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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/03/2022 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Update, as I would have had to remove my "NOS", from about 2006 VDO Pump I mentioned I installed 18+ months ago to replace the fuel hoses (which I did change at the time , but stupid me, used the wrong hose, needs to be Submersible type, which I have now got Cohline 2190), it was just as well I did. The couple of small cracks noticed before install had spread like cancer, and given time probably the whole top cap would have broken apart, only the swirlpot top, where the return nozzle is affected, all the rest is fine, so its probably a different crappy plastic. See attached pictures, to me this evidence that the VOO NOS items, are probably not worth the risk, as even if the cracks are not there to start with, they could start sometime later. The Pump itself is ok, I have taken the unit apart completely to clean the filters, I obviously need to remove the old fuel (car has not been driven in 10+ years, has been started many times, but always on a low tank, and the fuel is now pretty horrible.! I may buy the JP Pump, and see if i can swap my VDO Pump into the JP casing, I would then have a spare pump.
  2. 1 point
    Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.
  3. 1 point
    That is terrible. Are you fitting a one way valve on the line as well as the new pump? Here are pics of my old pump that I changed last year. Which I assume was the original but not really any markings
  4. 1 point
    Just checked, no markings on the body but I've no idea if it is the original, car has 133k miles.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    I’m sure Chris will reveal his method, but when I did this on my car, I used a wallpaper steamer with a nozzle attachment to soften the wax, and then wiped off with a cloth. I then used a degreaser and a cloth to remove the remainder. You can keep going with panel wipe if necessary, but I was happy to just reapply some fresh clear wax.
  7. 1 point
    Hi - a late 95 car should already have a VDO pump in it, as the Pierburg was only used for about 18 months for the early VRs. Your fuel gauge sender and float should just swap straight over on to a new VDO pump or swirl pot.
  8. 1 point
    Broke up for Christmas last Thursday so got some time on my hands. The Corrado assumed the winter prep position again today!
  9. 1 point
    Thanks, I got a cutting of a bumper and made a small patch to block the hole, i plastic welded it with a soldering iron from the back then filled the bumper. It was then re-sprayed. There are some pictures on page 3 👍
  10. 1 point
    It doesn't give you nearly as many options as on a newer car, but you can at least view and clear faults for the engine and for the ABS ECU. It's also possible to monitor a wide range of sensor values - basically nearly every sensor that talks to the ECU will show up in a measuring block. Are you seeing any fault codes? High RPM at idle would certainly suggest an air leak somewhere after the maf, or a fauly ISV. I think there is a trick somewhere in the VAG-COM interface for exercising the ISV solenoid - sometimes a proper clean will also help. Check out all your vacuum lines and hoses (to the brake servo, FPR etc.) and the EGR and crankcase breather system - there is also a black baffle muffler box connected to the ISV that often cracks and leaks air.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks Geri a great friend of mine on here - always supported my builds with positive comments. I will be hanging about for sure mate - sure will drop down what I get - its an open book right now. Cars that I enjoy looking at shows. Merc 190 e cosy Sl r129 sl60 pre merger amg sl r107 e46 m3 cab saab carlsson 900 turbo ( love these ) very rare car . 911 perhaps but i tend to sell them after a year in fear the engine pops - bloody chocolate cylinders. Might even have a look at a Jap car for the first time- maybe even an alpha . Audi s2 coupe Audo coupe 5 cylinder red 177 bhp. Golf rallye blue Mk7 club sport S. Will have to be a finished project though im done with the 2 years process and costs of a project - the cars and new owners are the winners- I want to be that new winner owner now ha - get in enjoy and then sell on for the same price a few years later.
  12. 1 point
    New forum title 🙂 Looks great from here. First Corrado I had was a 2.0 16v in white. Freshly polished in fading light makes all those lines/curves really pop. I said I wouldn’t have another white car, but I’d have that in a breath 👍🏻.
  13. 1 point
    Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well
  14. 1 point
    That is shame but at least it sounds like you'll get closure on that car. Pleased to see you're still going to get one and I will keep an eye I've been through pain of resto and bodywork etc and would recommend avoiding all that hassle and buying a good one straight off. Im not normally someone to worry about mileage (155k on mine) but concede in the UK market people would sooner by a ropey 100k car over a well sorted to 155k, so if I were doing it again I'd be aiming for sub 120k miles, great body and make sure it had leather (cost me a £grand to make that happen which on top of bodywork and engine work makes for an expensive game and a car that will never be worth its cost..). The engine can be sorted at say Stealth racing but the rest of the mechanicals (apart from ABS) is boggo mk3 golf so anyone can do it. All the best and keep us posted on outcomes of the old car. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    No worries bud glad to help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. 1 point
    He still has the paper work for it he may be will to see if he can put the plate on retention and sell the plate I could ask him Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    We will post up what we find. BlackBerry it is 👌
  18. 1 point
    Well we can happily help you as we are all poking our noses around. What boxes does it need to tick?
  19. 1 point
    👍🏻. Without this mantra, the 8v would be scattered across the four corners of the kingdom by now. That said, I do feel like I’ve taken this theory to beyond any logical boundary with the VR. Injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning soon. And then other jobs. If I was hung up about driving it, I’d have thrown the towel in years ago. Great thing to look at, be it in dis-repair or gleaming in the sun.
  20. 1 point
    I thought that might be yours that went up this weekend. It’s easier said than done, but if mines sending me over the edge I leave it alone for a few weeks to build up enthusiasm and it’s always better to step back sometimes when you are chasing issues. When you come back to it you might look at the problem from a different angle or think of something you’ve missed which generally works out for me. Good luck either way
  21. 1 point
    Looks good now, fingers crossed for you 🤞
  22. 1 point
    I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    VSR on the left and shrick on the right - I sold a shrick last year and it fetched 1500 and sold behind closed doors - vsr can expect to pay over double then a schrick but rarely come up for sale . Schrick come up at least a few times a year - vsr probs looking at 1 every few years . Last shrick I saw sell was a breaker found one on a sharan vr6 . As mentioned above fb is your best bet - most important thing is to make sure the butterfly flap screws are secure or they could drop off and chew your engine .
  25. 1 point
    I only have a Scgrick fitted to a very standard set up, for now. But it certainly wants to go earlier in the rev range and well worth it. Good luck with finding one, you just need to be quick. I shall keep a look out for you. Don't be put off by missing parts as the can be worked around. I have a digital shift controller that switches the flap over and is quite cool as you can set the rpm and see what it us at. All works fine
  26. 1 point
    No suppliers have them from new - second hand market only at this stage and would set you back at least 1-1.5k. Original VWMS VSR, on which the Schrick was based is even rarer, with only about 600 made, although many tend to prefer the Shrick as it will give both torque and hp gains, whereas the VSR only improves torque, but is more OE - both work on the same principle by switching the airflow via a flap at a preset RPM. Keep in mind that with the Schrick you can#t get at your spark plugs without removing the manifold. Good hunting!
  27. 1 point
    TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.
  28. 1 point
    Hi, I was impressed with some refurbishment work I had done on the alternator, starter and PAS pump and thought I'd share the results. I didn't expect them to turn out so well so hope you enjoy the before and after shots as much as me. The chap puts on the oem stickers as well - nice touch. Bury Farm Autoparts in Bedfordshire did the work for £300 for all 3 units. He said he sources original compenents from all over Europe. They are actually a breakers yard with this business on the side. Real nice chap doing the work too.
  29. 1 point
    What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.
  30. 1 point
    Look in the wiki here - there’s a full reset procedure, a bit more involved that’s just disconnecting the battery. Did you check for any vacuum leaks anywhere? Even a small leak can affect idle - you can get a vac gauge to put inline with a t-piece to test. Could also be a faulty MAF reading - do you have access to VCDS and a test lead to check out all the signals?
  31. 1 point
    Thanks for the replies guys, It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion. As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing. I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option. I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀 It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,
  32. 1 point
    Welcome Jensen! I have just returned onto the forum and also looking forward to some shows and cruises this year with likeminded members based around the East Midlands! Finally finished my restoration late last year! Late 95 conversion also in black 😉
  33. 1 point
    Hey guys and gals, just want to say thanks to everyone who offered support on my project. It’s been a couple of years in the making, but finally completed everything last year! Literally everything has been replaced! Full respray, rebuilt 20vt, Ko3s turbo, stage 2, wiring loom by Dubnutz, all new belts, new cambelt, auxiliary, water pump, alternator, tensioner, battery, Brembo brakes (+G60 calipers), discs, pads, wheel bearings, abs pump, all wheel sensors, leather seats, new headlining, all sensors, knock, water, oil, air, aem AFR, new intercooler and pipework, hybrid shallow sump + new oil return pipe, full stainless power flow exhaust with track-slag down pipe, all fluids changed, new wheels, tyres, new windscreen and the list goes on!… really looking forward to catching up with likeminded enthusiasts this year and any corrado owners up for meeting up in the East Midlands for a convoy and a cruise feel free to link me up! cheers, Luke
  34. 1 point
    If you have the K brace you will have to drill though mate . The trimport looks bolt on bolt off . Here it is anyway. https://www.bafmotorsport.co.uk/products/volkswagen-golf-mk2-k-brace?variant=38007283056793&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2022-01-27&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZjAbYUnFPLhMC0SmwT_08eJK1ib2D-MiDne2-yM2Ps38PuBa2dXty8aAuriEALw_wcB This video is how they mount fittings etc.
  35. 1 point
    I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids
  36. 1 point
    It’s great to see that they chose the best colour 😎 I’m bias !
  37. 1 point
    I'm sure Fuzz appreciated your input Kip! Plus seeing your absolutely astounding car would give the guys a target
  38. 1 point
    good find m8 fastest owned - probably my modified VR but i think my modified & half stripped R53 supercharged mini would give it a run for its money. they both produce noise induced grins time after time! fastest ive been in - a few contenders; the nissan GTR i drove was crazy but then my old boss took me out in his modded porsche GT3, which covered ground so quickly it was incredible most interesting is a tough one - i still remember a ride in a 308 ferrari when i was about 10, had some great times in my uncles VW camper van but id go with my dads porsche 911 3.0 SC targa
  39. 1 point
    Great colour and pretty rare. Lovely golden fleck. The only black id want. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  40. 1 point
    The current wheels suit the car imo
  41. 1 point
    I’ve got to say that your reply was pure quality. It’s still tickling me now
  42. 1 point
    I have a bodywork guy coming to take a look at the car tomorrow. Once I have a price back then I will way up the odds of fixing up the car vs staying married!
  43. 1 point
    I wouldn’t advise looking at wiring diagrams you don’t understand just before you go to bed. But I’ve woken up understanding what you were trying to do. Ignore my last post it’s completely wrong. You through me off the scent a bit with the thermo fuse positive. He’s using the switches as ground so where you show a positive in your drawing on thermo fuse should be ground/negative. He’s doing it completely opposite to me. so using his drawing you screenshot, for the aux pump signals you’ll have to use pin 87 off of the 4 pin relays because of the constant ignition live you are using on the aux pump relay trigger, it’s the same but different.
  44. 1 point
    Hi , My mate has a well sorted Alpine White VR in Leicester for sale- has a very nice black leather interior to - stealth looked after the car for him and has many new parts. Send me a pm and I can pass on you his details if your interested .
  45. 1 point
    Thread resurrection - where can I get one of these Kurzy looms? Will iit work on a mk2 and mk3 as well?
  46. 1 point
    Moody - there are a few options available. I would say it's better to upgrade than try and find a working Corrado roof. My experiences to date - I bought a working corrado mechanism from a chap with the initals BR that was sold as working for £200. It broke on the second use. I wouldn't say it was the sellers fault but it's a 25+ year old bit of kit and certainly not worth £200. Don't do what I did - false economy. I then fitted a mk3 mecahansim with a Passat B4 moonroof. That combo works well - you can get the mech for about £45 (I use Leo GS the mk3 parts breaker on facebook - he is a great bloke and a moderator on a lot of groups). The passat moonroof can be picked up for around £50. I would sell mine if anyone wants it, it needs a new seal though. I wasn't a fan of the moonroof for my car. I prefered the stock tin panel. I got lucky and Chris F supplied me a bag of sunroof bits for a reasonable sum so I've got 3 corrado mechs built (2 x in car). I can't sell any of these though as I have 2 corrado's and need to keep it for spares. This is the best route to go - buy a broken mech and try and source a bag of bits (the bag of bits only cost me £50). I've seen somewhere someone has adapted the mk3 mech to work with the corrado inner panel. This is probably the best solution as the corrado mech is weak vs mk3. Mk3 mech out of the box will not auto slide the inner panel. I haven't looked into this with any detail yet.
  47. 1 point
    It's CCK068: HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com) Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.
  48. 1 point
    Well after 21years my original has been sold. I had been contemplating for some time now so a chat with my brother resulted in a trip to Shrewsbury and a rendezvous so he could take it back North. We were open to sensible offers, fundamentally it was more about finding the right individual who would continue to look after her. We think that has been achieved. So she is now in Cambridgeshire.
  49. 1 point
    So what has happened so far under my ownership. Well later that year August 2012 to be exact I met up with OSV and in exchange for some wonga I was given 263 cams. In Jan 2013 Meld went to DG and Graham set about future proofing her..... The timing chains, guides, tensioners, clutch, water housing, coil pack, lambda probe, ignition leads and spark plugs were replaced along with the cams getting fitted and a remap. A rattle in dash was done, front bumper bonnet and wings were resprayed and front and rear arp strut braces were added. I also bought a brand new 90mm lip spoiler from Graham (currently in garage. Got the car back in August as I'd told Graham I wasn't in a hurry to get it back. A year later Graham had her back for a service and a bit more fettling due to a loss of power - diagnostics fault finding and surgery commenced; the problem a blocked air filter and a cam position magnet failure. While there he also fitted a Kenwood KDC-BT73DAB radio and JBL by HARMANN GTO-5EZ/GTO-3EZ power amplifier. Now a few more pictures from shows attended: At the MK2 Golf Owners Club National meet: Nicely placed Meld has been put to bed during the Winters of 2013 & 14 and mainly been used to go to a number of shows when not in DG Autotech. attended shows are: Stanford Hall, All Types Bodelwyddan, Weston Park and the best (imo) Tatton Park. After Weston Park the roof lining started to peel I did try to repair using new glue but it just wasn't happening so a call on here and Purple Tom replied; deal struck and on on bank holiday weekend we drove up to Derbyshire to collect. Tips on fitting were past on and those tips made my life and the install much easier (thanks Tom) Nov 2015 I decided to go for a drive and she wouldn't start, she had been showing poor starting signs. Managed to find a Mobile Mechanic and he fitted a new starter motor only at the end of the install no start. Quick diagnostics by him and a frantic search on this forum by me for starting issues and we decided the ignition switch had gone....a week later and the part fitted Meld fired first time every time. 2016 has seen a change in wheel colour.......I didn't think I'd like the gold but they grew on me but due to an entrapment in the drive of my in laws farm after I'd come back from Weston Park last year; the alloys didn't get away scott free as the stones peppered them on my escape. So ready for this seasons shows I decided to get the LM's refurbished. The change did throw up mega issues though. I thought it would be easy so in May this year I took them to Platinum wheels in Swindon with the hope of getting them laser cut but due to them being split rims they coulbn't help, they didn't think their laser could manage the full dish, so a rethink and a chat with a friend put me onto his friend in Banbury. He's a powder coater and after a chat and a drive the wheels were handed over. 2 weeks later and I got them back, unfortunately due to the centre being changed back to how it should be the offset changed and when driving the rear were scrubbing the arch. Dialynx to the rescue (keep forgetting these guys are on my doorstep (granted the are more Audi specialists)) but when you see what they have done....well they must be good. After a few visits the idea height was found and this is it: The style and colour may not be to other people's taste but I didn't want bling wheels any more but I so love the LM alloy. New colour and new Dunlop Sportmaxx RT2 in 205/40/17 all round latest full photos
  50. 1 point
    The car is a 1995 VR6 I've done some searching around on the forum and learnt a lot - but i just want to get some views before i invest in a new fuel pump. Here's a detailed description of the issue - some of these points may be red herrings: - Unfortunately allowed the fuel level to get very low then filled up with a full tank of BP unleaded [normally i only use optimax] - 11 miles later whilst driving on the motorway at about 70mph the car started to lose power, then was jerking around like a kangaroo! Pulled the car on to the hard shoulder - turned it off and on again and then it seemed better. - Drove another 100 miles that day, mainly motorway driving with slight hesitation esp when starting in first gear and also with low revs in second gear - car pulled and ran fine for most of the journey. - My friend who was in the car during all this said he'd had the same issue on his golf 16v and injector cleaner had helped. - Next day replaced the fuel filter and tried again - still serious hesitation to the point of almost stalling when pulling away. Once above 2500rpm power is good. - Then added injector cleaner which made about a 50% improvement with this issue - hesitation felt far less. But still present - also at high revs (4000/4500rpm) in 4/5th hesitation is felt. I think its the crap at the bottom of the fuel tank getting in to the fuel system. I had hoped the cheaper options of new fuel filter and injector cleaner would cure it - but its still there. Would adding injector cleaner again to the next tank full be advisable? Or is it bad to use it too often? Does it sound like the fuel pump is on its way out? Is there anyway to diagnose this before i pay for the fuel pump to be replaced? Could it be something else such as spark plugs? Any help appreciated :roll: I should add that the idle is very stable and smooth - it idles happily at about 600rpm and also the car fires first time without issue.
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