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KarlosG60

Cluster gauge displays are gone

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Posted (edited)

I was thinking about my issue this weekend.

What relation can exists between the electrical noise from fuel pump relay, with the dead of my cluster gauge? A noise only heard in the first tries after the fuel pump has been replaced and also, last day when I connected all the wires from it when I was discarding the origin of the cluster dead.

How this fuel pump works in the very first turn on try? Maybe I make a mistake with the fuel pump? I bought it new from VWClassicParts.

Edited by KarlosG60

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3 hours ago, KarlosG60 said:

I was thinking about my issue this weekend.

What relation can exists between the electrical noise from fuel pump relay, with the dead of my cluster gauge? A noise only heard in the first tries after the fuel pump has been replaced and also, last day when I connected all the wires from it when I was discarding the origin of the cluster dead.

How this fuel pump works in the very first turn on try? Maybe I make a mistake with the fuel pump? I bought it new from VWClassicParts.

The only thing I can think of that relates them are the shared voltage.  If the grounds are not good, you’ll get low voltages. Many components need full voltage to work properly.

Have you fixed the main grounds?

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Tank / pump earth would be a place to start?
 

clocks will have a voltage stabiliser chip, mk2s drop to 9v for temp and fuel level. Mk2 clocks also earth on the corner of the cylinder head

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, Bennitoapplebum said:

The only thing I can think of that relates them are the shared voltage.  If the grounds are not good, you’ll get low voltages. Many components need full voltage to work properly.

Have you fixed the main grounds?

It's strange to me, because the cluster always works fine. It's true that the car is out of the road since 2010, but every time I run it, clocks works fine. It only fails after the fuel pump was replaced. I don't know.

Have you fixed the main grounds?

Not yet. Throughout this week I will buy some stuff and fix some of them.

 

42 minutes ago, Dox said:

Tank / pump earth would be a place to start?
 

clocks will have a voltage stabiliser chip, mk2s drop to 9v for temp and fuel level. Mk2 clocks also earth on the corner of the cylinder head

Fuel and water temp are working fine. I read the Bentley's and the voltage stabilizer it's for this gauge only, if I didn't mistaken the translation the Bentley to my language. I search for some videos at YT, but I don't trust myself to check the voltage of my cluster gauge.

 

Thanks guys.

Edited by KarlosG60

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On 8/11/2020 at 9:04 AM, Bennitoapplebum said:

All those problems you list are normal for a Corrado.  Just kidding.

Fix all the grounds first, then you can start diagnosing the problems.  Sometimes fixing the grounds will be the cure.

The main grounds to check or replace are:

1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic)

2: transmission bolt to frame

3: intake manifold to firewall

4: firewall to hood hinge

5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box

 

Make sure they are clean, have no crud or corrosion before you bolt them down.  Dielectric grease can be used AFTER bolting them down, to prevent corrosion/oxidation.

All these grounds are important on older cars as there may be corrosion between the spot welds and mating flanges, reducing current flow to the interior.

Ok, let's make an update.

I bought this silicone grease:

silicone_grease.thumb.jpg.c865509ced57529800038d34c478aac0.jpg

It's not dielectric, but I search a lot of info about differences between silicone grease and dielectric grease and are a few minor differences. My choice was silicone grease because the price:

https://www.amazon.es/Silverhook-SGPGT90-Grasa-Silicona-Tubo/dp/B00W6Q3B1G/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=silicone+grease&qid=1599054107&sr=8-1

 

1: Main battery ground to frame(1xshaunx1’s pic)

Greased.

2: transmission bolt to frame

transmission_1.thumb.jpg.a54fee1c0a0c9e414a4c90aa2ab95a99.jpgtransmission_2.thumb.jpg.468575207b5cd4d569312d4be3029519.jpg

 

3: intake manifold to firewall

This was fixed long time ago (this ground was missing when I bought the car). I refixed anyway:

admission_1.thumb.jpg.2b77f1d174d235e95b206165323e148e.jpgadmission_2.thumb.jpg.3772b70dec17dfdddbb9aa7f47beb366.jpgadmission_3.thumb.jpg.1c4371abffd45a952e9578bc4e3bf31d.jpgadmission_4.thumb.jpg.9465ec46d55d598033dad752de8871b4.jpg

 

 

4: firewall to hood hinge

hood_hinge_1.thumb.jpg.54c151c78356be9c4ae903956ed78a5b.jpghood_hinde_2.thumb.jpg.910524d59e8bc316ce1e7d1d9861a52d.jpg

 

 

5: ground “bus” above relay/fuse box

I think this ground is fine and I not repair and grease it because the working lamp and my phone are gone. So this ground is not fixed, but I repeat I see it very well. Anyway, tomorrow I will fix like the others (dismount, sanding thread, replace nut)

interior_relay_box_1.thumb.jpg.eb57668d0f69ec38789e8813afc0a173.jpg

 

 

 

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I have another question, because long time ago found this at fusebox:

wtf_1.thumb.jpg.86e741a474aa13d104af3453d014ce1b.jpg

wtf_2.thumb.jpg.ac403de27dc4f2034634e85ace256213.jpg

 

But this will be on another thread.

I only need to know if this wire and switch it's original or not to pull it out and clean the zone.

 

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Looks like a door contact switch for the interior light - doesn't seem OEM, the switch part looks different and has more metal, and the electrical tape around the wires is suspicious - but an alarm fitter might have replaced it or fitted a different one that has more contact pins than the factory one (they usually have two).

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2 hours ago, fendervg said:

Looks like a door contact switch for the interior light - doesn't seem OEM, the switch part looks different and has more metal, and the electrical tape around the wires is suspicious - but an alarm fitter might have replaced it or fitted a different one that has more contact pins than the factory one (they usually have two).

The problem with that type of things it is necessary to check carefully before cut it or pull it out. This car had an audio system "enhancement" (very poor and homemade) which I had to remove, maybe this switch it's part of it. Well, this is not a priority right now, but the cluster gauge displays.

Edited by KarlosG60

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1 hour ago, KarlosG60 said:

The problem with that type of things it is necessary to check carefully before cut it or pull it out. This car had an audio system "enhancement" (very poor and homemade) which I had to remove, maybe this switch it's part of it. Well, this is not a priority right now, but the cluster gauge displays.

I would definitely trace the wiring back and remove it, as I dont believe it is original. Good luck with sorting this though 

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Actually your #5 pic (ground bus) is not the correct one.  It’s above the fuse box.  I can see it in your other picture, after the aftermarket switch picture.  It’s bolted right above, has around 10 “fast-on” type connections, with about 4 brown wires occupied.  I also see a thin black wire connected to it (looks shaky) kinda burnt.  Might wanna check out what that is.

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15 hours ago, Bennitoapplebum said:

Actually your #5 pic (ground bus) is not the correct one.  It’s above the fuse box.  I can see it in your other picture, after the aftermarket switch picture.  It’s bolted right above, has around 10 “fast-on” type connections, with about 4 brown wires occupied.  I also see a thin black wire connected to it (looks shaky) kinda burnt.  Might wanna check out what that is.

Oops, ok, thanks

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