J.C

Hi all as you've probably figured out the panels have arrived, I'm doing an initial batch of 20, Fla, easypops and Matt, can you confirm you colour choices, cheers

Hi Same situation as Fla, do you want red on the 2 outer dials and red and blue on the temp dial? Steve

I'm in the process of making these, do you still want purple?

HI, If you want the 2 outside dials in blue, do you still want Blue and red for the temp dial? I'm not sure if it'll look OK, but your call Steve

PM'd you

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231176010797?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

I've had a look at the wiring schematics and I think the most likely possibility is the black wire feed the coilpack with ignition voltage, As all other black wires are fused, Disconnect the ECU and start by checking the resistance between the burnt out black wire and the chassis, Tell us what reading you get. Where are you located?

Hi all I've just placed the order for the Electroluminescence panels, inverters etc I hope to have the kits shipped out in 2-3 weeks time, Steve

Sounds good to me, I'll PM you tomorrow

I've made a bit of a mistake with my shock and spring choice, First off, money is a big issue, so anyone saying get XXXX brand costing £600 is not relevent. I purchased some 35mm front, 40mm rear lowered springs from a German online store, I bought KYB Gas replacement shocks, Now the front end is too soft and spongey, upon further research I've found that the KYB shocks are marketed as VR6 G60 16V etc NOT VR6 specific, and it's the same story with the springs, my opinion is that the spring may be usable but the shocks ar etoo underdamped, so comes the question, What cheap shocks work on the heavier engined VR6, either VR6 specific or a heavey damped one for various models And as a side questioned can people confirm that MK3 golf shocks (front) fit on a corrado Cheers Steve

Mine is the one being offered on this site by 8vMatt, It's different to the original one in that the way it dims the display is done by a transistor/mosfet where as the original switch used a variable resistor, I'm not sure what difference (if any) this will make but I thought I'd mention it, When I get some spare time????? I'll mock up a resistance circuit to find out Steve

The idea is to check each one for fit in a faceplate before I send it out, If I've got a spare one it'll save me removing mine everytime I do a batch. How much do you want for it? Steve

There is a slight high pitch whine, I've got very sensitive hearing and I don't notice it while driving, I can only hear it with the engine turned off, I have ordered a few different drivers (which are due to arrive in a week or so) so will pick the best(quietest) for the production kits

Hi I need a cheap late heater control faceplate to produce heater control backlight panels, If you can help that would be great Cheers Steve p.s link to backlight panels http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=85702&p=1016096#post1016096

I can do them in any combination of Blue, Green and Red, any other colours there will have to be a small surcharge, additional colours are Yellow, Lime Yellow White Pink, Purple and Dark Blue Steve

Hi Kevin I've not heard of the drivers burning out, I will do some research, I will of course replace (free of charge) any component which is faulty or not up to the job. Steve

Thanks for all your positive comments, I've enlarged the photos so you can get a better idea of the how even the illumination is, The rough edges will be smoothed out once the tooling is done, Steve

I hope this is allowed, Sorry if it's not, I'm looking at making a EL panel kit if there is enough interest. details are here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=85702&p=1016070#post1016070

Hi all, I've been developing a backlight for the late heater controls, I'm thinking of producing an easy to fit kit which will include a pre-cut multi coloured Electroluminescence(EL) panel, Driver for EL panel and a set of instructions, Wiring is very simple, all you do is tap into the ashtray light wiring [ATTACH=CONFIG]77911[/ATTACH] Custom colours will be available on request [ATTACH=CONFIG]77912[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]77913[/ATTACH] Use the original green surround to locate the panel [ATTACH=CONFIG]77914[/ATTACH] Number 4 speed will be properly illuminated in production kits, [ATTACH=CONFIG]77915[/ATTACH] This panel will dim BUT it may depend on what headlight switch you've got, I've got the new one which uses a transistor to reduce the illumination Price will depend on how many orders but I expect it to be around £25 posted, So let me know what you think, cheers Steve I've been asked to put the fitting instruction on the first post, Just tried to copy/paste but didn't work, Until I figure out how to do it, The instruction are on page 9, post 85 http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=85702&page=9 Steve

the Porsche 924/944 models have their batteries located in the boot (of a hatchback design) , both of which don't have battery boxes or specific venting, just saying

But what if the barrel is worn as it olso functions to keep the key in the lock whilst driving, if the key is not held far enough in the barrel then the contack to the ignition switch may not be sufficient, It is quite possible that the reproduction ignition switches are not manufactured correctly,

After getting totaly ****ed off by my radio reception, I decided to fix the aerial, removed antenna base, dismantled found corroded positive track, repaired that, soldered earh links from coaxial sheilding and pcb directly, soldered in link from PCB to aerial fixing point coated whole assembly with liquid tape, refiited and now get perfect reception,[ATTACH=CONFIG]77768[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77769[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]77770[/ATTACH]

Itried the new spare key and no difference, I haven't got time to investigate today plus it's not a big issue ATM so I'll put it on the list of "to do" items

The +12V supply for the stereo come from a contact at the back of the ignition which is pushed by the end of the key, I replaced my ignition switch a few months ago for the same problem, now mines starting to play up again, I'm wondering if it's worn key and/or barrel problem, I'll try my "new" spare key tomorrow to see if that makes a difference Steve

I'll be following this with interest as my pedals a bit low after fitting 288's, I did read somewhere that if you have a siezed rear caliper slider then the hydraulic pressure causes flex in the carrier causing a low pedal, they say this can be checked by seeing if the rear pads are worn in a "wedge" shape