all I've tried various greens and have settled on one (with an extra filter to reduce the output), I believe this to be a very close match to the original illumination plus I'm very happy with the red and the blue, I'm just waiting for the first batch of 20 inverters, hopefully will be here next week, All going well I'd like to start shipping them out later part of next week, Cheers Steve [ATTACH=CONFIG]78111[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78112[/ATTACH] Brightness after filter [ATTACH=CONFIG]78113[/ATTACH] Brightness before filter

nice result, well done

LOL, aint that the truth

Hi all 24 valvers I don't suppose anyone in the london south east area has a 24 valve engine stripped so I can test fit my latest idea, This will allow the use of the standard air filter and location. cheers Steve [ATTACH=CONFIG]78084[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78085[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78086[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78087[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]78088[/ATTACH]

Well there you go then, the thing I love about the Corrado is that you don't have to pay **** loads of money to own a classic car, let's hope it stays that way

£8,000 What were they, 30,000 mile original gold plated!!!

I know of a decent bodyshop in Luton who can repair her, Let me know if you want any more details Steve

Good question, My original supply of green was very good given that (on mine anyway) the cigarette lighter is a darker green than the switches above which in turn is a different green to the lights which light up the main dash, However I wasn't happy with the original red as it had a hint of purple compared to the red heater dot on the temp dial, I now have sourced a very nice red, I've ordered some green and blue samples and will choose the closest match Steve

I suppose I'm going to have to confirm a price (for the initial 20 units). After checking out postage and packaging costs the final price including delivery to mainland UK is £25.95, I hope people feel this is reasonable, I will post some photos of the finished article soon, Steve

Hi Goldie I was going to ask the first 20 who said they'd have one to reconfirm by PM. Once the inverters arrive I'll give payment details (still got to price up postage costs) Steve