davidwort

any decent motor factor should have a parts bin or two full of them, when you tighten up the new clamp they hook into place on themselves and you just hook them over on the tightest position by hand and them tension them up by squeezing the pinched section with a pair of pincer nosed pliers, the type with the curved jaws, not the proper tool but does the job fine.

anything's possible! would look pretty good if done right I reckon, it's not going to be plug and play though :) then your major problem would be getting hold of one without having to risk a prison sentence for obtaining it, dread to think what VW would charge for all the parts new :pale:

you can get proper brake line clamps, two round metal bars hinged together with a locking clip, but I don't like them as they crush the line and they definitely wouldn't be good for longer than just swapping a caliper over straight away. what you really want is something like a plumbing cap-off hat to screw on, or a female union with a crimped off pipe or hose on the other end. I don't like fully draining any brake system, especially one with ABS on it, as getting the air out can be a real hassle.

they've really made a mistake with that current peugeot family nose, huge bulbous fat chunks of plastic on most of them making them look even cheaper than they are, seems like a poor job of bringing in the rounded pedestrian friendly front ends compared to other manufacturers. but then I've never liked any peugeots :lol:

good work Mr T :salute: great to see it coming together, I'm having a bit of a negative Corrado spell myself, need to revive my interest somehow.

drill the head off it. or you could weld a wheel bolt to it, didn't see that option in the poll :)

no, actually those parts are right I've just checked, the track rods are different but the track rod ends are actually the same part on 4cyl and 6 cylinder Corrados

191 is a mk2 golf part, so I think they've given you 4 cylinder Corrado ones

no, that's the last thing you want :lol:

Arb bushes need the subframe dropping down... Not a 5 second job.... EH! are arb bushes dramatically different on a VR then, cause it took me 10 minutes to do mine up on a garage ramp. and those prices for fitting are shocking, are we talking VW dealer 90 quid and hour here or what?

yeah, that's why I asked the question, as the Gatso takes two pics on the grid at a set time interval to prove the speed in addition to the speed sensor triggering it in the first place. Whereas the Truvelo/traffic light cameras use induction loops laid into the tarmac. So a gatso has to be facing the right way to take two pictures of the rear of the car, I triggered one years ago on a single carriageway, facing it, never heard anythjing from that, but then in some areas less than 1 in 3 gatsos has film or even the camera unit in it as they are so expensive, they move the camera unit around from box to box so you've got a good chance of avoiding a ticket anyway. Oh and apparently on a gatso if you do over 165mph they'll only get one pic of you on the grid :lol:

well it was a GSF special, looked like an OEM one but was a fair bit stiffer, I subsequently found out more than one person had used them specifically for track day mk2's :lol: It actually had some give in it, just a lot less than the old VW one and less than the new FEBI one I ended up buying from AVS from this experience I guessed that firmer VT or similar ones would not be for me, trouble is the 16v engine is not the smoothest in the world and what you might get away with on a VR6 just transmits a lot of vibration through the subframe on a valver. with a front mount youv'e got a fair bit more insulation from vibration as the front subframe is mounted in rubbers itself, and it's the front of the engine that lifts anyway, not the rear, the engine just sits on that really.

FWIW I hated a rear mount that was stiffer than standard, just transmits loads of vibration through the subframe, the small gearbox mount is fine as it is, and a Vibratechnics front (road mount) will transmit a bit more vibration (especially at idle) but has some movement and will stop the engine riding up when you accelerate hard.

a big thank you for taking the time to photo and write that all up :clap: picture 9 with all the arrows made me chuckle :)

[strike:2m8r0c2u]how many miles are you doing a week?[/strike:2m8r0c2u], old valver heads do tend to suck oil down the inlet valve guides and can burn anything up to a Litre every 1000 miles or so and still be perfectly healthy. If you're burning a litre every 500 or less then that's a little on the high side, but as long as the emissions are OK I wouldn't worry too much, not really worth stripping the head down until it's blowing clouds of blue smoke out the back :)

you should be able to get all the parts from GSF too, although not every branch seem to be able to find both of the sizes of o ring on their systems :roll: the injectors are the same as the mk2 golf 16v ones, as are the inserts, it may be easiest to get the seals and inserts from VW they shouldn't be much, price up the injectors from VW but you may save a fair bit by shopping around for them. You can do a few checks to see how good the injectors are, there's a thread on here somewhere showing how I sprayed all of the injectors into bottles to check the spray patterns and amount of fuel delivery. You basically lift the flap in the metering head and jumper the fuel pump relay pins on the fuse board, so you don't have to crank the engine over. K-jet injectors last very well, the spray pattern eventually deteriorates but usually doesn't affect the performance much, you might get slightly better starting and smoother running with brand new injectors.

the K-jet injectors flow well enough for a couple of hundred bhp, more than you'll get from a non-turbo car, nothing wrong with them. the injector inserts are removed with a big allen key/socket IIRC, they're hex shaped inside

yeah, doing one thing will make it feel better but probably just increase wear on the older items, but the things that make the most difference seem to be rear wishbone bushes and rear beam bushes. I had worn inner track rod joints which improved the steering no end when replaced, but you can check for play in those and bottom ball joints, top mounts etc and only do them if they show signs of play.

never thought about this really, I guess feed 1 to the motor is run through a resistor (like the interior blower does for it's speeds) and feed 2 is just direct 12v, the rad switch providing the 2 temp switched circuits to the fan relay pack, which is hidden somewhere on the early cars IIRC, in front of the header tank on the late ones.

what type of camera? a gatso (with the white markings on the road) or and induction loop triggered truvelo?

there's been a few discussions about this and I think the general consensus seems to be that on a standard (and non-forced induction) car, especially one with a smaller engine and more space in the engine bay, like the 16v, there's little need for a cold air pickup. Once you get moving the flow of air is so great under the bonnet heat isn't going to be a problem. My 1.6 16v mk4 actually has the standard inlet to the air box under the bonnet near the top of the radiator!

absolutely! and the individual parts are very expensive from VW, it's not so much the rubuild work as the cost of the components that makes up the lions share of the bill, so far better to get a gearbox builder with a good reputation to do it, as the cost (if all the necessary bits are replaced) will be much the same. Cheap rebuild can only be missing parts!

perhaps you have a cold start valve/temp sensor issue just at the same time by coincidence, never heard of a 2L with this problem just by fitting a KR inlet and the overbore shouldn't make any difference. If it runs fine through the revs and under load then I think that rules out a hall sender or metering head problem.

harder to start usually means the ignition is too far advanced, conversely an engine with really retarded ignition is very easy to start. Are you sure the engine and ignition timing was all put back spot on after the cam swap?

lol, I can see why it was miss read but didn't think you seriously meant fitting a mk4 beam to a corrado. looking at my mk4, the major difference to the mk2/3 design is the springs are mounted separately to the dampers, the bushings are also angled rather than perpendicular to the side line of the car. I can't see whay it would be a massively different job to doing a mk2/3/Corrado one though, brake lines, mounting bolts etc would all take about the same amount of time I'd have thought. Damper should be easy to disconnect, can't remember exactly how the spring is seated on the beam. these might help: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfmk4shock.gif[/attachment:1n9v1zuw] mk4beam.gif[/attachment:1n9v1zuw]