Yandards

Humn, interesting thread. Engine has only done 80k but needs a quick change first (Oil is filthy) but will put silko in after I think.

Thanks for making my point. I am not saying that the claims of up to are true, just that during Autoexpress' controlled test the new Philips bulbs performed around 50% better than the next best bulb; which was around 30% better than stock. As I have already fitted the 'next best bulb' I do expect a healthy improvement from the Philips units, around 50% better... :wink: As for uprated looms after speaking to plenty of people that have them I do not feel that they are reliable enough to be used - too many cases of water getting in and causing the lights to cut out (Usually on a dark country road)

I did mention that Henny but not as directly as you have ;)

Ground crew is a 'proper' term for the engineering types who fix the planes. (Lost in internet translation as to if you are taking the pee or not :oops: :wink: ) As for milled/flush rivets there are a myriad of different types available but I do recall the film the 'Aviator' having a line in it about 'just mill the rivet heads'

Autoexpress recently carried out their annual bulbtest. Top of the tree was the 50% brighter Halfords super brilliance bulbs producing a score of 107 in their test criteria. However the real story was the new Philips X-treme Power bulbs which they tested but could not get a random sample of. The bulbs are available in a H4 fitment at standard Corrado wattages and scored a massive 143 in the test. As a comparison the Osram silverstars (+50%) scored a poor 85 in the test. A furthur comparison can be made by comparing OE fit bulbs, the highest scoring of these was the Hella bulbs with a rating of 75. (Lowest was 59) So by fitting a set of the new Philips X-treme power bulbs you should get just under twice the light level you did with the best OE bulbs. As a furthur comment on this I have used OE bulbs in my C without an uprated loom since I had it, but recently upgraded to the Halfords Super Brilliance units. I was very pleased with the improved lighting levels and I can expect the same level of increase again by fitting the Philips units. As soon as I source a pair I will post some feedback on the results. It was also recommended that you change your bulbs every two years for new ones as the light levels reduce over usage. £25 for a pair from here: http://www.powerbulbs.co.uk They are out of stock at the moment but here is a discount code for 10% off : XVQAV170

Doubt it was the aircrew.. :roll: As for which is more aerodynamic then you will get decreased drag by polishing and waxing a car, and coating the windows and windscreen in rainX (smooths out imperfections and reduces turbulence - hence less drag) The lower car may not neccessarily be anymore aerodynamically efficient than the standard one in a windtunnel but as previously mentioned it should perform slightly better 'on the road' with regards to lift at high speed. The spoiler disrupts the airflow at the rear of the car, therefore creating turbulence which in turn reduces lift and increases drag. What it does do in terms of real World performance is reduce the lift at the rear end of car and therefore stop the car losing grip at the rear wheels. It does work but I would argue that the benefits of it are not really apparent until speeds of over 70mph have been achieved. This is in fact the speed that Karmann originally intended for the spoiler to be deployed at but the speed winnies had it lowered for this country.

Very subtly done, really OE effect but to be honest if you need a shift light you must be deaf.

Dunno but it is not for a Corrado but it will be a red/black badge with the QN5 suffix. I would guess it is from a mk.II/III golf.

Voting/ed Bloody volvos.. 200 behind still!

Both of mine below but the alloy wheel sizes they are quoting on here are way wrong.. Not quite sure what is going on with the 'sports suspension' quoted on my valver either. VR6 X2B = national sales program Great Britain B0N = component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts C5K = alloy wheels 9J x 19 G0C = 5-speed manual transmission H1V = TYRES 205/50 R 15 V J1L = battery 280 A (60 Ah) M1M = 6-cylinder gasoline engine 2.9 L/140 kW VR6 Motronic, closed-loop catalytic converter, base engine is T6Q Q1D = sports front seats 1AE = electronic differential lock (EDL/ABS) 1G9 = space-saving spare wheel for temporary use, radial tire (5-hole) 1MV = leather steering wheel 3AE = outer right rear view mirror: flat, powered, heated 3BF = outer left rear view mirror: convex, powered, heated T6Q = components for, base engine, unit 021.D 3FD = electric sliding/pop-up sunroof 9BA = without additional electric safety package 9HA = without additional malfunction display 9C2 = without special low beam mode but with "coming and leaving home" function for ROW" 8GD = alternator 90A 8RL = six loudspeakers (passive) 8TD = rear fog light for driving on the left 4A3 = seat heater for front seats separately controlled 8BF = halogen headlight for driving on the left 8WD = integrated front fog light 1BA = standard suspension/shock absorption 16v X2B = national sales program Great Britain 1AB = power brake 1BE = sports suspension/shock absorption B0N = component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts 3FD = electric sliding/pop-up sunroof L0R = right-hand drive vehicle C0J = alloy wheels 7J x 16 "Montreal" offset 45" H1R = tires 185/55 R 15 V 4KC = side and rear windows tinted 4GF = windshield, tinted 1MG = leather trimmed sports steering wheel with reduced diameter for power steering(hollow rim) 1G3 = alloy spare wheel with original equipment tires 8K2 = daytime driving light mode for urban driving 8BF = halogen headlight for driving on the left U0L = instrument insert with tachometer clock and mph speedometer 8D4 = with 4 loudspeakers (passive) 8TD = rear fog light for driving on the left 8F2 = side turn signal lights 8GC = alternator 65A 8U0 = without additional instruments for distance measurement 1TB = fuel tank vent line with gravity valve and PVC breather hose 3L7 = electric height and backrest adjustment for both front seats

Like the idea of a rolling road though.. not a value one mind!

Thanks again Toad will pass the info on - harldy any good cars for sale up in this part of the world. If there is Rodders will just nick the interior out of them anyway! ;)

The factory G60 inlet manifold is not ideal, it is after just a slightly modified NA 8v manifold and as such can not be considered as designed for FI. Mind you it is in the same league as the factory TB - noticeable improvement in throttle response just by a bit of knife edging really points towards the fact that VW thought the G ladder development was costing far too much.

Like Rodders remember seing this on the telly a while back. Would love that amount of workshop space to play with - just too expensive in this country.

A good body shop should be able to get a match these days, spraying metallics and colour matching is much better than it used to be.

Thanks Toad. Bit of trek from up here to winchester!! It is not for me but a friend who has been looking for one for months now so I will pass the info onto him.

Hallo, After chatting to the Dinkus he mentioned that one of you spotted a mk I 'rocco in brown. If you could PM me with the details and any more info that would be much appreciated.

I was only referring to the 16v head, no way it would fit on the G.

Yes several companies but no-one over here unless you count Daz at G-werks importing what few BBM kits are left over. The problem you will have is the brake servo, all the kits are designed for left hand drive cars and move the alt to the back of the engine - right where the brake servo is on UK spec cars. As such you will need to fab some brackets so you can mount a VR style alternator under the charger - where the aircon normally goes is an ideal place. I would also bin the tensioner system and just use the spring on the alt ala 2.0l MK.III goofs and IIRC the later 'rados too. As for the rest of the parts, exhaust manifold is already pretty good on a valver but I would get it gasket matched, you will benefit from changing the downpipe to a much more free-flowing one as FI requires no back pressure unlike NA. Have a look here for good bolt on bits and solutions to many of the 16vG60 installtion issues. http://www.rp-motorsport.de/en/g-lader/16v-g60-powerkit.htm S2 pistons and rods will give you around 8.5:1 in a KR block although you can run higher 9.5:1 is about the max I would recommend. (Original VWM engine ran 8.8:1)

Cut down RS2 manifold is more than up to the task too.

And make the old dude (that normally 'cleans' it) cry?! Why not it is some form of car abuse he is carrying out..

You have too many spare days... I wish..

Must take me about a day of good light to do the outside properly and another day to do the inside.

Yes I am fairly sure the H4 changes over when main beam is selected. You can also get 'brilliance' bulbs in H3.

Not strictly true Henny (although your block might be a bit larger there is still a restriction based on the head not the displacement of the block) According to CNC's site the big valve G60 head flows 118.1 CFM on the inlet and 79.7 CFM on the exhaust. By comparison the standard 16v head they tested flows 117.0 CFM on the inlet and a much healthier 91.2 CFM on the exhaust. Although I completely agree that it is a much bigger PITA to fit :lol: Polishing and porting is still very much a black art and unless you have access to a flow bench then the only route I can ever recommend for guarenteed power gains is to go to CNC heads/G werks. This is the only company that will give you a 1% tolerance on their quoted figures and as such provide a service unmatched by any other company.