Leaderboard

Cheers, no green bulbs but they do flash a bit red. now fitted

There is a guide on vagdrivers for replacing the matrix without removing the dash: https://www.vagdrivers.net/threads/corrado-heater-matrix-replacement.19713/ Sent from my LE2123 using Tapatalk

Apologies all, I haven't managed to put the order in for the next batch yet, but hopefully will get onto that in the next couple of weeks.

Right, it all works! You were right about this, I was going way overboard with 6mm wire, which wouldn't have fitted in all the connectors. i guess the original fan motor ran a much higher current. When I looked the actual ratings I found 1mm wire would be sufficient for fan speed 1. Anyway, this is what the finished wiring looked like: Which is to this wiring diagram: Essentially the same as the one at the top of the page but I have updated the wire thicknesses. Also I couldn't find Red/Green wire in 4mm so just used Red. I used this wire: Thin Wall Cable (autoelectricsupplies.co.uk) And these connectors to splice the wires: 108961-000 Raychem - Te Connectivity, Butt Splice, Yellow, DuraSeal Series | Farnell Which are Duraseal Yellow crimp butt connectors with heatshrink. These are nice because the heatshrink material gives a good seal around the wires at the connection. You need yellow (10-12AWG) for all connections I found. The Blue connectors (14-16 AWG) is just too small, even for the 1 and 2mm wire join, which approximately makes 13 AWG. You have to double over the end of the 2.0mm wire where it is on its own, but this is no big issue. The resistors I used are: HSC100R47J | TE Connectivity HSC100 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 470mΩ ±5% 100W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For the fan speed 1 circuit. This is a 0.47 Ohm resistor as I couldn't find a 0.4 Ohm. Makes little difference though. Don't know if this is the best brand, but it seemed to have a better temperature stability. And: HSA50R10J | TE Connectivity HSA50 Series Aluminium Housed Solder Lug Wire Wound Panel Mount Resistor, 100mΩ ±5% 50W | RS Components (rs-online.com) For fan speed 2. At the end the resistances were about 0.7 Ohm for fan speed 1, 0.2 Ohm for fan speed 2 and 0.1 Ohm for fan speed 3. Little bit higher accounting for the extra resistances for the other circuit components, and possibly rounding due to my multimeter only going to 1 decimal place accuracy, but within the right original range. You can also get the female connectors for the Comex slimline fans here: 2 Pin Plug Connector for Comex Fans from Merlin Motorsport For straight plug and play. These (and the spade connectors on the Passat plug) are open barrel types so you will need the correct crimper tool. To get the existing wires out of the Passat spade connectors is a pain but doable. For the 2 larger connectors (Speed 3 and Ground) I found it was possible to hammer a small screwdriver (jewellery/watch type) down the back of the wire to open it up. Make sure the spade is held securely in a vice to stop it bending, and use pliers to hold the neck of the connector as well. For the smaller two it should be possible to pull the wires out with a pair of pliers, starting with one or two threads in the middle of the bunch. With the wires out you can just about open the metal enough to get the new wire in. Because you are reusing these I would solder as well as re-crimping them. I re-crimped and the seemed to be holding OK, but soldered as well as a back up. I then knocked up a bracket to mount the resistors on. Here is the finished setup: Not my best wrapping! Thought I had ran out of the usual tape, and used the slightly furry stuff which doesn't look as neat, and then found the plain roll again. The panel for the resistors tucks around the side of the rad between the battery in the void behind the headlights, as my original plan of mounting the panel straight out clashed with the battery. This is it in the car: The big downside with this is that you can't get the battery out without removing the fans as the plug is in the way... Unfortunately I had no time to prototype this so I had to live with it for the time being. I think it theoretically should be possible to slide the whole shroud out in one go to get the battery out but it's a pain, and I will need to try and remedy this longer term. In hindsight I should have kept the panel coming out perpendicularly but flipped so that the resistors are mounted in the fan slipstream; I may try and do this, although will have to try and find another Passat plug! Anyway, I tested the three fan speeds with the battery prior to fitting and the all come on fine, and at different speeds (no reason why they shouldn't!) Since being on the car they do come on alright, although I can't really tell if all 3 speeds have been used yet. Not sure what temp speeds 2 and 3 come on and it's a bit hard to tell over the engine noise. Don't know if it was worth the hassle and expense yet, but the fans seem a bit quieter and on the initial slow (20-30mph), albeit, short driving runs the temp seems to have stayed about 90-100 degrees.

No disrespect for the poster but unfortunately a lot of people don't seem to be able to calculate. If someone wonders why I avoid Facebook. It's comments like this. Lots of people can build lots of parts, cheaper and better. Many people find a lot of parts too expensive. Lots of people talk a lot. Unfortunately, they never show better quality or a cheaper price. They want to drive an exclusive car for which there are no spare parts. They want the best quality. But they don't want to pay anything. That does not work. But, Iet me explain the 10th time. You think 600-700 € for a set of fog lights as good as new are too expensive? You think 800-900 € for a set of headlights as good as new are too expensive? Fog lights: A set of usable facelift fog lights with broken lenses, where it makes sense to renew them, costs around € 200. New lenses from VX are $ 175 + shipping + customs. Around € 220. Then comes the work: Remove 2x glasses and glue = 1.5h Repaint 2x housing = 1.0h Replace 2x reflectors = 80 € + 0.5h Build 2x new wiring harnesses = 1.0h Glue in new glasses twice = 0.5h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Headlights: A useful set of facelift headlights costs around € 400. 2 x polishing glasses = 6h Replace 2 x reflectors and recoat = 100 € + 0.5h Repair 2 x minor damage = 1.0h Packing + writing an invoice + little things = 1.0h Then subtract 12% eBay fees from the price, subtract 3% PayPal fees and 16% VAT from the price. Anyone who thinks the price is too high for this quality should perhaps buy a MK 2 or 3. The spare parts are cheap and available. I don't want to have these conversations anymore. My aim is not to sell as much as possible. My goal is to make the parts as good as possible. If the parts are too expensive for you, simply don't buy them. best regards Chris

I wanna blob!!!!! Lol!!!

Hey up, I'm not sure I understand you. These are pic's of my throttle cable (1992 G60) - does it look like yours [assuming yours is G60]? Phil

Hello everyone Hope all is well. Back in the Corrado game just could not say no to this Kamei body kitted RE200 GTI 170 BHP Engineering car. Truly nutty car that was purchased new from GTI Engineering with lots of added extras . Very rare colour to Helios blue with a Kamei X1 body kit- what a mental spec ! Car dealer stamp on code sticker is GTI Engineering First registered 02.1990 - absolute no brainer with the historic tax only a few years away and have plenty of 16v parts shared with my Mk2 Golf. I use Peter James Insurance now - to add it onto my MK2 policy it only cost £55 and that includes rescue- now ladies and gents that is cheap motoring !

Is is on Classic parts, you had incorrect part nr, should be 535 827 761. Hinged fastener for Corrado Product no.: 535 827 761 In stock €27.99 prices excluding VAT, shipping costs and import fees Quantity Add to shopping cart Go to Product details Go to Delivery information

I did the solid column years ago, it does make it feel a lot more positive, The cowls are getting hard to find, early and late “bottoms” are the same,just different part numbers, tops are different due to the hazard light ! Had the car in the body shop last Xmas, new sills, (eBay ones)came galvanised.Fitted really well, rear arches were showing signs of tin worm, so scored a set of second hand arches of eBay, cleaned up like new ! Front wings were not good, couldn’t find a decent set of late wings,so got a set of used “early”wings from a breaker local to me (eBay again) nearly rust free,the metal seems thicker on the earlier wings ! Body shop did a really good job putting it all together, bottom of the car was resprayed ,looks new again, struggling to put pics up at the moment

quick update 9 out of 10 deposits received & loom maker is ordering the parts for all 10 hopefully, work commitments the only caveat, he is aiming to have them ready by end of Nov 🙂

Still look in practically every day Still have the G60 but due to go for its winter hibernation Still have various projects ongoing when i have the time which is not a lot at present

Not sure I really need to be cleaning my exhaust down pipe

Deposit taken so the car is now sold. Thanks for all the interest.

From the VIN number, mine was produced 342 from the end of the production run so they were probably using up the parts they had left, and I’ve owned it since it was less than five years old so I expect it’s the original one too as it was too new for things to have started breaking! No UK cars were built with a/c but mine is definitely 2 plug and I’m sure that both plugs were wired when I fitted the Climatronic, I just had to add extra wires to the smaller plug.

There was a short write up from Chris de Bono in the Autumn 1996 edition of Sprinter followed by the for sale advert in the Summer 1997 edition. I seemed to remember seeing photos in colour at the time but guess they must have been somewhere else. Dusty Mauve.pdf Campaian.pdf

Not SORN No MOT since online records began Same owner since 1998 Not exported Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally some traction today.... New ECU installed and the car has fired up into life!! Due to the weather couldn't keep it running for long but there is life ...... a bit of white smoke which we will need to look into however we have progress... 😉

Looks good now, fingers crossed for you 🤞

I only have a Scgrick fitted to a very standard set up, for now. But it certainly wants to go earlier in the rev range and well worth it. Good luck with finding one, you just need to be quick. I shall keep a look out for you. Don't be put off by missing parts as the can be worked around. I have a digital shift controller that switches the flap over and is quite cool as you can set the rpm and see what it us at. All works fine

If it’s been say for years as you say, it’s probably valve stem seals and such in the head that’s gone all hard. The block may still be good with that mileage and may not need a rebore. Stealth quoted in the region of £1500 for head refurb, chains and guides a couple of years ago. If the block needs work when he opens it up, your car is in the right garage for the work. Get the crank seals done while it’s in bits either way though. It’s well worth asking to speak to Vince and get a quote, he really does know the VR6 and doesn’t waste your money or time.

Can you please also add me back on the list- after seeing how well it works last night I would like one for the VR to and I would like to force myself how to make one but will probably be shite by the time im done . Cheers.

Just to add... on the fuel pump relay, pin 85 connects to pin3 on connector G1 (the trigger signal) and in turn this goes to pin3 on the ECU. This trigger is a negative signal, so to test you need to put your 12v multi meter or your LED testers black probe on pin 3 of connector G1 and the your red probe to the switched live, you should also check ECU pin3 and a reading should only be available when your ignition key is turned. So pin3 at connector G1 or at ECU pin3 should NEVER be at +12

Late bulged bonnet. Late wider arched front wings. Late bumper - body line goes straight and tapers out. Late headlamp again Rear arches are the same early and late Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bit of rust treatment. But I have pulled out some degraded sponge..

Moody - there are a few options available. I would say it's better to upgrade than try and find a working Corrado roof. My experiences to date - I bought a working corrado mechanism from a chap with the initals BR that was sold as working for £200. It broke on the second use. I wouldn't say it was the sellers fault but it's a 25+ year old bit of kit and certainly not worth £200. Don't do what I did - false economy. I then fitted a mk3 mecahansim with a Passat B4 moonroof. That combo works well - you can get the mech for about £45 (I use Leo GS the mk3 parts breaker on facebook - he is a great bloke and a moderator on a lot of groups). The passat moonroof can be picked up for around £50. I would sell mine if anyone wants it, it needs a new seal though. I wasn't a fan of the moonroof for my car. I prefered the stock tin panel. I got lucky and Chris F supplied me a bag of sunroof bits for a reasonable sum so I've got 3 corrado mechs built (2 x in car). I can't sell any of these though as I have 2 corrado's and need to keep it for spares. This is the best route to go - buy a broken mech and try and source a bag of bits (the bag of bits only cost me £50). I've seen somewhere someone has adapted the mk3 mech to work with the corrado inner panel. This is probably the best solution as the corrado mech is weak vs mk3. Mk3 mech out of the box will not auto slide the inner panel. I haven't looked into this with any detail yet.

That’s what I like to see, a bit of ingenuity. Glad they’re in, at least you’re comfortable in the knowledge it’s a one time job and you’ll not be pressing more in there in the near future!

If you get the code it can be checked here. http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx I'm pretty sure it'll be the YU clear. It's rare and I've only seen them a couple of times, but there was a 'mushroom beige' I think was only available for early cars. It's a bit darker and a kind of mix between grey & beige.

However, I think that the pictures show that I try to offer the best possible quality. And this brings us to the primary point of the thread. Many Corrado drivers are looking for centre console for the dashboard. We have already found a good solution for the LHD Corrados. (535 863 241 E) Many british Corrado drivers have asked if it is possible to produce this centre console for RHD Corrados as well. The part number for RHD should be 536 863 241 E. Correct? The basic question with such a complex part is of course how much demand there is. So I would like to ask you to estimate how many parts are needed at all. Greetings Chris

This was followed step by step by larger plastic parts. Unfortunately of course primarily LHD parts. For example: Number plate holder in European or American design 535813990 535813989. Frame for additional displays for early types 535 858 203. Air intakes as replacement for defective fog lights. Door sill plates 535 853 813 A.

Faulty crank sensor gives no spark and no fuel injected (dry plugs after cranking). try a different key?

PM price please?

The VDOs are bloody expensive though. Hopefully you get the correct one - the problem is that a lot of sites just list the one pump as a generic replacement without mentioning the pressure. I'm not really sure what the impact would be of running a 3 bar pump on a 2.9, as long as you had a matching FPR - but it might throw out the ECU map as it would have been tuned to 4 bar pressure.

My mechanic remarked my car felt a little lumpy when warm after he gave it a once over last week (I’ve only had it for a few weeks and hadn’t really noticed). We did spot the PCV pipe was split (Part No: 7M0 128 101) and I’ve ordered a replacement but yet to receive and fit. This is our first line of investigation as the car is showing no fault codes. An air leak would give symptoms of rough running though so maybe you have something similar. I find my car can be a little snatchy on the throttle – i.e when coming off or on of the throttle while cruising it doesn’t feel smooth but then at other times it’s fine. I don’t get exactly the same symptoms as yours but thought it was similar enough to post my experiences so far.

It's great having shiney new parts to fit . Hope to finish mine on Saturday.

The pedal position sensor is just held in by a ring clip. It needed a good tug to get it out, but wasn't difficult to get out. Mine was actually the connector in the end, but I bought a brand new PPS and fitted that, so I think I still have my original one that was tested good. I cant remember if it sold or not before I left with a few other bits, but if I still have it and you're in no great rush, give me a nudge around Christmas time and I'll see if I can dig it out.

i just tried to down load it to a stick...that link has been removed......however in hd https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUOFMFKArl0 " Thank You very much indeed, loepan " ... I've just watched it and, like many others, I'm " chufti-ed " to bits !! and equally " Thank You very much too, kdub " for your really helpful gem of : AN EXCELLENT BIT OF SOFTWARE for grabbing youtube videos etc and allowing you to save them to your device. http://clipgrab.org Go to that link and select English as language. Then download the software (FREE). Now copy and paste the youtube address into the search bar and Grab Clip (Select mp4 Format). You will have in a few minutes the entire video saved to your hard drive for your viewing pleasure

Welcome Chris, good to see you over here! :thumbleft: Cracking car in one of the best colours - you will love it! I'm certainly missing mine the more I see yours! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?89710-Chopped-in-my-2-0-16v-Corrado-today As mentioned on FB, you just have to fit a short-shift if Dave can knock you one up? http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?61985-Corrado-Short-Shifter&highlight=short+shift You may have noticed the long throw on the gearstick (assuming one isn't fitted already?)It makes the change so much nicer and not too short like some kits. Looking forward to seeing you add your 'touch' to this one. Enjoy it ;)

Oooh ! . Well I've had two in a month . I must be good at something then.

Nice,welcome :)

Welcome, it looks great! Ian.

There's only one thing for it - lysholm charger :norty:

if your switch is broken, and doesn't work properly, u can use early style sunroof switch, it is the same as Recaro switch, only difference in front of the switch, but i think u can swap it with front part of Recaro switch,

Good work so far on the tear down. Water may also be from the door membranes so worth checking, especially if you end up in the general area when renewing any speaker wiring. Dim dip resistor needs to be disconnected for uprated wiring so that may be the reason that isn't plugged in. Also, good call on the immobiliser if you do take it out. Some cars are now suffering from alarm/immobilser install on top of install (and even on top again in some cases) and it's quite satisfying taking it back knowing that you won't be stranded due to electrical gremlins. Good luck with progress.

Sounds like you've a sticky piston. Maybe the handbrake adjustment ? Worth checking them all.

I know mate, I'm not going to put myself out for 'maybes'. People can do basic maths and figure I dunno, perhaps a 10% discount on 10 sets, 15% on 20 sets and so on. So 10% off stands you at $400, x 1.23 for UK duty and VAT = £302. Shipping from the US and UK mainland on top. So if people decide ~ £350ish all in is going to be too much, they can duck out. Perhaps it's just a sign of the times. We sold over a 100 sets over two GBs last time! Anyway, I have asked Bill for pricing on 10, 20, 30 sets etc. And yep, I was also thinking it could be done through Stealth as they have the buying power and accounts already in place and can also include a mapping deal as you say!

Well once you've done it yourself, you'll know it's done correctly and will be 100% reliable.

This is one for Andi i guess? There is a small icon, sometimes green under the username status eg Donator/Super Moderator etc Some only say the username when you hover over it.......BUT some people are either on a distinguished road or an unknown quantity So what is it? :scratch:

Thanks for stepping up! I think it's just a case of everyone getting used to the new format- the forum was similar with past face lifts. Takes a few weeks for posting to get back to what it was before the change. Gonzo, any progress?

A couple of sellers who come with the highest of recommendations: Matt (8vMatt): Offered a heater motor based on seeing a previous parts request coming to a dead end. Item exactly as described, dispatched and received based on an extremely tight deadline. I'm talking VAG Parts next day delivery quick. Extremely prompt responses on the PM's. Literally can not fault. Tom (PurpleTom): Have dealt with Tom from a selling point of view in the past and found him to be extremely amicable aswell as punctual individual. Roles have recently reversed and I have now become the purchaser and same holds true. 100% honest seller, items as described, arriving quickly after expressing urgency. 10/10/.