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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

https://the-corrado.net/forum/51-membership-programme/

Be careful, scammers lurk and dm rather than post

Morning all! it’s been a while… life took over and things have been busy, too much for this time of day. I still have Corrado number 10, although it’s not been on the road since Covid. It did start earlier in the year, but needs a full respray before it goes anywhere. I’m not doing that until I’ve built a garage, which is getting closer to a reality. Meanwhile I went through a B8 RS4 and C7 RS6 before picking up a V8 R8 in the summer, a natural progression from the Corrado and they do look great side by side. I often look about for very good examples of Corrado’s and think it’d be cheaper and easier just to pick one of them up than sort mine! Hope all is well with those still here, maybe I’ll have some more exciting news in 25!

So as I said I already had this complete black G60 ,in fairness it was quite a ropey old thing that needed extensive work in every dept , had at least two poor resprays in its life , got a major repair to the rear quarter at some stage with was also poorly repaired and significant rust had set in , Main engine pulley bolt had loosened and damaged the crank nose and key way so a engine strip down was required , indeed I had already pulled the engine and box and was in the process of rebuilding it when I obtained the red one ..

Getting close, so well done. And change the brakes later, just get it out and enjoy it. It owes you 👌

Looks like Recaro front seats - would need a pic of the controls to confirm corrado. The whole interior looks like it has been retrimmed as the door cars don't look like that from factory + it's a mk3 golf right?

Hi, My G60 pump is the same 4 bar VDO unit, , it was bought from a e-bay trader more than 10 yrs ago who sold dealers old stock etc, it was a Genuine VDO Unit, I didn't fit it for 10 years (!), and it had acquired a couple of tiny cracks, they had not been there when I looked at it a few years ago, so must be an plastic aging issue ( probably the same rubbish plastic used for the headlamp adjusting screws holder), no cracks around the fuel pipe junctions though, I will be taking it out again to redo the fuel hoses in tank, so will check again, may have to think about replacing it again! Attached a couple of pics.

You’d be a fool to sell that….

I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan

TRW is a great brand do a lot for Porsche OE.

Nice. Just as others have said, easy to live with, easy to work on (all that space in the engine bay is a blessing at times), but be cautious with parts (lights especially) as parts are getting hard. Fun to drive and rarer (by some way) than a Storm. What’s not to like 🙂. I had Estorils on my first Corrado. They had diamond cut faces ( they were an option at the time) and looked great. Having run mine everyday for ten years, I’d recommend changing the wiper arms/blades to aero type. As the standards are hopeless. Lupo GTI or Audi TT is the way to go. You may also benefit from an upgraded headlight loom as well. There’s loads of replacement/upgraded parts available. Lastly, stick the MPG setting on the clocks and see what you can get up to on a long drive. 47.7mpg before you ask 😎.

Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours

A quick hello from a returning Corrado owner, although it was 25 years ago! Picked a Vr6 up in March, I’m a member on the Corrado club and It was well known on there and I think the previous owner posted on here too. Although already a clean car wanted to take it to the next level so have been refurbing all the underside slowly. Hopefully get it too some shows next year to meet you guys 😁

This was my method, tooling was supplied by Messrs Heath & Robinson! Getting the first side done took a couple of hours as I was trying every piece of packing for size to pull it in straight. Second one took a few minutes.

Normally £100 - £150.

Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍

Golf MK3 fuel tank Part number 1H0 201 075AR 55ltr tank with no restricted fuel neck 26mm From 1992 to 1997 Golf MK3 fuel tank 1H0 201 075AS 55ltr tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1992 to 1997 I think the Golf MK3 fuel tank/s are 55ltr only and can come with two different sized fuel neck diameters of 26mm and 22mm. Whereas the Corrado is available in 55ltr and 70ltr tanks and I think only has fuel neck diameter of 22mm. Hope this helps Si

Updated list: 1 ChrisL 2 Cressa 3 Robrado974 4 VW rule 5 Todge 6 1xshaunx1 7 VR6 South (potentially) 8 Ferny427 9 Corroda 10 Neil20vtc 11 Culshaw 12 Ferarrifeet 13 Dragon green 14 STU175 15 fendervg 16 jonnyHull 17 easypops 18 Erallus 19 James 20 blue95 21 volksworld13 22 spen 23 ger040 24 Keyo 25 g0ldf1ng3r 26 StueyB 27 Krishen 28 Mystic Rado 29 gotvach 30 edd (drivers side) 31 ben_wooduk (drivers side) 32 JamieG60Davison 33 Billzeebub 34 akacheesy 35 34jezr 36 Corrado16ved 37 kingKenny100 38 peacedub 39 kalzter 40 Storm Warning 41 1.8tCorrado 42 pfnsht 43 GUS 44 Timbo 45 Madnick 46 Carrots 47 gianlucavolt 48 ChrisDwyer 49 TimA 50 Duncan 51 1966robbo 52 stereomoe 53 branty 54 LikeaG60 55 Gublonge 56 EmGreenVR6 57 Jamie 57 is a decent amount, I’ll send the list to Classic Parts on Monday and start hassling them again.

Trying to ignore this the best I can.

can I ask why were supporting ebay. the majority of people wanting the calendar are either on here or the CCGB webpage / face book page.... id rather the CCGB have the ebay fees in their yearly accounts. I will take a look tomorrow on the 8th.

Quoted for truth. I think of the almost entirely positive community we had here.. then I look at some of the garbage people post on Facebook and on YouTube comments, etc.. it's like a different world!

The bolts and speed clips are still available from all good VW garages.

I have one if you are still looking?

Well done corrado brother always nice to see rados up there Sent from my SM-G357FZ using Tapatalk

Thank you Jim for the recommendation [emoji106] We are VW Audi Specialists based in Littlehampton West Sussex. All models of Corrado are a house speciality within our passion for all aspects of the VAG brand. We have worked with the G60 in particular since 1992 and offer all manner of works including, G charger rebuilds and Stage modifications. Please give us a call at our workshops to discuss your requirements, as it will be our pleasure to get your Dad's Corrado G60 roadworthy and ready in time for his birthday. Contact John at JMR Ltd 01903718684 I look forward to hearing from you. http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk Facebook, John Mitchell Racing

Corrado vr6 are 5x100 so in order to fit those wheels you would need adapters 5x100 to 5x120

Another vote for toad ai606, had 2 now and both absolutely spot on.

I hope everyone else out there is sitting with the lights off and just the odd candle dug out from under the sink.... M. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/video_and_audio/

Top tip Steve - thank you! Will order from there, rather than ECP then as it'll come out much cheaper. Though I'm now a little more less convinced it's the MAF. I took the car out this evening and prior to starting it up, pulled the MAF and it started at quite high revs (around 1200) and I could hear that same occasional pop / misfire once every couple of seconds. I reconnected the MAF and the revs came down a little but otherwise seemed the same. I decided enough of nannying the car tonight and did take it for a bit of a thrash without really wringing it's neck and it drove great - the engine pulls extremely well at all revs.. low down and higher up, though I never really took it past 5000RPM. Sounded lovely on song too - had forgotten just how good the VR6 sounds. There's definitely something not 100% and sure it's electrical rather than anything more sinister. It's just this noticeable, very slight misfire at idle, and also I find at lower revs and part throttle when driving at say 30MPH it feels a bit like.. not comfortable.. very slightly hesitant and a touch jumpy.. like it wants you to either be on the throttle or off the throttle and part throttle seems difficult for the car somehow? And lastly.. idle.. seems to take a LONG time to settle down to the lower VR6 idle speed of 650RPM.. it won't do it until the car is fully warmed up, and instead runs on a faster idle. And then when it has settled down to the correct idle, despite the revs being locked solid where they should be there's quite a lot of vibration into the cabin - like it 'feels' like the engine is misfiring a bit and you can feel it kicking through into the cabin. Will be interesting to stick the loan coil pack on and see if that improves how it feels. It does have this vague whiff of coil pack about it. Sorry for rambling on - just now having done the engine work, I'm on a bit of a crusade (or should that be folly!!) to sort out all the gremlins on the old girl and get her ship shape :)

Your assumption is correct, I am on the East coast; born and raised in Bronx, NY but currently reside in Manassas, VA. It would appear as if we have a similar taste in vehicles; my main project is a Mk1 Scirocco S1, I was hoping to have her done by August but life throws lemons at you sometimes.. I have learned to make lemonaid with them. I know all about the Chevy vs. Ford crap. Personally I admire any well made machine. In terms of recommendation, I still stand with the 2.8 Vr6. You can do a mild and cheap build, the sound and performance will keep you satisfied until you're ready for more. When the time comes, you can swap in a larger 3.6l Vr6, and the rest is yours. You can also throw guru bucks at it and convert it to AWD, I know one day I may consider that swap. Have you heard of the Lugtronic Stand alone engine management system? That is the last big purchase I need to make for my build. As far as the Turbo vs. SC goes; both make great power and are good for there purposes. If you are after the numbers, I recommend Turbo, if you are after drivibility, I recommend a SC. Depend on where you go, who you talk to, and what you read, you can find supporting arguments for both sides. A lot of people go after Turbos to get that Cherp sound or the sound of the dwindling down after hard acceleration but both hurt performance and, more importantly, can damage your turbo. I can speak on both forms of FI and N/A motors very well and honestly recommend both, based on build goals; just as long as they are being used appropriately. You seem to be on the right track and I don't doubt, for a second, you will be able to tackle this with ease. Researching is your best tool, use and abuse that sucker!

T6 - brown 6 pin connector 1 - G1/10 - G1/10 - Ignition live or ECU relay power, see notes below! 2 - G1/3 - G1/3 - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 3 - bin - - Use original wires for starter motor 4 - G2/9 - G2/9 - Permanent live to ECU 5 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live for lamda heater, MAF, carbon canister etc 6 - G1/8 - G1/8 - Fuel pump live, but normally this pin is unused anyway T10 - orange 10 pin connector 1 - to vag-com port - Diagnostics K line 2 - bin - - MPG signal 3 - G1/3 - !!!! - Fuel pump relay earth trigger 4 - - - 5 - - - 6 - W1 - W1 - from radio/dash plug W/1 Speed signal output from dash, need to have a GTI cluster or speed sender 7 - - - Aircon 8 - - - Aircon 9 - G1/12 - ! - Need rev counter adaptor for MK1/2 cluster, MSD 8920 works well 10- - - Use original wires for reverse switch T10w - white connector 1 - - - to vag-com port on AGU ecu. I have information that you put 12v to this wire when you want to flash the ECU but thats all the information I have currently! 2 - vag-com port -as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 3 - vag-com port - as is - CAN-BUS not needed for DBC ecu but wire it for DBW 4 - clutch pedal switch - - 5 - - - alternator pin DFM Only used on some models 7 - - - 8 - - - EPC fault lamp 9 - - - Crash signal 10- - - Emmissions fault lamp T10e - black 10 pin connector 1 - - - cruise control switch 2 - - - cruise control switch 3 - - - cruise control switch 4 - - - brake light switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 5 - - - cruise control brake switch Not sure if you need this or not i leave the wire spare behind fusebox just in case 6 - - - 7 - - - 8 - - - 9 - - - cruise control switch 10- - - T14a - 14-pin black connector 1 - G2/10 or G2/11 - !!! - Oil pressure switch, see notes below 2 - bin or direct to clocks G2/4 - !!!! - Ignition live feed for speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 3 - bin or direct to clocks G1/11 - !!!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer 4 - G2/3 - !!! - Coolant sender for dash 5 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for injectors 6 - Z/1 - z1 - Fuel pump live for other sensors on engine 7 - earth to battery - - Coilpack earth 8 - Z/1 - Z1 - E/14 (via male spade) Fuel pump live for injectors (5/6 cylinder engines) 9 - earth to battery or head - G1/5 -Earth for dash temp sender 10 - bin or direct to G1/11 - !!! - Signal from speed sender, unused unless you have electronic speedometer CLOCKS ^^^^or - - ! - X-over live, so only live with ignition NOT cranking, only on some diesels 11 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor ignition live feed 12 - - ! - Oil level/temp sensor to dash (only works MK4 cluster) 13 - fan control unit or fan after-run relay Power feed for electric coolant pump, only on 5/6 cylinder engines. so thats how mine is wired up as i write this and doesnt fire so just looking at this i think i need to read threads right first time haha o and it might be good to have a write up from the VR6 to 24V side if this a little over whelming so G1 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - T6 brown connector/2 + T10 orange connector/3 4 - 5 - T14a/9 (14 pin black connector) 6 - 7 - 8 - T6 brown/5 + T6 brown/6 9 - 10 - T6 brown/1 11 - 12 - T10 orange/9 G2 white connector 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - T6 brown/4 10 - 11 - 12 - Z1 power - T14a/5 + T14a/6 earth - T14a/9 well hope this helps people help me haha any clues in the right direction would be much appreciated cheers John

Optimum no rinse Mic. Lots of pro detailers use it or another no rinse prooduct in the height of summer, or when a hosepipe ban is in force. Have a read up on it. I cant say Ive ever used it tbh, but it does get rave reviews.

DavyDave: I've got a complete adjustable column plus the surround going spare - yours for nowt if you want it. Whereabouts are you? [edit: or accept Henny's offer! Don't mind either way, just drop me a PM if you want it.]

I would guess you'll need a new ignition barrel, ignition switch and possibly a new steering cowl. There are various sources for a new barrel and switch, there's a few ebay dealers that do them, or you could try somewhere like TPS if not your local VW dealer themselves... The steering cowls are more than likely obsolete now (try TPS though to see) so either a breaker on here or an ebay search is your best bet. HTH Mark

I wonder if some of the H&R/Koni's harshness is to do with the bump settings in the dampers because the H&R springs aren't that hard. Low and high speed bump (or compression) can't be adjusted unfortunately. You can only adjust the rebound. Just to remind folk of the different damper characteristics: Low speed bump - The damper compressing slowly: brake dive, turn-in, driving up a kerb, B road undulations etc High speed bump - The damper compressing quickly: Potholes, speed bumps, cats eyes etc. Rebound - The damper returning to it's static state. This is the one that makes the car feel more 'planted' and sporty. It's the setting we notice the most and is usually the only adjustment offered. Damper manufacturers would prefer that we trust their judgement on the bump settings, especially the high speed one, but KW do at least give you a low speed adjustment on the V3s. Personally I think user adjustment of high speed bump would solve a few crashiness issues, but in order to get 3 way adjustable kits, you're looking at the wrong side of £2500. But if you consider what some peeps spend on their Corrados on superficial stuff, personally, I'd rather sink more into getting the car to corner and ride properly. And just to reiterate, 'coilovers' (or ride height adjustable to use the correct term) as a configuration isn't crashy. They can be way softer than the standard setup if so desired. It's the technology and settings that determine the ride quality. Just thought I'd throw that in as many people automatically associate crashiness to coilovers. It's the cheap £250 ebay specials that give the configuration a bad name. I tend to think of suspension as a tailored suit vs an off the peg Moss Bros one.

Yes, I thought you wanted the base ! That's why I posted the above link. You will find most aerial's will fit

As an extra, I thought a video would help so people can see how I fitted mine. Have a look and tell me what you think!

Put a link up so to help people out in the future fella

Here's how mine sits on my 2.0 16v:

The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB

Do a trackday, legalise mo fo

bought myself some new coilpacks from tps, not cheap but better than being off the road again. Ill fit all new ones to the car and keep one use one as a spare and sell the others on. Struggled to get a heated seat loom so Ive got the parts to make one up instead.