dinkus

Wow. That's a whole different league of sad. I suspect the blue one got rained on or something devastating like that, so he simply had to sell it.

I'd personally go with 0AWG, but if you have a Google about there are charts that list what gauges are good for what DC loads. If you run the cable down the passenger side of the car, there is actually a hole in the bulkhead that was there for the AC pipework, which should be just about the right size.

I'd go with the clutch slave or release arm, although the clutch slave sounds more likely of the two. It's fairly easy to see and remove (hah, well as anything is in a VR engine bay) so you can check it out without going to the extent of taking the gearbox off. They're £60 or so to replace, but it'll be obvious pretty much straight away if it's dead.

UK price they are around £70ea. Yup, just bought a set for mine :( If you're dropping the wishbones out, chances are you may well need new ball-joints with their retaining plate and bolts too, which is another £25 or so a side from VAG. Alternatively, some Febi wishbones complete with bushes can be bought from http://www.vwspares.co.uk for £27.50 a pop - http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_suspension.php If you're feeling really tight, then you can just buy the bushes, which are peanuts from vwspares and about £50 all-in from VAG. They also sell a nice little kit with the ball joint, bracket, 3 bolts and nut for £6.50 a side (£25 from VAG) - http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info. ... cts_id=592 Not sure how much/if postage out to Portugal is though... If you're after VAG part numbers, I can have a rummage and post them up for you if needs be...

When we were doing my brakes, we tried one of these aforementioned spanners, but it just bent open and didn't help much. Might be worth a punt, but I'd rather spend the money on a can of PlusGas and let it soak for a nice long time.

These are often referred to as a moonroof, so might be worth searching for that to get a bit more info :)

Eek! You may not need new shocks, but you'll definitely need new top-mounts and top-plates. You may also need some welding done, depending on what exactly has rusted away, so best to take it to your local VW specialist to see what they say. I would also get them to take a look at the other side of the car as well, because if one has rusted through, the other won't be far behind!

I'd say if you're going for a gunmetal type colour, then they gotta be matt/satin finish so it looks meaner. It looks odd if they're glossy...hmm actually those steelies might look better if they were matt instead of gloss, as per Mr. Toady's comment...

Does that actually work? It'd work enough to get a better output, but I doubt it would last very long. New reflectors is the way forward really.

See, I'm gonna say no to the black steelies. IMHO black wheels (of any type) only really work on solid coloured cars. They just look a bit odd on metallics. White ones might work, but do you really want white weels? :? Some silver steelies would make it look a bit better colour-wise, but then it might just look like you've got some cheap steelies on. I vote that you keep them on until you've got the Speedies properly refurbished then get them back on. Balls to all this dangerous banded steelies Corsa-driving scenester crap :camp: :lol:

Plastikote Chome paint 8)

:cuckoo:

Is this the same sad git that did exactly the same thing with a VXR Astra a few months ago? Or do all anal-retentive detailers have the same silly blonde haircut?

It's still worth trying to order a badge from VW though. If they get enough people ordering them, they might do another run of them... you never know. And I'm sure you've worked it out, but any other badges on the back - Storm, VR6, G60, 16v, etc are all stuck on.

The Corrado badge is just a badge. According to my version of ETKA, the only version you can get is the chrome one, which is 3A0 853 675 The grommets are about 20p a pop, you need 4 of them and the part number is 191 853 615 A.

Depending on what kind of current/wattage you need, a computer power supply will do the trick :)

Hehe nice thinking, but it mounts the other way around, so would be a bit tricky. The R36 on the other hand...

You should get an error message telling you why it wouldn't take the file - File size, dimensions are too big or unsupported file type...

I'd use a hot air gun set on a low setting or a hair drier to heat them up and you should be able to carefully peel them off. You'll probably need some sticky stuff remover to get the gunge off after - have a look in Halfords to see what they've got. As for the paintwork - that's really going to depend on how long they've been on there. If you're lucky, the paint will be fine and just needs a wash, if you're not the paint might have faded everywhere apart from under the stickers.

Well if it were me, I'd be swapping the suspension out for something a little better/newer, but it depends on what kind of cash you can muster up. For a decent set of coilovers/suspension, you really want to be spending about £600+. Anything cheaper than that is going to die fairly quickly and/or ride like poop. It's worth getting the alignment checked anyway, as I'd wager the front is probably a fair way out and the rears can't really be adjusted anyway.

Ohh I love those ebay ads "here's a dyno plot a customer sent me" with no explanation as to what's what or even if one of the fan things was installed :lol: The thing that gets me is how he can't have a horrific negative feedback for "item is a sack of crap"... but then again, he's only claiming that you get 1-7hp gains and 2-4mpg difference. You can get that kind of difference by having different weather :lol: :(

Well if the car's never had an alignment, I'd wager that it's probably going to need adjusting. If you touch anything to do with the suspension (change bushes/have the struts undone/off/etc) you need to get the alignment checked afterward. So I'd start off with getting the shagged bushes replaced as they won't be helping. Once you've done them, get the car on a proper 4-wheel laser alignment rig. This is not something that Kwik Shit et al have. If you call up a decent local bodyshop, they'll most likely be able to point you in the right direction. You want to make sure it's a laser rig and it can do all 4 wheels, including front camber adjustment. It'll be computerised, so they should give you a print out of before and after values and the machine will know what they should be set to for a Corrado. The alignment should cost up to £70 (depends on where you go) but should sort the car out nicely. It's a good idea to get it checked every year or so, or if you clout anything particularly solid/give the car a jolt as the camber can get knocked out fairly easily.

Which day of the week was your car made on? I only ask as it seems to bear relevance to which fuse got what wired up to it :lol: Have a look on the fusebox cover and it should tell you what position the windows fuse is in. 99% chance that it won't be that fuse. However, it should (I think!) tell you what rating that fuse should be. So go through and check every fuse of that rating and you should eventually find the culprit. Also - just because the fuse box cover says your windows should be on the same fuse as say, your spoiler, that doesn't mean it is either. All the stuff that needed the same rating fuse is mixed and matched depending on day of the week, whether it was Steve of Klaus doing the wiring and whether the month had a Y in it or not :lol: Good luck!

Matt - If you hadn't spent so much cash chasing this, it'd almost be funny :lol: On the plus side, you know it's now going to be good for quite a while longer yet... Steve - have you had the alignment checked (4 wheels on a laser rig) recently? How shagged are your tyres? How shagged is your suspension?

Modified your title and moved to Suppliers :)