dinkus

I know there are quite a few people with them fitted, just can't remember who! :lol: From what I've found via search, it seems that the standard setup on the Corrado is: Some pics of the kits from our good friend corradog60stage4... viewtopic.php?p=877433#p877433 ...and there would be more here if he'd attached them to the thread instead ;) viewtopic.php?f=3&t=60563 Interesting reading from Mystic Rado, especially as the HIDS4U ones are probably the most expensive ones you can buy... viewtopic.php?p=862697#p862697 viewtopic.php?t=50738&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15 It'd be interesting to see if he used the 4300K "Supreme Vision" setup though, as that could make a difference. Also some nice work from GTuned, although a little more than a straight swap-job: viewtopic.php?p=599635#p599635 But if you really want to go hardcore, how's about this: http://www.dubdesignindustries.com/audilights/ Some info here on the legality of the HID kits: viewtopic.php?p=158612#p158612 Although that would imply you need the non-UK spec automatic headlight adjusters so you can "adjust the lights from the driver's seat". Lastly - 4200K or 4300K ones are what you want. Anything higher is more blue and actually produces less light. It also looks a bit ghey :lol: Most kits are 35W, which should be more than enough, although a lot of places offer 55W as well, which sounds retina-singey. So yeah, maybe it's not quite so much of a no-brainer. I'd just seen the conversion on my friend's car and it's a night/day difference...but perhaps on the Corrado it's not such a good idea and a loom/uprated bulbs is the best you're going to get...

ROFL - possibly a bit overkill... I wonder how bright they'll be when dipped and/or if you're likely to singe the retinas of any poor schmucks coming the other way :lol: So I take it you haven't fitted yours yet? Which kits have you gone for?

Well you don't need fancy bulbs, but if you're putting in an uprated loom, it makes sense to put in a set of Silver Stars at the same time. I was just using it to compare price really. If you use the posh kit that DDI sell then it's going to be over double the money, especially if you want to go overkill and get 2 sets - one for the H4s and one for the H3s! I'm still very tempted though, the buggers are fecking bright! :lol:

That should do the job - I know there are other people with 16" space savers...

Possibly, I'm not sure... I'd heard that too, but I know quite a few people that have had them through on an MOT and said that all the light needs to pass is the beam pattern. Could be wrong though I thought so too, but it's apparently not true as the HID kits are made to the same beam pattern as whatever bulbs you have to replace. So if you have H4 bulbs now, you buy an H4 HID kit...

Hmm, it would seem that another item on my to-do list is to get the wiki up and running again. Andi and I have got a sexy new engine to use for it, which is farrrr easier to use than the old one... just gotta get it all setup. If it's quiet at work again tomorrow, I might just do that...

I'm thinking I'll probably go with an HID kit on mine... if you buy a pre-made OEM-style loom, you're looking at £50+ then you're talking another £20 or so for fancy bulbs. So call it £70 all-in. For £100 off ebay (or more like £160 if you buy the DDI kit) then for £30 more, you've got a kit that won't ever need new bulbs and night/day difference between even an uprated loom and bulb kit. Seems like a no-brainer to me...

I've got visions if a load of hands flailing out of them as they spin round :lol:

Heh - I've actually had a guy at the place I'm working in Toronto offer me money for that jacket :lol:

They look gay :norty: :lol:

Have you tried turning it off and on again? :lol: I'd take the disks out of the car over night, so it's nice and warm first thing in the morning and thus won't get condensation on it...

Ah well yes - finding them is the hard bit. Blues and greens are easy to find. Nuggets, DBP, Satin Silvers and a few others are really hard to find.

DBP for the win! It looks black most of the time, but if you get it sparkly clean under some sunlight you get an awesome purple flick in it. I was sorely tempted to get one, but the Satin Silver ones were just too good :lol:

The 2 messages from episode 1 were "Strictly Come Dancing is crap" and "I LIKE CHEESE" (sadly not I LIKE HAM, but close enough :lol:) The 2 messages from episode 2 were "I VOTED ROSS PEROT", (apparently a reference to an American politician who fell out of the recent presidential race at an early stage?) The second message was "ME SMELL CATS" :lol: I would like to point out that I'm not sad enough to have translated them myself, but I did Google them :D But if you are feeling very geeky, this is good fun - http://morsecode.scphillips.com/jtranslator.html .. / .-.. .. -.- . / .... .- --

I think http://www.dubmodder.com/ is probably what you're looking for, but the buggers have started charging for it now :( There might be other sites about that do it now though, so other people might have more links...

I've seen other ones mounted with the 4 aforementioned self tappers through the parcel shelf support and then a metal ribbon with holes in attached to the bottom/back corner. That's then screwed into the rear of the boot metalwork. As there aren't any instructions from Audioscape, I'd imagine they're all installed in different ways, so go with whatever seems to work...

DOT 4 is the bog standard stuff that the car probably has in it already, so it'll be fine. You can't buy DOT 5 anywhere nowadays, but if you can, avoid like the plague, as Dec says. DOT 5.1 is the best readily available stuff as it's got a higher boiling point and is slightly more resistant to water soakage, but whatever floats your boat :)

Well you could always just put the wheels and brakes on, polish it up with a bit of patented Toad Turd Polish and take it to loads of shows. Then simply sell 3 months later for 4x it's actual value to an emo kind on E38 :lol:

Funny you should mention this, I've had mine for years now and still haven't gotten round to actually fitting the damned thing in :lol: The suggested method is to use a bracket of some sort to hold the bottom of the amp rack in, then 4 or 5 long self-tapping screws through the top of the parcel shelf supports (the thin strip that the parcel shelf itself actually sits on. I'm currently thinking that I'll get a long strip of velcro for the bottom. One side of the velcro gets stuck to the metalwork on the back edge of the boot behind the amp and the other half gets stapled to the back of the amp-rack. That should be strong enough to hold the bottom in place. I'm not a big fan of wopping the self tappers through, so still trying to work out another plan for the top. The other option could be to put a load of velcro on the back of the amp itself and see if that works...?

Ah excellent news! :D

Ooh, I hadn't spotted this before - good work and thanks for all the effort!

The float and sender is physically attached to the pump in the tank, so it comes out as one piece. The Pierburg and VDO pumps have different part numbers, but alas I'm not quite geeky enough to know what they are :lol: Either way, it's fairly obvious as they've got VDO or Pierburg stamped on them. I've got a pic of the two different types side-by-side at home somewhere (you might even be able to find the pic if you do a search).

ah k.

Hmm, interesting - I was rummaging round ETKA last night and came up with these 2 part numbers - 536 941 017 and 536 941 115 So one matches, but 536 941 115 doesn't... will have to have a look this evening and see what the difference is.

Good god man, you're a lunatic! :lol: