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Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

I had to pull over and get this one !

Hi all, i thought it was high time i shared my G60 build with you . This car is now completed so the thread updates aren't in real time so its a copy and paste exercise for the most part but i will try to keep to thread updated in the future . Thanks for reading . Okay so back in 2020 i already had a G60 in black as a project bought on a bit of a whim and which needed quite a bit of work ! Always on the hunt for parts for it i had bought a few random parts off a uk ebay seller , by chance i spotted in one of his pictures the faintest outline of a what looked like a fairly complete car in red. enquired what the story with it and i turned out that this was the car he was breaking the parts for sale off !! Turns out he had owned the car since 2001 and had embarked on a semi refresh of the underside of the car not long after purchasing it ,the usual jobs ,subframe ,rear beam ,wishbones blasted and powdercoated ,new supsension etc. only it seems like he had bitten off more than he could chew ,along with a very small workspace ( see below )it just seemed to have gotten the better of him and he lost interest in it . Years later he starting selling of bits of the car gradually on ebay where i came across him. He was willing to sell off the remains of the car so a deal was done , i bought the whole lot sight unseen ,i was taking a bit of a chance on it but the cost of the new spare parts that came with it alone was worth the asking price.

Still look in practically every day Still have the G60 but due to go for its winter hibernation Still have various projects ongoing when i have the time which is not a lot at present

So bringing this thread up to date here is the car as more or less is at present. ITs fully legal now and ended up being only 214 euro VRT due to being over 30 years old .Result!! I've also got these VW Sebring 16" wheels made by Bstar for that oem+ look .Have got around to fitting them as of yet !

Well, a set of RS301’s became available so looks like the corrado won’t be standard for too long.

Please use 2 x axle stands and wheel chocks for your own safety! Depending on the variation, the filter will either be held on with a round steel loop band with a bolt to tighten it, or a plastic cradle that it sits in, which has fixings on the corners that you need to undo to drop it. The loop band cradle type is often rusted to bits or seized if the filter has not been touched in years. First pic is the combined pump and filter housing, second is the VR6 style filter.

Ha- "Stark Industries"! They must be having a laugh, or else it's a play on the German, "stark" meaning "strong", or in slang cool/sound/great.

happy to report that after 14 months the VR6 is finally back home with essentially a brand new underside & nut & bolt restoration plus the Autostrada Modena's are on & looking mighty fine if i do say so myself lol pity you cant see any of the work that has just cost me a small fortune (over double what i had guessed at) but the first few journeys out have made me realise quite how much i had missed this car! the ride is sublime & the refreshed KW's feel great & the noise - nothing quite like it spent most of the weekend cleaning & resinstalling the interior, only sub & door cards left a quick pic from a gloomy drive today

Went for the 205/45/16s and I think worked out well , driving good no rubbing … thanks for the help guys 👍 including pic … it’s a bit dirty out there with the frost

After 25 years of pleasure, I have to sell my Corrado VR6 - it had 1 prior owner - a good friend. Full MOT, full service history, runs, needs cosmetic work inside and out. Everything is OEM. I will provide full details of ALL invoices and work carried out over the 25 years of my ownership. The identified required structural work was carried out to the satisfaction of the MOT. Included will be a number of extra parts (original metal sunroof and mechanism, original exhaust cover, fan thermistor !) accumulated down the years. From my first drive when I accelerated away from the lights, I have enjoyed driving this car ! Due to a certain London Mayor, I can no longer afford to run it having bought another VW (ULEZ compliant) - I have owned 1 Scirocco Mk2, 3 Passats and a Golf. I have toured Europe on holiday as well as taking it on my daily commute along the A12. It is all it is cracked up to be. I hope the photos set it up for you. BTW the number plate was a matter of good fortune ! https://www.carandclassic.com/l/C1618034

The OEM FRP is 4 bar, and sits on the right hand side of the fuel rail - from your picture it looks like right location and clip, but there should only be a very small vacuum host attached to a nipple, not that big hose. To remove it, take out the clip and use plumbers pliers to gently rock it out - use some silicone lubricant or penetrant spray first - but don't lever it with a screw driver as the circular housing is very soft metal and can deform easily. I guess if you are replacing, it doesn't matter too much if you damage the old one a bit.

To be able to do the job it was imperative that I was able to deal with Tradition which I have not been able to do since just over half the people who voted said leave…. 🙈. Eventually after jumping through many hoops of fire I have been able to get an account and some of the prices are less than what they were when available directly through VAG UK although the carriage charges are outrageous BUT we had no choice. I have another €500 of parts in my basket but my customer has bought himself another Audi to practice his DIY skills and he may need a few parts for that.

Thanks to all of you for the help, really appreciate it. So.... I felt like to go to the bottom of this I had to do something I promised myself not to do again after replacing the heater matrix... I only had to remove a few trims though this time and got a access to it. Replaced it with the old one and got all 4 speeds working again! So that new one must be defective I guess. Case closed, up to the next ha haa. Cheers

Can’t be many of you one owners left. Looks like you’ve been looking after it well too. I’m guessing coil overs to make it so pretty and some body work done at some point and didn’t put the bump strips back as you liked the cleaner look, as do I.

It's a good question and to be honest - it's hard to say! I did the fans at the same time as I did the engine rebuild so I haven't got a direct comparison on a fresh engine. They are the same size as the stock fans (11"); you might just be able to squeeze in 12" if you wanted to go bigger. Currently my engine temp sits at about 100 C in slow moving traffic in this weather which is OK I think. To be honest I thought it would be a little bit better than that what with the engine rebuild, but I don't know what would be considered low and high temps; however, I'm sure you'd get this with a stock fans as well. When I first got the car 10 years ago I am sure it ran fairly cool in traffic, around 90-100 (memory might be playing tricks there though!). I'm sure other people could confirm but 100 doesn't seem wildly low or beyond the realms of the OEM ones, but then who knows, if I had stuck with OEM fans I might be getting temps of 110 or so. I did have issues with engine temps sitting in traffic for long periods in the couple of years before I started the rebuild, to the point where the engine would start to run badly, and be on the verge of cutting out. But that was with a tired old engine so not really a good comparison. I also need to do an engine flush as I think deposits have built up in the rad (the old pipes I took off were coated) which won't help, so the fans might be battling against that. For the moment I am a little bit sceptical about whether it was worth it: It was a bloody hassle to sort (although would be a lot easier now I've done it once and got a guide), it's not really that much lighter (if you were thinking of that - about 1kg less), and doesn't seem to be greatly cooler. Think they might be a little bit quieter.

Just seen these at Heritage, got to be a good thing for us, instead of being ripped off in a bidding war

However, I think that the pictures show that I try to offer the best possible quality. And this brings us to the primary point of the thread. Many Corrado drivers are looking for centre console for the dashboard. We have already found a good solution for the LHD Corrados. (535 863 241 E) Many british Corrado drivers have asked if it is possible to produce this centre console for RHD Corrados as well. The part number for RHD should be 536 863 241 E. Correct? The basic question with such a complex part is of course how much demand there is. So I would like to ask you to estimate how many parts are needed at all. Greetings Chris

It’s behind the battery to the left as you look at it from the front of the car. Take the battery out to get proper access. Mine looked like this before I cleaned it up.

Thanks and your right, you know how special they are when the lorry driver who comes to pick it up is nearly in tears when he sees it, then spends 20 mins telling you what a brilliant car they are. Normally his fist pick up's go on the top deck but he said they can get damaged by trees so he was going to reserve that spot for all modern boring crap (his words) he was picking up next, didn't want the Corrado to get damaged. ( nice gesture but i think your too late mate).

I do Bill. It’s been in storage for a while now, only coming out for a yearly MOT and service but I’ve still got it. I keep thinking about selling up but just can’t bring myself to do it

No not from factory, should be an early bonnet for 1991 so must have been replaced in the past. May or may not be an issue depending on why it was replaced, without really looking at the car that's hard to judge. The bonnet is open in the pics that's why there's a large gap. I'm with you on the gear knob though, not my cup of tea but then two of my Corrados have had aftermarket gearknobs fitted (until I replaced them back to OE), doesn't really mean anything it's just like replacing the steering wheel and down to personal taste.

Finally back in the car. Secured and sealed up. A difficult part was lining it up against the heater directional box. It was catching the hot to cold flap, which I turned to hard!!! So lesson to all, take your time and you won't have to reset the dash controls. Since working it out the Hot to Cold flap now turns incredibly smoothly. There is however no way of securing the two units together, so I used a tyrap to hold it up and in line, some sticky sponge to seal and close the gap, then gaffa tape all around. A very efficient system now. Fingers crossed that I can get it pressure tested soon and that it won't leak....... Be interesting to see if this converted mk4 golf evaporator does the job, especially after all this time and money.

I bought one of the all aluminium ones from eBay for £150 as I was having trouble with leaks from the elbow flange and these come with that flange welded on as part of it. Didn't need to modify the car, only make a couple of brackets to fit it in replacement of the small L shaped brackets. The fan assembly bolted straight on and the bottom locating pins are in the right place. I will post some photos of this Friday if your interested?

PM price please?

My mechanic remarked my car felt a little lumpy when warm after he gave it a once over last week (I’ve only had it for a few weeks and hadn’t really noticed). We did spot the PCV pipe was split (Part No: 7M0 128 101) and I’ve ordered a replacement but yet to receive and fit. This is our first line of investigation as the car is showing no fault codes. An air leak would give symptoms of rough running though so maybe you have something similar. I find my car can be a little snatchy on the throttle – i.e when coming off or on of the throttle while cruising it doesn’t feel smooth but then at other times it’s fine. I don’t get exactly the same symptoms as yours but thought it was similar enough to post my experiences so far.

I'll check in the garage mate, i'm certain i had one or two.. Cheers.

Might be interested if the price was right 👍

Congratulations, well deserved. This is one of my favorite Corrados. Let me know when you're selling!

that g60's was a good deal, i love my mk1 golfs and remember seeing mass's up for sale on Facebook, lovely editions, but still nowt like driving the corrado....whats your thoughts mass? p3rks good luck with the hunt

You're making nice progress with this. I had both my grille badges black on my vr. Thought it looked good.

The colour looks sensational, nice and original. Welcome along

Welcome, it looks great! Ian.

Especially when there was an obvious reserves list.....if any where not wanted?? (Me being at the top!)

To put it simply: do you go to concerts and face away from the stage? Do away with the rear fills and focus on the best speakers and front stage your pockets can justify. Those rears will not be missed with a proper front stage setup.

Jim - it's £81 on Carparts4less and there is £10 off a £75 spend using a code on the front page!!

Basically mr clumpy, if you reading carefully I just wanted to know what sort of price guide I should pay for a storm, thanks and sorry if I offended you

Pics might be in wrong order, just tried to link them all again, in a rush :lol:

In india !! With the unicorns

awesome work timbo ;) upol gravitex , you need to apply it using a stone chip gun via air compressor at around 50psi

Clutch Switch 1 - to ECU Pin 39 2 - ignition live feed ( I used the yellow black wires that go behind the dash) Brake switch: 1 - Permanent live (CE2 Block E pin 4) 2 - Ignition live (same as clutch) 3 - To ECU pin 55 4 - To ECU pin 56 and brake lights (CE2 Block E pin 3 (Red/Yellow))

Hi which part is it rod

I have just put a deposit down on a classic green storm! It needs a few bits doing to it cosmeticaly but nothing serious and everything works after 140,000 miles! It has also had alot of money spent on it recently at tsr perfomance the vw specialist. I cant wait to get it back home and start giving it some tlc! Anyway here are some pics