Leaderboard

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Brilliant, I can’t wait to see this. Looks like weather behaved as well 🙂.

Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.

Generally speaking that how prices do increase, someone gets ambitious, an another undercuts a bit and the prices roll up because of it. It happened with the Corrado over the last 5 years, speculators are now stopping enthusiasts owning the cars of their youth.

Not sure what that relay is that your using, The best fuel pump relay to use is 191 906 383 C Pin3 on connecter G1 behind the fuse box is the trigger signal wire from the ECU which goes to pin85 on the fuel pump relay, pin86 on the same relay goes to a switched live (when key is turned) I’ve seen you been messing about with your fuel pump so unplug it first then check all fuel pump relay connections.

As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with

There is a guy that has remade various parts, including the full rebuild sets. Pretty sure he’s only doing a certain amount of parts then they’ll be gone

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

Says sold- but if you want similar I have a set for sale; with or without hump in rear depending on whether your car is vr or 16v

Late bulged bonnet. Late wider arched front wings. Late bumper - body line goes straight and tapers out. Late headlamp again Rear arches are the same early and late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is what I had from back in the day: 357 919 369F - sensor for fan - in thermostat housing x 1 357 121 210 - plastic fan cowling x 1 1H0119137A - aux radiator fan belt x 1 171 121 276D - rubber washer for radiator x 2 N 903 059 01 - front bumper mounting bolts x 4 so 357 121 210 is the fan ring, I only needed one at the time - 357 means it's also used on the Passat, and I see some references to Seat Toledo etc.

Just seen these at Heritage, got to be a good thing for us, instead of being ripped off in a bidding war

Could be the motor on the fan too

i hate them too! Mine are all nicely greased but the drivers side on seems to struggle in the middle for some reason. I would do the following: Pop off the white base rollers, clean and grease. Use a light grease Clean the centre channel on which the main slider slides. I would use either a heavy oil or again some light grease here Finally, make sure the two side channels are clear - use a piece of cloth to remove any loose debris. Clean and spray with a silicone spray. If its still the same, you'll prob need to take the motor mech out, clean it and grease it up again. Not fun. But hopefully the first few steps should sort it Hasan

as luck would have it there is one spare loom available as he made an extra one it would be £83 posted & is as the other with OE connectors all round pls let me know if you would like it 🙂

Get one whilst you can wont be long they will be up to to Mk1 GTI prices - yes private road on my Great uncle Barnicales in the Highlands of Scotland ha.

i have always run Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 in my VR6 - i buy it from Opie Oils online it is expensive but fully synthetic & one of the best out there

Also I'm thinking of running BKR5EKUP plugs, any different recommendation? I pu those in mine, very happy with them 👍

Meanwhile I am more interested in headlights, fog lights and turn signals. That gives more pleasure than plastic. This also resulted in cooperation with other well-known manufacturers such as Spoonfed and VX. From a technical point of view, almost anything is possible when renewing headlamps. However, until now I still depend on used OEM parts for the most part. If you want more information about this: http://www.vwcorrado-forum.de/mbb/showthread.php?tid=46425

This was followed step by step by larger plastic parts. Unfortunately of course primarily LHD parts. For example: Number plate holder in European or American design 535813990 535813989. Frame for additional displays for early types 535 858 203. Air intakes as replacement for defective fog lights. Door sill plates 535 853 813 A.

Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Golf MK3 fuel tank Part number 1H0 201 075AR 55ltr tank with no restricted fuel neck 26mm From 1992 to 1997 Golf MK3 fuel tank 1H0 201 075AS 55ltr tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1992 to 1997 I think the Golf MK3 fuel tank/s are 55ltr only and can come with two different sized fuel neck diameters of 26mm and 22mm. Whereas the Corrado is available in 55ltr and 70ltr tanks and I think only has fuel neck diameter of 22mm. Hope this helps Si

Oh Keyo, all this extreme negativity, he didn’t want advise on a concourse show wining, body job cost estimate 😂😂😂😂

No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.

Well the new retro line they cost silly money like 4 K a set as I spoke to the UK dealer in Recaro. There is a seller on ebay from Poland who will supply and trim a set of LS that look exactly the same and reckons he can sort out the seat bases none electric - at the end of it wont be far off a set of stock Recaro seats and will be none electric- although they will be brand new and don't have to worry about the electrics failing. Also can supply heating for not much extra cost. Here is the guy in Poland and if you look through the pictures the orange ones are just like the recaro . Any colour or material. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RECARO-LS-LSb-seats-the-Pair-Leather/264529584394?hash=item3d9731210a:g:kq8AAOSwSK9dyWxf

Finally back in the car. Secured and sealed up. A difficult part was lining it up against the heater directional box. It was catching the hot to cold flap, which I turned to hard!!! So lesson to all, take your time and you won't have to reset the dash controls. Since working it out the Hot to Cold flap now turns incredibly smoothly. There is however no way of securing the two units together, so I used a tyrap to hold it up and in line, some sticky sponge to seal and close the gap, then gaffa tape all around. A very efficient system now. Fingers crossed that I can get it pressure tested soon and that it won't leak....... Be interesting to see if this converted mk4 golf evaporator does the job, especially after all this time and money.

Not seen one for a very long time. In fact the last one I saw (in any form) was the one featured on the cover of Autocar. It came up for sale about 2008. Was in Blackpool and was in really rough shape. I had my eye on it, but as much as I wanted a press car to add to the family, it was just too far gone. In fact, If I remember the advert correctly, his wife bought it for him as a project off ebay. Once he saw the state of the cills/arches he fell out with the idea (It certainly put me off). It was also a time when early 16vs (without an MOT) were changing hands for £300+. And ones in good order £1000+ So not much interest in putting the effort in. Running a check of their regs in the MOT checker looks like they've all been SORN (broken for parts ?) for at least 6 years.

Yeah I do. I love cleaning my balls and then whacking them really hard.

They do crop up every now and again. You're looking at around £750-850 for a full leather interior inc door cards. I too was looking for a leather interior and a couple have come up over the last year to give you an idea. I've decided against leather though as I don't have air-conditioning and used to own a car with leather without air-con and it was a sticky sweat fest in summer! Instead, and sharing for options yourself, I thought I'd get my cloth recovered with some plaid/tartan trim or something period correct in the centres and go leather on the side bolsters. Other alternatives can be to fit Audi TT fron seats (c £150) but some fabrication is needed. Or source some recaro's from another car (c £200-300) and trim and fabricate a base. Or source some real Corrado recaro's but they are £1500-2000 which is just plain redicilous given the value of the Corrado compared to other modern classics these other recoro's come out of.

Only just noticed this thread, the linkage on my wife's corrado went about a year ago and I used one of the clips that you posted above wipers still work great and the car gets used daily

Give them a call on 01273 444000 Think they're open tomorrow? Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Many thanks for your kind words - It's only because of the forum and the helpful, kind and supportive people that I've been able to make the progress I have - the number of stupid 'what does this do' type emails I've sent and 'please help' requests has been quite embarrassing but always well recieved. This forum (the people) has genuinely inspired me and made me feel I had the support when I needed to reach out for advice or parts (during what would otherwise been a very difficult time for me personally). I've learnt a fair bit in 7/8 weeks and look forward to continuing with my corrado journey. I have a 1986 xr2 in similarly bad condition that one day I also hope to 'save'..... Thanks again....

Anytime chris,I will pop and see you in the summer at some point...maybe in my Rallye if I can pull my finger out and finish it.

Hi everyone, not new to VW or Corrado's but time to give the old girl sone TLC and get some advice from all you experts 😊 This is my 2nd corrado VR6 and I've owned 3 mk3 Golf VR's and 2 mk4 GTI TDI 25TH Anniversarys over the years. Sold my old Corrado to my buddy @fishmaestro and he helped secure a tidy blackberry VR for me coming home from a couple of years overseas. Living in East Lothian Scotland and can honestly say I've only seen 2 other Corrado's since returning 18months ago. Maybe I'm not getting out enough, although the good one's are definitely getting harder to come by! Not got too much planned at the moment but I've spent the last few months trying to source a decent set of 16" BBS RX 5x100 to no avail. Any help would be much appreciated! Also looking to replace wing mirror glass as edges are tarnished, is there a how to thread on here? Last thing I'm looking to do with the weather change is a windscreen wiper/wiper arm upgrade, do people still recommend the Lupo GTI ones? Looking forward to learning some tips and sharing some pics n progress! Cheers, Matt

Welcome. The best colour :D

Spoke to someone called Moses. Friendly chap and managed to sort me out a much better price than any one else so thanks guys. Saved over £130.

I believe you can use something along the lines of: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC2-805-Volkswagen-Speaker-Adaptor-Lead-Cable-Stereo-CD-/150566801843?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160 You may find this item much cheaper somewhere else thought.

Got my pair today, very nice model and panels seem metal not plastic, one for the desk the other to keep for spares!

People will tell you a grand for the interior as a full setup with door cards etc But in the current clim you won't get that For example everyone say a schrick vgi is worth £850ish but the last 2 I have seen sold for £500 and £600 so well off £850

Ok buddy, no problem. Let me know which light and I'll knock a bit off the total price for buying more than one item. I'll let you know a sensible postage price also. Hi Gaz, Can you let me know what the bolt looks like and I'll have a dig around for them. Noted also about the clocks, I'll let you know if Ste doesn't have them. Always willing to do deals on multiple purchases guys or make offers if the price set is wrong.

I know mate, I'm not going to put myself out for 'maybes'. People can do basic maths and figure I dunno, perhaps a 10% discount on 10 sets, 15% on 20 sets and so on. So 10% off stands you at $400, x 1.23 for UK duty and VAT = £302. Shipping from the US and UK mainland on top. So if people decide ~ £350ish all in is going to be too much, they can duck out. Perhaps it's just a sign of the times. We sold over a 100 sets over two GBs last time! Anyway, I have asked Bill for pricing on 10, 20, 30 sets etc. And yep, I was also thinking it could be done through Stealth as they have the buying power and accounts already in place and can also include a mapping deal as you say!

U1/6 will be at the fuse box in the footwell not engine bay.that green wire should go to the old digifant ecu.Have you not removed it?

I have just put a deposit down on a classic green storm! It needs a few bits doing to it cosmeticaly but nothing serious and everything works after 140,000 miles! It has also had alot of money spent on it recently at tsr perfomance the vw specialist. I cant wait to get it back home and start giving it some tlc! Anyway here are some pics

A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.

As i've said before, yes it's dearer to buy lamda probes from the dealers but if you have a problem with it it guarenteed for two years. i'd rather have that personaly.