dinkus

From what I can remember H8RRA had more than his fair share of "when me and ChrisVR6nos..." stories :lol: I've managed to bugger the jubilee clip on the fuel line so when I changed the fuel filter and started it up there was a concerning "pisssssssssss" noise as fuel came shooting out of the pipe at 4bar... :?

Mechano has a lot to answer for the mental health of certain individuals of today's society!!! :lol: ROFL :lol:

I think you misunderstood my conversation about getting a pink probe...

I think that's the problem - the new R32s are FSI too, so you're buggered either way. From looking at the ETKA diagrams (not the most accurate reference it has to be said), certainly the exhaust manifold for the R36 is considerably bigger than the 3.2, so I'm not sure how much different the inlet is. Somewhat irrelevant though really as I'm fairly sure it's FSI. And yeah, 700+hp would be pretty mad, but er why bother in a FWD car? It'd be undrivable.

Dang, too late to suggest these

Definitely need to get them printed professionally Zip. My plan was to put up a for-sale thread and collect money and then when we've got numbers then order. As I'm sure people have realised - my organisation is shocking, so if anybody a little bit more with-it wants to take that task on, let me know :)

Come now, it clearly won't work as your car would need to be white to start with. You also forgot the pink window tints too. Amateurs :roll:

It's also worth noting that the new R32 engines in the Mk5s also use the same engine, albeit with a smaller bore. Which means no dice if you're trying to do a quick swap with one of them either. If you were going to get silly power out of the R36 then it'd be worth it, but at best you're talking 50bhp more, at worst it'll be the same kind of power.

Dammit, you try and keep your new set of wheels under wraps until E38 and then someone comes along and ruins it :( :lol:

Have I gone to sleep and woken up on a certain vauxhall forum? :? I don't think this one's been crashed... :lol:

Not necessarily because what exactly got wired to which fuse seemed to depend on what day of the week it was and which bloke was doing it. When my spoiler popped a fuse, it took out the fuse that also did the ABS and sunroof. Essentially - check all the fuses to see if they're OK.

Correct. Bitte is please Ein is one Bit is short for Bitburger "One Bit please" is indeed the translation, but it's clever cos Bit and Bitte rhymes...

Rumbungo Rumbungo, they drink it at the car show...

My car is a shed and might get cleaned, but I'm coming along. Just won't be putting my car up on the stand.

You're a mentalist! :lol:

So I (secretly!) got to the point of actually buying an R36 engine and spent a lot of time researching what needs to be done to get it to fit, including spending a good amount of time talking to Storm. Sadly, the whole project was looking like it was going to cost in the region of £5k to get running and involve a whole world of unknowns. That could have been ok, but you're only realistically looking at 50-80hp more than the Mk4 R32. Differences Firstly, the new generation VRs are 10.6 degree V, not 15 as per engines of old - this makes the engine slightly longer and taller. They are all (so far) mounted longitudinally in all cars you can buy them in and have slightly different mounting points. Most importantly - the engine runs on FSI which is a direct-injection system similar to that used by diesels. Physically fitting it You can probably get the engine to physically fit in the car - Storm have had one running in a Mk4, but it will involve custom engine mounts and you are likely to have issues with the additional height of the engine. It looks like you can probably bolt the standard VR or 02M gearbox up to the engine (same stud pattern), but as the engine is a different size, you'll also need custom drive shafts. Similarly, as you're now mounting the engine transverse, you'll definitely need a custom downpipe and ideally manifold too. These problems can probably be overcome. However, the really difficult bit is the engine management. Due to this FSI lark, you have the following options: Run it stock To do this, you'll need the engine, ECU, loom, clocks, ignition barrell and all 12 or some silly number of lambda probes, including the dual-cat system. Again, as all of the current engines are mounted longitudinally, the exhaust won't fit, so you'll need to modify it, making sure that you maintian all the probes in the right distances along the pipework. Run it on aftermarket management Nothing currently exists to do this. You need 100V range voltages to operate the high pressure fuel rail, then 100A range current to fire the injectors. Not to mention a completely different set of timings than a traditional manifold injection engine. The Storm boys say they're developing an ECU to do this based on Emerald, but speaking to Dave Walker at Emerald he's not got time to even start on it at any point in the forseeable future. I think Storm have started looking for components to drive the thing, but it's all going to be very experimental and very, very expensive - sounds like in the region of £3k+ for an ECU. Swap the manifold and run it as a conventional injection system on aftermarket management You can swap in the inlet manifold for a conventional one and the use an aftermarket ECU to run the engine. Problem is - no inlet exists, you'd also need to make/find a fuel rail and also buy an aftermarket ECU. On top of all that, you'd likely get slightly less power out of it, so you'd end up with something that's not much more powerful than a standard R32. So as you can see it's not a very simple or cheap task to undertake at the moment. Having said that, give it a couple of years when someone has devised an after-market ECU to drive FSI (and interestingly the same thing could probably be used to drive an after market TDI) then it'll be a fairly easy task. If you're still game then I've got details of a guy who was selling brand spanking new, never fitted to a car 3.6 engines from a Touareg (BHK engine code) for £1500 but they are just the basic engine, so no alternator, PAS pump, exhaust manifold, etc...

It depends on what vintage your C is - the later cars have a 70 litre fuel tank instead of a 50 litre one, so the boot floor is slightly higher. Either way, you'd need a different boot carpet with a big hump in it to accomodate the full-size spare. I've actually got the situation where my space saver is only good for the back wheels - it won't fit over the front brakes. So if I get a flat on the front, I gotta swap a wheel with the back and put the space saver on the back... or just call the AA and watch a movie :lol:

The foam stuff does work, but a lot of fitters will refuse to repair the tyre afterwards. That's mainly cos it makes a nasty mess that's a complete pig to clean up though. If you get a particularly bored/sadistic fitter then they might have a crack. TBH tho - if you've got breakdown cover anyway, use that... :lol:

Mennnnnnnnntal :D

Yeah sorry - after all that back to the time honoured "plug it into VAG-COM mate" :lol:

If it's a clean engine stop after a few seconds, then it's almost 100% immobiliser related - have a search and you should find more info on what causes issues. If it coughs and splutters and eventually dies then it's probably MAF related.

If you weren't using it much then you should be ok - some people go around stamping on the pedal and letting the ABS do all the work then wonder why all their brake fluid is gushing out of the ABS pump after 3 laps :lol: My guess would have been the rotor thingies with the slots in, yeah. If they all look ok then not sure really, but VAG-COM should be able to tell you.

5.25" is just not big enough to get decent low frequencies out of. Some dynamat or similar in the door will help you keep a tiny bit more bass in, but it's still going to sound limp. The Audioscape door pods do help the cause by adding a bit more low down grunt, but at motorway speeds you really do need a sub. It doesn't have to be huge or make a chavvy booom boooom boooom noise, but you set it up to fill out the bottom end and take over from the front speakers. I've got mine set so that you can't actually tell there's a sub in the car until you turn it off and realise that it's been filling in all the low-down stuff. The Infinity Basslink boxes seem to be the easiest/tidiest all-in-one option, but it will take up a lot of space. The other option is a box with a sub bolted into it, along with a power amp. The Audioscape sub enclosure is nice and tidy, but somewhat pricey, but you can always just go for a normal bass box. You can quite happily bolt the amp to the back of the rear seats, so it won't take up colossal space and TBH even a relatively cheap power amp will more than do the job. Edit: pretty much as Steve and Sam said :)

Yeah cos that'll happen :lol: Besides, who wants to go into London anyway, let alone drive there...

Are you sure the window switches are actually broken? If there aren't bits rattling around inside they might just need a clean. If you get a can of electrical contact cleaner in Halfords and douse them with a load of that - do they spring back into life? If not, post up on here in the wanted section - the same goes for the other body parts you need. There's usually a car or two being broken. There were two variants of the interior and the front end in the Corrado, so you want to know which of each you've got. Early interior has slidey heater controls and window switches set vertically in the door. Late interior has dial heater controls and switches set in the door pod, facing up. Early front end had recessed foglights, narrow front wings, slightly more vertical headlights, many-slatted grille and a bonnet that has a dip in the middle. Late front end has almost flush fogs, slightly wider front wings, slightly more sticky-out headlights, 4-slat grille and a bonnet with a bulge in the middle. The parts are mostly interchangeable, but if you get ones that don't match, it'll be obvious when you bolt them on.