Leaderboard

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Good luck Dougie. Mine is booked in end of the month for a proper alignment with rear shims and camberbolts and changing clutch master and slave. Horrible to drive at the moment due to bad alignment.

Hi all, i thought it was high time i shared my G60 build with you . This car is now completed so the thread updates aren't in real time so its a copy and paste exercise for the most part but i will try to keep to thread updated in the future . Thanks for reading . Okay so back in 2020 i already had a G60 in black as a project bought on a bit of a whim and which needed quite a bit of work ! Always on the hunt for parts for it i had bought a few random parts off a uk ebay seller , by chance i spotted in one of his pictures the faintest outline of a what looked like a fairly complete car in red. enquired what the story with it and i turned out that this was the car he was breaking the parts for sale off !! Turns out he had owned the car since 2001 and had embarked on a semi refresh of the underside of the car not long after purchasing it ,the usual jobs ,subframe ,rear beam ,wishbones blasted and powdercoated ,new supsension etc. only it seems like he had bitten off more than he could chew ,along with a very small workspace ( see below )it just seemed to have gotten the better of him and he lost interest in it . Years later he starting selling of bits of the car gradually on ebay where i came across him. He was willing to sell off the remains of the car so a deal was done , i bought the whole lot sight unseen ,i was taking a bit of a chance on it but the cost of the new spare parts that came with it alone was worth the asking price.

Hi. No problem, better late than never 😉. So this car tinkering time you speak of, do you have enough to share around ? Looking forward to more updates 🫡

That looks fine. 👌 Does the job and is protected

I asked in VWVortex like Popeye775 said and the first answer said yes it is factory.

There was a short write up from Chris de Bono in the Autumn 1996 edition of Sprinter followed by the for sale advert in the Summer 1997 edition. I seemed to remember seeing photos in colour at the time but guess they must have been somewhere else. Dusty Mauve.pdf Campaian.pdf

Looks immachttps://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155661035229?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3Df316b4877e9f4f779d675eb8bf24e0bc%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D155661035229%26itm%3D155661035229%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042ulate, 58K miles £24,000

I have been back a few times, but really struggling with this not being able to go to next page malarky! Hope everyone is well! Anyway, progress has been made! Both cars now have their heart removed, the Golf need its engine bay cleaned up, then the engine install shall commence! Watch this space 🙂 I shall also keep a track of the build on my instagram ejtaylor22 for anyone interested! Ill be back soon!

You’d be a fool to sell that….

Sad ending, but time for a new relationship and get yourself another

I do find that once I've thrown my toys out once and stepped away from it, a few days/weeks break usually brings the interest back. James you're very right about replacements though. I've also got a Yaris T sport, great fun and quite economical too. But what I'd get for the money I'd sell it for wouldn't be half as fun...or useful. The Corrado really does tick several boxes though - rare, stylish, great street presence etc without the constant fear i know i would have were i to have a porsche or aston instead Hasan

Parked my car at the local farm shop earlier then stood drooling over a 997 GT3 a few spaces down before I nipped in the shop. When I come out there’s a guy stood looking at the Corrado, “Love the car” he says, goes on to tell me he wanted one in the day but never had one etc etc. I get in to leave and he gets in his GT3, wish I’d realised, he might have done a straight swap!!!

I made mine “quick release” so much easier to check the fluids

If it has auto closure alarm check the fuses for the alarm system

Your boss looks the same as my momo one. The black wire with the female came with the boss and I made the blue wire to plug into the connections on my horn and boss metal disc as you have. As you can see the steering wheel it is for is also a momo. If you only have one terminal/wire coming out of each horn button they must be earthed through the horn buttons already to the steering wheel and you just need to plug those wires into your female black wire to give it it’s positive feed. test it with a battery and a couple of wires the wires coming from the steering wheel to positive through a test bulb/light and a negative wiring touching the steering wheel itself. Push the button and the test light should light up. My brass disk is also pushed in similar to yours

Not the best quality but hopefully you can see how they clip on.

I deleted an obvious spam attempt this morning. Watch out because the spammers will try to brute a moderator account to approve the post if they can - I had three attempts and lock outs over night. Maybe a good time to change your moderator passwords and make sure they are of a decent strength and complexity.

Unfortunately the 535 at the beginning means it is a Corrado specific part - the first three digits indicate the Medellin number. Maybe it would be possible to remove the mount from a car that is being broken for parts if the bonding is not too strong?

😂😂 great post. GLWS

Welcome to the forum and congrats! Looks tidy that. I do like a sherry pearl I've got to admit! 👍

I know it's messy. But i went through organised and labeled a few of the obvious issues. Such as loose vacuum lines etc.. (Please remember that I am without an ECU, not that I really have a vacuum line to currently stretch to it) Most of what has been done is undocumented from well in 15 Years ago. Will also try to get it running to the best of my ability when the ECUs Arrive back.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The best thing to do chap is put the part number on ebay or google and see what manufactures come up . I hate Topran because I had an oil cooler fail after 500 miles use and had to flush out the whole system- the internal cooler wept oil into the hoses- cured with a Hella cooler from Murrays direct on ebay . Also I see Heritage sell a JP fuel pump for a VR for £300 and something which is the incorrect bar and also more than a stock VDO pump- I don't take anything for granted they offer or say and have a few run ins and told the sales person wrong you can get it- thats is incorrect your not reading the diagram correctly etc - embarrassing to be honest. P,s the owner of VW International if you have an issue can take it personally they are only a small business.

up

For a G60 I would highly recommend John Mitchell / JMR based in Littlehampton on the south coast. Website is here: http://www.johnmitchellracing.co.uk/ Alternatively, I think The Phirm are very well regarded too. They are in Camberly: http://www.thephirm.co.uk/

It's a 1995 M plate in LC6U green ( I think that's the right paint code) it's got full black leather with heated seats, it's even got the original matts front and back and the sunroof works! I've done loads to it since I got in in November, it's had all new fluids, brake callipers, disks and pads all round. A full service with new spark plugs, leads and a coil pack as it had got a big split in the side of it. The throttle body and Maff have been off and cleaned and I also changed the sump and gasket as it was "weeping" a bit. The idle's not brilliant on it at the minute but I'm working on that and it's being Terra Cleaned next Saturday so hopefully that will clean the injectors. The front fogs were completely gone due to the heat so I have changed them for the JOM ones you can buy from Germany and there absolutely brilliant and well worth the money. The paints a little tired where it's just been left with years of dust on it and the garage it was in was only small so it's been knocked a bit, from a distance it looks immaculate but within a meter you can tell so I had someone out Thursday so price up to paint it which I'll have done in July/August time. The forum is really good as I like reading and it tells you where to look for problems, one I found was where dirt gets trapped behind the fuel filler neck and corrodes the body out. I've taken the fuel tank out (really quite easy) and cleaned POR 15 any rust, stone chipped and repainted all the wheel arches in the original body colour, looks brand new but without the forum I wouldn't know where to look. I've also changed the suspension to coil overs as the originals were as rusty as hell plus is lowered the car just that bit. Really enjoying the challenge.. Sorry going on a bit now..

It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.

Cheers Much appreciated.

thanks will take a look

You're making nice progress with this. I had both my grille badges black on my vr. Thought it looked good.

Nice VR mate, love the colour, really suits the Corrado. Rog.

he's had 10 years to sort it,hopefully should be done by now!!

It might be useful to remove the loose connector (again!), check for any arcing and perhaps some pitting of either the connector spades or the panel spades. Give them a clean to remove any oxidation, and refit.

Sorry mate front seats have gone

There's only one thing for it - lysholm charger :norty:

From speaking to some audio enthusiasts and experts very recently on this subject, essentially the advice was quite loudly to forget about the rear 6x4's. They're too small to make any meaningful contribution to your sound setup in the car - so just put some new / reasonable replacements in of any brand, and concentrate on the soundstage up front.

The set-up is described in the Bentley manual - if you haven't got it, I'll scan the relevant page and send it (assuming I can work out how to attach it to the reply !!). I had precisely the same problem and symptoms of jerky off-throttle slow running. This is what I did; 1. Replaced throttle damper and set it up as per Bentley. This made some difference. 2. Cleaned out ISV and made sure there were no air leaks on induction side. 3. Did a basic settings to ensure that the throttle position sensor was coordinated with the ECU. This helped too, but not completely. 4. Got a good second-hand MAF; (they are not necessarily goood just because the engine doesn't stall if you disconnect it at idle.) Make sure the connector and the platinum wire are clean, and check the wiring for continuity back to the ECU. This was a further improvement, but still had occasional stalling when de-clutching from over run conditions (like throttle closed going downhill). 5. Disconnect 42 pin connector on the side of the cylinder head (with the ignition OFF !!), clean pins and socket with contact cleaner and re-seat the connector. This significantly improved idle and general running. The electrics for all the injectors and for the ISV go through here so any bad connections are bad news. 6. Had all injectors ultrasonically cleaned and filters replaced. FINALLY !! Perfect idle, no stalling, greatly improved starting and fuel economy. For good measure also put in a new set of standard issue NGK spark plugs. The difference is like night and day - it will trickle through traffic in 4th gear with no snatching and surging and, best of all, no stalling at junctions. Try these. In the meantime, I'll try to remember to send you the damper set-up procedure RB

Hey hey, You have a 9A engine. The MK3 Golf uses a 2.0 16v engine but is a ABF engine. The MK2 GTi uses a 1.8 16v - KR Code. The Corrado 9A engine is basically a uprated, newer version of the Golfs KR engine in that it has a bigger displacement and uprated fuelling system (Electric rather than the golfs mechanical fuelling). Your fuelling system is KE-Jet where the Golfs is K-Jet. The blocks and cylinder heads are basically the same casings, just different internals. The MK3 Golf 2.0 16v ABF engine uses Digifant fuelling so is a much more advanced electric system and is completely different to that of the Corrado's 2.0 16v. It's also a taller block and 150bhp (yours is 139bhp). So, in answer to your question, I'm sure you can swap some parts with the Golf MK2's 16v engine. But mainly you are sticking to the 9A engined cars such as Corrado's and Passats. Audi's from the same era had a 6A engine fitted which is the same as the 9a just longitudinal instead of the Corrado's transverse mounting. Oh, and not all Corrado's and Passats 16V's had the 9A engine in. The earlier ones came with the 1.8 16v (KR), I think anything made post 1992 should have the 2.0 16v 9A engine. Hope that helps and didn't boggle you!

You must have a lot of confidence in your handbrake................ Nice pic

Rep added easypops...just 'because' :D

A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.

Yes there is a small plastic 10mm nut to undo which is easy enough to get to, I found that sliding the power steering reservoir out of the way helped things. You got another VR now then Adam?