Yandards

Which reinforces my point that on those early cars it was a requirement to remove the towing eye cover from the side that there is not a towing eye for improved cooling..

Ah yellow, got to love it :)

G60s are really picky about power delivery when they are not setup just right. Some aftermarket 'off the shelf' chips are also not a good idea on a car that is nudging 20 years old with a engine managment system that was known for being inconsistant when it was launched. Way too many variables to calculate with an off the shelf chip, bottom end wear, boost leaks, fuel injector degredation, charger wear etc etc. Be worth checking for boost leaks if it is down on power though and it might also be prudent to refit the stock pulley and chip to see how if feels - it could also be belt slip from using the smaller pulley.

Poopy :(

Except that is has some ducting to it from the front lower grille, the G60 rad support and N/S/F brake cooling duct are different to accomodate both the brake cooling duct and the intercooler ducting being installed in that position. I agree that the towing eye covers seem to be the item refered to in the bulletin which would explain why that one is not fitted to my nugget. Although the outer edges of the lower radiator grilles are solid plastic, I did dremmel the O/S/F outer edge of my lower grille to get airflow over the charger side of the engine at speed in an attempt to improve cooling. Given the huge oil temperatures which are common on non-aircon specification G60s (much smaller radiators) I would not be suprised if this was introducded in an effort to reduce under bonnet temperatures.

This is a touch expensive too: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corrado-VR6-Grille-Badge-BNIB-Very-Rare-/250895325259?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a6a86d84b Although at least the postage is free!

True but they never are quite the same colour and lacquer after a refurb. They are taking the mickey though, I picked up a set of brand new G60s with centre caps still in the dealer boxes for £100 a wheel 18 months ago and they were obsolete back then as well, not exactly a bargin but £100 a corner for BBS alloys is pretty good money in my book. I also found a brand new spare for £75 (no centre cap) delivered in the last 3 months as I need a full size spare, so this is a rip off really.

Its been parked in the garage unused for 2 months getting dusty... Seriously though it comes off the road for the winter shortly and I need to get a closer ECU map or I am going to make a mess of the cylinder bores with the over fuelling - not a problem on a long run on the motorway as the lambda sorts it out on closed loop with adaption but short running and lots of starts makes a mess of it. I have been chatting with my chip coder to get a closer map prior to a custom session though. Kev, the voltage gauge is built into the head unit (now old Pioneer AVIC-X1 sat nav unit) but it has proven to be pretty acurate in the past - although it has stopped seeing the illumination signal so I need to check the charging volts at the alternator and battery from a cold start up to see if it is making the correct levels. Another job I have just not got around to as the car isn't going anywhere at the moment! I have sourced an undertray from the old B4 Passat TDi estate (which Mrs Yan managed to write off recently) before it was taken away so I want to trial fit that on the 2 post life in the car club prior to the winter layup; it should nicely as the inner wings have the same mounting points, just need to get the leading edge attached cleanly although a sheet of black ABS plastic is easy enough to work with. Long list of jobs to do over the winter like drop the rear beam, front and rear bumper metal work off to the galvanisers, refurb the front calipers and replace some more brake lines and work through the engine shakedown issues mentioned previously.

Deleted the duplicate thread, thx.

Humn, I have enough spares left over to build another 16vg60 block, a roof full of random new old stock bits and a full set of early leather, a box file stacked full of VW receipts so frankly I don't want to know TBH. It's a lot and that's just parts and next to no labour costs at all..

Both bits are obsolete from VW UK so you will have to try an alternative like GSF or see if Classic parts have any in stock yet.

Nah the old colour coded mod labels went with the last forum update.

Humn... :)

Sounds like your timing is 180 degrees out to me. Check your at TDC on no 1 the only way you should on a G60 at the flywheel end, look for the 0 deg mark. Or have a read of my (just)stickied definitive G60 timing thread which goes through the various options of g60 timing and why you need to do it a certain way - it also explains that getting the dizzy pulley bang on is not essential as you need to check the timing dynamically. link is here. Hope that helps and I got a glowing manifold when I had the dizzy 180 degrees out so I am going to go for that - it does drive ok though!

Crapola Bill :( Always loved your car, just the right level of tweaking for my liking.

Look very similar to the original Recaros as fitted when they left the factory with that option and the colours tie in nicely with some of the interior trim options so I would say it is worth while fitting them.

All spacers do is increase the track width although they also increase loading on the suspension as you increase the amount of leverage being applied to the hub etc. Would I fit them? Although I have no experience of using them it is not something I would want to fit to a car. Don't fit polybushes, they are too tight for road use and will cause the metal of the wishbones to wear out, also the rear beam bush is designed to flex as it acts as passive rear wheel steering.

I did have a massive hangover yesterday.. But thank you :)

Have you unplugged the blue temp sensor prior to starting the set-up procedure? You will also need to remove the oil breather pipe that comes off the rocker cover into the boost return line. Timing is 4-8 deg BTDC as 2000-2500 rpm so I aim for 6 deg BTDC at 2250rpm. You then set the CO to 0.8% IIRC and finally adjust the idle to 800rpm + 50rpm at the end. If its still no good then it is likely to be a sticking ISV (G60 specific item so make sure you have a 037 prefix item). Idle switch works the same as the mk 2 item. An irratic idle could also be caused by an air leak or the hose from the throttle body to the ECU (needs to be exactly 1m in length and the correct VAG stuff), but I would go with a sticking ISV as your issue.

Look in the handbook. Its the right hand under dash shelf on the drivers side, pull the large clips (x2) out and then pull the shelf down and forwards.

There is some cross over although 550 miles is good from 70 litres worth of fuel. Is the car on a standard gearbox?

Spotted a dragon green 'L' reg one in Westbury on Saturday night about 20:00, I was in the nugget G60 at the roundabout and waved back.

The mismatch of gauge and sender will not give you a definite underfill - with the tank capacity increase also came a change in tank shape, so the gauges, senders and tanks need to be matched to get an accurate reading. If you fill the tank up it will indicate full on the gauge - it just wont read the rest of tank contents correctly throughout the entire tank. You will probably find that the fuel gauge drops down very quickly and indicates low throughout the range - better that than over-reading I guess! Early pre-facelift cars came with the 12 gallon (55 litres) tank, the larger 15 gallon (70 litre) tank was introduced, as Steve said, when the VR came out. The reason was that VW required a minimum range of 400 miles from any given platform (although if you get 400 miles from any Corrado you have done very well!!). However, the early boot floors are not bigger as Mr 'charged suggests, early cars came with a full size spare wheel so the floor 'hump' is larger than the later cars with the larger fuel tanks as they came equiped with a space saver.

I wouldn't use a G60 base car for a 16vg60 unless you had a complete KR block to fit - the problem with the G60 bottom end and 16v head setup is crankcase breathing, the 16v has an excellent block breather as it is designed to rev 1/3rd faster than a G60. As you have a KR base you will also need to consider getting some G60 driveshafts as one side of the KR setup is not strong enough for FI use, brakes will need an upgrade as the 256mm ones won't cut it with the extra power. 16VG60 - The vast majority of the kits and information on the net is of zero use to us folks who drive RHD cars - the brakes servo prevents the rear alternator mounting solution that is adopted by the rest of the World. Most stuff is bolt on but the headaches are: Using a 16v inlet manifold the TB attachment is on the wrong side - solution is use a 16v scirocco one but you then need an elbow to clear the dizzy or you can use a cut down RS2 item. You will need to mount both the water temp sensor (Blue and black) there is no off the shelf solution from VW parts bin and you will also need a spacer plate to clear the dizzy (again). KR wiring harness is completely wrong so that will need removing to retro fit a G60. Oil feed for the charger, best bet is take that from the back of the cylinder head (where the oil temp sensor lives on a KR). Mounting the knock sensor, no specific point to place it and the core plug style item that is used on the G60 water jacket needs milling down to fit on a KR block. Compression ratio - aim for around 8.8:1, stacked head gaskets are more than an acceptable solution but an audi RS2 piston set and rods gets you about that ratio, crank is the same in the KR as the G60. Belt tensioning - this is biggest pain in this conversion by far the 16v camshaft pulley is wider than the 8v(G60 item) so needs a custom pulley (many companies sell these), you then need to get the offset correct for the alternator (a polo pulley gives the correct spacing), if the alt is mounted in the aircon compressor location then the water pump needs either another idler pulley to get good belt contact or you can just do what VW did and use PAS V belt to drive the water pump as well - this will need spacing to get that to work though. Finally you need to tension the whole thing, the stock G60 swing arm and pulley sits very tight against the camcover (again its wider due to 16v cambelt being wider) but it does just fit - don't use a solid link or toothed belt drive as this fecks the chargers through shock loading. Simples :) If I were to do it all again then I would use an ABF as a base engine (2.016v) as it has all the extra sensors on it to make use of either mega squirt etc very plug and play, combine that with a bit more displacment and you get a setup that will realise the best of the hardware. I still need to get mine mapped as it feels flatter than my G60 at the moment (which could be gearbox related) but what I do like about it is that it still feels like a valver to drive, not much below 3.5k but above that it really starts to hussle.

Door aperture seals always seem to split at the bottom centre area so new ones of these would be mega handy.