Yandards

Nice work so far, I think a guy called PAB on Club GTi did something similar with a mk2 Golf (Seat Leon dash IIRC), so as the bulkhead is the same if you run into any real headaches he might be the guy to ask!

Kev, you are not far wrong with that summary! Initially I liked the look of them, I had never owned a VW before a Corrado but had been close to getting a mk 2 GTi (an itch I later scratched). Yes they are not the best in any particular area especially when compared to modern metal but when you put the whole package together they are still a very good car and there is something extra about them that is undefinable. I like my A3, its quick, solid and fun to drive but its not as engaging to drive as a Corrado is, perhaps its because the Corrado was one of the last cars built to a standard the way the engineers wanted it to be rather than a product of crash regulations, focus groups and accountants..

Nice one Jim, hopefully this will satisfy your performance desire a bit more than the Fiat!

Used to get around 325 miles from a 55 litre tank out of my G60 on the 7 mile work run but driving like Miss Daisy I have seen a fuel refill confirmed 45 MPG. As others have mentioned though, its not the car its the distance..

Yep I do have a set complete with rods, I can get some photos if you need them. £75 posted ok?

Nah, stage 4 is just a port of the charger outlet when it comes down to it. The counterflow 8v can only take so much extra flow or pressure from a stage 4 or pulleyed charger before you need to do some serious headwork to make use of the extra boost. In a supercharged system high boost pressure is not necessarily a good thing.

Stuart, If you can manage to get the timing marks to align perfectly then you could leave the timing alone. The reason I suggest that you need to do the timing is that aligning the timing marks is difficult thanks the inner wing getting in the way of your eyeline, if you get the intermediate shaft in roughly the correct place then by setting up the timing you can compensate for the fact that the timing mark on the intermediate shaft might not be in exactly the correct location. As for the HGV crowd, the G60 engine management is very very sensitive to correct timing to produce good power, the reason the blue temperature sensor needs to be unplugged is that you then place the engine into a 'basic' setting mode. As the timing is dynamically set (2000-2500 rpm) this mode prevents the ECU from advancing and retarding the timing during the setup process. The 3 revs information may or may not be relevant (I think it is removed from later ECU code) but it is mentioned on the VW G60 workshop video as part of the process so I have included it the guide. Finally the VW workshop manual instructs you to check (and adjust if required) the timing with a timing light using the process I have previously described after replacing the cambelt; on older distributor equiped engines this is good practice as you never know if the timing was correct before you started.

Great write up Kev, worth noting that you can get new metal clips from VAG for pennies if folks want to use those instead of cable ties.

Does your new car smell of cheese and surrender?

I think I have a set in the roof at home, I can have a look for you tomorrow as I am on shift tonight.

Easy enough to do but you need to unpick a lot of wire retaining tags that need to be refitted to get this to work. The back rest foam is the same as a mk 2 Golf and is still available from VW (IIRC), so as there are a lot more of them out there that is an easier source for that part.

Dave, they will fit but not without putting some holes into the plus wishbones for mounting them. Even the Passat items are only fitted to the non-plus suspension setup. For those struggling to find the part number/s, it is a good number, just pull up a 1995 Golf and have a look at illustration 407-10.

The last message I had was that he wanted it but was going on holiday for a week and would sort it out when he gets back.

Wishbone leading edge protectors are not the same as the brake duct 'ears'. Pic of one in situ along with a brake duct ear and some part numbers and costs here: linkage 2nd to last post is the one with the details. Only issue is they are 4 cylinder car only unless you want to drill some holes in your wishbones..

****e.

Wiper motor cover from the mid nighties Passat tidies the engine bay up very nicely. Retrofitting the later model door lock black plastic covers also tidies those up. Another vote for extra soundproofing in the rear passenger area as a lot of the in car noise comes from there. Black plastic leading edge wishbone protectors, 4 cylinder only and from a mk 3 Golf, massive reduction in the number of stones the end up on top of the wishbone. Big no to polybushing, new rubber ones also transform the car without the harshness of poly.

White one, L plate valver on black wheels in Inverness vue carpark being driven around looking for a space about 19:50 last night.

Dunno but the last 3 letters on the number plate are close enough to 'GIT' for me!

Thread resurection..

Beat me to it even if I did introduce you to it...

Glad you fixed it and it just goes to show when fault finding check the basic stuff first!

The bulbs are the same wattage so no need for any uprated wiring, try those first and see what you think. Side repeaters are available new from the VW dealer and are cheaper than you thing (its a mk2 golf item) about £7.00 a go IIRC.

Get yourself a set of Halfrauds extreme brilliance bulbs (black box, 120% brighter) H4 for main/dipped beam and H3 for main beam only, easy upgrade assuming the headlight assemblies unscrew so you can fit the bulbs. Tidy looking valver though the wheels are from a Golf mk 2 and it looks like the aftermarket clear side repeaters have gone all milky!

Step 1: Find a new mechanic this one is a chimp. Step 2: Fit a new lambda probe. The reason is that when the engine has warmed up the lambda is the main controlling sensor, the only time it is overriden is when the throttle potentiometer is providing the ECU with a wide open throttle input, with no lambda your ECU dumps back to the previous set of adaptive values which will overtime reduce performance - the short term loss is in fuel economy! Lambda probes control injector pulse duration when the ECU is looking at them, this is when the car is being driven at part throttle or idle settings and is refered to as 'closed loop' operation, when you go full throttle the ECU 'knows' it needs a lot more fuel and the lambda information is ignored - this is due to 'narrowband' lambda probes being used on Corrados and at extreme ends of the fuel mixture they cannot differentiate between too rich and too lean.

Very tidy looking car, good to see another one being saved rathered than broken for spares.