Yandards

Nice shed!

Random thread so locked...

Woah there. A valver does run hotter than the same engine when compared to a MK 2 Goof but you should not be seeing oil temps above 106 degrees or so in either oil or water! Joby if yours is seeing 129 degrees of oil temp in traffic then you either need a new radiator, fan or water pump as one or all of those is just not working at all. Good quality oil stops working properly around the 120 deg C mark and upwards and aside from G60s you should never see oil temps above that in any other Corrado. As both your oil and water temperatures seem to agree with one another then I would suspect it is not a sensor fault so look at the general state of your radiator for blocked/damaged fins but I would lean more towards a busted water pump - it may be spinning ok on the pulley put the impellor inside might not been turning anymore.

Straight into the heavy work then! The valve spring retainers can be removed by using a long reach valve spring tool, assuming you are still based in the UK in an airbase in Suffolk ;) then your local branch of Halfords will have one on the shelf.

I was thinking that the clean ISV and new MAF would be more efficient than the old original items and the ECU might still be using the older adapted values for idle control? If that is the case it should sort itself out after some driving but you can speed the process up by doing an ECU reset by removing the battery lead and following the guide here

Looks like the auto box is knackered mind, I seem to recall the parts for it are stupid money even for just a sensor. Even so if you had the skills to retro-fit a manual box and source a replacement bolster it looks like a good solid standard car.

Early wings, early bonnet, tailgate, roof panel suitable for use with a sunroof and complete doors. The doors would have to have all the correct mounting points for the electric window fittings and the mounting point for the side impact bars etc and the same applies to the roof and tailgate panel. As for stuff like door mirros etc I can't see the point, if you are going to hassle of getting carbon parts made up they might as well save some serious weight, otherwise just use carbon wrap etc. The existing spoiler does not weigh much so why bother replacing it for a carbon one that will weigh about the same? I can see the logic in the replacement late centre console though..

Yep no issue, no ducting there are the moment so something is better than nothing!

Corrosion has to be treated properly, even my minty fresh 16vg60 is showing some nasty spots in some places and the only way to get rid of it is to grind it all out, treat it with some rust killing product, paint it with a zinc based primer (I use Zinga as it actually bonds to the steel) and then topcoat. Cars do go rusty, although Corrados are a lot more durable than other vehicles of the era, mk 3 Astra, Probe, Calibra etc.

Done, pm on the way ref payment details.

I am after item 18 in the picture please. [ATTACH=CONFIG]48074[/ATTACH]

Sounds like Carl, aka Bigpantsbaby; more likely it was Mrs Bigpants though.

Quality is fine, at least the Febi stuff fits properly. I will say that mileage is less relevant as rubber will harden with age - ooh er! The Febi ones might do 3-5 years without starting to degrade whereas the genuine VAG items will do closer to 100k or 15 years. It's the same with the rest of the rubber suspension bits, fits genuine where possible and do the whole lot at once. That way you 'reset' the suspension system and ensure all components will wear evenly - you will then get 10+ years of trouble free motoring with the occasion trip to the wheel alignment folks.

But they don't work.. The rear beam bush is designed to flex to provide passive rear wheel steering, that's why they are the shape they are and why it's vital they and the rear beam are fitted correctly (you need to load the rear beam laterally). The powerflex item does not flex so does not provide that function. As for which is which, the Febi items are pretty good but in my peronal experience they are not quite as long lasting. Given the amount of hassle in changing a set of rear beam bushes I would pay the extra for the VAG item.

Have you got the drivers side radiator ducting plastic? And thinking about it, the radiator cover panel that sits on the back of the slam panel? And the little black plastic clip that the back of the fusebox cover trim slides into (the one attached to a metal bracket)?

Problem with that table is that by the time you hit the redline the boost pressure reading is being dumped back to return to prevent shock loading on the charger when it hits the rev limiter. If the car is pulling ok through the rev range then it is more than likely a knackered pipe onto the MFA, worth checking out the MPG indicator to see if that is way out as that will givr you an idea. That table relies on a completely standard car set-up, the addition of an RSR outlet changes those figures as it removes the restrictions in the boost system creating more CFM (flow) but less pressure. My nugget makes well below those figures but that is down to the boost pipework and a chargecooler being fitted.

Looking good Kipster.

I think the 'rado does feel modern compared to cars of the same era but they really don't feel special when you are using one as a daily. Been considering moving the nugget on recently (although I have not used it) and replacing it with something I don't give a monkeys about just so I do appreciate the 'rado properly. Only snag being what to replace it with and the complete lack of value in Corrados right now.

Just hope nothing needs replacing on either the BMW or the Audi, if you think Corrado parts are a rip off wait until you get an Audi bill..

Jesus christ, you been drinking again?

BBM do some cracking work, its all CNC machined and the airflow has been CAD modelled for optimised flow. Shame they are in the USA and the bloody import duty will be huge.

Chimps, execution is the only way forward. If we had natural selection on the go then idiots like that would have died long before they became a problem.

You should use the thermostat sandwich plate when fitting an oil cooler to prevent over cooling. It also helps get the engine up to temperature nice and fast which makes a big difference to engine life and overall health.

Right small update. Just over 1000 miles covered during the run down and back from BVF so the engine is well run in now. Got an issue with 5th gear de-selecting when coming off the throttle which made the trip down and back up interesting, have made a lot of adjustments on the cable so the next line of attack will be to swap the shifter tower back to the older style one from the original gearbox to see if that cures if. If not then 5th gear is relatively easy to get to for furthur fault finding. Car was pretty well behaved on the journey, the oil breathing system needs another line feeding into the boost return to stop it firing an oil mist over the inner turret, as I am running a stock 16v block breather and hose I can used the small take off piece for a narrow bore hose which should solve the problem. Fuelling is way out and only really held in place by the lambda, despite that I did open her up a bit more on last leg through the twisties and it pulls really very well indeed. So plan now is to sort the gear shifting issue out, fabricate an undertray, run another oi breather line and then get it mapped correctly.

Nice one Alex, good to have seen it all come back together. Next jobs on the pipeline are?