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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

So, not sure how many will remember this car from many years ago on this forum. anyway, the new owner of StormchargedVR6’s corrado asked me if I’d be interested in doing an underneath and engine bay resto / cleanup of the storm. being a long term fan of this car, I couldn’t refuse. It’s now on 24k miles so really low mileage and a stunning car

Getting close, so well done. And change the brakes later, just get it out and enjoy it. It owes you 👌

I think it is a mixture of factors too. I've done more testing and whilst it is good 5-10-20 mins after, so far more useable, but if i leave it for 30/40 mins I get the same problem. It always starts but interesting how the time frames have shifted. Perhaps points to time worn compenents. Thinking back to my white car, although fault seemingly solved it did have a few occassions where it would crank longer than expected though more than 9 our of 10 times it was fine.

Hell yea! Keep us updated. Can't wait to see if it works

Totally agree, looks worth the money. Can only help Corrado prices 🤞 GLWS

Great looking motor and price. Too much for me but I am sure someone will put it in their garage. I always enjoy an advert for a standard car and then read the tasteful modifications

Looks like you've lucked out there, the Recaros are rare and highly sought after! Back is definite Corrado, but the first aid kit doesn't look OEM. OEM would have VAG branding on it somewhere I think. From memory VW used various different kits so hard to say what an original is (Although I might be thinking of the warning triangles), so I don't think it's something to be particularly concerned with.

That is shame but at least it sounds like you'll get closure on that car. Pleased to see you're still going to get one and I will keep an eye I've been through pain of resto and bodywork etc and would recommend avoiding all that hassle and buying a good one straight off. Im not normally someone to worry about mileage (155k on mine) but concede in the UK market people would sooner by a ropey 100k car over a well sorted to 155k, so if I were doing it again I'd be aiming for sub 120k miles, great body and make sure it had leather (cost me a £grand to make that happen which on top of bodywork and engine work makes for an expensive game and a car that will never be worth its cost..). The engine can be sorted at say Stealth racing but the rest of the mechanicals (apart from ABS) is boggo mk3 golf so anyone can do it. All the best and keep us posted on outcomes of the old car. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

No worries bud glad to help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What I normally do is cut off the original metal crimp and remove old rubber hose, then slip a brass fuel ferrule inside the rigid nylon hose which will prevent it crushing when you place your new rubber hose over the rigid hose then crimped with a stainless crimp or similar, this way ensures maximum fuel flow through the joint.

The current wheels suit the car imo

Hi , My mate has a well sorted Alpine White VR in Leicester for sale- has a very nice black leather interior to - stealth looked after the car for him and has many new parts. Send me a pm and I can pass on you his details if your interested .

Generally speaking that how prices do increase, someone gets ambitious, an another undercuts a bit and the prices roll up because of it. It happened with the Corrado over the last 5 years, speculators are now stopping enthusiasts owning the cars of their youth.

As for the alarm, trace each wire and remove it. Join back any that have been interrupted by the Gemini system. Then see what you are working with

Guarantee it’s the slave

Oooo nice pic. We love freshly painted items more than xmas 😂

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

Finally fitted a stainless washer to the ARB drop link. Hopefully if it ever fails it can not spin round and rip my CV boot, again. I love preventative maintenance .Top tip Just need to do the other side sometime

It's CCK068: HEL Performance Braided FULL LENGTH Clutch Line Volkswagen Corrado (1989-1995) | eBay HEL Braided Clutch Line Hose VW Corrado Master Cylinder Slave 89-95 CCK068 Y3305 for sale online | eBay Volkswagen Corrado All Engines (1989-1995) Flexible Braided Master Cylinder to Slave Cylinder Clutch Line | Corrado | Volkswagen | Clutch Lines | Braided Lines | Car (helperformance.com) Oddly, didn't find it on their website when I first looked, but must just have missed it. Only difference from the standard fit is that I don't think it will clip into the first clip after the master cylinder as that will put too much of a bend in the line. Should be able to get the grommet off the original and slide it on so that it clips into the bracket welded to the side of the chassis near the battery tray. I'll take a photo when it's on the car to illustrate.

Sounds like a decent plan there. The bolts that go through the brackets in to the bushes can foul on the sill lip, so removing with the brackets in place makes sense. Dropping the back where the brakes mount onto some lumber is good, though it doesn't go down all the way to the floor when the rear suspension is removed anyway. Put a jack under the cross section at the front, remove all the bolts then lower it down from there. It's not as heavy as you'd think, so should be easy enough to manoeuvre out.

i have always run Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5w-40 in my VR6 - i buy it from Opie Oils online it is expensive but fully synthetic & one of the best out there

Dox is the man for getting the background on any car!

You can buy it as the whole kit but not cheap. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/535845100-windscreen-moulding-trim-set-4-piece.html

Speaking for the later ones If you’ve ever had different model ones and compared them they are all pretty much the same, the VR6 one just has a little bracket welded on. I just got a later one and welded my old ones extra bracket on. Moving on to the earlier models I’m betting if you get any early one you will be able to make it work for the G60 as they are pressed with a variety of holes not just 2 specific to your model

7 month break, it will be great to have it back. Enjoy

Hello there, yes you can fit Corrado VR6 70ltr fuel tank into Corrado's with 4 cyl engine's and vice versa, the early Corrado's had the 55ltr fuel tank, then in 1992 the tank volume was increased to 70ltr. The problem you're going to have is the fuel pressure, as the 16v as you already know has two fuel pumps, low pressure lift pump in tank roughly 3 bar of pressure, then high pressure fuel pump under car in swirl pot, which pumps at 5.2 to 5.6bar for KR 16v or 6.1 to 6.6 bar for 9A 16v, the 16v injection system is multipoint but is mechanical injection, final fuel delivery is via fuel distributor, which is controlled by fuel differential pressure governor/regulator, if the high pressure fuel pump doesn't deliver pressure as stated above, then the fuel injectors won't open as they need the correct specified pressure range. The VR6 injection system including the 2.0 16v ABF only have the one fuel pump in fuel tank, pump pressure is roughly between 3 and 4 bar, this system again is multipoint injection but has electrically operated injectors, that receive signals via ECU. I think you can possibly fit a MK3 Golf fuel tank into a MK2 Golf, but I've read on other forums the filler neck doesn't quite line up fully with fuel flap opening, but then others have said they fit fine, so regarding MK3 Golf tank into Corrado yes it may well be possible but how well it'll fit I'm not sure. But like I say you'll still need the high pressure fuel pump under car for your K-jet 16v injectors, unless you're able to fit high pressure pump in tank. MK3 Golf with VR6 (AAA) and 2.0 16v (ABF) I think use same fuel tank as the ABF fuel pump is very similar to VR6. Corrado fuel tank Part number 535 201 075H Length 910mm Width 630mm Height 620mm 55 litre tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol From 1988/89 to 1992 (weight 6 kg) Corrado fuel tank Part number 535 201 075AB / 535 201 075AE Length 950mm Width 630mm Height 615mm 70 litre tank with narrow fuel neck 22mm for unleaded petrol. From 1992/93 to 1995/96 (weight 9.5 kg) Hope this helps Si

Cheers Much appreciated.

been really slack on the corrado lately , picked up a boot lid to refurb over the winter and almost lost the will with sanding them damn alloys! got a few done and looks pretty damn good! still need to finish them off but im in no rush, in the mean time iv had an itch for a mk4 golf v6 4motion for ages and finally brought one last weekend, already getting stuck in and getting the crap done out the way! have a couple of electrical issues to sort which is lighting up the traction control light despite that there lovely to drive! very smooth and quiet, with the standard exhaust upon start up you can hear the VR pur and accelerating its just a refined quiet vr noise but very subtle!

Corrados never had wiper motor covers, peeps just put them on to make them look a bit nicer.

Well, after seeing the wheeler dealers episode i might buy the sub £2k corrados, do a bit of soldering and change an oil cooler and sell them on for £4k :lol:

Nice VR mate, love the colour, really suits the Corrado. Rog.

Corrado looks nice, that sportline looked a beaut too. I used to have a red sportline a few years ago.

Looks a lovely example . Welcome along to the forum .

he's had 10 years to sort it,hopefully should be done by now!!

Yeah I know what you mean. The AUE engine has 4 'teeth' on the cam trigger wheel, which is known as 'quick start'. It means the engine start on any cylinder. The 12V needs to sync to TDC on cyl 1 before it can fire, which is a bit inefficient. All part of EU emissions bollards. Anyway, said trigger is the left one. The 12V ECU won't understand the signal from it. It's more used to a single tooth as seen on the right sprocket. Maybe you can modify the right sprocket to take a 12V magnet disc under the bolt? You will also need to machine a hole into the 24V side casing and space it correctly. About 1mm should do it. The torque starts winding off at 4500rpm ish IIRC. Buy yourself a power probe! Invaluable bit of kit for this sort of thing. I'm not sure a complete Corrado wiring diagram exists anywhere other than the official ELSA books / PDFs, but KipVR on here might know. He did all the wiring himself. Yep, I do. I ran my Audi 3.2 engine with a DTA S80 and one of their DBW boxes. I think the K6 has DBW built in, which is dead handy. I would not waste your time and money on a custom loom. You will not get better quality than the original loom and you know it's reliable because it worked in the donor car for years. All you need to do is cut off the VAG plugs and connect the wires to the Emerald plugs. Then it's just simply a case of finding a suitable switched live and earth and the rest of the wiring is all Corrado, which I would not rip out personally, again, because it's worked for years. Don't fix what isn't broken ;) To figure out what wire went where, I just had the DTA ECU pin wiring diagram in front of me and I end-to-end tested the stock loom to figure out the wires. It's pretty easy, you just follow the colours back to the plug, cut em off, stick the Emerald pins on them and slot them into the Emerald's plug housing. I ran mine with full intake VVT (exhaust not worth it), stock coils, DBW, intake flap, the lot and it ran really well. None of the annoying ARMD torque management maps that VAG use. Just pulled hard everywhere with zero flat spots. Good luck! It's not hard, just take your time and be methodical and you'll be fine. This is the end result. Standalone bolted into the OEM location (using 12V ECU cradle) and OEM 3.2 loom terminated with standalone plugs. It doesn't get any simpler or neater than that ;)

Correct assumption Campaign , it's very much a Glasgow thing, eternally optimistic :)

Green vr6 L270VLT parked up . 5mins away from me buddy CARMEL LLANELLI S.WALES You used to have an 8v in purple

thats pants, great you got it back possibly soon.

Aluminium shifts heat better than steel too, so oil temp should be a little lower. Shame it's not finned!

Already well on the case with the fuel filler modification, think I mentioned it in the first post when I outlined the plans. The 1Z doesn't have an in-tank fuel pump at all, the engine driven injector pump acts as the lift pump on its own but I'm going to retain the 8V in-tank pump anyway. I've devised a modification to the fuel lines to allow any excess fuel to return to the tank before it reaches the injector pump (basically a stepped 'H' fitting in the feed and return lines). I'll describe it better once I've built it :) Supercharged - I'd be really interested in seeing some pictures of your TDi if at all possible? Cheers Tom

Hi mate. As for the check sum I think there is 2 different methods. As follows: If you have an ECU with an immobiliser, you cannot change the value at the checksum location or the car will just run for 2 seconds and cut out. What I did was change the values just above the checksum to make it match, originally the unused memory above the checksum are all 02's. As I put bigger injectors in I had reduced allot of the values which meant I only had to add the difference, therefore this only meant changing a few 8bit values. In my immobilised ecu the checksum is at location 0xEF00. The principal of the check sum is that it is simply a 16bit value that is the accumulated total of all the 8bit values before it. PM me your email and I'll send you the XDF that I have modified to calculate the checksum, its for the CP ecu which will be different but the calculation principal will be that same as long as you can locate the checksum and the range it covers. To view the XDF info go to XDF->view/edit XDF header info, click on the "checksum tab" and then click 'Edit Selected' As for the un-immobilised ECU's I've couldn't say for sure but I think you can just change the checksum value so it's simply a matter of locating it. On the AG ECU I remapped I could never locate the checksum so never bothered with it, it just gives a VAG-COM error but runs as normal.

Last year I replaced all brake pipes right up to the ABS unit under the bonnet. The only original pipes are now under the bonnet (ABS to master cylinder etc.). I got all the bits from http://www.automec.co.uk. I bought their "Universal Light" flaring tool I think it was, which was around £100 but it's a lovely piece of equipment which makes great beautiful flares on your pipes. It's a lot of money but even if I only used it once it's paid for itself. You can get hand-held flaring tools much cheaper but in my experience, the force needed to make excellent flares is too great for a hand held tool. The Automec flaring tools are used in a vice. Hand held tools allow you to do a pipe in situ though, but I don't think that's really necessary or advisable. I bought the normal copper pipe from them. Some people prefer the copper nickel as opposed to the standard copper as it's harder, but that just makes it much harder to bend, so I opted fro the standard copper. It's advisable to get a bending tool too from the same website, as although you can easily bend copper by hand, there are places you'll want a tight bend. Their basic bending tool isn't very expensive. You may want to also buy the deburring tool to clean up the cut pipe. Oh yes, you'll need a pipe cutter too. I got one from a website that a guy on here started I think. The name escapes me, but any adjustable copper pipe cutter will do. I think B&Q even sell them. My original brake pipes failed the MoT and I'm actually glad the guy did it. I really like the MoT guy who does my car. He really likes the car, squeezes us (me and my dad) in to his schedule when he recognises the car on the phone and doesn't fail it on trivia that you can't prove otherwise. When I saw the pipes I was actually shocked. Also, my brake hoses were bulging at points. If you're going to replace your brake lines and your hoses are old too, then I would just get the full set of 6. I got mine from GSF but others prefer Goodridge braided hoses. Incidentally, you've got virtually no chance of removing the unions from the old pipe anyway, as they will be corroded on. The best way to remove the old pipes is with bolt cutters. Try to catch the fluid with newspaper. Fitting the new pipes around the car is surprisingly easy. Some bits are a bit tough because you have to get it behind heat shields for the exhaust, but be systematic and it's no problem. You may have to use cable ties to secure them to places as the original plastic clips will likely have broken off. It's a good idea to 'seal' the brake reservoir with cling film, then put the lid on as this helps to minimise leakage and prevent the complete emptying of the system. Another tip is to make a sort of plug with one of your new unions and a hammered down small piece of copper pipe (flared at the union, obviously) and place this temporarily in the ABS unit for the particular pipe you are replacing. This again helps to minimise leakage and air ingress. You need to watch with the unions, as most are the standard M10 male unions for German cars, but one of them is an M12. I'm not quite sure why this is but I think it's to ensure that you fit the pipes back in the same order. So you'll need to buy M10 unions and a couple of M12 (if you want to make an M12 temporary plug too) unions from Automec. All in all, I replaced all four brake lines right back to the ABS unit, all new brass unions (lovely quality), bought a brake flaring tool, cutter, bending tool and deburrer, with new copper pipe and new flexible hoses for probably around £150-170. Something like that. Most of the cost is the tools, but you'll always have them. Also, when you make the flares up, take care to make the right one. VWs use what I think they call a single flare, whereas the tool can make single or double. Basically, just read the instruction carefully and compare your flare with those on the original pipes and you can't go wrong. It's very important to remove burrs though before flaring as they WILL leak if you don't do this. Oh, another thing. You will likely want to replace the brake pressure compensation valve which is attached to the rear suspension and reduces braking pressure on the rear as the car tilts forward (to prevent rear wheel lock under heavy braking). Mine was original and was totally gubbed and just about seized. If you're replacing all your pipes then just get a new one of these. They are not that expensive if bought on the Internet. Be careful to note which pipes went where (there are two inlets and two outlets). After bleeding the air out, check very carefully for fluid leaks. New fluid is harder to see because it's clean. I had a very minor leak which was cured by tightening it up. I was worried about over tightening them and deforming the flare. Just remembered, you might want to get a brake pipe spanner. I'd buy one from Halfords for this. The Automec one is very cheap and not really up to it. One more thing, the hardest bit with the fronts is probably getting it through the sidewall of the engine bay. There's a rubber grommet that you need to remember to put on the pipe BEFORE doing the final flare. Likewise you need to remember to put the unions on the pipe BEFORE doing the last flare, otherwise you'll need to cut the pipe again to get them on! Aligning the pipe through to the engine bay, with this grommet such that it doesn't rub and follows the rough path of the old pipe can be tricky. Lasty(!) the size of pipe is 3/16".

I finally bought a pair of new wing mirror glasses at the weekend, whilst fitting them I noticed neither mirror would adjust. It has always been a bit hit and miss, one day they work then they don't. Eventualy one side started to work, but nothing from the other. I thought it was the adjustment mechanism, but it was not. After a lot of sodding around with the mirror mechanisms with no improvement I took the switch out of the drivers door, and took it apart. Mines a late car but I would imagine the same could easily apply to early ones too. Basically there is a small printed circuit board which the moving contacts of the switch have to connect to. The copper on the board was very dirty with what looked like burnt on grease all over it. Using brasso I polished the contacts up to a bright shiny finish. I reassembled the switch and both mirrors now work perfectly! This took half an hour to do, and I highly recommend giving it a go if your mirrors do not adjust.