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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

The cable adjustment reaction circlip will be missing, part number N 900 956 03 and £3.12 from VW dealers, the other problem sounds like an air leak.

Mate of mine just bought a mondeo st220 (he had one before, regrets selling it), flatbed dropped it off Saturday 1pm, rough idle, seller couldn’t sort it, owned the car for 10 years, had the plenum removed and new plugs PITA job on the rear bank on these. mate did due diligence, pushed a lead fully home and alls good- lead had pushed up the rubber cap.

Hi. No problem, better late than never 😉. So this car tinkering time you speak of, do you have enough to share around ? Looking forward to more updates 🫡

And now I’m very nearly there.

Looks like you've lucked out there, the Recaros are rare and highly sought after! Back is definite Corrado, but the first aid kit doesn't look OEM. OEM would have VAG branding on it somewhere I think. From memory VW used various different kits so hard to say what an original is (Although I might be thinking of the warning triangles), so I don't think it's something to be particularly concerned with.

I have been back a few times, but really struggling with this not being able to go to next page malarky! Hope everyone is well! Anyway, progress has been made! Both cars now have their heart removed, the Golf need its engine bay cleaned up, then the engine install shall commence! Watch this space 🙂 I shall also keep a track of the build on my instagram ejtaylor22 for anyone interested! Ill be back soon!

Looks Sherry to me too. I think the front of both sills could do with a in person look at as well

I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan

Mate, that VSR is still super gorgeous. I think I paid 1300 for my Schrick 3 years ago which still needed a full refurb and parts on top of that cost. They aren't cheap, but are quite an easy bolt on modification

Parked my car at the local farm shop earlier then stood drooling over a 997 GT3 a few spaces down before I nipped in the shop. When I come out there’s a guy stood looking at the Corrado, “Love the car” he says, goes on to tell me he wanted one in the day but never had one etc etc. I get in to leave and he gets in his GT3, wish I’d realised, he might have done a straight swap!!!

Thanks for the replies guys, It seems like there's a great deal of trust in Stealth Racing, but they are quite far away from me and it would cost a fair amount just to trailer it up there for a second opinion. As trust in the garage seems to play a big part in people's recommendations, I figure I'll let you guys know that it's at JMR racing. I've used JMR before for suspension work (back in 2007) and I believe that John knows his stuff, but I get the impression that he's a bit of a perfectionist and always starts off by recommending the premium option. I'm a perfectionist as well, but I'm not sure if I can justify the perfectionist price tag 😀 It seems like maybe a top-end rebuild rather than a full rebuild is the way to go,

I don’t know the proper part number I’m afraid but couldn’t you use a speed nut or captive nut like below. https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/300330970?type=shopping&msclkid=d7e8d2334ec315c86d72b013b925bfc7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - Brands&utm_term=4579809529099503&utm_content=Shopping - Miscellaneous Engine Parts-1 - OE-Quality https://www.bing.com/search?q=captive+nut&form=APIPH1&PC=APPL

Generally speaking that how prices do increase, someone gets ambitious, an another undercuts a bit and the prices roll up because of it. It happened with the Corrado over the last 5 years, speculators are now stopping enthusiasts owning the cars of their youth.

Thread resurrection - where can I get one of these Kurzy looms? Will iit work on a mk2 and mk3 as well?

Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.

What a collection, love it My first car was a Land Rover. Stripped it down and put it back together with my dad. Sold it to my sister after 3 years and bought a XR3i, 3 years of that and then a G60. The Land Rover was a lot of fun to drive @ 18 but very cold in the depths of winter

Says sold- but if you want similar I have a set for sale; with or without hump in rear depending on whether your car is vr or 16v

I saw some of your rust issues on Facebook , mine was very similar, sadly the underseal is now hiding the problems instead of preventing them 🤣 The fuel tank is an awkward beast, especially if it’s got a decent amount in it, definitely easier with 2 bodies

There is a wee yellow arrow top right that shows the earth block that’s hidden behind the dash 👍

I'd say don't bother testing, just replace it with a new one - that noise it's making in your video is not good.

Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!

Normally £100 - £150.

There was an Australian member on here who purchased a VSR a fair few years back in the UK and shipped it over to OZ.

It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.

Golf MK3 fuel tank Part number 1H0 201 075AR 55ltr tank with no restricted fuel neck 26mm From 1992 to 1997 Golf MK3 fuel tank 1H0 201 075AS 55ltr tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1992 to 1997 I think the Golf MK3 fuel tank/s are 55ltr only and can come with two different sized fuel neck diameters of 26mm and 22mm. Whereas the Corrado is available in 55ltr and 70ltr tanks and I think only has fuel neck diameter of 22mm. Hope this helps Si

I know it's messy. But i went through organised and labeled a few of the obvious issues. Such as loose vacuum lines etc.. (Please remember that I am without an ECU, not that I really have a vacuum line to currently stretch to it) Most of what has been done is undocumented from well in 15 Years ago. Will also try to get it running to the best of my ability when the ECUs Arrive back.

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Well the new retro line they cost silly money like 4 K a set as I spoke to the UK dealer in Recaro. There is a seller on ebay from Poland who will supply and trim a set of LS that look exactly the same and reckons he can sort out the seat bases none electric - at the end of it wont be far off a set of stock Recaro seats and will be none electric- although they will be brand new and don't have to worry about the electrics failing. Also can supply heating for not much extra cost. Here is the guy in Poland and if you look through the pictures the orange ones are just like the recaro . Any colour or material. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECARO-LS-LSb-seats-the-Pair-Leather/264529584394?hash=item3d9731210a:g:kq8AAOSwSK9dyWxf

Just seeing if this picture works... my converted evaporator from a Mk4 Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Hi there I have one but would need to check wiring can do so at weekend if you haven't been sorted by then

Another vote for toad ai606, had 2 now and both absolutely spot on.

Seen that golf on Facebook whe you had it up far sale .....wow lovely example....you'll love the vr and looks like you picked up a decent one too...friendly bunch on here mate Will be keeping an eye on this with excitement Good luck and welcome

From speaking to some audio enthusiasts and experts very recently on this subject, essentially the advice was quite loudly to forget about the rear 6x4's. They're too small to make any meaningful contribution to your sound setup in the car - so just put some new / reasonable replacements in of any brand, and concentrate on the soundstage up front.

I hope everyone else out there is sitting with the lights off and just the odd candle dug out from under the sink.... M. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/video_and_audio/

Green vr6 L270VLT parked up . 5mins away from me buddy CARMEL LLANELLI S.WALES You used to have an 8v in purple

there is a connector that goes into the dizzy, 3 wires, using a light, inspect the wiring and remove old tape, ive seen broken wires there on a couple of cars. also check the three colant temp wires beneath the dizzy they have a habit of breaking as well, its because of the heat and oil that crack the outer wire casing. if thats ok, you can check if the coil is getting a trigger signal from the dizzy at the coil pack connector. also check primary and secondary windings using a meter on the coil pack. let me know how you get on.

I have a late steering cowl in black you can have for nothing.

I'm fighting the temptation to strip one down and make a replica of my Corrado.

As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine. Have a look and tell me what you think!

Put a link up so to help people out in the future fella

The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB

You must have a lot of confidence in your handbrake................ Nice pic

I think theres only so long you can blame this new look for the lack of interest people seem to be showing at the moment. There are the popular group on here which i would imagine know each other outside of the forum and they reply to each others threads consistantly but seem to ignore others? I mean this thread had a large number of views but nobody posted anything and it seems unlikely to me that nobody had any answers to give!? just a thought thats all, were all enthusiasts trying to keep corrado alive, so help a brother out!

Yes there is a small plastic 10mm nut to undo which is easy enough to get to, I found that sliding the power steering reservoir out of the way helped things. You got another VR now then Adam?