Yandards

Unless you are using your car for the track I would recommend fitting OE bushes throughout when replacing them.

Still in awe of the sheer effort mansell made at Monico after Senna past him in the pits. He had to be helped onto the podium - I just don't think that todays drivers have that sheer grit and determination. Senna was an outstanding driver, would have been good to see him and Schumacher battle it out in similiar spec cars.

Damn this is a tough one. Nick VR's sounded good before he fitted the cold air feed pipe to his CDA with a full miltek. Kev's (Haywire) charged VR makes a very sweet noise as well. Any of the G60's with a toothed conversion just sound really ominous at idle. Being somewhat bias I also love the sound of my valver at around 5k and up to 7k. John (JMR's) 16vG60 also sound superb throughout the rev range.

Nice Andy, nugget is looking super shinny.

Quite Henny, I can stick Eng Tech MIIE and LCGI something after my name if I want to. My bug would be that my daily job means I need to work on and understand much more complicated systems than you get in a car and the consequences of a cock up are far greater if I get it wrong.

Dont fit the 'threaded bush' with the earlier larger spring discs - you should be fitting the nut.

Also worth considering that with that mileage you should be banking on a complete suspension swap and rebush as well as things like engine mounts if they havent been done recently.

Without wishing to offend any mechanics I am a lot more qualified and experienced than some of mechanics out there, why should I not be allowed to spec and build my own engine? Because some whitehall wan**er decides that I can't? :mad: (Sorry, just sucks a fat one if that is what they are going to do)

Dunno you would never get a consistant castor angle set with those :roll: :oops: :cry: Looking good, love the splits but I am sure with your epic knowledge of rims she will look sweet on the OZ's.

Just stick it together in the picture as shown on the right on ETKA. Make sure you assemble it with the bump stop and boot to stop sh1t getting onto the fescallised portion(shinny bit of the damper) Put the spring cap on and the bearing and then do it up with the nut until it locks off and then torque it up. Shove the rubber top mount over the top of it and poke it back up through the wheel arch, shove the top cap in from inside the engine bay and do the nut up - game over except for the bottom bolts and a 4 wheel alignment! It will all fit so don't worry. (As long as the the spring cap retains the spring you are fine.)

That's standard! (ride height anyway)

Excellent couple of articles. I expect in her defense she could only just see over the steering wheel and was totally oblivous to any traffic around her. Why does it not suprise me about the coppers taking two hours for the guy with the wheelbarrow?

Yeahhhh

Should stop the chicken wire and filler brigade from fitting snow ploughs then it is a good thing. But from my perspective it may mean projects like my current engine build could be impossible or very difficult. That would annoying to have a MOT tester check my work given my day to day job and the fact that those standards have been applied to my project. I suppose ultimately how much it impacts on the wallet in both MOT terms (does it need a 'super' test every year or just once much like a 'Q' plate custom? and if I then have grief getting suitable insurance for it)

Yup should be light and warmer too with a bit of luck Bugger, thats jinxed it :roll:

The original handling of the Corrado was not the point, it has a well deserved reputation as the best handling coupe of its generation. The point was that for some reason unknown to us mere mortals VW decided that it would look like a tractor at the standard ride height - it looks even more stupid when compared to the likes of the late 'rocco and 16v Mk II; these both have wheels that fill the arches nicely due to the ride height.

It's due a rebuild - I'd just get the above checked when it's being done, highly recomend the SNS no lag chips! Depends who serviced the charger and how many years 35k miles was. If you are on a standard pulley then I would see no reason why you can't get 5 years or 50k between servicing a charger; although how enthusiastically you drive the car and if it is still running a standard boost return setup will also have an impact. But smaller pulleys will mean a more frequent service is required. The other problem will be that if it has a certain Ja**a sport sticker on the charger then you will need to book it in for a rebuild as soon as possible. G-werks are very highly recommended by the G60 guys on here for rebuilds. If Daz wants to give a different frequency or mileage for rebuilds then I would follow that. :wink:

Got a 4 wheel alignment adjustment post suspension spring change and top mount swap. Just leaves a clean and polish to do before the RR on Sunday!

If you are changing the tie rods I believe this is possible insitu. If not there is this article about doing it in the wiki: http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/Steering_Rack_Replacement

:roll:

I would suggest you get and have a good look around inside the passenger front suspension area and give a lever/pull on a few bits to see if anything is obviously loose. But I would agree with the 'it's likely to be a top mount' theory

Today on the road between Calne and Melksham, had to wait at the junction whilst a green C went past. No engine spec badge on the back but was a N plate. Nice looking clean car.

The only problem with that line of thinking is that the bolts are the same on the 16v, G60 and VR6. Even the rear wishbone bush is the same regardless of type of engine. I would hazard a guess that the captive nut is the same too. As such I think the difference in figures may be due to the way that the wishbone mounts to the subframe. The plus(VR) suspension setup must require less torque to ensure the subframe is correctly tightened down onto the steel bush in the centre of the rear wishbone bush :roll:

Er the VW running gear manual.. The G60/16v subframes are 130nm tight and the VR ones are only listed as 70nm plus a furthur 90 degrees.

Superb