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Rear beam needs to be mounted with both the body hangers loose as the beam eyes are mounted up. Dont torque up the beam eyes, or the hanger bolts until the the car has dropped and rolled a bit. Torque up with the wheels on the ground. That should lead to automatic squaring of the beam. Actually - has anybody noticed this before - the hangers for the rear beam are somewhat slotted on purpose. I wonder if, given the torque levels used, this was deliberate, to allow some adjustment - probably no more than 0.5 degrees (looking at the size of the slots). So, if this is correct, you are right, there is some room for adjustment. I spoke to a master tech at a VW garage just now and he said the A2 chassis (MK2s-MKivs) including the Corrado all had the slots built into the hangers to enable the rear axle to be fitted without hassle, but also confirmed that those slots come in useful, offering a "shave of adjustment ". The front K frame is more interesting - am doing it myself right now - the crucial part seems to be in getting the steering rack properly marked and resited on the K-frame when bolted in; the steering column properly settled, camber bolts being used (if needed) to get the front geometry right. Dont set the geometry until the dampers have settled for about 30 miles. The alignment team can only adjust the front wheels- but they may need to do it 3 times before it sits right.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

I only have a Scgrick fitted to a very standard set up, for now. But it certainly wants to go earlier in the rev range and well worth it. Good luck with finding one, you just need to be quick. I shall keep a look out for you. Don't be put off by missing parts as the can be worked around. I have a digital shift controller that switches the flap over and is quite cool as you can set the rpm and see what it us at. All works fine

If it’s been say for years as you say, it’s probably valve stem seals and such in the head that’s gone all hard. The block may still be good with that mileage and may not need a rebore. Stealth quoted in the region of £1500 for head refurb, chains and guides a couple of years ago. If the block needs work when he opens it up, your car is in the right garage for the work. Get the crank seals done while it’s in bits either way though. It’s well worth asking to speak to Vince and get a quote, he really does know the VR6 and doesn’t waste your money or time.

Is Bosch W6DPO still the recommended plugs to go for? If so where do all you guys get them as none of my local Factors can supply!

There's 2 on ebay, £400 and £130

It does look a clean looked after car. As Keyo says bridge the rad switch plug to bring the fans on if they don’t or one doesn’t there an issue with a relay unless he’s wired direct off of the existing fan plug. Do the above test and take some photos of the wiring, there’s a few ways he could have wired it up. When you press the override switch what happens then, do they both come on? You should be able to get both fans on without the ignition on as well simulating after run by bridging the rad sender plug.

There is a guy that has remade various parts, including the full rebuild sets. Pretty sure he’s only doing a certain amount of parts then they’ll be gone

Congrats on your new Corrado. It looks very clean and is in one of the best colours for a C (in my opinion). Enjoy your new purchase, you won't regret it. Here is a few links to parts suppliers and specialists that might help. https://www.vwspares.co.uk/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/ https://www.gsfcarparts.com/ https://www.stealthracing.co.uk/ https://www.jabbasport.com/

AFAIK the valve is there to to stop the heater matrix rupturing if there is a cooling issue or overheating, a safety/CYA thing as front passengers would get scalded. If the cooling system is up to scratch and maintaining temperatures within tolerances it won't be strictly necessary. The gurgling sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, so the best way is to make sure that it is bled out when refilling - I tend to refill first, leave the reservoir cap off and start the engine and let it warm up, squeezing the top and bottom rad hoses every once in a while - when the stat opens it will take a big gulp, so you'll need to top up quickly, check the hoses again, then put the cap on, go for a drive, let it settle and top up as needed to get the correct level. The coolant is pressurised when hot, so be very careful when opening the cap - let it sit for a while.

The fan controller controls 3 speeds. 1 & 2 from the rad switch and 3rd speed from the black sender in the thermostat housing. The fan control unit sends power to one of the three cables from the signal it gets. That’s why you can join the three wires together near the fan plug without getting current bleed going somewhere else that connects to the new fans. I use the two signals from the rad switch and the black switch unplugged so I can’t go over temp and bring that signal in. It would have easier and less complicated to just use the rad switch for just the first two signals direct from the fan switch like the Phenix fan set up. mine don’t change speed. the slim fan come on a 95 Celsius and both come on at 105 Celsius. that shroud seem basic for the money and the fans aren’t the best either. My bent plate cost £40 I think and I cut it out with a jigsaw. Look on the Spal fan website to determine fans and flow rates. it’s the fans, relays and wiring where the money is.

Something wrong there then, I’d put a proper fuse in and see if there is power to the switch. if the switch is goosed you can get one of these mk3 controllers, the switch is basically the same just upside down on the other side. I used one to fix mine. https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/1h0820045c-fresh-air-and-heater-controls.html

Unlucky mate that tends to mean they are down to the last few so price high- luckily for the VR thay under half that price even though when at the dealers they were £600- . Glad to hear you finally sorted it.

L824 WLD grey Vr6 joined the M1 motorway travelling south 06:25. Looked in good condition, although the heater doesnt work as he had his hoody up 🤣🤣

Coming to the end of my "holiday" now so spent last night (2am I think i stopped) giving the car a cut/polish/wax by hand. I forgot my DA polisher so didn't get the results I wanted. What next? There is a small finger sized hole at the drain lip in the rear arch. The drain lips ln both sides need rebuilding. Not sure if it will have the MOT with the hole but needs fixing as the sills and floor are otherwise top notch. Brakes need a bit of emery pad treatment and I plan to fit some new shocks up front and top mounts. I'm not a fan of the alloys so on the look out for something else OEM or perhaps BBS RXs. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

Thanks, the guy i bought it off is a real character and an obsessive petrol head. Just to put it in perspective he had a Delorean with 4k on the clock sitting on a marble tiled turntable in his lounge. He sits in it sometimes to watch the telly. (cinema screen to me) Suggested to the misses that we could do something similar with the old Corrado but she was having none of it.

Mrs had a 2010 Tdi for 2.5 years, nothing but servicing and a pair of rear spring broken - got rid of it after the emissions upgrade due to poorer low throttle response and dpf regen too frequent imo. a lad at work also has a Tdi with 130k and had a bill of around 1200 for the last mot for rear suspension springs, bushes and the electronically adjustable Dampers - they warned him of the impending fate of the front for the next mot..... he’s getting rid of it. The mrs is now a Scirocco spotter, “Ohh my old car” every journey - it’s the only car she’s ever taken any notice of... “Saw a lovely purple one today, have you seen the grey one on the new estate”, follow by “When you going to get your shit cars off my patio”...

It was pfsht Candy white thread,

Faulty crank sensor gives no spark and no fuel injected (dry plugs after cranking). try a different key?

Not seen one for a very long time. In fact the last one I saw (in any form) was the one featured on the cover of Autocar. It came up for sale about 2008. Was in Blackpool and was in really rough shape. I had my eye on it, but as much as I wanted a press car to add to the family, it was just too far gone. In fact, If I remember the advert correctly, his wife bought it for him as a project off ebay. Once he saw the state of the cills/arches he fell out with the idea (It certainly put me off). It was also a time when early 16vs (without an MOT) were changing hands for £300+. And ones in good order £1000+ So not much interest in putting the effort in. Running a check of their regs in the MOT checker looks like they've all been SORN (broken for parts ?) for at least 6 years.

up

I have my fan out the car still. The only markings on it are A52/C2. I could happily send people pictures, but have GIVEN UP TRYING ON HERE ...

My mechanic remarked my car felt a little lumpy when warm after he gave it a once over last week (I’ve only had it for a few weeks and hadn’t really noticed). We did spot the PCV pipe was split (Part No: 7M0 128 101) and I’ve ordered a replacement but yet to receive and fit. This is our first line of investigation as the car is showing no fault codes. An air leak would give symptoms of rough running though so maybe you have something similar. I find my car can be a little snatchy on the throttle – i.e when coming off or on of the throttle while cruising it doesn’t feel smooth but then at other times it’s fine. I don’t get exactly the same symptoms as yours but thought it was similar enough to post my experiences so far.

I'll check in the garage mate, i'm certain i had one or two.. Cheers.

Hi all! One month ago, at the age of 40, and dreaming at this car for 20 years or so, I had the joy of buying my dream car. Yes, it is only a 2L 8V, but I do not need the power of the VR6, I also own a Focus ST with 300+ BHP, so I do not miss the adrenaline, but I still miss the sound of a VR6. No problem. It is a Corrado, it is MINE, and it's pristine! (Except for the damn "wet back carpet when raining" issue that just happened 2 days ago, that is :bonk: and :scratch: me.. Otherwise, so far, it is a joy. It turns heads on the streets (almost nobody has a clue what car this is..) , it raises people's interest at car shows.. Nice to see that people still love this piece of engineering and history.. Too bad such cars are not built anymore. Even worse that the number of Corrados gets lower every year...

Wow, got that wrong. TDI's looking good though

Show us the VR! Don't get me wrong, MK1's are very charismatic, but Corrados are just a drivers car, so much better! And cooler!

Cheers Much appreciated.

Looks excellent 8)

Welcome, nice Storm Grey, bit of info here if you havn't already seen it >> http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?84779-Storm-Grey-VR6-with-B12

Looks a lovely example . Welcome along to the forum .

Welcome, it looks great! Ian.

he's had 10 years to sort it,hopefully should be done by now!!

Correct assumption Campaign , it's very much a Glasgow thing, eternally optimistic :)

Pics might be in wrong order, just tried to link them all again, in a rush :lol:

hence why female cars are 'powered by fairydust!' when I got the rado' I gave the wife my looked after lupo and sold her car so now the little lupo's her daily, put some hard work into that little beast, I honestly wish I had sold it and let her drive whatever she wanted. its like watching your best mate getting beat up in the school playground! :bonk:

Optimum no rinse Mic. Lots of pro detailers use it or another no rinse prooduct in the height of summer, or when a hosepipe ban is in force. Have a read up on it. I cant say Ive ever used it tbh, but it does get rave reviews.

Real bummer that , and to top it off you have to pay to get it back! Glad she is fine apart from the hotwire damage .

Good work so far on the tear down. Water may also be from the door membranes so worth checking, especially if you end up in the general area when renewing any speaker wiring. Dim dip resistor needs to be disconnected for uprated wiring so that may be the reason that isn't plugged in. Also, good call on the immobiliser if you do take it out. Some cars are now suffering from alarm/immobilser install on top of install (and even on top again in some cases) and it's quite satisfying taking it back knowing that you won't be stranded due to electrical gremlins. Good luck with progress.

I wonder if some of the H&R/Koni's harshness is to do with the bump settings in the dampers because the H&R springs aren't that hard. Low and high speed bump (or compression) can't be adjusted unfortunately. You can only adjust the rebound. Just to remind folk of the different damper characteristics: Low speed bump - The damper compressing slowly: brake dive, turn-in, driving up a kerb, B road undulations etc High speed bump - The damper compressing quickly: Potholes, speed bumps, cats eyes etc. Rebound - The damper returning to it's static state. This is the one that makes the car feel more 'planted' and sporty. It's the setting we notice the most and is usually the only adjustment offered. Damper manufacturers would prefer that we trust their judgement on the bump settings, especially the high speed one, but KW do at least give you a low speed adjustment on the V3s. Personally I think user adjustment of high speed bump would solve a few crashiness issues, but in order to get 3 way adjustable kits, you're looking at the wrong side of £2500. But if you consider what some peeps spend on their Corrados on superficial stuff, personally, I'd rather sink more into getting the car to corner and ride properly. And just to reiterate, 'coilovers' (or ride height adjustable to use the correct term) as a configuration isn't crashy. They can be way softer than the standard setup if so desired. It's the technology and settings that determine the ride quality. Just thought I'd throw that in as many people automatically associate crashiness to coilovers. It's the cheap £250 ebay specials that give the configuration a bad name. I tend to think of suspension as a tailored suit vs an off the peg Moss Bros one.

Put a link up so to help people out in the future fella

Managed to dismantle clean resolder and repair this. Will post some pics shortly, but as David said they're glued together, as well as having a locking 'lip' on the inside. Heat with a hairdryer for as long as you can hold it. Then use some jewellers screwdrivers down each of the longer sides. Carrefully but firmly hold the washer nozzle and gently ease it out of the outer casing. On mine the connection had corrodes, but this was cleaned with emery cloth and the cable resoldered and supported with heat shrink. Be careful when removing the connectors that sit either side of the heater block as they can be easily damaged. ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:08 PM ---------- using the hairdryer has the added advantage of rejuvenating the colour from a faded grey back to black! Also gives you a chance to polish the area where the nozzle sits.

I'm still looking for a set. If the group buy comes off, particularly if it happens through Stealth, then that makes a lot of sense to me.

With the car running you may want to turn the car full lock left to right a few times and keep an eye on the power steering fluid and top up as necessary. It should quiten down after several turns. Turn the steering wheel from outside with the driver window down so you can dont have to get in and out of the car all the time and you can hear the whine and top up fluid easier.

This is one for Andi i guess? There is a small icon, sometimes green under the username status eg Donator/Super Moderator etc Some only say the username when you hover over it.......BUT some people are either on a distinguished road or an unknown quantity So what is it? :scratch:

Your car looks really nice mate

Here's the quick vid I made last night just driving up the road and back basically. It's upside down as mounted it so I could press the buttons etc. As you can see, the quality doesn't seem as good, it doesn't handle exposure as well and the sound is crap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl9Vv2d6LUk