davidwort

S/H or new? If new were from

just look at the distributor as a guide providing that hasn't been removed, the O and T marks are for TDC and 6 degrees before TDC

Idle valve is the usual suspect

I agree, I had one that was never coming undone. My advice would be to cut the 10mm nuts off in the engine bay if any are suspect (and if you have a dremel), as they are easy and cheap to replace. If you want to think 20 years into the future then give them a coat of hammerite when you put them back in :)

I'm pretty sure they do, whenever I've tried to fix one there's plenty of DIY forums where the same crap parts are mentioned, but to be fair you can't expect much for a couple of hundred quid. The thing that made me laugh the most was the 'superseded' parts, it was just like cars, damper designs changed, chassis mountings and fixings beefed up. You don't get quite the same reward watching your clothes wash after you changed a door seal though that you get after fixing a headgasket and getting to drive a Corrado again :)

I think you may have a bad fan run on switch, to stop heat build up in the fuel lines the fan will run with the ignition off if the under bonnet temp is high enough, not sure where it is on your engine but this is separate to the radiator temp switch usually

Yep, everything is marked as 191 part numbers, the only differences are the ducting tubes to the dash vents which are corrado dash specific, the motor, housing and main distribution unit with all the flaps is all mk2 parts Just checked and the rhd corrado uses the distribution unit 192819353a, the 192 prefix is the rhd version of mk2 golf part numbers.

The main distribution unit is all mk2 golf parts

Looks like SP to me too.

16v doesn't have fault code memory iirc, can be a pain to diagnose, even Stealth hated them, ke-jet was a real stop-gap to allow cats on the 16v engine until vw developed a full efi system

Nice looking pair of cars you have there, don't envy you keeping the golf's wheels clean though :-)

have you done the basic checks, fuel pump and ecu relay, spark/hall sender, fuel delivery? The engine is basically K-jet (like a mk1 GTI or early 80's ford) but with limited lambda control and providing you have fuel and spark it will run in basic k-jet mode although you may have idling issues. If it was running but idling badly then I'd look at water temp and lambda sensor etc, but it seems more fundamental than that, if the mechanical timing is OK (not jumped cambelt teeth etc) then find a kjet book and check the basics.

you'd have thought they've got more pressing issues than seeing insulting messages in foreign TV crews number plates, the country is (still/again) in a massive mess, not helped by blaming everyone else instead of facing up to reality. I only recently discovered that if it wasn't for the Falklands war they would have been fighting Chile over other 'strategically important' islands http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beagle_conflict

I wouldn't use a dremel for rust removal, you need something much more beefy, but as dremels go I got a 3000 from Amazon for a good price, it's the cheaper of the more powerful range, bought too many cheap alternatives of various kit in the past so in this case went for something with a good reputation.

pensioners, that's the problem, too many, living too long, spending all day draining the NHS, they vote too much and have protected benefits increases, not too mention they have all the assets, next time you see one on a zebra crossing accelerate! in all seriousness, baby-boomers need to pay more tax, especially on property, what school leavers have any chance of their own home these days?

have you seen how much it is to tax a less efficient car though?, no doubt it will have to change but a post 2001 car over 186g/km is from £265 to £500 per year, for comparison my 40mpg 1.6 golf is 167g/km (£205) so there must be a lot of vehicles over £205 still on the roads, plus anything over 1549cc and pre 2001 is now £230 pa (all our Corrados :( )

no, but if you want to look at it like that you did vote in Labour and they royally f****d up the whole economy and allowed Scottish banks to do a more than their fair contribution to it. Don't think any one political party is better or worse than another, they all have they own pros and cons and are partly a product of our own simplistic views of rights and wrongs, just count yourself lucky you're not ruled by French/Italian/Greek etc. politicians, our lot are pretty honorable in comparison.

If the camber is ok, slightly negative, and the front track is roughly parallel then I suspect you have a steering rack problem, it could be that the valving in the rack is shot, the Corrado pas is pretty heavy, does the pump sound ok? You should get a slight whine from it when you turn the wheel with the car stationary, engine running, quiet and no fluid blasting into the reservoir when not turning.

R32? That's only for wishbone rear bushes, r32 doesn't have a rear beam

Have a look through my 16v thread, had mine for 18 years!

You unbolt the pump from the block, don't try to split the pump on the engine, 10mm bolts. You just need to remove the alternator, slacken the pas pump mountings and remove and lower the pump and support on something then it's all clearbolt and remove the bracket both the alternator and pas pump were attached to. once it's all clear the waterpump has 13mm bolts to the block

yep, the upload just does nothing if the image is too large, not great. to upload you need to 'Go Advanced' when writing a reply and then 'manage attachments'

Any good: http://www.componentforce.co.uk/category/206/foam-sleeves

look really good, ta for the pics, might have to look into this myself spent far too long wire brushing caliper carriers etc :)

To meet insurance/thatcham requirements alarm installers cut a fair length of ignition loom from under the dash/steering column, can be a real pain to repair, but you should be able to match the colours of the original sections of loom in and out of the alarm and/ or immobiliser control box