dinkus

Haha, I'm selling my Corrado and already thinking about a 350Z... great minds and all that :lol: I know the 350Zs look cool and sound pretty - does that help? :D

:norty:

Not a chance in hell if you've got Recaros though - all the motors and stuff take up nearly all that space...

It's all about the Damplifier Pro 8)

It'll be spilt and if you grab the engine and rock it about you'll see it moving. The engine should be pretty firmly held in place. If it were me, I'd go with either a VAG or Vibratechs one. They're not cheap though - the VAG one is around £75 and VT ones are £120ish I think. You can get what appear to be the same ones from GSF, but the rubber's not as stiff, so they don't hold the engine as well. I'd strongly suggest you don't get a solid one (not even sure if anybody makes them for VRs) as it puts lots of extra load onto the subframe and you're likely to damage that instead of the rubber mount!

The most common one is the front one, but the only way to tell really is to take a look. The standard rear ones on a VR are viscous (oil-filled) so if they're dead, they'll be covered in oily goo.

I have come to loathe anything that involves trim as it invariably ends up with me swearing a lot and skinned knuckles :lol: But it's usually worth it once you get everything back together and it all sounds much nicer than it did when you started :)

8N0407181B is that part number for the TT donut bushes that go into the rear of the front wishbones. I bought and used these on my car :) It's the same part used on the S3 and from what ETKA says - all Mk4 4Motion/R32s and Beetles. The 182A part number that mariojoshi quoted is the sausage-shaped front wishbone bush that I've got no idea about.

If you really can't be that bothered with doing too much, I'd be inclined to just upgrade the fronts and leave the rears as-is. Changing the standard sized rear speakers doesn't make a huge difference. Up-front, I'd go for a set of matched components like these http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/rainbow ... -3852.html You get a 6.25" (hehe not 16.25! :)) driver for the Audioscape door pod, a crossover that you can bury in the dash somewhere and a tweeter that will fit into the original tweeter holder (with some light dremmeling... although bear in mind that you junk the original tweeter to do this). That'll give you the best sound without spending uber bucks. Oh and if you're using the standard wiring, you'll need to do a bit of re-routing to get the crossover in place. The crossover has 3 pairs of connections 1. Input from the head unit 2. Output for the tweeter 3. Output for the door speaker The car has the following 1. Wire from the head unit to the tweeter 1. From the tweeter to the door The reason for this is the original tweeter has a little capacitor on the bottom of it that acts as a very crude crossover. So if you want to replace the original tweeter and crossover for a proper one, you need to get these bits going... There are 2 connectors on the bottom of the tweeter - one from the head unit, one that goes to the door speaker. If you're taking out the tweeter, you want to extend (stick pins in the connector/splice into the wire) the wire that comes from the head unit to wherever your crossover is going to be. You've not got your input to the crossover. The new Rainbow tweeters have a wire already attached to them that needs to connect into the tweeter output of the crossover, so that should be fairly easy. Now you need to get signal from the crossover to the door. You can either run a wire from the crossover back to the plug by the tweeter that goes to the door (easiest) or if you have a strong desire to swear a lot - run a speaker wire from the crossover through the door hinge trunking and into the door. Bear in mind that the VAG connectors for the standard speakers won't fit onto any of the new speakers you buy, so you'll need to get some spades for those, whatever you do. I'd be inclined to buy a set of front components, work out what wiring and connectors you need, and put them in. Give it a listen and see what you think - you may find that the bottom end is still lacking somewhat, in which case it's time to hunt for a sub. The easiest option for that is something like an Infinity Basslink that has the sub and amp all in one box... but you still need to run RCAs and power to the boot. ...and if you're going to be running RCAs and power to the boot, why not run some speaker wires from the boot back to your crossovers too... even if you don't put the amp in straight away, it's then an easy option in the future. I'd also make sure you run something like a 4AWG power cable - you might not need it for what you put in initially, but that then gives you the option of swapping things out without having to re-run the power cable.

6.5in drivers needed for the Audioscape pods, (if you're buying second hand anyways). The Rainbox SLXi (I think) 6.5 components are very nice and not a lot of dosh (relatively speaking).

Does it look suspiciously like oil? :lol: In short - I doubt it, it's probably just congealed oil. If it's white and mayonnaise like, then it's water and cause for concern (but only if it doesn't go after taking the car out for a nice hot run).

Yeah, sorry the wiki's sort of dead at the moment, but it's at the top of the to-do list. Drilling out the 5-stud disks to 4-stud won't work as there's not really enough meat left on the disk to do it. However, Seat Leon Brembos (which I believe are 305mm) seems to be the most popular route to go... have a search and ye shall find.

I would have interjected here that there's a link to a wheel and tyre bible in the wiki, which includes a calculator to work out all this kind of thing. But as the wiki's semi-dead at the moment Lisa's link will do the job. :lol: This link for the terminally geeky though - http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

So you sit in the back seat, take the trim off and get a Stanley knife... then 14hrs, 8 packs of blades, 4 shredded fingers and more swear words than you thought you knew later... it's cut out and away you go :lol: Then you spend a few more hours cleaning it up so it's ready to be bonded back into the car with some Wurth black gooey stick stuff (windscreen bonder?). It's not a fun job...

Mine are Geometric's and Yan's got the red striped ones in his valver :) I think the red ones are the rarest, Geometric's next and the blue striped are the most common. Common being a relative term though...

That's the only combination they came in with the blue stripes, although I think that cloth type was only available in late-spec interiors.

+1 +2 :)

Not sure if you'll be doing the ball joints too, but if you are - hold a hammer on the back of the joint and hit it from the front with another hammer. Pops the joint with very little effort at all 8) Oh and remember to get a full 4-wheel, camber and tracking geometry setup after, so it'll drive like new :)

The engine was out when we (well, Toady) did mine, no idea. FYI - the suckers only fit back in a certain way. They go in nice and easily from the front of the car and slide back into place. ...however if you try to slide them into place sideways, they won't go. No matter how large the hammer is that you hit them with :lol: :oops:

I agree with all of the above. The general rule of thumb seems to be anything more than 300bhp (or more importly lb/ft of torque) through the front wheels gets a bit tricky to control. Essentially a tyre can either speed up/slow down or turn. It doesn't do both at the same time very well, hence why torque steer when accelerating hard becomes and issue. Having said that, a RWD car with silly power is even more likely to throw you backwards into a ditch than a front wheel drive one as the back gets a lot more twitchy. Again, it's related to a tyre only being able to do one thing at once. If you accelerate hard coming out of a corner in a FWD car and the front tyres lose grip and slide wide, you can correct it with steering. If you accelerate hard coming out of a corner in a RWD car and the rear tyres lose grip and slide wide... you can't correct it with steering, you can only fix it with your foot. If you're skilled enough, you can still cope with it, but it tends to be a bit easier to throw it backwards into a ditch :lol:

I'm glad it's not just me then! I think i'm gonna play it safe and replace the handbrake cables and have a look at the rubber brake gubbins - washes away all worries :D Dinkus - Do you know where they sell these repair kits from? GSF or *gulp* vw? GSF might sell them, but not 100% sure. Otherwise VW Definitely sell them for the aforementioned £15 a side :(

The rubber sealing boots can split on the handbrake cables, causing moisture to get in and then freeze. Plus you'll be getting general corrosion in there too which will eventually cease the cable regardless of temperature. The cables aren't too expensive, or that difficult to change (heck, even I could do it! :lol: ) There are also rubber boots that seal the pins that the calliper slides back and forth on. Again, if those have split, you'll get water freezing in them and/or generally poorly rear brakes. You can buy a (sadly £15 a side) kit to repair these, which involves 2 new boots and a sachet of fresh grease. Best to clean all of the hole out too though. The other possibility is that the pad is sticking to the disk as the moisture between the disk and pad has frozen... not much you can do about that, but it should sort itself out pretty quickly once you drive off.

Ah yeah, I forgot you Canadians have got a different setup. You've got sidelights on all the time, whereas we've got a 3-stage headlight switch (off, sidelights - the same as your running lights, main headlights). Plus you guys didn't get foglights, whereas we've already got ones with a switch in the dash to control them. Sooo your wiring may also be different to ours. Hmm, can anybody (looking in Mystic Rado's direction here :lol:) confirm what the UK Corrado setup is?

Oooh looks like the beam pattern is actually pretty good from those limited shots. I'd definitely be looking at some 4300K lights as they don't look too blue and you actually get more lumens of light outta the suckers too :norty: Out of interest - how have you wired yours up? I'm guessing you have: H4 Bi-Xenons - stage 1 is lit for dipped beam, both stages are lit for high-beam. H3 Xenons - off for dipped beam, on for high-beam Is that correct, or is the McCulloch kit just a single stage HID?

Thanks for the write-up Kip, I'd come to the same conclusion, but not sure what the best bulb shape is. As DDI sell the McCulloch kit, it's probably worth asking zarman why he stocks that kit - is it because the bulb shape is the best, or just because it seemed like a good quality kit? Also worth bearing in mind that North American Corrado lights are a different design to the rest of the world, so what works in one of their lights, might not work in "Euro" or "E spec" lights. The important thing you want to see is the beam pattern when you shine the lights against a wall - you can then see how sharp the edges of the beam pattern are and thus, how well the bulbs suit the headlight reflector. corradog60stage4 - if you could park a few metres away from a big wall and take a picture of your headlights shining on the wall, that'd be a big help to see... if/when we find the right type of bulbs for Corrado lights, we could well be onto a mass CF GB on them :lol: