dinkus

I take it you're coming to Germany, so I can take a look at it for you and we can try a few things there to find out where it's coming from. My money is on a cack head unit earth, but we can testipoos.

Hehe, and you're saying Audi's don't all look exactly the same? :lol:

Steve, you're on drugs... the VW wishbones (for the VR) are £70 a side. Febi ones are £35ish. The 4 pot Febi wishbones are only £20 a side. Both include the bushes...

Nah, unfortunately not - US sites always list stuff excluding tax.

Aye, that's usually the way it works, so you'd be looking at £600 near as dammit for it delivered to your door. I presume you mean who decides the exchange rate to calculate the tax on? It'll probably be based on prime rate, which is floating around 1.8 at the moment, but it's unlikely to fluctuate by much more than £5 tops. You can check on http://www.xe.com for the latest numbers though.

Ah crap, I just had a thought - you can get brand new Febi wishbones here for £35 a side! - http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_suspension.php

...or just use some near lemon juice - it'll strip through pretty much anything, but don't leave it on too long

It sounds like it could be far worse, but still not much fun :( I'm sure you can get a second hand hub from somebody on here, wishbones are about £70 and then you'll need a 4-wheel alignment afterwards, which will probably be another £50.

I'm sure that ProdigalSon has been road-testing one of these for a few months now and he seemed to think it did actually make 1mpg or so difference, but it's hardly earth-shattering.

The airbox is Corrado only, but you may be able to find one from a Mk3 VR6 Golf or Passat that will fit.

I believe the front seals do just pull off, but be careful as they're hideously expensive new... The rear 1/4 windows are bonded in as a single piece window and seal. The only way to get them out is to cut them carefully out from the inside. If you do a neat job, you can clean up the glue stuff and re-use them.

What exactly are you after? Do you need the whole original airbox, or just the actual air filter itself? The filters are pretty cheap from VAG, but the airbox is Corrado-specific and about

I believe the boot lock barrel is the same as the rest of the lock barrels on the car, so can be retumbled. However, you need to have a matching key to start with, otherwise it's not physically possible to get the barrel out of the lock. So if you've got no keys for the lock(s), you're going to need whole new (or second hand) locks that have a matching key I'm afraid :( Once you've got them, you can then take the barrel out (usually a fairly obvious circlip that holds the barrel in if the lock's off the car) and take it to VW to get retumbled to your key for the rest of the car. They usually charge about £8 a lock.

You need to make sure that the reel is exactly the same way up as it is when it's bolted in the car - then gently rock the belt back and forward and it should release and pull out. Edit: They're designed to lock if they're not the right way up on the assumption that the car must have rolled and you would rather like to be kept in place...

2 spots of rust and Yan's got the whole car in pieces :lol: It is sad, but not too horrific to fix...just a bit of a ball-ache :( It does make you think about buying one of those car cradles you see at shows that really do just let you flip the car over onto it's side though...

Depending on if you're going to be changing the whole inlet manifold, or just the upper bit will obviously depend on if you need the lower gasket (part no. 9). I'd also suggest you have a few of the bolts and washers to hand as they're hex-head and you're likely to lunch a couple of them. They're part number N0147263 and come with the retained washers on them. You don't need to take the rocker cover off to swap the inlet manifold, but it might not be an idea replacing the gasket anyway if it's leaking. The early gaskets are for the metal rocker covers, the late ones are for the plastic rocker covers. If you need one - I've got a spare early-type rocker cover gasket, still in the VAG bag you can have for £15 posted.

I believe that the callipers are interchangeable, as there was somebody that posted up a picture the other week and they had both types fitted. The changeover will probably have been sometime around 1993, but it really depends on what the guy pulling the parts out of the bins felt like that day :lol: Either way, I'd suggest changing them in pairs, as if one's going the other one won't be far behind and you don't really want one side of the car braking more than the other. You can pick up second hand callipers for not much money at all (they're the same as Mk2 and Mk3 Golfs. If it were me, I'd take the opportunity to strip them down, clean them up, replace the seals (a piston seal kit from VW isn't expensive) and probably replace the slider pin boots and grease too (repair kit to do that is about £10 a side). Maybe even slap some Hammerite on there too if you're really keen. When they go back on, they'll be like new and good for another 10yrs or so. Oh and it's probably worth checking the state of the handbrake cable boots too - if they're split, then the cable will be corroding inside and is going to cease pretty soon, although they can easily be changed at a later date.

Evian's just like tap water, just with less chlorine in it, so I really wouldn't bother. Similarly, filtered water has got most of the minerals taken out of it, but for some reason remember reading about it being bad to use in engines. Distilled water is the best stuff to use, but TBH if you're bunging G12+ in there too, it won't make a wild amount of difference. The G12+ is anti-freeze, but also anti-corrosion...

I'd thought about doing this with my TPS account, but it's quite a lot of ball-ache to organise and postage would be pretty horrid on things like oil. Could be worth looking into for E38 though, then I could bung it all in the car and bring it up... hmm... Edit, in fact... viewtopic.php?f=1&t=71843 8)

Hmm, interesting about the sideblade - I'd noticed it was missing in the pics, but just assumed that was probably the result of the accident...

Second hand suspension doesn't go for much money at all. Especially tired, standard stuff that you'd probably struggle to sell. I'd strongly urge you to swap both sides at the same time though - not just the one. Suspension and brakes should always be done in pairs, otherwise it could end up handling rather dangerously if one side is more worn than the other.

If you use wire that's too thin, it'll get hot, conduct less well and possibly catch fire. However, as you've got fuses at each end that will pop long before the wire even gets hot, let alone catches fire, you should be fine. Especially as you only really need mega current for a few seconds while cranking the engine over. The only real risk is that you pop the fuses when you go to crank the engine over on a cold morning, but you can always wire it up outside the car first to see if it works...

Not as bad but they are too soft, don't bite well and fade easily... I went from Mintex extreme which altho braked well, were very dusty and squeeked to Greenstuff which were awful in comparison in terms of braking - I tried both of these and was still not getting the performance that I used to out of the Pagid FR pads so I then changed the the Ferodo DS2500's and wouldn't use anything else now! So what's the difference between the Mintex C-Tech (M1144s) and the Xtreme pads? I've just put some C-Techs on the back of mine and they bite like crazy!

Yeah, I don't think there's anything really that wrong with the current Greenstuff's. They're not all that exciting, but nothing like as bad as they used to be.

For those of the slightly confused disposition of how to convert between AWG to mm[sup:3tu09p8u]2[/sup:3tu09p8u], there's a little calculator and chart here - http://www.reuk.co.uk/AWG-to-Square-mm- ... verter.htm FYI 50mm[sup:3tu09p8u]2[/sup:3tu09p8u] is near as dammit, 0AWG 8)