davidwort

yep, from 1988 up to about 1994 when the passat finally went ABF mk3 16v engine and ribbed belts Passats will sometimes have the 65amp especially on the early 1.8 KR ones.

whichever brand they do now is 10/40 semi synthetic

yes, VW or Euro car parts, about the same price. I think they are a lot more from Euro Dave - I looked at prices yesterday seeing what I could get with the 20% off but they still came out more expensive yeah, they are nearly 40 quid including vat from ECP (they're listed as out of stock ATM) I think that would work out about 34 including the VAT now with a trade discount from ECP Is £25 from VW with discount but not VAT then? - is that a current price, it's very good, just wish I'd bought more of the early glasses, couple of years ago I had one from VW including the VAT for 17 quid :shock:

yes, VW or Euro car parts, about the same price.

My vote is for the HG going between the two cylinders too.

There was a bike to work scheme where you could get your employer to give you a loan to buy a bike and they stop a certain a mount from your wages each month but before tax so you save the % you would have paid tax and NI. My mate got a lovely Scott full sus bike, spent £1500 on it :shock: Lovely bike but i'd want a motor on it for that money. And he got really seriously into biking, however theres one thing a man should not wear and that's spandex cycling shorts! Unfortunately the image of my mate in his is one that will scar me for life :pukeright: yes, and the inland revenue has just cottoned onto this tax dodge and is sending people some quite big bills at the end of the 'rental' period, basically they allowed the final purchase price (depreciation from new) to be too low, most of the people I know at work bought expensive mountain bikes and have never used them for work.

yep, 90 amp bosch alternator (as fitted to passat) is the one you want, basically the same as the 65 but with a bigger body, same pulleys and fitment to front of engine though. When VW went to ribbed belts the alternators changed too, so you can't swap pulleys and use a mk3 golf alternator, you'd need to convert to the full ribbed belt system and change the crank pulley/damper etc

Starters, alternators, fuel pumps, lots of this stuff has a myriad of part numbers for slightly different versions, try getting a VW dealer to order you the right alternator pulley, they haven't got a clue either :lol: I think the '#' is for replacement parts to earlier versions/numbers, 'X' is exchange. '>' prefix seems to be a part that has been superceeded :shrug:

just the fuse list I think

if you want to compare the physical shape/size of other starters, I've got a KR 16v one on my 1990 and obviously a 2E one on the 8v 2.0L, I've also got a couple of spares that are late passat 8v one's I think, I picked these up when the solenoid on my 16v was getting weak. Providing the casting of the solenoid bracket/body of the main motor is the same position and doesn't foul the other components in the G60 engine bay then I reckon any corrado or passat (4cyl) starter will work, the G60 isn't high compression so I can't imagine it needs a diesel sized starter or anything. Like I said, only other issue is one of the connector blocks changed shape on the post 1992 cars I think, but I think you can bodge even that.

I'd have thought the engine/head water jacket would be perfectly capable of keeping the engine (and so the oil) cool enough at idle or crawling without the oil/water heat exchanger. But good to keep the heat exchanger as it does help balance coolant and oil temps at all times and good for warm up and economy as mentioned, bigger power VW engines still use them (albeit with a bigger capacity)

they vary according to year (chassis no 50-N-000001 on uses later style connections to starter/solenoid) and then the part numbers suffixed with 'X' are exchange items you'll find that pretty much any 4 cyl 02A gearbox starter will work, but they changed the motor sizes to suit engine sizes and compression from the 2L 8v, G60, 16v's etc... here's the ETKA info: starters.jpg[/attachment:jbge94nh]

Yes, it's just barely below average. I think it reads at about a 12.6 or something. think you have your Amps and Volts confused, current drain with engine off should be arounnd 0.01A IIRC and that's with an immobiliser and live wired (but turned off) head-unit battery should be near 13V when new, 12.5 when older and alternator should maintain about 14V across battery when engine is running, shouldn't drop much with lights, HRW, blower etc., switched on either.

the grey paint is more to do with storage of the parts and removing the need to carefully degrease new discs (unpainted ones are lightly oiled to prevent corrosion before fitting), it does seem to protect the unswept parts of the discs on the car for a fair while, both the front discs on one of my cars (been on for nearly a year) and the rears on my other have little corrosion, but I'm sure a full winter of salty roads will put pay to that.

I don't think you want something that conducts, the switch contacts themselves should touch, metal to metal, the lubricant is there more to help the plastic parts slide and no wear and to stop the metal surfaces corroding. Found at least one manufacturer that makes lithium grease for car switches (names mnfrs other than VW) and plently of references that say silicone grease is fine, I guess it just needs to be something that won't damage plastic parts.

it's a combination of things, shallow profile new standard type wiper blades so the blades don't get pressed to the screen with unmodded standard arms and weak old springs on the original arms so sometimes it's nothing more than grinding the rests on the arms or bending them, other times a new arm with a new strong spring will be needed.

I wonder if you did that like I did the first time, at full air flap opening, apparently they can behave quite a bit differently at low opening/idle on the air flap from the metering head and dribble more than spray. This explains why a k-jet car can go very well at full throttle but be a pain to start and idle, also gets poor mpg. But if it's running OK now I reckon it's more likely those o rings on the injectors or perhaps the plunger in the metering head was sticking.

2.8 24v lump would be easier and far cheaper to come by, I've seen good low miles ones go for around 500 quid, would make a far more cost effective replacement, it's a lovely smooth engine, and not everyone seems happy with the drive of the 3.2 in a Corrado.

sounds like air leaks around the injector O rings or something, 200K is pushing it a bit for K-ject injectors (100K and they are well past their best) the spray pattern will be poor which won't help on starting and idling particularly, did you do an injector spray pattern test?

anyone know what sort of grease to use on indicator/MFA stalks and other switches? and where I might pick some up? VW seem to use a funny creamy coloured grease and I'm guessing plain silicone grease won't do :shrug: Maplins do this white spray grease and I already have a tube of clear silicone grease that Maplins reckon is for use on electric switch contacts too?

so what voltage do you get across the battery with the engine running?

ah, right, if wikipedia is right the S40/V40 is/was made in holland and is based on the mitsubushi charisma, so it's not really a proper volvo anyway, that might go some way to explaining why it's built to last 10 years unlike the old tanks they used to make.

use the search Luke viewtopic.php?f=1&t=86274&hilit=vr6+alternator

oh dear, I know nothing about welding but those pics did look pretty nasty, thought the old volvos were pretty good on underbody protection, being from Scandanavia and all :shrug:

windscreen bonding adhesive, VW dealer should be able to order you a tube, or you might blag some from an Autoglass van man :)