Yandards

Yeah we really appeciate how stock it is and are going to keep it like that, aside from the Jetex exhaust (apparently the factory items don't last long enough...) Oh and it has an old tax disc and the 'code' stickers for the radio in the window coupled with an original number plate. Humn, got all that sat in the garage and I still have my under bonnet foam..

The pair I fitted as side light bulbs a few years ago put out a lot more light, always found the interior light to be ok but the boot light was poor and the glove box light appears to be a mole with a birthday candle.. Be interested to see how you go with the LEDs.

Shamlessly stolen from Sniff Petrol I see.. ..this piece always made me chuckle linkyage

Plenty these days just through age. As its an early motor then it should be slighlty better protected in terms of rust prevention but still have a good look at the bottom of the rear arches, fuel filler cap area, front wings, front wing indicator holes, base of the windscreen, underneath, engine bay bulkhead and under both the battery and airbox for signs of rust. The 1.8T conversion will alos need some serious inspection as to how it was done, what engine managment it runs etc. The car should feel tight and responsive when driving, any sloopyness in the steering will come down to worn bushes and possible a worn steering column universal joint - wider tyres and excessive lowering will cause the suspension and steering systems to wear out much faster. Sunroof both tilts and slides, spoiler should deploy at around 47mph and go back down around 5 mph - it should also work on the override button on the lower dash area under the light switch. Beware that some parts are hard to get hold of now so worn seat bolsters, cracked fogs and indicators should all be bargining points as you can't source new replacements.

Simple physics, the cold air is sucked directly from outside, the hot air has to pass over the matrix. You might also find the foam on your heater selection flaps is past its best furthur degrading performance.

Because Microsoft pay to develop the Forza series just the same as Sony pay to develop the Gran Turismo series..

More chance of being presented with a £100 million cheque just for being yourself by Winston Churchill!

Corrado ones are specific to Corrado, not generic and also have a clip on 'Corrado' script badge. Not any use to you but I have a full set that I need to stick back on the valver.

Oil and water temps sound ok, MPG seriously low but I would double check that using the old fill it up at the pump, note the quantity filled followed by a reset of the trip meter and run it down and then refill again. Used to get around 38 MPG on my daily commute on the valver when it was just a valver, managed over 400 miles from a tank on fill up! As for the heater issue, it could still be the bypass valve worth getting some copper tube and bypassing the bypass valve to check - a blocked matrix will likely need to be replaced as when it does work again it will be a right mess.

Indeedy, hence my 2.9 comment. Man flu - meh you need some Manthrax instead ;)

No it will all fit without swapping anything else out. The only difference between early and late wings is that late wings are slightly more flared (read deep) at the arch - it was part of the change to accomdate wide track suspension used on the VR. NickVR6s old car used to have a mismatched set of wings but it was very difficult to spot. As for bonnets, headlights, bumpers, indicators etc that are all interchangeable between early and late as some of them left the factory with like that.

Hallo and welcome, The VR should be 2.9 version not the 2.8 as fitted to the Goofs.

Yes but it is well worth sourcing the early bits as they are still available with some digging.

Just had time to read this properly. Without checking the parts catalogue I think there is a chance whoever fitted the flywheel may have fitted the wrong one - hence the No 1 TDC mark being in the wrong place. You are correct that the engine to head is not an interference fit and as you have only been cranking it on the start there should be no valve damage. I would do the following, set No 1 TDC by using a drop stick method down the plug bore, then adjust the cam pulley to the No 1 TDC position and refit the belt - hopefully you will now have compression, it won't be spot on but should be enough to get some compression. Genuine replacement VW flywheels come with only the 0 deg mark, you need to add the 6 deg mark by hand according to the workshop manual. Finally the other problem you may is that the camshaft pulley woodruff key has sheared and the camshaft pulley is just rotating on the shaft, take the rocker cover off and rotate the cam pulley by hand and see if the cam works as expected. It is well worth checking that the woodruff key on the camshaft is in the correct spot by removing the bolt too.

Something is seriously wrong if No 1 is not at TDC with the flywheel at 0 deg mark! Have you got another mark on the flywheel to indicate 6 deg BTDC?

Just be aware that very early models have a different plug connection than later ones for the spoiler control module. As for raising and lowering speeds, the Corrado is designed for the spoiler to raise at 72mph IIRC. This obviously caused some issues for the UK model as the legal limit is a bit less than that! So early models came with a raised speed of 47mph instead. This speed was changed with the introduction of the VR to give a sportier feel to 58mph.

Jesus that is close! Although Hurrican Bawbag mk 2 is in full effect up here again!

I really don't understand why people feel they can do this sort of thing and not leave any details, guessing its a chelsea tractor looking at the impact point and height. New wing, bumper, slam panel along with an obsolete indicator needed there - sorry to say its going to be a bloody fight with the insurance company :(

Hallo, There is a guide complete with pics and explanations for setting up the timing on a G60 here. Personally I would always use the 0 deg mark on the flywheel to get no 1 TDC as it is much more acurate and its also impossible to fit the flywheel in the incorrect orientation. There should be 2 marks on the flywheel if it has not been replaced, a 0 deg mark complete with '0' and a mark at 6 degrees BTDC - the 6 deg mark will not be there if the flywheel has been replaced. The problem with using the crank pulleys as a reference is that they are very difficult to align as the inner wing provents correct viewing, so once again the guide in the link has some steps to get around this - frankly the intermediate pulley is just a rough guide to get the car to start, timing has to be set at 2-2.5k RPM.

Propably the switch contacts on 1 are not making a good connection either that or you fan is that knackered it won't rotate on 1.

Muppets!

Yep you do, had this very conversation a good few times over the years and even got to the point where a good friend swore he would never pay VAG prices for bushes because how could the Febi ones be worse, that changed 18 months later when the Febi items were shot and he is a very vocal advocate of genuine VW items now. Lets face it, the bushes do 100k+ and 15-20 years for the genuine article you can't say that's not good in terms of wear. As for polybushes, I would never fit them unless I was building a track car that got torn down at the end of every season and inspected, as for why not on a road car then there is an article on the VW Vortex (used to have a link but its gone) where a guy fitted polybushes and they dropped out after wearing the metal in the wishbone out instead of the bush. Bushes are designed to flex, poly compound is too stiff so the wear and loads are transfered to other places instead.

There is supposed to be a bit of foam that sits on top of that bit you pushed back in to ensure the air being drawn in by the fan is actually coming from outside the car and not recirculated air.

Best bet would be VW Vortex in the USA, cheap enough and much easier to get hold of.

Because the petrol powered VR was going to be a diesel engine..