Yandards

I think this is a problem within the whole VW scene ATM, and has been for a while. The problem that I see is that there are a lot of dubbers out there and the more fragmented we get the less well represented the scene is. A really well organised club with a large membership base the club Gti could/would have been would have some serious clout - maybe even enough to get obsolete parts manufactured.

Think I have seen an Autogleam product that is suppossed to get rid of traffic film but can't remember what it was now.. :roll:

Yep it were pump alright.

Humn, wonder if it is going to try to hard to be Top Gear again tonight..

Yeah you might as well, maybe someone can shed some more light on the info.

Yup according to the ebay HPI check thingy

You have PM GS, looks like it was the first owner that totalled it and had it rebuilt and then re-registered in '95

Er, just what where you looking for when you stumbled accross these beauties?

Blimey! Problem being that if it is repaired to the approved standard there is nothing illegal about this - although this doesn't look like the approved standard... As it was an ebay car have you done the cheap HPI search they offer on there? Might be worth a look for under a fiver to see if it was a 'proper' accident repair or not.

Sure it will. As it a 16v head it will want to rev, only restriction is the charger rpm compared to the engine rpm. After I have slotted my current one in I intend to build a 16v G60 capable of 9250rpm on a standard pulley :twisted: Veedubed if you look at the RPm website link I posted on the previous page they do a really tidy looking sensor mod so you can get both G60 water temp sensors on the side of the head. Is that S2 part you mentioned labelled up as a water collector on ETKA?

Yes a KR will go out to 2.0 but I would not be keen on doing that as it will make the piston walls a bit too thing for my liking when using FI. Chuck a post on the 16v G60 yahoo forum as the yanks run a lot more 2.0 G60's than we do over here; although bear in mind their comp ratios are usually a bit rubbish compared to ours. The other issue is that the S2 pistons only come in one size, they do not make any in any of the standard overbore sizes. Intakes. I don't have any figures available but it is well know that you need short runners to get more response out of a FI set-up. The existing 16v one narrows from one end of the other to increase air velocity, this is pointless on a FI set-up as the air is 'pushed' rather than 'pulled' In fact all this will do is increase your back pressure and as such reduce your available boost. A shorter manifold will also suffer from less heat soak from the engine, especially as the 16v manifold wraps around the top of the engine! Alt brackets, I can get some dimensions off mine as the engine is still sat on the stand ATM; you will need a VR alt though and a I believe it is a pulley from a polo that will fit - I still need to source one but will give you a part number when I do. Don't go for a solid belt tensioner - it just overstresses the belt and then it will snap, if you are going to go with the alt on the aircon location then just let it pivot on one set of lugs and put the spring from the MK.III in to tension it. You will have to wait and see if you need to go up a pulley size but the S2 manifold will help reduce belt slip by the drop in back pressure. Probably want to find a fuel pump for a 16v as they whack out above 10bar so you will never get any fuel starvation issues. A standard G60 pump is running at max chat on cars like Henny's and there is no reason you won't put out more power than the heavily modded G60's with this setup, if done right. As for not taking it above 7k where is the fun in that? :wink: The advantage the 16v set-up has is that aside from the crossflow as oppossed to counterflow arrangment is that is can rev due to the lighter valve gear and smaller valves - to get the best out of this you want to make it rev.

Not sure how I missed this thread for so long. Righty, not sure about the 2.0l blocks to be frank, not doing one right now so not looked into it. As for pistons/rods etc. I have Audi S2 pistons and rods in a KR block using a KR/PG crank (its the same thing) and that will give me around 8.5:1 CR. The original limited engine as made by VWM had a comp ratio of around 8.8:1. But JE do seem to be the best people to make up new pistons and I would go for forged ones. I would bin the standard manifold and fit an RS2 style one. The reason being is that forced induction (FI) requires a completely different type of manifold to normally aspirated (NA) - just look at the forced VR thread and Kev's comments on the schimel for more on that. Driveshafts, standard 16v driveshafts are not the same as G60 ones, fit some G60 ones. Choice of bottom end, jury is out on this one. KR block has much better breathing and that is a must for this conversion or you will find a lot of oil being thrown around at high boost. PG block has the extra cooling by the No.1 cylinder. Exhaust manifold/downpipe, for the best flow it has to be tubular but try to loose the existing 16v downpipe as it has a huge dent and a big restriction to increase back pressure in the flexi coupling - again fine for NA cars but not useful for FI. Brakes, er big ones... Electrics. You need to decide if you are going to stick with digifant managment or switch to an after market system. Digi is more than capable of achieving the task but you will need a loom, fuel rail electrics, uprated injectors (Although a limited I have seen ran standard green tops) ECU, custom map, complete set of digi senders etc. Also you have to be aware that your existing clocks wont work without modification. To get the MFA to read correctly you will need a set of G60 clocks but they only have a red line to 7k (Valvers are around 7440) and unless you get a really early set of clocks you can't mix and match parts. (VW don't have any either - I tried) Odd custom bits and pieces - brackets for alt mountings, pulleys, a complete G60 bracket etc etc. The water outlet flange on the cylinder head for the 16v means you can't mount the G60 style one with the twin water temp sensors - these need to be relocated to the inlet flange on the side of the head next to the dizzy. Intercooling. Standard G60 ones are pap on a standard G60 so get a bigger one, plenty of options here, custom, rallye, fit a rieger bumper and shove an S2 one in. Bottom end of the engine, get everything balanced dynamically and make sure the crank is done with the clutch on it - a VR one will do as you will probably need an uprated clutch too. Fit the bearing shells from a diesel Mk.III Goof - these are stronger. Get a windage tray for your sump - required or it is going to get messy. Oil cooling. Invest in a 22 row cooler with a thermostat and shove it where the intercooler would live in a normal G60. Need a G60 radiator, this means you will need a mix of water cooling hoses to suit both the 16v aspect and the G60 aspect. Need a G60 PAS pump as the unions are at the wrong angle to clear the charger bracket on a G60. Defo fit the head using an ARP kit, same with the bottom end bits, much stronger and more reliable in the long run. Just get a copper head gasket and fit it (make sure to use some spray copper gasket material to aid sealing) I would also get the intermediate shaft balanced and have them thin it out a bit and loose the cam lobe (Cam lobe is for a fuel pump for a Mk.I Goof I think) Get the pistons and conrods balanced and try to get the weight difference between them down to a minimum. (Just good practice anyway - less vibration makes a more efficient engine) Your existing fuel pump is more than up to the task so there is no need to change it. Yet another problem is the ribbed belt crankshaft pulley, you will need a custom one made for the task because there is a difference in the widths of the 16v crankshaft pully versus the G60 one. The alt probably wont clear the brake servo on RHD cars so it can be mounted under the charger in the same place the aircon pump would normally sit - this will reduce your belt run length which is only a good thing. I have lost the standard G60 belt tensioner and replaced it with a spring - same system as the MK.III goof uses for tensioning the belt and JMR (He ran a 16v G60 for a few years after having built it) used the same set-up with no problems on his car. Belt slip, I believe this wont be an issue on a standard pulley but you may want to look into a toothed belt kit if you intend to run a smaller pulley. Have a look on the 16vg60 yahoo usergroup for more info and this website in Germany will let you pick and choose some of the parts required that I have listed above: http://www.rp-motorsport.de/en/g-lader/16v-g60-powerkit.htm Oh and if you do it yourself your insurance is bound to ask for an engineers/MOT tester report as well... It's not a bolt on job, although it can be a lot less involved than the monster list above I would feel more comfortable with the reliabilty of the set-up done like that. Here is a pic of JMR's old car, even with the S2 manifold it looks very OE. (I would also add that it would have been easier to buy it at £7000 and save myself a lot of work..)

New tyres please! Nice Andy, how long before you get behind the wheel of a Veryon?

The problem you will have Coxy is that the wear on your balls (Oh er) will mean that the will only want to go in a certain way. Bit of a pain in the ass but in the long run it would be easy to take the drive shaft back of the car, clean up the joint and polish your balls along with the coupling. This way it should go back together a it easier.

Just to clarify slightly on what Andi said, you will need insurance prior to taking it for a pre-booked MOT. You are also allowed to drive the car to a location to get any work required for an MOT but again you must be insured.

Dunno on fitment, if the stud pattern is correct then they will go on ok but you will need to make sure you torque tighten the wheel bolts up to the correct amount and I would also get all 5 bolts in at then tighten opposites about a turn each to make sure the wheel centres correctly. Right job on! (At work that is)

Heh, you can see the 'arse of Hartley' in the door..

No, and what would I do with your five stud gayness anyway? Want me to pick them up for you?

Feckers will do anything to stop you claiming on insurance. Although didn't have any problems with mine when I had it done, although I might not have mentioned that it wasn't a stone chip that caused to have a 2 foot wide crack in it but my shoulder.... Bloody handbrake covers :oops:

You could see if you could find a thin spacer with the bigger centre bore. You not getting rid of those speedlines are you? :shock:

Sounds like a question for Jay or Phat to me.

Before the mods VR6 dive in.. Use the search

Supercharged. Not had any problems with heat - they are only the same rating as the original bulbs 55W jobbers. They are however, 15 years on bulb tech as oppossed to the halogen ones I took out.

Don't do it, I am guessing your Golf is advertised in autotrader? Might want to give their local trading standards office a ring down in London too to see if they are usually a problem. Watch out for loads of dodgy phone calls offering you selling packs - don't take them as it will have their terms and conditions on them somewhere and then they get away with robbing you blind for no service.

Slightly different route but I have just fitted a set of xenon dip/main bulbs and some xenon main beam bulbs too. Tested the main/dip beam ones last night on the way home and it was much improved, just got see how well the uprated main beam inner bulbs (H3 type) do tonight. Got them from Halfrauds - the main/dip bulbs are the super brilliance range of xenons and they are on buy one get one free ATM, supposed to provide up to 50% extra brightness. Probably not as good as an uprated loom but then my lights have not given up randomly either (so far....)